Hello, first of all thanks to everyone who will help me find a new mouse.
i am looking for a mouse with medium size, i have used the microsoft arc mouse and i would like a longer and wider mouse.
The mouse has to wireless with ability to connect usb cable (in case the wireless ability will malfunction).
I prefer bluetooth because trancivers tend to stop working after a year or so with a laptop in my exprience, but if it is a great mouse i would not mind.
I care about(in order):
1. size.
2. response time.
3. ability to charge internal battery.
4. accouracy
I dont care about:
1. desighn
2. extra buttons.
i would use the mouse with my laptop who has 4thgen bluetooth technology if fyi ( i also have 5 usb ports so i dont mind a tranciver).
The budget is 70-130$
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I've always been happy with Logitech's mice. I currently have a pair of G500s mice as my daily drivers. I've tried others, from Razer to Cyborg and I always come back to my Logitechs.
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G602
Anything with a laser (like the guy above me owns) either have speed related accuracy variance or oversensitivity to dust and LOD (tl;dr sucks, imprecise). -
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They both have too many buttons that i will most likely press by accident. any other suggestions?
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Spartan@HIDevolution Company Representative
I recently got the Logitech G602, best mouse I have ever owned! super smooth and the battery lasts for months!
nightingale likes this. -
i actaully wanted to buy the razer ouroboros because of the great sizes costumization and the great buttons location but it had wireless dock which simply ruins for me the entire point of wireless...i can understand a charging dock but why they wont let us have a micro tranciver? looks like in this rate i will need to go for the arc mouse again or buy the ouroboros and use it solely as a wired mouse
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I would recommend the G602 but it is a gaming mouse lol.. I have this wireless mouse for my ultrabook lol : http://www.amazon.co.uk/TeckNet®-Wireless-Buttons-Adjustment-Levels-Grey/dp/B001DHECXA
It might be a bit too smallnightingale likes this. -
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It's not about abusing your mouse or not, it's the sensor.
A laser VCSEL will have 10% more speed related accuracy variance compared to optical (model A9500/A9800 DPI 5700/8200).
A laser PTE / doppler sensor will have jitter everytime you lift the mouse off the surface and is oversensitive to dust and moisture. Usually these sensors are colored green in the lens if you look at the bottom of it. -
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I would recommend SteelSeries Sensei Wireless for your usage scenario. It is not cheap, however with a little bit of luck you should be able to find it at a price fitting your budget.
EDIT:
It doesn't use Bluetooth and the transmitter is built into the base station, so the mouse is not really meant for use on the go. Great mouse otherwise.Last edited: May 16, 2015 -
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Take a look at Logitech MX Master, it's a bit big, but you might like it.
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For the OP: the variances we're discussing are small percentages of very small numbers. You don't have to worry about what any of it really means unless you're into serious competition or work where you need maximum precision. If that's the case the please let us know, but if you just need a good, reliable, general purpose mouse then I say you can't go wrong with Logitech's basic models. -
5% variance can be countered when it's constant, the problem with VCSEL is that the acceleration is random on every swipe either from 0-5%
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Why run into this kind of debate all the time.
People have very different tolerance levels of controller performance and therefore care about different things when it comes to purchase decisions. In this thread the only person relevant is OP and only OP's tolerance level should be considered. Either we try to gather that information or we don't care. There's no point arguing "I can't feel the difference, how can you" or "I can, and either should you". -
Not sure if requirement ' size' is aimed for a large or small mouse ... but had use for a very tiny bluetooth myself, so made a comparison (excuse the CODE tag, but font designation is broken atm):
Code:model·································width·length·height·volume· Gigabyte GM-M7770·····················53····80·····32·····136···· Razer Pro Click Mobile Notebook Mouse·51····97·····30·····149···· hama bamboo···························55····88·····33·····160···· TUMI Laser Mini Mouse·················58····89·····38·····198···· Logitech VX Nano······················61····98·····34·····203···· Razer Orochi··························67····99·····35·····233···· Samsung SMO-5500S·····················63····106····38·····254···· GE 98505······························152···203····51·····1573···
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The orochi was my first choice then i saw that it is probably too small for me (i dont have any stores with demos where i live so i cant say for sure). anyway id ont care about minimal precision as im not a pro gamer who needs to 100% exact precision, i am more about the utility of wirless mouse (on the go as i travel almost every day for 1.5 hours in a train), fit into my hand with claw grip, and all the other components i said in my first post. is there any mouse like the razer ouroboros only without the dock? that woyuld be my first choice.
