*OFFICIAL* Alienware 13 R1/R2 Owner's Lounge

Unless your XoticPC.

 

Ha. Well, they say "back ordered" and you can't even order them, yet. So, they're stopping purchases. Alienware is selling the 13's with Skylake disguised as Broadwell. Little loophole exploitation...

 

Not sure if this has been answered or not, but will this laptop support an Samsung m.2 NVMe SSD?

 

So I will be ordering an r2 with the 1080p screen and the skylake i7 when all is officially confirmed. Probably only 8gb of ram unless anybody thinks the 16gb is worth it at the price dell charges. Also, I don't know which hdd to get? the hybrid? the 256 so i have the extra slot?

I have been looking at replacing my m11x for ages and was considering the gigabyte p34v5 with skylake when it comes out but I've had good luck with dell stuff lasting forever and its easy to fix and replace parts.

When do you think we will see some decent deals on the 13 r2? Thanksgiving? I can get the dell student/military discount.

 

It's already been officially confirmed...

The one I ordered on 9/2 is very similar to this and is currently in production. I went with Skylake i7, 1080P, 8GB RAM, and 512GB Hybrid HDD. It was cheaper for me to buy 16GB RAM from Newegg, and I already have a 512GB SSD ready and waiting.

 

Are you just replacing the hybrid? Or are you adding the SSD as an additional drive? I am not clear on whether you have to order a specific config of drives to be able to fit two SSD?

 

More than likely replacing the hybrid... I did not want to spend the extra $ on a M.2 PCIe SSD, and not sure the M.2 SATA one I have will work.

The configuration should not matter, the M.2 slot should be available on any config.

 

Not if the design is the same s the AW13r1. If you order the HDD you do not get the m.2 slots (the m.2 slots are in a caddy that sits where a 2.5" would be installed)

 

You're right. Just checked the service manual and it's the same situation it seems. This is still not a big deal for me. I'm sure if I ever wanted to get a M.2 PCIe SSD, I could obtain the "caddy".

http://downloads.dell.com/Manuals/a...tops/alienware-13-r2_Service Manual_en-us.pdf

 

How is the keyboard on this laptop? This is one laptop that I have shortlisted and I want to know if the keyboard is any good. It is either this or a thinkpad (I want this, but if the keyboard sucks, I will most probably buy a thinkpad).

 

I like the keyboard on this, but I am not picky about my keyboards. It serves it purpose for gaming and coding for me.

 

What about keyboard travel? is it satisfying to use the keyboard?

Also if anyone could tell me how good the battery life is (browsing the web, working on google docs) on power saver mode is? If I do buy it, I will be taking it to school everyday, which means that I would prefer something that could last me 6-7 hours.

 

I am using balance mode, lasted about 4hours + on basic use

Sent from my LG-X145 using Tapatalk

 

I have the AW13 r1.

The keys are a bit flimsy and the plastic looks and feels a bit cheap (what doesn't these days?).
Typing on it is great compared to flat keys with spaces between them like on almost all other laptops.
What makes it great is; concave key tops, no space between keys, long key travel (for a laptop) and LED backlighting.
One of the main reasons I got the AW13 is for the keyboard.

I also have a Samsung Ativ Book 8 with a really bad keyboard. The SAB8 keys are silver w/ a light blue backlight that actually makes the keys harder to read in anything but complete darkness. They have almost zero travel, are flat, and have big spaces between them. I have to slap the keys to touch type.
I don't know if the AW13 has the best keyboard, but it's night and day difference from the SAB8.

The battery life is hard to evaluate for a couple of reasons. If you read this thread through you'll see there is an inconsistency in battery power drain depending on if you power up plugged in then disconnect, or power up on battery alone. I look at the power time estimates on the windows battery symbol and they are very inaccurate and are not useful. I was in a 3 hour class doing web coding. I was on power saver mode and from 94% down to 38% it always said I have 1hr 35min remaining. (useless)

I would say from experience while not gaming, about 5 hrs is a good estimate. While gaming about 1hr on battery.

I would get the R2 with the 62Whr battery. I'm hoping I can buy the bigger battery, and somehow fit it into the R1.

 

Just noticed a discrepancy between my AW13 order and the site...

 

I received confirmation from Alienware that the 1080P screens will be 220-nits, not 350-nits.

 

Thanks for clarifying.

Just wondering, has anyone gotten to installing Win 10 on a clean installation without having any driver issues?

