Strange PCH behaviour and PHC mod doesn't help

Ok so I've had trouble dealing with PCH overheating issue for 2 weeks. I bought this 7820hk + 1080 model 4 months ago. Changed the motherboard once cuz the GPU was malfunctioning. Had played with it for 2 months without issues.

But

Now PCH temp is insanely high - idle at 63c and goes up to 91c at which the CPU starts throttle to 800Mhz. This is AFTER I put an aluminum heatsink over the PCH, with kryonaut. Other components' temps are ok, I manaully set CPU running at stock speed (2.9 Ghz), no undervoting.

Another problem with the PCH is sometimes CPU throttles when PCH reaches 86c, sometimes 91.5c, sometimes 88c. What is this little bastard thinking?

I see some here got very decent PCH temps with mods on it, like below 75c or at most 80c, how did you guys manage to achieve that?

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1tOls8ynTHg2dLGo8c64Jskzzgnqz92u9

Also the SSD temp is quit high

 

That’s got to be a faulty sensor or a misreading for the SSD temp. Were you hitting the drive hard for benchmarks or something? Also what drive model and size is that?


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@Goblinrr

Hi, I had over 90C on PCH during gaming without any PCH cooling, and also throttling. One way to try to fix this would be that you turn off BD Prochot in Throttlestop so too high PCH temperature 'should' not throttle CPU to 800 MHz.

I never tried putting heat-sink on PCH, only bridge-connected PCH to heat-pipes using PGS tape.

After I read the forum thread below, I realised that as there is no air flow inside the chassis, and heat from PCH must get out of chassis and the only viable way for me seemed PGS mod (graphene tape).

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ld-you-cool-your-pch-with-mods.805032/page-11

I have used Panasonic EYG-A121801V and did the mod + pictures. Check posts #6655 and #6656 below.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-alienware-13-r3-owners-lounge.797884/page-666

I have had this mod for a year and never seen PCH go max. 5 C above temperatures of my CPU or GPU, which are both max. at 70C now after applying Liquid Metal and re-pad with Gelid pads and undervolt.
So basically now whatever I do my PCH does not break 75C and the heat gets out of the chassis.

Regarding your SSD, check post #6988 for a cheap and effective mod. where again, heat gets out of chassis through back plate. I never see over 50C on SSD.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...3-owners-lounge.797884/page-699#post-10691615

 

High ssd temp follow often high PCH temp as hand in glove. Not sure of the NVMe ssd size and brand you have. But could you run ATTO Disk Benchmark 4 times in a row (Just click start again right after each run is finished). Then post pict of test results and ssd and PCH temps reading from Hwinfo. Then do the same test runs with Crystal DiskMark. Thanks

 

It's a 256GB SK Hynix NVMe. I don't use any benchmark tools, I only test the system with games..

I agree with you, the SSD is probably faulty from my observation. I am thinking about how to convince dell to get it replaced after I fixed the PCH.

 

Just showing support team those temps should do the trick. M
I Don’t believe the drive is technically faulty just the sensor. But might as well get it replaced


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YES!!! When I did the PCH mod I alse questioned myself how to connect the PCH to the fan cooled heat pipes so it gets cooled like CPU and GPU. Never came up with an idea but yours seems good. I will definitely try it. Thanks!

 

Did it just now. This happened:

(First run)
-Started the benchmark when SSD is at 65c.
-Temp climbs to 80 quickly
-Displayed some results for I/O speed
-Suddenly the program freezed, mouse icon turned to blue circle when hovering over it, no more results
-SSD temp dropped to -273c, abs zero
-can't launch any programs, including snipping tool, so I took a pic with my phone
-windows crashed

I think at least it's good that the PCH temp is stable.

PIC: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1O77y-q8y9CavfkAN0EorFgGCF2ifankZ

 

Please take a look at post #9, it happend to me once before. I should call the support team on Monday....

 

Btw unticking BD Prochot doesn't solve this issue. It seems like the signal can't be blocked on my system. Tried it many times.

 

PCH temp would increase if the tests could be executed as explained.

 

I tried running this benchmark on HDD, everythings fine and the PCH temp is still stable.

 

Old spinning HDD’s doesn’t push rest of the hardware. The PCH chips works more like a Hub for the hardware.

 

Ok I got it. So the SSD is definitely going to replaced then. Thanks for your advice.

 

You're welcome.
Should be easy. If they start screw up. Just post link to your post #9 Good luck.

 

IN a small chassis, a heatsink can also act like an insulator if it blocks all airflow. It also depends on your ambient temps.

 

Hi I've ordered the same type as yours from farnell. Should be arrving in 2 days. Got some questions here, does the side with adhesive material faces down when applying it on heat pipes? Should I put any thermal paste in between? I am not worring about electric conductivity as I got plenty of conformal coating unused.

 

The PGS sheet has adhesive bottom side (the 150 C) protected by plastic sheet. You need to cut 4-5 same stripes as per my pictures, remove the protective plastic and stack the stripes on top of each other. Leave the protective plastic on, on the bottom stripe.