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In my opinion, the perfect mobile mouse is the Logitech M705 Marathon Mouse ( link) I've bought countless numbers of these mice over the years, for the multiple people in my life for whom I give computer advice. It's small. It's inexpensive. The performance is more than enough for desktop productivity use, and more than "good enough" for mobile gaming.
Best of all, it never needs to be charged. Ever. It can run for 3 years on a pair of AA alkaline batteries. I actually put a single Lithium AA battery in my Logitech Marathon mice (the mouse can operate off of just one AA battery), because it gives the mouse a lighter center-balanced weight profile compared to 2x AA Alkaline batteries.
You simply cannot find a better mobile mouse. Sure, you can find other mice out there with better individual features like higher-DPI sensors, high USB polling rates, and programmable macros. But if you look closely, you actually sacrifice quite a bit to get those features (usually in the form of short battery life, and constantly needing to manage the re/charge cycle on your mouse). They might be great mice, but they are far inferior to the Logitech M705 at being a mobile mouse. -
What exactly is so bad about charging your mouse every month or so. You charge your phone every now and then anyway, don't you? Unless the mouse has no battery level indicator, one should never have anything to worry about.
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When was the last time you ever saw a mouse that charges once per month?
Gaming grade wireless mice need to be charged after 18-36 hours of use. Even non gaming grade wireless mice with rechargeable batteries last in the neighborhood of 3-7 days before they need charging.
Everyone is different, but that is a pain in the rear. Battery life like that means you will run into situations when your mouse dies on you. In the middle of a League of Legengs game. In the middle of a Counterstrike match. In the middle of a cuatomer-facing product demo over WebEx.
If any consumer product requires you to be that vigilant and compliant to maintain battery life, then it better give you something unbelievably beneficial in return for the hassle. -
Just purchased the Logitech G502 Proteus
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@kent1146
I use a wireless mouse from a small Chinese brand. The mode switch on this thing actually makes sense. In gaming mode it does die in about 24 hours, which is justified given the performance. But in eco mode there are no worries whatsoever. Last time I charged this mouse it was probably March. Still 2/5 remaining.
I must have got too used to the comfort of this device. Now I think about it, yes, most internationally available high performance wireless gaming mouses would die in less than 2 days and the mode switch won't make much difference even if there's is one.
Market segmentation sucks.
Rechargeable non-gaming wireless mouses should be able to last way more than 7 days. A quick Google search turns up a few options. For example Gigabyte offers this, which claims 3 months of battery life on a 2100mAh NiMH. -
If a mouse needs to be plugged into a dock that prevents you from using it, then yeah, that can be a pain. But as long as it can be used while charging, it isn't as big of a deal, unless you need to use it for like a week between charges.
Personally, I own a Logitech Performance Mouse MX that I bring back and forth between home and work everyday. There are smaller mice that might be easier to carry around, but I have big hands, and it is more comfortable for me than any other mouse I have tried. At home, I pretty much leave it plugged into the charger most of the time, since my computer is usually at my desk. At work, I use it on the battery, since I don't need another cord at my desk at work. So as long as a charge will get me through a day or two at work, it really isn't an inconvenience to plug it in at home. -
Spartan@HIDevolution Company Representative
The best mouse I ever owned / used is the Logitech G602 FTW
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I tried the Logitech M705 but didn't like the tracking.
So now I've got a Logitech M557 which I really like. It is also Bluetooth so I don't use up a USB port. -
i am thinking of buying the logitech mx master
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nightingale Notebook Evangelist
I would recommend the g602 as it is the mouse i am currently using as my daily driver. Granted its a gaming mouse, but gaming mouses dont necessarily mean they cant be used for things other than gaming.
The g602 is pretty ergonomic, comfortable to use if i had to criticize it for anything is that maybe its a tiny bit narrow but overall its a great mouse -
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Honestly always liked logitech mice. And have had several different, not really minding the fact that they have these small grooves and things that soak up dirt. Or how your fingers always end up slightly at an angle when you're most comfortable. And that the buttons give out and start to double-tap, or break somewhat eventually.
Then I randomly bought a Razer Orochi (combo wired/wireless), and that's.. when I switched. Not the kind of thing you'd play tournaments with, but it's still more stable and has better software and hardware than anything else you can get in that price-class. Also - possible to pick off the entire top and clean it, without worrying about destroying the rest of the mouse. Very neat product. Never cared for the other razer products, but the orochi ..which has.. 7 buttons, it seems, rather than eight, for whatever reason, but never mind.. that actually was pretty good. That is, if you don't plan on using most of the tiny buttons very oftenBut just the mouse - very good. Solid contacts and plugs, wire set you can tie someone's hands with. The lights can be turned off. Software easily customisable whether you prefer mouse acceleration or not. All matte black. Neat stuff.
