[Alienware 17R4 / 15R3] - Disassembly + Repaste Guide + Results

didnt know that, thought it was just for the oc, oh well i dont mind the fan noise anyway so leaving them on is fine for me.

my temps arent the best (looking at you @iunlock) but for my use they are more than OK. wont mess around any more with them.

 

@iunlock 's temps are great because he uses a stand, LM, Fujipoly pads and strict air conditioned clean room ~20-22C.
My environment is different no AC and ambient temps are really high around ~30-42C.

 

i do use fujipolys too, LM and a stand. i would really like to know if his temps suck too when laptop is laying flat instead of using a stand. ambient temps are always 20-22 too. but im nowhere near confident about the whole heatsink thing (i got one of the “bad” ones) and how good of a contact it makes with the dies, im not an expert and repasting was a really daunting task for me

 

If vents are blocks its natural the temps will be worse. But with LM idle temps will be very high and max load temps will be quite low.
Regarding heatsink only experience will tell you! Try AIDA64 Stress test with CPU,FPU and GPU.

 

i did the test a couple days ago, after 1h of gpu+fpu+cpu i get max 84C cpu, max 75C gpu

 

At stock fans or 100% fans?

 

100%

 

Seems quite high temps, have you considered using softer pads instead of fujipoly? Arctics or gelids are much more forgiving with this heat sink..

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quite high for LM, yes. although it doesnt come close to throttling and no real-life use case scenarios would push my system any more so i dont plan on redoing it since temps are fine. could they be better? probably.

 

That's bad if your cpu is at stock clocks and not OC'ed.

 

i know, thought it would be better but still, never managed to hit 90C or more for the CPU and never hit any throttling so... i dont want to risk anything by opening up everything again. i might one day if im bored or find the time to but i doubt ill be able to beat that

 

Fair enough, just keep an eye on temps over time, maybe some save some snips of hwinfo every month or so. You may find because the heatsink doesn't have perfect contact with the die the LM will start to dry out and oxidise which will be apparent with increasing temps. My advice is if you notice this start to happen it's best to deal with as early as possible or the LM will be very difficult to remove and you may need to use very high grit sand paper to get it off the die. Fingers crossed this won't happen though!!

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duly noted.

for the more knowledgeable people here, would i be better off to redo it all now anyway just to be sure or should i be okay?

 

The fact that your using 100% fan speeds all the time may be masking some issues, have you done many benchmarks with stock fans?

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Depends if you want the laptop to last longer and if you have time and patience go ahead.

 

not really, i can try right now though, ill keep ya posted

aida64 running right now, cpu+fpu+gpu with fan and cpu performance modes disabled in bios, ill check in 20 minutes

 

ugh. guess ill have to redo it all over again?

 

Well it's still quite high, was that with the rear raised? Any undervolting? The good part is they are all perfectly even so you have a good balance on the heat sink. I would raise rear, undervolt CPU + GPU then monitor over time and see how it goes with gaming etc. If it starts to get worse with stock fans you will probably be looking at a repaste, I would suggest with softer pads to allow the heatsink to have closer contact with the die.

But I'm no expert so others might have better advice for you

 

-0.130undervolt
laptop raised

ill wait a couple weeks and if it gets any worse ill do it again i guess with softer pads

 

Gelid pads

 

i found “arctic” pads on amazon while looking for them, are they the same?

 

Either are good, people just have different preferences.

 

#1 Gelid #2 arctic. Gelid will form a better fit with heat overtime and can give you perfect core differentials over time. If all prerequisites are met of course.

 

Honestly... The difference between having high temps and low temps won't be determined by whether you use gelid or arctic.

 

It does if the heatsink fits better. I had by far the bezt result with Gelid pads.

 

When I repasted last time I used 0.1mm thermal tape instead of the 0.5mm recommended pad (shown in photo below from original guide) because I kept noticing that side of the heat sink was too high. If the thermal tape I used was actually too thin, would this cause my system to idol high (50degC and fans at almost 3000rpm)? Alternatively, could I use K7 pro here instead? Cheers.

 

No undervolt
Laptop flat on a table
No OC
CPU & Fan performance modes off

Sooo my temps have gotten worse. If the laptop is flat on a hard surface the GPU easily reaches 90C and throttles and CPU reaches mid 90s, without throttling but not really good still. Idle temps are crazy bad, like high 50s - 60 for both CPU and GPU. Thing is, core differential is really, really good though (0 to 2C difference between cores, max).

