*OFFICIAL* Alienware Area-51M R1 Owner's Lounge

Hey Team, few months-long lurker here also OG Alienware dude, as I purchased one after working a telemarketing sales job all summer my Junior year of high school almost 20 years ago!

Just got the new Area 51M and been absolutely loving it. Like absolutely loved this thing.

Took it out in a few meetings and no one even wanted to talk about anything else for a good 10-15 minutes, it truly looks like the Lambo of laptops. Awesome right well it just died on me lol... Jesus Christ.

I’m getting 1 blue light blinking, followed by 2 red lights... got on the phone with an overly confident Indian man whose sole advice was basically holding the power button down (didn’t do anything).

I did find out because I’m a ‘Commercial Customer’ supposedly I can get next business day tech support on-site.

My real question is... should I return this sucker (less than 30 days) and go back to my sad but dependable Macbook Pro life or is it worth it to go thru the crap I’ve read some of you guys have had to sadly go thru???? The gentleman on the phone said it’s likely the CPU, I got the 9700K with the 2080 and barely used it.

Ironically I hadn’t turned it on for 2 days prior to this happening so not sure how it even happened.

 

This paste is VERY thick and any other method except spread will give you trouble. Talking from experience here.

You should return it and get a new machine. Usually they ship the new one first before picking up the old unit so you should have plenty of time to play around with both of them and cherry-pick the parts from both to your liking and make one solid behemoth out of it before returning it. I'd wait for the new system, compare motherboards, CPUs and GPUs (depends upon what died) and retain the best possible specs + the more perfect screen out of the two.
P.S., the weakest part of this laptop are the 2 ribbon connectors that connect DGFF gpu board to the motherboard. They have REALLY tiny and fragile pins and if you are not careful with it, you might end up with something that you experienced and some other annoyances like GPU running in lower than x8 PCIe configuration with reduced performance. So, pay attention when opening and closing those connectors. They should not rub against anything and there shouldn't be a single dirt particle / hair where they are about to be fastened to. I wish Dell revises this connector with a better version in the next iteration of this machine (something similar to what we have on the audio daughter board that connects it to the motherboard).

 

Good to know, thanks!

I called my local Dell about ordering one heatsink (the screw I can basically get anywhere) and they said they couldn't sell it to me, but they could send one for free. Heh. How about that? ;-)

 

Thank you!

 

Can you downgrade back to 1.5.0 by simply running the exe?

 

Yes, it's a simple downgrade.

Make sure you go to the BIOS after the downgrade and disable "UEFI firmware upgrade" setting, it'll prevent automatic BIOS upgrade through Windows 10 updates.
I would also disable that feature through ShutUP 10 just to be extra cautious.

Sent from a Galaxy S9+

 

I ordered a 9700k/2070 on the 13th which was due to arrive today but it's been delayed a week and a day. Is it worth contacting Dell about delays? I'm getting worried they might delay further or cancel after reading earlier in this thread and I'm moving country soon. So might just try to buy something else like an Aero or a Blade from a reseller

 

Yeah, no problems with this. On a side note, are there any key combo to enter the UEFI bios directly from boot, or do I have go through Win10?

 

Tap f12 continually when you turn it on.

 

Mash F2 at startup and you'll land in bios. F12 is for boot menu.

 

Thanks! Do you know if it's F2 or FN+F2? I guess I'll just try, but I'm not at home for the moment.

 

Just F2.

 

f12 gives you bios option also.. Either one works fine.

 

currently equipped w/ 4tb 860 pro. no issues. only have issues with my 960 pro ironically. will be swapping to a 970 pro soon. will post results.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/posts/10918357/

LOL 960 pro SSD has gotten much worse.

 

https://www.3dmark.com/fs/19316903

I'm saying how did someone get this w/ these great high scores in each category?

 

Well, Linus did do a video on how to hook up chillers to the 51m...

 

I thought the heat blocks (the part touching CPU and GPU) are all copper?

HIDEvolution is not supposed to offer liquid metal between CPU and heatsink on socketed hardware. Only regular paste (Kryonaut, Gelid, etc).
LM configuration is only for CPU BGA and for GPU dies and for delids (CPU Die under the IHS).