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Try bridging the + and - pins of the USB cable, keep it like that for half a minute or so. With any luck its nv-ram relies on capacitors to retain data.
You can erase the 64k chip, but question is ' which chip?' and ' does it contain operating instructions besides plain settings?'. If you have a programmer then that second bit is irrelevant; extract data first and if it the erase killed it, go back to old data. Or ask manufacturer for the data, of course.karasahin likes this. -
How can I do the first thing you mentioned? Should I press Standart A USB's number 4 and number 1 pins at the same time? Or all of them?
What do I need? I know how to write C languages but I take this requires further knowledge. I asked manufacturer how to revert back to original settings but they didn't reply back to me.
I will be greatful if you can help further on this. Thanks again. -
Just take a paperclip or small wire and attach one end to + and the other to -. That'll close the circuit and (in theory) drain all capacitors on board.
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That won't do, here's a shorting pins 101 (paperclip method).
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What can we do about the second option? -
Ah, just noticed it's their own program (thought it was a third party app).
Hm, you still have access to its scripts, right? Can't find a ' default' on their site, but could simply create an empty .amc file and use that to overwrite both existing ones:
Code:<Root> <DefaultMacro> <Major></Major> <Description></Description> <Comment></Comment> <GUIOption></GUIOption> <KeyUp></KeyUp> <KeyDown></KeyDown> <Software></Software> </DefaultMacro> </Root>
karasahin likes this. -
Last edited: Jun 8, 2015
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Ok, well ... wiping the memory chip is possible, but that wouldn't bring back factory defaults either ( if these are on the chip too). There's no manual on their download page, but you should have one on the driver CD. Maybe that's of some use? Tried to download the program, but they're on a 300-baud modem ...
Not sure I understand the difference between macro/script in the context of this mouse, but what were the original settings? You would expect the stock version to be nothing more than an ordinary mouse, right? -
Main difference between macros and scripts for this mouse that scripts have DPI and most likely refresh rate settings and macros don't have neither. I don't know if these settings can be add to macros as well though.
I used to factory version's settings. I can't say it is an ordinary mouse. It had one-click changeable five DPI settings and it was good enough for me. It was offering smoothest experience from the very beginning. Now that feel disappeared. It is like how Harry Potter was feeling while using others' and not his wand (I know but you get it). I can't control the cursor than I used to. My friends who once admire this mice now admit that something's wrong about it. I wish I stored factory settings to somewhere before making something stupid thing like that but what's done is done. I can't remember what settings it had. I never bothered anyway because I had no problem either with smoothness or DPI settings with factory settings. I simply wanted to use macros but that app destroyed everything. I would have never used it if I knew that I couldn't go back to factory settings. I'm having a great regret that I did that
Last edited: Jun 8, 2015 -
Can you get a screenshot?
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Of the config interface in Oscar Mouse Editor. I'm wondering if something could be configured manually to bring back default behavior.
What erratic behavior are you experiencing after using that software? -
I believe it changed default DPI settings to its defaults and I can't use to it now. That smooth feel just vanished. I feel like using a new mouse but in a bad way. I can't control cursor of Windows than I used to. At first times, I accidentally closed Google Chrome lots of times by pressing X button when I actually wanted to press left button next to X. It is not that bad now but it is still far too away from being good. Besides changing DPI settings and refresh rate values, other things stay same like before.Last edited: Jun 9, 2015 -
Not showing in English is making it a bit difficult for me but nothing related to DPI looks strange. So do you feel the general response being faster than before or the sensitivity being about the same with reduced accuracy/stability?
The Oscar software might have messed with Windows mouse settings. Try setting Windows mouse sensitivity back to 6/11 (middle position of the slider) and enhance mouse precision off. Then maybe choose a lower DPI in Oscar if the Windows tweak still doesn't do it? -
Might also want to verify usb polling rate; that MRR tab shows '144Hz', which is an unlucky value. Default Windows is 125Hz, so better change it back to 125Hz or a multiple thereof (250/375/500 etc.). Mind that it's possible to increase polling rate up to 1000Hz using a filter:
I need a new mouse, plz suggest one for me
Discussion in 'Accessories' started by deepnes, May 15, 2015.