 

I took the plunge and went ahead with the reformat. No unknown devices in device manager (figured out the ACPI was the thermal platform something which I downloaded from the AW13 R2 chipset section).

However, plugging my graphics amp in results in either a blank screen (both screens) or a BSOD, which will later result in a reboot and then a blank screen.

Does anyone know how to solve this? I'm using the latest nvidia drivers for notebook. Did DDU a couple of times and installed while the AGA was plugged in and while it wasn't. Same results.

 

[Sorry accidentally double-posted - editing this post to put up my solution anyway]

After 4 re-formats of my boot drive, figured out how to get a clean Windows 10 install. Battery life still maintaining its previous 5 hour average normal-use timing.

What I did:
1. Create an x64 Windows 10 Home installation media using Microsoft's Windows 10 Media Creation Tool. (My Alienware shipped with Windows 8.1 non-pro, which updated to Windows 10 Home)
2. Download all the Windows 10 drivers (Including OSD Application and Command Centre, and the AGA app if you require it) you require from the Alienware support site. I did not download the WLAN or LAN drivers as I used the Killer Suite installer instead.
3. Download the ST Drop sensor driver from the Windows 8.1 page
4. Download the Intel Dynamic Platform and Thermal Framework drivers from the Alienware R2 support site (Windows 10)
5. Download the Intel INF Update Utility & Intel HD Graphics from the Intel Download Centre
5b. Download your nVidia drivers (Regardless of whether you have the AGA or not, use the Notebook drivers)
6. Boot into your Windows 10 Installation (F2 to get into BIOS, F12 to get Boot Device Selection)
7. Delete all your current partitions (note this will remove your dell backup and recovery stuff)
8. Select your boot drive, Format, and then next.
9. Whenever prompted for a CD key, click Skip. Windows uses your hardware profile to authenticate the Windows 10 installation at a later stage once you get internet connectivity after booting into Windows 10.
10. Once the format is complete, first install the Intel INF Update Utility, then the Intel Dynamic Platform and Thermal Framework drivers.
11. Install the remaining drivers. I left network drivers for last in case Windows started searching for drivers online
12. You would notice the ST Drop sensor drivers will report that its an unsupported OS. Instead of Installing it, choose the Extract option and extract it into a folder. Then, go to Device Manager, and select the Unknown Device (if you have several, try going to each one) and select Install Driver. Point the installation wizard to the Windows 8.1 x64 driver folder that you extracted. It should install.
13. If you're lacking a Simple PCI Communications device, it is the Intel Management Engine Interface driver which Windows automatically installed on the first Windows Update.

IF YOU'RE ON AN AGA (this is for an nVidia installation)
1. This is key to a successful installation (took me 4 tries to figure it out) - unplug ALL PERIPHERALS from the AGA. Monitors, USB devices, leave only the power and PCIe connectors in.
2. Install the AGA application before shutting your computer down.
3. With the AGA plugged in, boot up your computer and then install the nVidia notebook drivers. Using GPU-Z you should see that your internal discrete GPU is not detected but only the card in your AGA and the Intel HD Graphics are detected.
4. While your computer is turned on, plug your monitors and peripherals back in one-by-one for Windows to properly detect each device and install relevant drivers.


Hope the instructions were clear for anyone who wants to do a clean Windows 10 install.

 

Good stuff @shrmn Let me know how your wireless connection holds up. I'm not getting anymore BSoD due to the wireless driver anymore *knocks on wood*. However, my connection still seems to drop from time to time. I had it stream YouTube videos for 12 hours straight. Download a 37 GB file without issue. But let it randomly go idle and then try to use it, it will sometimes lose my wireless connection and most of the time, for me to get it to come back up, I have to restart the system.

 

I haven't had the chance to use wifi extensively just yet. (I will for 3 hours tomorrow working on Google Docs online). I've never had a BSoD (yet) since the reformat.

However, I'm encountering an issue where my computer will not shut down with the AGA plugged in though. After pressing shutdown, it will show its shut down screen as usual, then all the monitors will turn off, but the keyboard and alienware logo will remain lit. The AGA will also continue to run. Thought it was doing some sort of updates but left it for 3 hours and it was still running. Had to do a force-shutdown by pressing and holding down on the power button. This has happened 2 times already.

Does anyone know how to check on what was holding up the shut down?

