Ebay 198W heatsink

I decided to take the plunge and buy the heatsink from ebay https://m.ebay.com/itm/CPU-Vacuum-c...th-Heatsink-/253323164302?txnId=2289177099015 and I have to say, after opening up my friends new 17R5 to repaste his 8950hk, his R5 heatsink looks very close to the modified R4 heatsink.

Both have one heatpipe covered by the fan shrouds, both have the CPU copper plate looking very shiny and the only difference is on the r5 CPU plate has a ton of tiny circles on it. The r5 heatsink has the single arm position changed as usual. Otherwise they both have the same notch.

Does that mean he may be modifying R5 heatsinks? A bit curious here.

 

the CPU tension arm for R5 is far stronger than R4. But do let us know how it goes with your ebay heatsink

 

I'll have to take pictures but this guy added an extra screw to the CPU tension arm below its weld point making it stronger. I'll disassemble my unit tomorrow to do some work and take pictures.

 

The R5 heatsink has a Vapor Chamber instead of pure copper cold plate for the Cpu.

 

Image link from ebay: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ITYAAOSw-wJaO2lR/s-l400.jpg
It looks like that guy may have taken the new R5 and soldered the R4 CPU portion of the heatsink on. Otherwise the heatsink and fans in my buddies R5 and the modded heatsink look identical. But I will get pictures of my heatsink compared to my old one posted for a good comparison.

I just got some more conductonaut in so I'll be ripping my unit apart to repaste with the new heatsink.

 

I would want to have this for my 15r3....

 

Hmm have been examining the photos. the assembly looks identical to the original jsut without any paint. I am wondering what is changed.

The tension arm most importantly is the same.

 

Have you tried this heatsink and does it really lower the temps?

 

You can see that the CPU portion of the heatsink has the diagonal slot for the tension arm, filled in, and it looks to go where the R5 heatsink arm goes. This one for added strength had an extra screw placed on the R4 version of the arm and it feels stronger.

The Fan shrouds look identical to the R5 heatsink, whereas the R4s are not covered by the shroud.

 

Working on another 17r4 of a friend in the area and this is a comparison of both heatsinks next to each other. The Ebay one on bottom of picture.



You can clearly see the indent where the R5 arm should go, the left CPU arm is thicker and the right one is a tad thicker and longer. The shape of the CPU side is a bit different and the GPU arms when you unscrew it clearly have an audible "thock" of pressure being released. You can also see it "spring" up a little.

 

So yeah they repurposed a R5 heatsink after seeing your photos.

 

Does that mean mine most likely has this "vapor chamber"? The CPU copper portion was almost mirror-like in reflectiveness and even had the same notch in the same spot as his.

Once I get everything together and the other computer working I will be testing this out heavily.

 

I think it has. he repurposed the heatsink from what I can tell. It looks identical and I thik he only buffed the bottom coldplate and adjusted the arm. The rest is identical.

 

That is rather shocking if that's the case. This is a view of the underside, cleaned the LM off but am unsure if this residue on here will have any impact. Cleaned using the isopropyl alcohol but it is being very stubborn. It bonded very quickly despite not having on for long.

 

Nope. As long it's even and flat it will be fine... As it is now, The copper will suck less Liquid metal with the LM repaste. Aka the next round with Liquid metal will last longer.

 

Yep I actually agree

Seen and had that many times myself. It's nothing to worry about in fact it's actually better for future repastes!

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So when I get my machine put back together (using k5-pro for pads and LM for paste) I'll put it thru a test later. Till then, I'm at work. Lol

 

Nice, how is the k5 holding up with you ? I still get an occasional VREL, but it does not drop my utilization or speeds.

Thinking about buying this heatsink and see how it fares. Maybe there is a small chance I can get a higher OC, due the heatsink giving the r4 more headroom.

 

Just got off work and am now back to working on my machine.

As for the K5-Pro, it's very viscous, a bit thicker and stickier than toothpaste (not the thermal stamp, lol) and does very well as you can set it on a tad thick and it will compress very well with pressure. The hottest spots on the laptop where you apply it will harden up more quickly while cooler spots stay gooey.

 

I haven't checked out mine yet, but it seems to hold the temperatures of my VRM's in check. One thing I'm curious about is, if you put k5 on the PCB of the cpu (around the die) if it improves temperatures cause there is more surface that the heatsink can extract heat from.

If I'm going to buy this heatsink, I think I'm going to put a layer around the Die of the cpu to see if it can shave of maybe an extra 1 or 2 C Celsius.

 

Be careful with the K5 and it near liquid metal, it causes the metal to completely destabilize and NOT stay on the heatsink or die. I actually created a thermal pad bridge from PCH to heat pipes and it seemed to shave off some heat of the PCH. Second picture has a mock up of the middle cover to show how well it's hidden.