What could be the issue? Is it possible that the heatsink just barely makes any contact at all with the dies?

I have Conductonaut and Arctic pads (1.5, 1 and 0.5mm) and I'm willing to try again tomorrow night when kids are asleep. If anyone can advise on the best way to check for gaps (HS and CPU/GPU and between HS and Pads on VRMs and chokes), I'd appreciate.

 

Do you have any regular paste? If so, you can clean all the LM off and apply the paste then screw the heat sink down, leave it for 10 mins and then take it off again. This gives you a rough idea of the kind of contact your making. But you might find even just using softer pads allows heat sink to make better contact anyway.

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Check if your bottom panel is slichtly bowing outwarda. The feet on the laptop are rather low and a skight bow already chokes up the intake. Check what happens if you lift the back.

 

I don't but would using something like Ihle's paste work just for testing contact?

Triple checked and not bowing outwards at all, completely flat.

 

Ok, well then you can rule that out. Thats something i come across from time to time. Seems. To happen more often on the 15inch version though.

 

Not too sure what that paste is sorry! Ideally you would use pressure paper but that can be hard to get hold of/expensive so some people just use a cheap thermal paste instead.

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I have a heat issue as well. CPU tops out at 100 degrees celsius and GPU at 91 degrees. This is after some schmuck from the dell service provider came and switched the HS. In addition I asked him to use the suggested thermal pads that iunlock mentioned and using thermal grizzly kryonout. Any suggestions? Maybe check what kind of connection between the HS and dies I've got? Idk... It seem wierd that it get's this hot, still after a change of HS...

 

Did the guy not test it after he replaced everything? I duno man maybe just get them back again.. Only thing I can think of is trying softer pads and balancing the heat sink a bit better.

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Nah, the guy looked generally nervous and stressed because it's an expencive machine. I have the option to send it in for a repair, but then there is no guarantee I'll keep the costly thermal pads and thermal paste... How does one balance the HS? I mean, do you just fiddle with the arms to get it to press down correctly or what?

 

I have a 17 R5 with an i7 8750 and GTX 1080 on the way, does anyone know if the heatsink changed at all from the R4? I intend to do LM and fujipoly, but not sure what fujipoly thickness to order.

 

I would just use the Arctic pads that are available on Amazon, way cheaper and they are softer than the Fujis.I got excellent results with them lately. Since they're softer, heatsink now makes better contact with the CPU which never went over 80C on full load since my last repaste which was around 2 weeks ago. Just order 3 sheets, 0.5mm, 1mm and 1.5mm and you'll have everything you need to repad with all the correct thicknesses. Remember, every system is different so the thickness you need might not be the same than the one I needed

 

I have a 17 R5 with an i7 8750 and GTX 1070 on the way, does anyone know if the heatsink changed at all from the R4?

I want to repaste and repad the device.

 

The process is the same.

 

[quotemsg = 1552829,1154,1117421]

Bonjour à tous.

Je viens d'effectuer un nettoyage complet (metal liquid grizzly) via the tuto to the suivant:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ssembly-repaste-guide-results.797373/page-384

Malheureusement, je rencontre un gros problème.

Ce qui correspond à priori à une erreur «2,7 écrans de l'écran» d'après Dell: https://www.dell.com/support/manuals/br/pt/brbsdt1/alienware-17-laptop/alienware -17-r4-servicemanual / diagnostics? Guid = guid-5c341b78-b63d-499c-89d4-d341c006e437 & lang = fr-fr

Je n'arrive pas à trouver la solution qui m'a permis de résoudre ce pb?

Inutile de vous dire que je suis dans une situation plus délicate et que j'ai la peur au ventre.

Je vous serais infiniment reconnaissant si vous avez une piste ou une idée pour m'en sortir?

D'avance merci à vous tous.

Cordialement

[/ quotemsg]
[Quotemsg = 1552829,1154,1117421]

Bonjour à tous.

Je viens de faire un pepast complet (grizzly métal liquide) et un changement de tous les coussinets thermiques (grizzly) via le tutoriel à l'adresse suivante:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ssembly-repaste-guide-results.797373/page-384

Malheureusement, j’ai un gros problème à savoir que mon alienware ne veut pas s’allumer et lance un flash rouge 2 fois et bleu 7 fois et un peu de musique en boucle aussi!

