Alienware 15r3 7820hk heat issues

Hey guys. I've read several threads mentioning the heat issues and have seen iunlocks repaste thread. I repasted my alienware 15r3 with conductonaut and my temps climbed substantially. I was generous with the LM but it seems my heatsink is a bad fit. I don't want to go through the process of lapping or anything like that and would like to know if anyone knows of a service or better heatsink made which can offer me better temps on the cpu. The 1080 in my laptop stays very cool at average 65c. I am currently using kryonaut on the two dies but I've read that it is much too runny for the heatsink. I guess I can go to ICD7 but it works ok so far. I am undervolted -.060v and my temps hover around 85c at 60%+ usage. it will spike as high as 92c under heavy load at 4.2ghz. My current heatsink is the sunnon heatsink which I believe is the better of the two. any suggestions would be helpful thanks.

Alienware 15R3
Intel Core i7 7820HK 4.2ghz
Nvidia GTX 1080 Max-Q
16gb ddr4 2400mhz
512gb nvme+1tb nvme+2tb hdd
1080p 120hz gsync
windows 10 pro
330w psu

 

Hey man, I have your exact setup, my temps were high so i bought kryonaut and conductonaut, but i repasted with kryonaut being still afraid from conductonaut, anyway temps are almost the same ans thats frustrating, i believe the thermal pads measurements by dell are wrong, i really need to see other people's thermal pad measurements for this exact model but i cant see any pictures online

 

There are various heatsinks with various pads. You cant blindly follow other their setups unfortunately.

 

I did this with mine it Kryonaut made no difference either i used epoxy on the pins around the video card and tried Conduconaut, and there was a 15 to 20 degree drop well worth it and the epoxy seems to have done the job, just make sure you get all the air bubbles out of tube before applying, or applying the LM to something else then transferring to the dies as to save yourself the trouble of having to picking it out of your ram slots like i had to :S

 

I actually repasted with conductonaut but used more than I usually would and my temps are much better now.

 

you have to use a bit more liquid metal on the sides. this will remove core temp differences. i had the same problem and after i read a post saying that use a bit more on the sides will fix it i have tried it and it worked. make sure you use proper electrical tape around so it doesnot spill out on the sides and you are good to go!

 

I asked dell twice to send me a screenshot with exact measurements so that i make sure they didn't put them in a wrong way, and they said they dont have that information, i have premium support and it feels like a waste of money, i repasted and changed pads to the exact measurements dell had on them, and the temps on idle are better, but in gaming suck

 

Sorry for the late reply, thats amazing news man! I am still afraid of it however because i carry the laptop around vertically a lot, and it was mentioned somewhere if you finish a gaming session for example and instantly close your laptop and carry it vertically theres a chance hot liquid metal would spill, would there be a chance that it spills beyond the pins and ruin something else on the laptop? i hope all is going well with you so far, also, is epoxy better than the scotch tape?

 

I used nail polish and no tape. 4-5 layers apply>>let dry>>apply>>let dry etc.
However safest is doing both. With tape, if LM gets under there is still nail polish.

This will protect against LM getting on GPU/CPU small chips around the dye (e.g. if you use too much LM etc.)

People who carry their LM laptop around should use foam barriers to protect the motherboard from travelling LM balls.

 

ou can measure them yourselves ofcoure. Buy a pack of 1mm and 0.5mm pads. Remove the old ones and compared the thickness.

 

@c69k Where can I get foam barriers? Aliexpress??

 

I don't know. I do not use them, but some people on the forum do. If you carry your laptop around they are 'peace of mind logic solution'.
Check @Mr. Fox on this page.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ol-laboratory-liquid-ultra-pro.791489/page-46

 

Also, @Falkentyne @Mr. Fox @Mobius 1 @Papusan can help.