 

This is definitely the R5 heatsink. No doubt about it.

 

i agree, definitely the R5 heatsink. specially if you look how the the tension arm is attached, indicating that it's not the factory configuration.

Going to order one myself next week to see how it performs.
trying to get to 4.6, but my current heatsink (and ambient room temp) isn't making it easy on me)

 

I may have to apply a tad more LM to my rig, or give it a few days to settle in. Putting my machine at 4.4ghz with a -40mv undervolt, it was hitting 91*C on Prime95 with an ambient of 29*C. This was performed within 1hr of the application of the LM.

There was a max differential of 4*C with Core 2 being hottest at 91*C and Core 1 being coolest at 87*C, while cores 0 and 3 were identical at 90*C. Prime95 was run for 10 minutes with temps not budging after the 5 min mark.

On the topic of the heatsink, if you buy it from the ebay guy, message him first and see if you can get a picture of the heatsinks he has atm to verify if you are gonna get the newer one or if I just got lucky.

 

On a side note, one reason I got this heatsink was due to it stating better heat dissipation because to save on electricity my family is running the thermostat on our air conditioning at 28*C instead of 23*C and that alone caused a nice nasty jump in temperatures alone. This heatsink seems to help with that due to it being the newer models heatsink, which I joked with a friend who got warranty upgraded to the r4, that I would love to steal his heatsink... well now I don't. LOL.

That... and I guess my plunge into searching for lower temps led me to a massive potential discovery, we do have a means of attaining the newer heatsink.

 

How long have you had the k5pro on as pad replacement? I found it dried out on chips I used that with pads after 7 - 8 months so I don't do that anymore

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Don't do that if you use LM. it will react with the k5.

Also it's good to have a little airflow for the die and LM under the heatsink from my experience

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I think @iunlock tried this but didn't recommend it since that extra large "radiator" of pads now connecting the PCH to the heatsink increases ambient temps for everything inside and also completely stops what little airflow there is

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That may be true. I am seeing higher CPU temps as a result, 5ish *C, but the PCH is reduced by around 10*C. I am doing the same thing to my M.2's, except its bridging between the GPU and the GPUs fan. Hottest the M.2's got was 68*C on Drive Temperature #2. These are Samsung 961 1TBs btw. Drive Temperature #1 was at 55*C at max.

As is right now, temperatures when running Prime95 @ 4ghz with a 150mv undervolt:
Core 0: Max 76c // Avg 76c
Core 1: Max 74c // Avg 72c
Core 2: Max 78c // Avg 76c
Core 3: Max 77c // Avg 76c
This was 20 minutes running and temps havent changed from the first 5 minutes. As soon as I hit QUIT, the temps drop to 49*C across all 4 cores nearly instantly and slowly drop down from there so I know that contact is being made fairly well.

Core #1 seems to be the cooler core while Core #2 seems to be the hotter core. The LM was brushed on taking quite a while to make sure it was properly saturating both sides (Die and Plate) and had to do some pad readjustment (the components north of the CPU had some pads not touching), so I am not sure.

My ambient temperatures are 29-30*C as well. I will be undoing the PCH mod I have done to see if that improves anything, but the SSD mod is almost essential, as the Drive Temp #2 sensor can get as north as 95-100*C if the mod isnt running.

And the last time I used K5-Pro as my pads, they did dry out, but as long as you dont have to remove your heatsink the heat conductivity remains constant, atleast from what I have seen. No VRM issues.

 

The reason your pch is cooler is because of the pads on top. The whole bridge doesnt do anythibg. Pads dont work like that and you are disrupting the airflow like this.

 

Could be, I have tried it with just pads on it, little metal heatsinks or the bridge, and the bridge got better numbers or so I thought. Did the same thing to test it each time, heavy gaming for 3 hours. Going to be opening up the bottom soon tomorrow before work to tinker with a few things.

 

i'm going to buy a graphene sheet, to bridge the connections just like how you did, but instead with graphene. it's more flexible and it transfers alot of heat.

maybe i'll make a guide how to make the PCH, SSD and RAM actively cooled. your method seems to work, but i think your results can be better if you switched the pads you used for example a piece of copper (or graphene). but i could be wrong. it looks very nice though.

 

graphene is indeed the right choice, excellent lateral heat transfer.

Only needs kaftan tape underneath though because it is conductive.

 

yes true you're totally right ! i was thinking about putting a small drop of kryonaught beneath it, and then put some electrical tape around it, so it stays putt for sure ! what is your opinion about using copper, binding or glueing them toghether to make a thermal interface to the heatsink ? they way @cskx2001 did it, certainly gives room for RAM cooling and SSD cooling. but i want it to become flexible, so if people cannot afford a sheet of graphene, they can use a few copper shims glued togheter as a second plan.

