*OFFICIAL* Alienware Area-51M R1 Owner's Lounge

Btw, what are expected / ok maxtemps for the cpu? Not trying to start a thread of overheating issues (I don't think I have them), but my 9770k cpu runs a lot hotter than my gpu while gaming. Hitting low 90's max (don't think it is sustained -- using HWMonitor in the background and looking at its MAX thermal values... gpu stays under 70 interestingly)... evaluating while playing Anthem which seems to be pretty cpu intensive.

I mean, it's not going to throttle if I hit a max of 93 / 94c is it?

 

Can you try 2x 180w? (You still have your AW 13?)

 

Does anybody has experienced how efficient this machine cools the i9 9900k, without undervolting, just in base settings?

 

Hi!

I just wanted to say, that while this may be unique to thin laptops - undervolting my MSI gs65 actually gave me pretty significant gains if I would be gaming for more than 20 minutes. I don't know if you would see similar results in a laptop like the A51m that likely has much better cooling.

 

Admittedly I’ve repasted my machine with Noctua nt-h2 but my (Alienware CC) oc’ed 4.9ghz with -100mv UV 9700k stays around 65C under heavy sustained load on balanced fan profile.

 

I'm honestly amazed at the benchmarks people are posting. They're performing right on par (and sometimes better) as my desktop 9900k/2080 setup. While my 17r4 has been great, I must admit I'm considering an upgrade.

Question about overall size. How does it compare to a 17r4/r5? I travel a lot and have the Vindicator backpack to tote my laptop around in. I'm assuming it'll fit in there too?

 

Wow, that’s excellent. I hope I’m that lucky.

 

You mean the 9700k?
Are you using Alienware Command Center?

If so try these settings and let me know your temps.


I also would suggest using Performance fan profiles.
I'm getting around 65C while gaming with stock paste @ 5.0GHz overclock and +150/200 Gpu overclock.

 

Quite a bit smaller overall. I also have a 15 r4 and the 51M is just barely larger.

 

Awesome... I have not been undervolting... so -100v seems pretty stable? Seems like even on stock factory paste that could help a good bit.

Yes, using CC, no OC'ing profiel active, have used both performance and full speed fan settings. (And yes, I meant 9700k, sorry for the typo).

 

I may also be doing a windows reinstall / update today... lol, the alienware mobile connect app is driving me insane. They updated it, but it leaves an artifact of the old version in the start menu (and actually it's still installed)... since it's a UWP app, the store shows only the newer version installed, and I can't remove the old one. Have tried lots of powershell tricks, but can't get rid of the damn thing. I actually like mobile connect... just getting OCD that I can't keep my brand new system "clean" of artifacts like that. ; )

 

I wanted to add an update to my issue. The crashing stops when I disable my laptop monitor using Win+P keys. So when I only use my external 4K monitor, Dx12 is enabled and g-sync also. The game doesn't crash.
So the criteria for the game to crash is now to have it running on:
DX12 + g-sync enabled + Having both the laptop and external monitor enabled at the same time.

Then I have the game huge lag/crash immediately after the game starts for DMC5 and Metro Exodus.

Weird issue.

 

the display in AW area 51m is 30pin edp B173HAN04.2, which is 60hz model i am not sure about the 144hz model. Would love if anyone can conferm the model about the 144hz version and the display connection. The 4k ver of AW 17 r4 have 40 pin connection and 2-3 mm larger then AW area 51m

 

This is working well for me... might go up as I get into a longer session... about an hour on it and I didn't see higher than 85C max for the cpu package (no core went above 80C). This was with the performance profile, which is less noisy than the "full speed" as well.

Hopefully this will work a little nicer. Thanks!

 

Regarding the sleep while on battery issue...

Further investigation is revealing a "watchdog" error in event viewer, so it's actually blue screening when it goes to sleep... I still have the original drive untouched... Do I popped it back in same thing... It's intermittently blue screening when it goes to sleep... I think I have no choice I'll be sending it back... Not going to take a chance...

 

Mine works fine at x4 and 8.0GT/s. I'm getting good speeds on my RTX 2080ti in my AGA.

 

Try Dism++.

 

Awesome, thanks so much for responding!

My AGA looks the same as yours in HWinfo and GPU-Z. It reports as being a 4x link, but in CUDA-Z, the actual interface speeds are significantly worse. My attached screenshot from the built in RTX2070 looks normal, but the GTX 1080 in the AGA is performing at 2x or worse bitrate.

Two questions for you:
1. Does a 3dmark or similar benchmark with your 2080ti score as expected? This 1080 I am currently experimenting with is about 15-20% lower than expected.

2. Do you mind running CUDA-Z (no install required, easy to use like GPU-Z) and look on the "Performance" tab with your 2080ti selected at the bottom and report the link speeds? If you are okay trying this for me, the link to CUDA-Z can be found here: http://cuda-z.sourceforge.net/

I don't have a Touring card to experiment with, so this would be incredibly helpful. I'm seeing this problem with this 1080fe and a Titan-V.

