[Alienware 17R4 / 15R3] - Disassembly + Repaste Guide + Results

Well this is strange. After running the diagnostics test it says the ac adapter is good. It detects it as a 220 watt. But the thing that makes me think it's more than a windows issue is that the bios sees that adapter and another one of as, "unknown". I'm pretty much stumped and it looks like I'll be taking it apart again and/or using the warranty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Try checking cables at both ends, one at the PC and another at the adapter, sometimes it comes loose and securing it properly fixes it. Try uninstalling Alienware OSD application and see if fixes the issue.

 

I just thought i would add that i did the full repaste and pc mod thingy and i am now seeing temps that do not go over 70 degrees C, when i used to get well over 80.

Very happy.#

Only tip is dont get the liquid metal all over the place as it is hard to control when it squirts out, no matter how carefull you are.

 

Hey folks so after a few weeks of mucking around and taking my time I've finally completed all the work on my new 7820HK 17 R4. I'm very happy with it now and in a really good place with it so I wanted to show some of the results of what's possible after the following work:

• A rebalance of CPU / GPU
• Replacement of thermal pads with 6w/mK Arctic
• Custom made PCH heatsink mod with Kyronaut
• Custom made SSD heatsink mod with Kyronaut
• Tuned 4.3GHz profile through BIOS and TS (daily driver)
• Tuned undervolt of a GPU overclock (daily driver)

100% I am a completely satisfied customer and am happy with my choice and faith in Dell / Alienware. Shout outs for help go to @DeeX (REALLY helped me a lot in everyway, thanks man you're awesome!), @iunlock (similar to Deex, a massive help, tips and advice, cheers mate!), @Mobius 1 (LOADS of help with benchmarking advice), @alexnvidia (Real nice guy, helped with GPU undervolt and repad advice) , @D2ultima (discord). Thanks for all your excellent advice and help!

Room temp for all tests: 23C
Stock OCCT @ 4GHz 15mins:

Fairly typical of a 7820HK

Stock BF1 CPU @ 4GHz, GPU stock 30mins:


Again fairly typical of a 7820HK and not too bad core differential out of the box but it is there. It's a little bit toasty as well

After all the work mentioned above...

OCCT for 2hours at 4.3GHz:

A solid 11C drop whilst running at a higher clock speed. for some reason further undervolts below approximately -40/45mV dont seem to apply themselves for me with this chip so it could probably run even cooler, oh well... 74C is still nice. core differential is also pretty much fixed now

And for game test for BF1 CPU @ 4.3GHz with GPU undervolt and overclocked +125/300:

Lovely reductions across the board, special note to PCH, SSD and GPU temp reductions.

PCH HANDY TIP: I noticed a big difference in PCH temps reduction when undervolting the GPU. GPU temp dropped 3-4C but the PCH dropped 6-7C. PCH has also benefited from:

• Lower in general temps in chassis due to LM
• PCH Heatsink mod with Kyronaut (20x20x4mm)
• GPU Undervolt
• A better SSD (below the PCH) which is also from Toshiba but is an XG5 instead of an XG4 which runs A LOT cooler (20-25C less at around 67C), almost as low as a samsung and reads at 3GB/s!
• A custom array of heatsinks across all chips using Kyronaut.

So if you're suffering from high PCH temps, try all these changes first if possible.

Latest Firestrike score (19066/GPU 24216):
3D Mark Firestrike

Could definitely get a few hundred points higher but I cant be bothered, just wanted to ensure I could reach 19k to be honest

Nice little custom laser etched plate from @Rairch , I highly recommend it!





@iunlock , @DeeX , @Mobius 1 , @alexnvidia , @Rairch

 

Okay here is what is going on. I took some pictures. Hopefully someone can look at this and know how to fix it. I'll probably call dell fist thing in the morning if we can't get this.
Things I have tried:
1. Flashing bios
2. Plug into different outlet
3. Plug into different charger
3. Tinker with DC input to the computer.
5. Power cycle.

The only way I am getting the processor to return to normal speeds is to use Throttle Stop. Which works, but I can't over clock or charge with that so it's really only a temporary solution.
I appreciate the help.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yes do not underestimate how little force you must use to squeeze LM out. I had read beforehand to be very careful so I tried as to push it out as slow as possible but it gave me a bit of trouble so I put a little more force and BAM. Thank goodness I had the tape there since a bit of it plopped out. Maybe try placing a bit on the heatsink instead to get the pusher moving before applying to the CPU/GPU.

 

Look at DC IN, I think its not properly inserted. Also, wipe the gold contacts of RAM and SSD with a clean cloth or microfiber to see if it fixes the issue.

 

Proper good job mate!

 

Double post. delete

 

Hey guys, I did the PCH mod on my 15r3 and had to sand the heatsink height down to around 1.5~2mm. It's flush with the plastic cover, however it's still in contact and slightly under its pressure. Is it safe? I'm just afraid the plastic could be deformed, melt or something by the high temps. It looks normal after playing all day but I'm still a little worried.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

 

A pictured would be helpful!

 

It's really hard to take a picture of it as there's not a big enough gap from where it's visible... It's flush so it's not noticeable and I really have to squint to tell but I know it's in contact with the plastic. Here's how it ended up inside:

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

 

Am I seeing glue you spilled on that tape like stuff? You could have used Kapton tape or 3m super 33 which can withstand extreme temps.
Keep a watch on the temps on PCH and on your warranty as well, when the tech comes for a inspection, remove the PCH mod just to be safe and clean the surface too.