 

Hmm I dotn have any experience with that. I only went to a workshop at TU delft once and there they milled a custom copper thin block for me which functioned as a custom VRM heatsink on my old GTX670 board. i think they can make a 2mm thick heatsink in de shape you want and maybe you can use a thinner sheet to connect it of use graphite to connect it? From what I understood graphite is exceptionally good for lateral transfer.

 

Ordered it. Estimated delivery date between friday 3 august and monday 17 september. Hoping that it arrives soon, so the testing can begin. i'm very curious about how it cools the cpu in combination with a good LM repaste.

 

curious about your finding.

Still think the pic they use is a bit misleading.

 

Overall it seems to cool better than the stock cooler by a few degrees and I paid for express shipping and got mine well before the due date.

Things on my To-Do list:
1• Adjust the PCH cooling to just a couple square pads over PCH only.
2• Look at applying a little more liquid metal on the CPU. Temps are still a little high with 6*c higher ambient than my normal.
3• Looking at using a couple of the IC Thermal Pads stacked on top of each other on the CPU. If the CPU side does have the vapor chamber, couldn't the graphite pads spread the heat out better and the vapor chamber pull it up better? Or would LM still be superior?

 

Yeah me too. I kinda agree on that note also, I'm expecting it to be in that color, but I'm suspecting it will look just like @cskx2001 his heatsinks looked like.

 

Got my heatsink today and i have to say i'm very pleased with the process of ordering and getting it in the mail. It was moved by UPS and last friday they already attempted to deliver it, but i was at work.

The heatsink look exactly like the R4 heatsink, i even started doubting if i really received a R5 heatsink. but as soon as i turned it over, i could see the place where the old arm was attached, and where he attached the R4 arm with 2 screws.
The heatsink assembly looked very nice and does not have any dents or chips indicating that he has gotten better at modifying the heatsinks (compared to OP's heatsink)

It looks like they're using a vapor-chamber like design and it's not just a piece of copper connecting the heatsink area to the DIE area.

i made some close up pictures with my phone, bear with me it's from an s9 not an dslr camera.

 

some more pictures

 

and the last set

 

Looking forward to your results. The craftmanship looks indeed better on this unit.

 

Please post high quality image of the bottom of heatsink(the Copper) Especially the Cpu part.

 

will do ! i was just cleaning the cpu part, to start to dissasemble my laptop

 

Thanks. Use a Razor blade and light source to measure the finish. Or other proper tools. Afterwards when you have applied paste test with equal settings as before and in same benchmarks.

 

Yep, mine looks identical as to the pictures that Rei has taken, altho mine were with an S8+ instead. I really cant give an identical performance comparison as my ambient temperatures are around 6*C higher than before and it seems to have a major effect on even my old heatsink as well. I have been REALLY busy so I have not been able to do any real disassembly of my laptop, but I do notice that the heatsink seems to retain the heat a bit more (temps dont drop as sharply after a heavy load or gaming session has been completed) but it does keep temps lower than the prior heatsink.

I have a good deal of modifications to perform on my machine (repadding is the biggest one) and when I do I will be giving my machine a royal thrashing of a test.
Running at 4.5ghz with no undervolt and 28*C ambient temperatures, I hit 90-95*C fairly easily. But I think that is partially due to my old ambient temperatures being 22*C and everything seemed to run nicer back then. The higher ambients caused me to want to get the new heatsink and its hard to say overall, but it feels better. My keyboard feels cooler to the touch as well.

 

Installed to heatsink, and laptop does not boot anymore. It turns on lights go on but no boot. If it gives of an error it's only for the CMOS battery (3 red 1 blue) but when I reset it, it starts with automatic recovery of windows and turns off.

If I can get it to boot the testing can begin !

Edit: after countless of reboots, different configurations (booting with ram removed, booting without SSD, and so on) my board got shorted (or i shorted my board). Nonetheless I've called AW in the morning, and tomorrow i'm getting a new mobo installed. The rep has to install it, so i'm going to let him install the new heatsink on the new mobo.

i do find it strange that my board shorted, after i forced it to boot windows (it could not find media, but my bios detected a windows uefi mbr) but i'm glad it's getting fixed. Because this was also my 6th fix already he offered my an R5 but politely declined because of the uncertainty of with what bios it came (and because i just invested a 100 euro's in a new heatsink).

Tomorrow after the fix, i'll update this post.

 

If you were using liquid metal then a small micro droplet could have gotten loose and did the deed. Otherwise it could have purely been by chance that it died. That or a random short from static.

My only issue installing it was when I finished reassembling I accidentally unplugged my cmos battery and it took several reboots before the bios let me into it. It kept giving me the bios code for reset cmos but wouldn't let me tinker with it. Lol.

Rei, on the other heatsink, what multipliers did you run your CPU at, temps during a cpu stressed, and rough ambient temperatures at? If you can recall.