Ce qui est a priori une erreur "2,7 screen screen" selon dell: https://www.dell.com/support/manuals/br/pt/brbsdt1/alienware-17-laptop/alienware -17-r4-servicemanual / diagnostics? guid = guid-5c341b78-b63d-499c-89d4-d341c006e437 & lang = fr-fr

Je ne trouve pas la solution qui me permettrait de résoudre ce problème?

Inutile de vous dire que je suis dans une situation plus que délicate et que j'ai la peur dans le ventre.

Je serais très reconnaissant si vous avez une piste ou une idée pour vous en sortir?

D'avance, merci à tous.

Cordialement.
[/ Quotemsg]

 

Shout out to iunlock. Followed this guide and used kryonaut paste. Temps are amazing now! Wanted to add that I did a few dry runs to see how my fujipoly pads fit and had to double up on one section but didn't get the pressure I'd like but I used a little of the paste on each pad between the pad and heatsink and got the thermal transfer I wanted. I undervolted the cpu and had it on a cooling pad and had decent temps. Now with just some rubber under the back side to raise it up a bit during the stress test I hit 70* on my cpu and 66* on my gpu.

 

I have an r5 model with 8950HK+1080.

It seems that I really need to re-paste this with LM for it to be usable. However, this laptop will be traveling around a lot which seems to be a red flag for Liquid Metal. Is there a good guide for safely applying Liquid Metal and preventing critical damage due to possible leaks?

So far I've been to a thread that suggests to put a Polyurethane foam dam in conjunction with Electrical tape. Has anyone done this properly with this unit?

 

I have the same spec, and my cpu keeps going upto 100's gpu however is @75 max during warcraft. Not tried any other games yet.. What do people suggest using to monitor the temps while playing?

 

Salut, tu as trouvé une solution à ton problème ? Tu es de Lyon ?

 

Please keep it english for the rest of the forum.

 

He spoke in French and seems to not be able to speak English. That's why I answered in French.

For the translation, I just asked him if he found a solution to his problem and if he is from Lyon.

 

I just used the electrical tape when I did mine with LM. I traveling for work and my laptop ends up in overhead bins a lot.

I’ve been repasted for over 6 months now without issue.

 

do you leave this on or remove once its ready for the heatsink to go back on?

 

I left the electrical tape on the CPU and GPU. I used regular thermal paste on the PCH heatsink I put on, so I didn't use tape on it.

The only thing I did was when I applied the electrical tape, I had it stick up maybe 1mm over the height of the GPU and CPU dies, basically making a barrier around it. Then I applied the LM, and once I tightened down the heatsink, it contacted the LM, but also made a seal around the electrical tape.

Keep in mind that before doing this, I tested the fit multiple times with the thermal pads to make sure I had proper contact before actually applying the LM and putting the heatsink back on.

 

Hi i just got a Alienware 15 R3 2017 model with the i7 7820hk , gtx 1070 ,16gb to replace my dell 7559 .

The original owner re-pasted it only 2-3 months ago with kryonaut and the CPU reaches 82 degrees, when CPU is under 50% load and GPU doesn't go over 65 degrees when gaming . I believe the kryonaut applied has dried out around the cpu or poorly applied.

I have tried conductonaut before on my dell 7559 wasn't great kept drying up too often for me. I was wondering what paste will keep the temps down and have long reliability I read so many forums all stating ICD, also some stating CoolerMaster MasterGel Maker nano and Gelid gc extreme. But half of those kept saying that Gelid will dry out fast and that ICD could potentially damage the GPU and CPU die so I ordered CoolerMaster MasterGel Maker nano.

I wanted to know if this will suffice for over a year or more keeping temps under 80 degrees when running heavy games.
If not
I would like to use liquid metal, Im worried it might invalidate my warranty does anyone know? I know it does if I damage the laptop in the process, but what if I apply it correctly does it also void warranty?

Also will it last me a year or more before re-paste. I know how to apply it. I was curious not only if i put electrical tape but if I use thin porous foam like a thin dust filter and cut it around the die will the be able to stop any likely hood of air drying out the LM and stop chances of any of it seeping to the components because i move my laptop around a lot and don't want to risk making it into a potato.

Thank you for taking your time reading this !