Can't Overclock "Stable" Settings? (AW17R3 6820HK)

I am able to choose either OC LV 1 or OC LV 2, and both seem to work. OC LV 2 did shut the computer down at least once so far, but has been fine since that time...

If I try OC LV 3, as with most people, it just won't work. The laptop is unable to get into Windows 10 and freezes on the twirling dots...

And if I try custom settings for 4.1, 4.2, or 4.3 found here (from this forum), the same thing occurs in terms of freezing before entering Windows.

Anyone have any suggestions? I would like to get at least 4.0 stable, but the way it's looking, this laptop won't allow it...

 

Hello there,

Rule #1, never use the stock crippled Dell settings in BIOS to OC.

Check this thread as it is loaded with OC info.

Cheers

 

That's the thread I followed. I started with OC LV 1 then changed to Customization. I then plugged in the settings from that thread trying 4.1GHz, 4.2GHz, and 4.3GHz, but I am unable to even get into Windows once they are saved.

Should I try going into the BIOS and enabling Performance Mode, leaving CPU OC disabled, then trying to use IXTU to do the OC? Or will that just ensure I cannot OC at all?

Thanks for the reply (and the email!).

 

Your very welcome.

Go into BIOS, set it to default, F10, get back into BIOS by pressing F2 again, now go to custom and set your OC to 41, 41, 41, 41, leave the Core extra turbo at 0, and set the power limits to 100,000 and 100,000....F10 and see what happens.

Note: it's important to follow the steps precisely as setting it to default in the beginning of the instructions is a crucial step to clear the cache.

* see pic below...I know it shows 90,000 and 90,000, but it really doesn't matter. I normally just enter 100,000 for both power limits...again it doesn't matter.



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That may be why then. I think the last time I set it to default I had my drive set for AHCI and it went back to RAID, which forced me to reinstall Windows 10. Everything is on RAID now, so that should not be a worry anymore, should it?

Thanks!

 

I take it you have m.2 as your boot drive and a 2.5" as a slave drive? If so, you'd want AHCI. .not RAID.

Bios stuff is really goofy...

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I did initially, but I have changed to just a "normal" SSD from the HDD slot, with a M.2 SSD as a secondary drive. Given that, should I be okay on RAID?

 

@iunlock - Okay, so I went ahead and gave it a try and no dice. The best I can do is 4.0GHz for each core, leave Core Extra Turbo Voltage at 0, and both Power Limits at 100,000. This will allow Windows 10 to actually boot.

If I try 4.1GHz for all cores, or anything other than that, I normally either get a WHEA_UNCCONTROLLABLE_ERROR, or a CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT; both point to a CPU issue.

I went ahead and ran the IXTU benchmark just to see what I was getting at 4.0GHz and the CPU hit 97 degrees! Does that seem normal? Would a repaste help bring down the temps, and thus allow for a better overclock? (I am using the stock paste.)

 

I don't think that's normal on stock paste, but then again I don't know the room temperature you are in. I managed to get a stable 4.3Ghz on stock paste manually, my max temp was 94c during stress test. Backed it down to 4.0Ghz, comfortable there with temps until I repaste.

Repasting is a must IMHO if you plan to run it at anything above factory. Depending on the paste you use you should see a huge drop in temps at idle and stress.

 

I thought it was a bit too high. I guess I'll have to try some Grizzly paste, or something else of high quality.

 

The culprit is your stock thermal paste, which is just shy of the effectiveness quality wise of toothpaste. ie....it's horrific and a repaste is a must.

Here is the link to the thread that may make your dreams come true.

 

Looks good! What kind of pads did you buy for the replacement? When I can, I want to go through the repaste. Do you absolutely recommend the Grizzly Conductonaut over the Kryonaut?

Just to add to the thread, I was able to get up to 4.1, 4.2, and 4.3, but it did require more Core Extra Turbo Voltage than 1200 in order to get into Windows 10 successfully and not freeze up immediately. For those in the same situation, it took me 0 at 4.0GHz, 1250 at 4.1GHz, 1300 at 4.2GHz, and 1350 at 4.3GHz. I did not get a chance to dial in the voltage as I went by intervals of 50. As such, you may be able to pull back a bit, but test to make sure it is stable! And REPASTE for better results (and safety)!

 

Thermal Pads: Fujipoy 17.0 mK/w

Thermal paste: Grizzly Conductonaut.

Note: Grizzly Kyronaut is a traditional paste that is non conductive. It's easy to apply this and just be done with it.

Grizzly Conductonaut on the other hand is a liquid metal paste, the best to date by the way, and requires a lot more care and prep. (Check out the thread I linked you.)

As for the OC, all systems are not created equally as you've come to realize. Silicon lottery...some get lucky some don't. It's just the part of the game.

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OP,

I just had my board swapped as I could not even do the slightest hint of overclocking without swift and brutal BSODs. You may be in the same boat as I was. My new board is not much better but at least I can run OC benchmarks (results suck, but no blue screen!)

 

Thanks, but I actually just had my board swapped before posting this. I was able to get stable overclocking accomplished, but I had to push a bit more voltage to do so.