 

You can use a number of things to make a dam or barrier to keep liquid metal from escaping from where you place it. Foam dams are one example, as shown the the video in my YouTube channel. If you use foam, it needs to be very thin to start with. It should not be much thicker than the air space you will fill with it. It should also be super soft and compressible to near zero height with little or no resistance. Otherwise, it can interfere with heat sink contact. I used a thin layer of foam that came in shipping material to protect an LCD panel. (That is what is visible in the video.)

You can also use a thick non-conductive thermal paste, or a narrow bead of RTV silicon. If you use RTV silicon, lay some tape or thin layer of plastic wrap on top of the bead of silicon to avoid having it glue the heat sink in place. The next time you take it apart, it won't be stuck and you can throw the plastic away. The bead of silicon should continue working as a gasket after removing the plastic.

 

how did the foam stay in place?

 

By the compression of the CPU/GPU heatsink collapsing it and holding it in place. That is why the thicker but with a high compression rate is better to
use. Just make sure the foam doesn't impede the pairing in any way.

 

Is there a good source for this foam?

 

thanks. can kitchen sponge type work? but I can cut it thin and flat

 

Hey guys, I'm new here despite reading the forums for years. I recently just bought a 15r3 with the i7 7820hk and gtx 1080mq too like the op for a decent $2400 CAD (only reason i bought it). Anyways i overclocked it to 4.5ghz and hit 91°C max on it....before settling around 89°C running cinebench 8-10 times. Now I may have jumped the gun and worried too quickly and ordered an exchange model but where these temps getting too hot with my overclock? What should i be achieving or aiming for regarding temps? Srry if i broke any newbie rules but I just want your opinions.

 

Absoolutely NOT. Too thick and too hard. Trimmed sponge only "feels" suitable when wet. Just go to the hardware store and buy some of the least dense, most compressible foam available. If you can manage to trim a cutout that is 1mm to 2mm in thickness size while being super compressible with no resistance, that would be great. The reason something paper thin won't work is because it has to be thick enough to 'block' the air gap area between the heatsink and the CPU (or GPU) housing surface. If it's not, then it winds up being no different than attempting to use Super 33+ tape as a "dam" by stacking layers. And I would not recommend that either. More material just means more heat trapped somewhere that can't escape.

 

I have found a foam from a packaging it was 3mm and without adding pressure pressing it measured 0.3mm on a caliper. Is this good?

 

Seems fine. Easy acid test is to cut the foam out, unless you have 30g of ebay Galinstan, use regular basic thermal paste (proper full application, fresh and clean), WITHOUT the foam dam (meaning a full repaste), test load temps for 3 minutes (dont need a long test), then disassemble, put the foam dam back on with normal paste (make sure you do another clean and pure application), and compare temps. This works best with a runny paste like Kryonaut for this type of test. If temps are identical (foam dam did not affect temps), then you are good to go with LM.

Of course if you went caveman and bought your ebay Galinstan or made your own, plus amazon cheap syringes, then have at thee with using LM for control testing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/323213005662?ViewItem=&item=323213005662

 

my laptop now temps is now stable and lower after LM and foam method and 3 coats of nail polish. I use modeling clay to determine the thickness of 15 r3 thermal pads in my cci heatsink. I put bits of clay to the cpu gpu, memory chips and everything the heatsink will cover then press it with screws. measuring the flattened clay on caliper I got 4 different size like in the gpu memory there is 0.5 on the 2 chips on the left 0.8 on the 3 chips on top and 1mm on the right chips. and I got some thinner measurements vs the original thermal pad thickness. all the smallest thermal pads placement in the gpu and cpu near the fans measured 0.2mm. I only used 1mm 50x60 fujipoly and there are some left. I press it a bit so it fits the measurement I found. the stock thermal pads also leave some oily substance to the heatsink and chips I just clean it with arcticlean

 

Nice work. What's your temps now? Can you post hwinfo and a few hours gaming in something demanding?

 

If I would paste it with LM I would use a hot glue gun for the barrier wall.