 

Thanks, yes I'm aware of all that. The glue didn't spill on anything but the tape and hs so I'm not worried. Temps look good.

All I'd like to know is if the plastic above could be hurt by the temps if there's not a gap between the heatsink and itself, to see if I need to sand it a little more and put it back on

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

 

Do you mean the palm rest and the entire body of AW?

 

How did you undervolt your GPU?

 

No, I mean the small contact of the fins with the plastic shell below

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

 

Several people have done PCH mods where the plastic puts pressure on the heatsink and helps keep it in place and none of them have reported problems so I would assume it's alright barring conflicting reports.

 

Thanks, that's exactly what I wanted to hear

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

 

MSI Afterburner using the voltage curve (Ctrl+F).

 

It's fine, worst case it will singe / deform the plastic a little

 

Question.
My laptop allows me to set Turbo Boost Short Power Max to Unlimited and Turbo Boost Power Max to 50W... is this safe to run 24/7? -XTU
Doing so allows me to not run into power limit throttling through Aida64 Stress Test.

I also raised my current limit from 85A to 90A. Safe as well?
Thanks!

 

Only too high voltage and high temp can make damage on components, not increased or maxed power limits!!

 

How come they are maxed at stock?
Is it due to heat?

 

For what reason would I not want to increase it?

 

As I said in previous post, Increased power limits are not dangerous, They are like the name, just a limits. Increased power limits allow your processor to run at higher speed if you have an unlocked CPU and increase the clocks. Higher clock speed will of course increase max temp. And if you have control of the max temperatures, The Increased limits have nothing to say for the final results.

 

Power Limits are Meant to be Broken!!

Smoke'em If You Got'em!!

 

Can you tell me what was the plastic part stuck to PCH? Pictures would be helpful 'cause I can't remember seeing one on the Aluminium heatsink.

 

hey I only meant the inner framework of the laptop itself is plastic (nothing to do with the PCH) I.e. just that if the PCH is touching it, it's no issue it will just deform the plastic structure a little over time

 

Thanks. I was confused about the "plastic" thing there, I thought it was a composite material.

 

Hi iunlock. How much do you charge for your repaste service? I have an XPS 15, 9560. Please add me on discord, TheBull#8203

 

Okay to give an update. The Dell/Alienware tech support was A+. I called on Sunday, spoke with a guy in Texas- no waiting on hold at all, they had a guy come to where I work and fix it today (Tuesday). He even put the new motherboard in with the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. He has the computer running with the mobo replacement in about 45 mins.
Great job.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

https://imgur.com/a/YovAk

What is this thing? I think it might go somewhere on the plastic frame but unsure.

 

Hi guys

Do you leave the .33 tape around the gpu and cpu when replacing the heatsink, if so why?

do i need to leave it around the pch also?

ty

 

im using liquid metal

 

It's on a case-by-case basis depending on want done and how much work your system requires (since some need a lot more effort put into them than others).

 

ok, so my r3 15 had a repaste with LM on cpu/gpu. the pch had some grizzly kryonaut and a copper shim.

he left the tape around the LM dies and made sure the heatsink contacts the dies all over.

my question is when i travel, which is every two weeks by car plane and train 6 hours should i leave the laptop on/under my seat level or can it be stored in the locker overhead sideways?

will the LM seep out slowly?

Im going torepaste every 8 weeks as iv seen tear downs after 12 weeks and the LM has dried up!

ty in advance

 

Not If the job is properly done and heatsink is in good condition... I have still +3 years old Liquid metal in my AW17. I opened up my Clevo and replaced 6700K with 7700K. LM was still very good. This 1.5 Years after I put it on. Just do the cleaning inside as usual. No need for re-paste.

 

Haha like Papusan said LM isn't going to dry up any time soon. I'm pretty damn surprised you've actually seen people with dried up LM. Papusan I believe has left some out in the open and it was good for months.

 

ok, so originally on occt with .125mhz uv i was getting 97 deg cpu (with laptop 1 inch suspended).

after repaste, same undervolt same suspension cpu is 74 deg.

win

 

Suspension or elevated by certain degrees? Do a repad too.

 

edge of book under front and back.

pads were ok good heatsink contact.

 

Have you checked the book doesn't block the vents underneath the PC. If you got a big tape like this below, placing it on center of the PC will give good airflow. Try to get a stand or a cooler in the future.

 

of course its not blocking the vents lmao

laptop coolers dont work and why buy a stand when i can use stuff around the house i have already!

xD

 

From siliconlottery.com... And yeah, my Liquid metal testing continues.

 

so iv been playing bf1 on an external 1440p 60hz monitor @ ultra, no o/c, .125mhz uv on cpu, has not dropped a frame all arvo and cpu temp max was 71 xD

 

That's good to hear.

 

Im a noob on this site and tbh iv never rwpasted but iv been pulling laptops apart for a few yrs, oh and im a medical engineer so that helps prob

 

Wait a minute.

You post this and then you flame me for breaking the power limit barriers on my GT73VR, which is 100% safe?

Something does not compute here.
But hey everyone has been getting on my case recently. The chinese students being "uncomfortable with my presence" at the college, people telling me to 'get a job' when i'm a professional chess player, people hating me when i lose at games and cussing me out....whatever I expect this sort of treatment from everyone now.