 

Having WIFI issue on windows 10 fresh install also but mine will just not work at some point as in no internet connection drivers look good no issues there but wifi wont pickup anything at all, the nf key works to disable/enable the card but it just stop's working all together. That is with the killer drivers and the dell killer drivers will try the R2 drivers next.

 

Sounds exactly like the issues I have. Glad to see I am not the only one that encountered this issue.

 

Reporting back after 3 hours of continuous WiFi usage on a corporate network (PEAP MSCHAPv2).

No issues with the wifi at all. Connection remained stable.

I'm now at a public wifi hotspot posting this as well, no issues.

 

Mine works for days then at some point it would just stop working.

 

^ This. Annoying as hell!

 

I have not experienced any issues with wifi so far. Was on a VPN over the wifi for 3 hours straight today and no disconnects.

The unable-to-shutdown fully issue is really bugging me though. Happens almost every time when shutting down with the AGA plugged in. I have to force-shutdown the system which I feel is unhealthy for the laptop. Anyone has any ideas?

 

Anyone repasted the CPU yet on their 13? Looks like a full dissemble to access the CPU/GPU heatsinks (what a pain).

My 5500U idles at ~50, which i feel is a bit high for a ULV laptop idling. Ironically, since the fans don't really turn on unless gaming, it feels hotter (on lap) while idiling than while the fans are pushing air through.

 

Thats odd, my i5 4210 is cool on 2d at all times, only warms up whilst gaming. I have an i7 5500 turning up today so I will compare. If mine gets warm I will repaste and let you know

 

Just ordered my alienware 13 system! top notch all upgrades.

 

This is a review of the upgraded AW13.
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Alienware-13-GTX-960M-Notebook-Review.142854.0.html

They don't have the CPU temps at idle, but the noise, power use, and case/keyboard temps are all higher than the 4210U version.

I took the AW13 apart to correct a Bios battery failure, and it is a pain to get to the heat sinks.
Take good pictures during dis-assembly in order to get the wires to the screen put back properly.

 

OK, my i7 arrived. I installed XTU on it and compared to my 4210. Both idle about 40c, as soon as any load is applied to the i7 it shoots up into the 50s (much faster than the i5) on the hardware stress test it is about 10c higher than the i5.

Wattage wise, on CPU load there is 1-2watts difference (i5 = 28w i7 = 29w) but on 3dmark there is 10-15w difference (but this is more likely the 960s higher clocks than the 860)

 

Wait, you own both a 13 w/i5-4210u and the 13w/GTX 960m? Or are you borrowing one of them?

 

I run small shop that sells gaming laptop so I get to take my pick perks of the job. I have access to all Alienware models.
Have a top spec AW13 r2 on its way so will also compare that one.

I am leaning towards keeping the i5 4210 at the moment as it is so much quieter than the i7

 

Nice! That would easily be a weekend of fun for me, comparing and benchmarking them for any minor differences.

 

Haha that is why I love my job Having compared the 13, 15 and 17 I actually kept a 13 as I love the portability, noise and the fact the palms don't get hot (unlike the 15 and 17)

Having compared the 1080p and 1800p screens I can say I much prefer the matt 1080p, the touch screen is so glossy! In a dark room it is nice, but as soon as you get in a light environment it is a pain. Also windows scaling so still terrible, if apple can get it right why can't MS

 

I repasted my i7 5500, temperature seems to be okay

Sent from my LG-X145 using Tapatalk

 

Did it make any difference from stock temps?

 

Does anyone know what adapter I need to output to my 144Hz external monitor?

Mini-DP to DVI? They seem to be limited to 60Hz. HDMI doesn't support 144Hz, either.

 

I don't think the Intel HD Graphics can do 144 Hz. At least for my monitor as I would need a Dual Link DVI, which the iGPU does not support.

 

Oh. Well, that's unfortunate.

On a happier note, I've upgraded the memory and the laptop is much more responsive and has improved battery life:

Spoiler: click to see

 

What RAM did you get?
On a side note, I found something disturbing. The 13 R1 doesn't may not play nice with other Dell chargers. If you use one for, say, the m15x, Turbo Boost will be disabled on a BIOS level (Thorttlestop at least can circumvent that). Hopefully me m14xR2 charger doesn't respond the same, but I fear it will.
So much for 20 extra watts that could be used for overclocking my GPU. Then again, I don't know if I'm exhausting my 130w or not with my overclocked GTX 860m.
EDIT: Well my m14xR2 charger plays nice with my 13, so I guess my m15x charger is withering away. Another electronic flailing. But it is something to keep in mind in case Turbo never works for any of you.