LM can be done between IHS and heatsink but this requires far more preparation work than normal, and only gives like a 3-4C drop compared to Kryonaut on a *high end* air cooler--you not only need some sort of barrier to stop LM from getting on the motherboard (sliding off the heatsink side of the application) but you ALSO need to have the socket itself fully covered and insulated (Kneaded eraser works best here and can take the place of a foam dam).

I admittedly have LM on my IHS between heatsink on my 9900K but I am using *both* a foam dam and 4 intersecting layers of Super 33+ tape to block the entire socket. And because I'm too cheap to buy a rockit direct die mount.

For BGA vomit, you can use simple conformal coating (or super 33+ tape) and a thin cutout trimmed foam dam (kneaded eraser is too thick for BGA direct die spacing).

 

Installing a fresh copy of windows... Should I get the OEM Dell ISO from the recovery tool or should I do what I usually do and use the Windows 10 Installer Creation Tool and then install all drivers separately? @Ultra Male

 

Ahh yes that's true, i remember that vid

 

I have the direct dye mount lying around which I have never used because of the simple fact that the heat sink will need some grinding sound the edges otherwise it won't seat on the dye. The power components around the cpu need to be recessed a bit further down or the heat sink grinded on those contact points for the direct dye to work here. Plus you'll have to ensure that the heat sink does sit flat (chances are that it won't anymore). It's not worth opening such a big can of worms.

 

Any happy current Linux users here? May be time to leave Windows... I'm thinking after reading lots and seeing some neat vids.

 

Read previous posts. Use the search feature.

 

Thanks, looked on google how to search within this thread, big help now

 

I was shocked to find the screws there. I couldn't find the stock heatsink (Thermal cover is all it really is) anywhere. However I found this nice double sided, actual heatsink that keeps my 970 EVO Plus NVMe nice and cool. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Y5DZ4N/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was hitting 95C+ when installing large steam games and now it only hits 60C tops. Only works in the bay farthest from the front. The front bay I'm not using anything because of head room, but just has a 860 EVO SATA there and it stays cool enough.

I'm a happy Linux user but NOT on this machine yet. There are some people a few pages back who have had success on the 51m, but not me. The only live distro I can boot into is Manjaro, but no Internet access.

 

Just use the Windows Image. I've had bad experiences with dells image.

 

Has anyone ever used Sata to m.2 adapter in their laptops? I have m.2 laying around I would like to use.

 

There's a search box on the top right corner of NBR. You can check off "Search this thread only"

 

Thinking about getting the lowest end config and upgrading as I go. Has any one changed out the screen. Is it easy to do?

 

Seems like the mini m.2 threaded insert in ssd1 slot sticks out too much? Bending the drive when fastened down?


Could this be damaging the drives, absorbing heat and preventing the heatsinks from doing their jobs?

 

Yes and no. It's easy to change out the whole assembly if was switching from one A51M to another. (i.e. during a replacement or something).
Changing the actual LCD inside the lid assembly is a bit trickier and will disturb some adhesive. It's not impossible by any means but I would say it probably is on the more difficult side of DIY upgrades.
I personally went with the lower end config when it came to cpu / ram etc but made a point to get the LCD as its easier and I didn't want my lid disturbed.

 

Yea I had to change the lcd on my Asus taichi (it has stylus, I'm semi artist) and I broke the first LCD I got attempting to replace. I seen something a few hundread posts back about screen replacement so I thought I'd ask.

 

Anyone else have random kb keys switch to purple after boot/wake?

 

So I am wondering how everyone is running their CPU under-volt for gaming and everyday. I have just finishing up with days of gaming and cpu benchmark's. Everyday and GPU dependent games I am on a 4.5ghz at -155 undervolt max stress test temps are 75c with a full gpu load or 66c with not gpu load. Quickest setting is 4.8ghz at -145 undervolt with 78-80c under stress with gpu and 75-78c without gpu load. Wondering what you guys are getting currently and if you think mine are solid. Yes I have tried 5ghz and it will hit 89-92c under stress with -115mv. So to be honest I am pretty happy.

 

So I just bought an alienware area 51m dirt cheap from my supplier (£1170 in total). The laptop seems to be missing the battery cable but not the battery.