 

My integrated 2070 looks the same as yours.
My 2080 ti in the AGA looks much better than your 1080, getting about half the speed on the memory copy, as expected, since the AGA is x4 vs the 2070 at x8.

I do have a GTX 1080 I can try in the AGA later and see what it looks like.

And to answer your other question, my 3dmark scores appear to be good. I posted some results in this thread.

 

Hey, hey, hey! Someone has the right idea! here is a link to a MUST NEED TOOL! Fujifilm-Prescale-Sample-Pressure-Indicating via amazon for cheap! ($8 vs $400)

 

You need to connect external screen HDMI or DP or Type C to get full performance of the card in AGA.
What's the baseline result you're expecting from CUDA-z?

 

Fantastic, this is super helpful. It might be something goofy from mixing Touring with Pascal/Volta I suppose.

If you have a moment to try the 1080, I would be curious to see if you get the same result. I would also love to know the approach you took to installing drivers. Before connecting the AGA I have been rebooting into safe mode, using DDU to wipe everything, shutting down and connecting the AGA, and then reinstalling drivers.

I have a 144hz, 32" 1440p display connected to the AGA and have been disabling the internal display. CUDA-Z should be closer to 3000 MiB/s and full duplex like @tobyg which is near the practical limit of a PCIe 3.0 4x connection in the AWA. The imbalance between my host to device scores and device to host scores have me puzzled.

 

Bogus temp, ignore.

 

I mean you said ACC oc profiles put 3 bin lower clocks on all cores. Only 5.0GHz clock speed up to 6 cores. Or you can finally put real 5.0GHz OC with the app? This due the performance fan profile?

 

Have you tried older drivers esp. day 1 RTX driver?

 

Thanks for the update! This makes me feel better, I wouldn’t be using both screens when hooked up to my external monitor.

 

Yeah, but still weird. I wonder if there is someone else with the same issue.
I somehow think, that this is related to the fact that there are 2 different type of g-sync monitors on one system with different refresh rates. not sure though.

 

Okay will try ATTO soon. I have it to RAID, but from what I heard it shouldn't matter since this is a NVMe drive. Even in BIOS it shows as NVMe not RAID or AHCI. I do have it set to RAID still, I might have to try the trick to switch to AHCI.

Magician also doesn't see the drive properly.

I did wait til the end. Looks like it might be the stupid RAID issue which is unfortunate.

Sorry you two but I have owned Clevo P870DM3, P870DM, P570WM, all which are desktop replacements and they ran what the power supply allowed. AW should really fix this as this is stupid. 90% of Area-51M for gaming purposes should work fine with a single 330w AC adapter. This is clearly an artificial limit and I won't stand for this.

We should be fighting these limits not supporting them.....just like the 2400mhz limit that was supposed to be "fixed" with an update...

I have an AGA but no GPU LOL

Smart idea, will try in a bit

Ummmm......what?

 

has anyone tried swapping out the 180W for a 240W. Is it worth it to even try?

 

There is no shortcut, switching from RAID to AHCI via that reg tweak is not the same as doing a clean install. You will want to format and install in AHCI and install the Samsung NVMe driver to get the best performance. Period.

 

Question, I've switched to AHCI but the Adata SSD Tool still only picks up my MX500.

Is there any way to get it to read my SX8200 Pro? I would prefer to run the Adata firmware on it, as speeds in crystaldiskmark aren't great.

 

what do you mean you *switched* to AHCI? via the reg tweak or a full reinstall with AHCI mode selected in the BIOS?

 

Sorry if asked before (on other threads), but do you guys know if "Power management mode" under Manage 3D settigns from the nvidia control panel causes any difference?
Currently it's on what is the recommended for laptops, which is, Optimal Power.
What kind of effect does changing it to "Prefer Maximum Performance" have?

Anyone who happens to know?

 

First time poster long time lurker, I returned my area51 (9700k 2070) because of the two power brick thing. I have tried the 330w, 240w and 180w (as a single power source), all 3 have the exact same drop in performance regardless of the size of the brick, for fun I even plugged in an old hp brick that was 65w ( and yes it fit and detected the brick)and it unlock full power.. I bought a ge75 but returned it because it was a hot mess. I do want to reorder an area 51 but want to know if anyone can figure out how to make it work full power on one brick.

 

Optimal Power means when there is no draw on the screen, the GPU clock speeds is set 0 MHz to save power and then ramps up once it needs to. Sounds great on paper, works like crap. This is the number one reason why anyone might experience crappy performance from their nVIDIA GPU. What's worse, is that's the default setting in the nVIDIA Control Panel after you install a new driver often leading people to blame the driver for bad performance when it's just the fault of nVIDIA's clowns.

Set the power management to Adaptive which puts the GPU at lower clock speeds when no GPU intensive apps are in use and it would ramp the clocks up when needed. That actually works. It's the best balance between getting lower heat from the GPU and good performance in games.