 

I have tested the 13r1 with the following chargers:
240w - perfect
150w - perfect
120w - perfect
90w - Brings up a system warning on boot but still works fine (including turbo boost, but I would be careful to monitor power, my i5 even on full load only hits about 60-70w)

 

I've had mixed results with chargers, I was going to post something comparing them all if I ever get around to it. I was looking for a super small one to carry in the sleeve pocket with a slim mouse. The 90W fits the bill so far, I'll see how long it lasts but the 13 pulls less than 90W even overclocked according to all my testing.

330W - worked great and runs super cool obviously
120W - super slim charger off amazon, runs, but mixed results, benchmarks show good but in games the FPS drops to teens for no reason
90W - super slim from walmart, works great, even overclocked, does get warm though as expected

 

Those slim chargers, are they from Delta Electronics or Flextronics? Or neither? Usually, the brand of the charger matters for performance and charging.

Figures it was my m15x charger. I knew something was odd before I tested with my m14xR2 charger (both are 150w).

 

I'm not sure on either . The 90W is an iGo 90W Model 6630096-0100 B. I can't find out much about it online. The pictures on Amazon look similar to mine but not exact.

The 100W is a http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QTEV22. I don't have it with me so I can't get more info right now.

I was more hopeful for the 100W one, thinking it would run better/cooler and last longer. It is not as wide and more rounded for my sleeve pocket, but is longer and thicker too. Unfortunately I can't get it to work in games consistently and I don't want to damage the laptop or battery. It does look and feel high quality though.

**edit**
First two pictures are the sleeve with power adapter and mouse in it. Third picture is the 330w supply, the 4rth is the 90W supply that works great (so far). Lastly are some short (1ft) plugs for both the stock adapter and the 90W one, which helps make them even smaller to carry around.

 

Kingston HyperX Impact 1866Mhz.

 

I'm still having a mediocre experience running Windows 10 the R1 version of this laptop. Anyone else? Seems the issue always starts to occur when the wireless driver/card loses connection. The other day, my wireless connection completely dropped and the laptop was rendered unusable. I had to hold down the power button to turn the system off. However, once the system powered back on, everything worked fine. I tried out Star Wars Battlefront on it and had no issues. And I'm going to go out on a limb and say it is a software issue. I never had this kind of issue while running Windows 8.1, but I do not want to have to downgrade back to Windows 8.1 just to get a reliable and stable system

I think there was 2 other people in this thread that were having similar issues with the wireless card/driver.

 

Most likely, the 120w charger you have is not Alienware-friendly. If you can, return it. I'm surprised the 90w charger works well for you, though.
Well I'm experiencing something new. Turbo is still deactivated with my m14xR2 charger, but when disconnecting it and reconnecting it, Turbo reactivates. I assume my m15x charger is fine, then. Will test with my original charger.
EDIT: Seems like my problem stems from the latest beta of ThrottleStop rather than the chargers. Every time I open it, Turbo deactivates, even if I'm only using it to monitor data. However, if I never open it, then things are fine.
EDIT 2: And the problem was that I changed something that I shouldn't have (Non-Turbo Ratio). Oops, but after fixing that, Turbo is back in action without a re-plug.

I'm in an area where Wifi drops for whatever wifi card (Intel, Killer, and some brand in my HP laptop that doesn't sound remarkable) and OS (7, 8.1, and 10) I have, so I can't really say if I have problems or not. Works fine for me, and I haven't had serious problems with Win10. DIdn't do a clean install, but I got as close to "clean" as I could.
I just use the generic drivers on Killer's website (not the suite one).

 

I have been running win 10 with no disconnects at all. Clean install and the stock one, both I was using the wireless drivers from Alienware (I did not load the Killer software suite on this last clean install though).

I have had problem with disconnects in the past but they were always with Intel AC cards, and on Win 8.1 because this was a while ago.

I have been surprised by the 90W one too, but who knows, in a few months it could burn out. It's not meant to be my daily power brick, just an emergency one if I forget the stock brick in my backpack, or if I'm going super lightweight and only taking the sleeve with me for a day. I have been testing it while gaming to make sure it works if I do want to game on it occasionally when I want to.