Can anyone provide the serial tag for it so I can order it straight away @ssj92 Thanks!

 

Could someone share an MSI afterburner profile for the rtx2080 model?

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qnbu48qgHEnYSaba7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fPi6X6LD4rvNG2bg7

Threads for the screw that holds in the left speaker were improperly made. The entire thing is shorn which was causing the speaker to fizz.

Drive look bent?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/G2i52Fn8X7hzomSSA
Standoff behind the drive 1 slot bending ssd causing heat and performance issues
@Ultra Male @hmscott

 

Drive looks good. It's probably just the heat sink which is bent. Try straightening it out and re-installing.

 

Drive looks bent too, though a bit less than the heatsink... On the drive I pulled out (960 pro), the standoff actually made a decent indent in the rear label, cutting into it.
@hmscott

 

Which drive is it? Did it come stock from Dell? A drive shouldn't look angled considering how low the reverse pressure is that the socket exerts on it against the mounting screw.

 

960 pro. Now a 970 pro. Both exhibit the same problem

 

Weird. I have both of them in my machine and they are straight as a ruler.

 

That's my score. Nothing special was done, just max fans. There's even higher scores than this on this laptop. I think @iunlock has 31k GPU score and overall is 26k.

Hmm I looked through my order and only found the battery number KJYFY

Do you have the service tag of the laptop? You should be able to call or chat dell with service tag to order specific parts.

I'll have to open up my laptop to see if the cable has any part numbers on it.

 

Would removing the label(s) give enough "headroom" to allow it to clear the SSD, or at least reduce the bending pressure? Removing the label on the heatsink mating side would help thermal transfer too - direct contact with the chips / heatsink.

Have others noticed this standoff on that Area 51m m.2 slot bending their SSD??

The GT75 has a large single heatsink block that covers 3 of the 5 M.2 SSD slots, and with 1 Corsair MP510 2TB in the center slot it only peaks at 41c under heavy load, and idle / normal is around 33c:

The MP510 touches a heatsink so I removed the labels as well. The Samsung is standing off on it's own without a heatsink on one of the 2 M.2 slots not under the heatsink block. There's a lot of air space there for the Samsung drive to remain cool.

 

As I said above, this is not a problem with any of my machines so far and I have a lot of these SSDs in multiple machines. This could very well be a bent SSD itself (I am still baffled because this has never happened to any of my devices, even those without heat sinks). And I keep my stickers on. No dead drives in 3 years ever since I upgraded my machines to NVMe.

 

The standoff impinging on the SSD is specific to the Area 51m and probably just that particular socket / slot, it might even be specific to @mason2smart 's unit, that's why I asked if anyone else has seen this on their Area 51m.

 

I have seen these SSD's on 3 machines so far (besides my own), 1 carrying Samsung NVMe drive and other 2 carrying intel ones and all of them were very flat. This could also result from over-tightening of the holding screw as when overtightened, the screw pressure makes the SSD PCB drift aside which results in a bend. I have seen that happen before.

Edit: Typo

 

Is there more than one m.2 slot where this can occur? Do all of them have a half M.2 standoff that could impinge on the SSD? It might be doing it to an extent that hasn't bent the SSD / heatsink yet, but is touching. It might be worth a look.

 

It is more likely to happen on slot 1 (the one beside the wifi card) because of the metal stand off. The one beside the battery seems to be a bit more forgiving to overtightening but it shouldn't be overtightened no matter what. Just use thread locker and snug it up. No need to crank it in because screw pressure tends to displace the motherboard (SSD's main circuit board) towards the side if it is excessive. It could also warp it to an extent that the ssd board itself could get warped or the M.2 socket could pop loose overtime which would be no good.

 

I agree with you mate, I did see a 7C change in my Crucial P1 1TB boot drive just by removing those damn stickers and cleaning the chips underneath but may be we're in the minority here...

In something unrelated to Area 51m, I saw this guy's video and thought to myself, if he can do this with such limited hardware, why the hell are we the owners of a completely serviceable and an "upgradeable" system so afraid to experiment with it...?!?!?! If something goes wrong, use the freaking warranty and get the system replaced!

Watch this, its incredible:



Sent from a Galaxy S9+