When benchmarking, for the optimal results, it's best to set the power management to High Performance.

Mind you, after you change the power management to whatever you set it to, a reboot is mandatory for the new clocks to take effect.

Classical nVIDIA Swiss Cheese

 

It can't! You need to give it enough juice to power all the beastly components in it. Single power brick is only for surfing the net/watching YouTube.

If you want a laptop which runs well with a single power brick, consider other models.

 

Imo it should perform at full speed no matter what charger is plugged in. It should just charge slower

 

Hello everyone.

I have been eyeing the Area 51m with a RTX 2070 coupled with a 8700/9700K processor.

I currently own a Razer Blade 15 RTX 2060 8750H laptop. I am returning it soon due to the fact that I am getting 100 deg temps in my CPU while playing 10 min of Destiny 2 and WoW. Neither games are demanding and this laptop is only 2 days old with such high temps! It is all stock btw, no tinkering.

Not to mention the palm rest is warm/hot. Due to the metal chasis sure but its quite uncomfortable if you game for hours on the machine.

I was hoping the Area 51m has better thermals seeing that it is bigger, bulkier and has better cooling components.

I have read 192 pages of this thread so far and have almost exhausted myself tbh. Could someone kindly give me the low down on this machine as far as CPU temps, temperature on the palm rest, screen quality, fan noise, and build quality.

I am looking for a laptop to last me 3-5 years. (My alienware 15 R1 is 5 years old and still plays games on medium settings with that 970m despite the battery having critical failure and requiring AC power to even turn on now).

I just cant see that Razer lasting me 5 years if its already 100 deg on day 2 stock.

Thank you all!

 

Think what you want to think but the facts remain. This is not a cell phone! a single charger cannot give enough juice to the big screen, keyboard lights, beastly desktop class GPU and high end CPU.

All desktop replacement laptops need two chargers, Clevo P870DM, MSI GT73, GT75, GT83, etc.

 

you will need to repaste it with some good liquid metal like Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut and might need to undervolt it by -80mV to -100mV. The stock thermal paste from any company always sucks.

 

My current Blade or the 51m?

 

ANY laptop needs that treatment bro. Even if it is not overheating, temps will only get better with a proper repaste with better thermal paste if you're comfortable doing that. Many YouTube videos out there it's easy.

 

Any high performance computer ever, seriously. I don't use anything other than liquid metal, it just works amazingly well. I liquid metal and undervolted my blade which has 7700HQ + GTX 1060, it never breaks 70 C even under extended full gaming load. It works amazingly well.

 

Full reinstall. Thought it would work after that, but it doesnt. Am I just SOL?

 

Does your SSD have an NVMe Driver from the manufacturer? If it does and you haven't installed it that would be the reason why the software is not recognizing it. I would also email their tech support they should get you sorted.

 

Hwinfo reports a bogus temperature on disk drives "sensor 2" or something. Try to verify with Crystalinfo or with any other monitoring application.

 

I’m gonna repaste with thermal grizzly K, but liquid metal scares the piss out of me. What about your warranty?!

 

I wouldn't be throwing around liquid metal as an alternative without people knowing the potential damage it can inflict. If the liquid metal gets off the cpu or you use an aluminum heatsink it can destroy your machine. Liquid metal can also move around which makes it a danger for laptops (If you apply it wrongly or apply to much tbqh)

Now it's not that dangerous if you apply it properly, but it's not something I would go around suggesting every noob apply it. A better thermal compound then the garbage dell uses would also be a good step forward

For me I use Noctua NT-H1 on my systems. My gaming rigs 8700k is overclocked to 5.0 ghz and never gets above 40c (Although that might have more to do with the case and the fact I use 17 fans)

My threadripper build runs at 4.1ghz and never gets much higher then 40 something c. Now 4.1ghz may not sound like much from 3.5ghz, but threadripper 1st gen was never easy to overclock and this is a micro atx build (With tons of fans and an oversized radiator and reservoir which keeps it cool....)

Although tbh, I may use liquid metal for the area 51m....

 

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is the WORST thermal paste out there! Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut is the best

See:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/thermal-grizzly-kryonaut.790919/page-10#post-10261106

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...s-before-i-start.741745/page-65#post-10249996

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...iquid-metal-paste.812596/page-2#post-10660500

 

1 PSU will throttle GPU to 900MHZ, and half the Memory clock.

For a RTX 2080, this is equivalent to about a GTX 1060 Max Q in performance.

You should be able to play modern games in Medium to High depending on game

No, not at all true. This machine needs a firmware update to fix this problem. No reason to throttle the GPU by 50% with a single 330W adapter. 25% would have worked fine.

The 2 smaller Clevo LGA DTRs both run a single 330W adaper and 150W of GPU fine (the 25% throttle I mentioned above essentially)

And if you have a RTX 2070, you should not need 2 adapters at all