Remove heat sink, and stick the already stacked stripe to the middle part at the bottom of heat-sink which is facing motherboard (pipes should have no black coating there, BUT CLEAN IT GOOD, as this part sucks heat most). Then continue around the top and continue direction to PCH. On the part of tape between HS and PCH you should leave the protective plastic on.

There is no need for thermal paste, nor thermal pad. The best results I had sticking the end of tape straight to PCH.

Let me know if anything else ...

 

I can not take full credit for this. I followed example of these PGS explorers: @shadowyani and @LM64792

 

strange as it may sound.. ive been testing this same issue with BDPROC or NO BD PROC ON TS for almost 2 years.. with heatsinks, with open backcover, etc etc.. seems PCH only triggers mid 90s on some system and so on.. like @rinneh said, sometimes it can be a insulator if there is no airflow or a stupid hot ambient temp.. newer R4/R5 have bigger vents comparing old gen models.. and there are 2 sensors near RAM.. which using a temp gun i found out its closing to 98c.. also the RAM gets super toasty on my model.. use any 2mm ultra thin heatsink for pch only if ur using cooling pad, ur bottom needs to cooldown for the internal component to dissipate heat somewhere.. also BDPROC On TS does help until certain level.. ex.. when i turn off BDPROC on TS. i can make my PCH go upto 96c.. without any issues.. but this is without INTEL ME / Dynamic Platform Drives installed.. im testing RAM with heatsinks.. doesnt help.. cuz the airflow is too less.. but its better with CPU performance MODE where Fan RPM reaches 6300RPM vs 5200 on normal mode.. and overall cools other components, check ur RAM temps if it allows..

 

have any of you had the PCH temp aka temp 5 sensor fail to register in HWInfo or disappear after system sleep? Only comes back after reboot.

 

Yes its a bug, sadly DELL is not fixing it.. and they wont.. only solution is reboot.. then you will get the sensor temps back

 

Thanks man!! I managed to do this earlier today. Did lowered the temps, but the throttling is still there. There has to be another reason for throttling, not overheating, not PCH, not IDLE, not power supply.

Please take a look at this screenshot.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1u-wH4K839k320SwGNQFp_Q7qJPQWS-w1

 

Do you mean there's a RAM temp limit which causes CPU throttling?

 

try once without all those ME / DPTF drivers and disable BDPROC on Throttlestop. remember delete all those drivers manually and boot ur game without those.. Monitor OSD with MSI afterburner

 

could be, because so far, i managed to repaste / repad and add heatsink on other components and tried, and monitored all those VRM temperatures, nothing triggers BDPROC.. except may be PCH and RAM.. recent tests on PCH also showed it throttles only after 90c.. try runnning ur system without back cover.. and see if u get throttle. cool down the ram in passive way. initially i thought it could be some internal sensor fault on CPU, but ive seen so many cases on 4710HQ, 4720HQ,6700HQ, 7700HQ.. if cpu sensor fault they would have fixed it on each revision. only if the intel documentation shows how BDPROC works Unclewebb could have made TS more visible, saying which one is causing what.. kudos to him atleast we have TS..

 

You are welcome

List of Ideas: maybe try turning on speedshift in Throttlestop, disable BD prochot and press SAVE in main TS screen, untick C1E and speedstep and press SAVE, try to under-volt CPU and Cache (more) maybe you are hitting power limit, VRMs could be overheating, be it CPU or GPU = re-pad.

On my computer I had very similar isses and it was 1 stock GPU pad not making contact with VRMs (the very bottom one of GPU), but BD PROCHOT off + SAVE solved throttling to 800 MHZ, then I re-padded with Gelid pads (highly recommend). Then disabling C1E and setting SST to 64 got my processor running at full possible turbo in any game without any drops.

 

i just got my second set of GP extreme thermal pads 0.5, and 1mm today.. last time i used it was not so good, then i realize its just the mounting pressure which made it worse.. but i think its still really good comparing the other expensive ones like the phobya or the Fujipoly which costs twice..

 

@VICKYGAMEBOY

Here in The Netherlands Fujis or Alphacool cost MINIMUM 5x more than Gelids. Gelids are chill 10 EUR.

I just had a quick and possibly good idea = will try during my next re-pad with Gelid pads. If the ambient temperature is really high DURING assembly of heat-sink it might be easy to get good die vs. heat-sink contact right away (important for classic thermal paste).

WIth LM it takes a few hours for the pads to soften and 'give' using stress tests.

 

im not using LM tho.. sticking with Kryo and ICD.. Yeah i was thinking the same, heat it up then mount it back.. so the pads fit proper.. try and let me know how it goes.. im testing my alienware m11x r2 with windows 10 19H1 builds.. it seems anything after windows 1607 older hardware gets big impact specially on graphics side, due to the introduction of WDDM2.0 on creators update.. i went back to 1607 or even older 1511, GMA seems to run fine.. Sadly GT335M is DX10.1 based GPU.. i cant even play newer games, i mean just for testing purposes... Tried Warp method.. doesnt work.. next ill try the same with m14

 

Its time to ditch Windows 10 and use Xubuntu 18 or lighter on AW m11x.

 

i tried ubuntu 16 i gues, ok im gonna download xubuntu now... will check on my m11x, i have to burn using rufus and make MBR partition type.. will update some screen shots in some time..