Problem with my Klipsch ProMedia 2.1

the other day, i was rearranging the wires behind my desk to tiddy things up. my ProMedia's were plugged in at the time and i accidently hit it's cord so it came off. well i heard a weird sound and then the subwoofer/amp unit never came back on again.

first thought was: dang it! i blew a fuse!

well fast forward to now: i went out to radio shack and got some replacement 2A/250V fuses. i place the new fuse in, twist, lock, plug in the subwoofer/amp unit, and pop. blown fuse. did this again to 2 more new fuses. do u guys have any idea what the problem might be? do u think i have to disassemble my subwoofer/amp unit and see if there's other blown fuses inside?

 

I'd guess a short. Assuming the fuses are properly rated? Visually check all the wiring and make sure there are no other breaks in the wire chain. If the problem is internal you may have to replace them.

 

i just got whatever fuse that fitted the 2A/250V reading on the OEM fuse. i googled and some people said they had a similar problem. said they had to open up their subwoofer unit and replace a fuse inside of there as well, so i might open it up. all wires and connections look perfectly good.

 

as i started to unscrew the back of my subwoofer/amp unit, i thought to myself "how the heck do u even open this thing???" lol

i tried unscrewing the screws on the back, but some of them don't even come out. it just turns...? i thought taking out the 9 bigger screws surrounding the whole plate would be enough, but it doesn't seem to be so. i bought this thing from ebay, so i think i'm S.O.L.

 

so i figured out how to take the back piece off and look into the guts of the unit. everything looked fine. the 2 fuses that were powering the left and right channels looked perfectly fine. maybe there is a short somewhere? i'm all out of ideas.

there is one difference i can see between the factory fuses and the ones i got from radioshack. the OEM/factory Klipsch ones had a thicker "coil" on the inside. the one i got from radioshack is like a tiny, single strand of coil and it pops everytime i try to power on the subwoofer/amp unit. any ideas? i got my ProMedia 2.1's from ebay so i'm not sure if calling Klipsch would do me any good.

 

If the fuses are the proper rating and burning out instantly its a short for sure.

Does not matter if they look the same as long as the rating matches.

 

what are my options if i have a short?

 

Fix it or Replace it

 

You must us the electronic method to isolate the problem: go half way and check for signal. That typically entails test equipment, so if you don't have it, you might consider engaging a friend or visiting your friendly neighborhood technical school for support.

Make sure you don't spend more time and effort than the units are worth. At some point you may have to take the loss and move on.

 

sigh...i wouldn't know where to start if i wanted to fix it, and am sure i don't have the proper tools.

i'm going to call Klipsch tomorrow and see what happens. if anything, i'll just grab another 2.1 system. i wonder if i should go with another set of ProMedia 2.1's...i've already had numerous Logitech speakers.

 

Unless they were damaged due to your negligence, why would you go back to a product with known defects? Contact Klipsch and complain to them about your issue (they need to know) and move on.

 

I don't remember the exact symptoms my brothers' Klipsch 2.1 system showed.. But I know there was a resistor in there that blew out... twice.

At first I didn't see it, but after closer inspection I did, there are two of them, the same value. If you post pictures of the main board, then I can probably point them out to you. Though these resistors burned out intensely enough that it was visible. They are the 1/4 watt in-line style resistors, not a surface mount.

 

the ProMedia 2.1's were probably the best computer speakers i've ever owned. those little things surprised the heck out of me with how much of a punch they packed. they worked perfectly fine until that incident so i dunno if i'd call it a "known defect". i dunno though...i guess i'm open to suggestions. what 2.1 system would u prefer?

that totally sucks. well, i'm going to call them tomorrow and let them know. even if it was that resistor, i don't have a solder or any of the tools needed. =\

EDIT: why did the Logitech 2.1 THX-certified system become so ugly?!?

 

I don't buy computer speakers so I can't really recommend any. Since I already have an amplifier, I buy bookshelf speaker for portability. If and when I need an even smaller package, I will still buy powered general use speakers. The may lack the ease of a USB connectivity, but they're just better made.

 

I have a set of Klipsch's other 2.1 computer system, the GMX 2.1, which I believe is discontinued. When the subwoofer blew on them, Klipsch offered no-questions-asked replacement. I bought them new, but I don't believe they asked for any warranty information. In fact, they asked me to send in the subwoofer and power supply and returned an entire system, so I've got two extra satellite speakers now.

All that to say it might be worth contacting Klipsch about repair/replacement.

 

Since they decided that sound "quality" wasn't their top priority. My Z-2300's will be the last high-end Logitech system I own, and thank God they're built like a brick-***-house. That's partly the reason I didn't get the Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's... they didn't feel as well put together as the Logitech's. Plus I'd seen dozens of bad things happening to the Klipsch model online (mostly pertaining to the sub and amp).

The bad thing is that now people know how good of a deal the Z-2300's are and are charging an arm and a leg for them, since they've been discontinued. I've seen some going for $350. That's absurd, even though I love them.

 

man, that would be lovely.

the Z-2300's would've been my 2nd choice. they have thunderous bass for such a tiny unit, but the ProMedia's have better sound clarity though.

edit: if things don't work out with Klipsch, i've been waiting for a reason to try out some M-Audio AV40's.

 

The Z-2300's are great for gaming, but are rather muddy for music I think.

You should also look into the Audio Engine 5's.. I know they cost more than the M-Audio's but they sound very good for the size.

 

nice suggestion. i've actually heard of Audio Engine, but never really looked into any of their products. do u know the differences between the A5 and the A5+? the only difference i can see is that the A5+ comes with better thermal design and a remote control. i wonder if any local stores carry Audio Engine.

 

I know the local Mac store has a set of the A5's.. I've never actually seen the A5+ version, that remote would be pretty cool to have. If you've got the room then you could also look into the KRK Rockit 6. I've got a set of the 6's and the 8's and they're both pretty good speakers. I think the 6's are more balanced but I haven't seen anything go as loud as the 8's for the size(for outdoor/DJ use).

 

ewww...they quoted me almost $80 just to replace the circuit board. why in the hell would i pay $80 bucks when i can just get a new set of speakers for about $20 more...

 

Silly things. I hope you gave them a piece of your mind.

I always let companies know when I am dissatisfied with their product, service, etc. As someone who once worked in the complaint department of a large local business, I can say without a doubt it does work.

 

This has been a pretty common problem w/the PM 2.1 sets.....I have 2 sets both which were defective so I finally hooked the mids up to an older Technics 100x5 AVR and used a plate amp/sub I built.

Those resistors mentioned are the usual suspects though it's been so long I don't remember the cause as replacing them will cause them to blow again. Vaguely it may have been faulty caps, but you can check the Klipsch forums and PM 2.1 subforum. A member there sells replacement boards, control pods,etc....

EDIT: Here's the PC speaker subforum if you want to browse or search..plenty of the same thing there...
http://community.klipsch.com/forums/13.aspx

Jeremy

 

@mrniceguy: thanks for the info.

radio shack actually sold me the wrong fuses, so i'm going to give it 1 last try. they sold me 2A/250V Fast-Acting fuses, in 2 different sizes. one of them being the wrong size. -_- the Klipsch tech told me i needed the Slow-Acting ones. the only reason why i don't think my system is a defect or faulty is because i kind of caused it. hopefully the fuse replacement works because i actually really like the ProMedia 2.1's.

if it is indeed a bad/fried/shorted board, i'm just going to give it to my buddy and see if he wants to do anything with them. i'm going to pick up some M-Audio AV40's or Audio Engine 5's.

 

+++

I have had my AV40s for almost a year now, no complains and I am happy with the decision. That was what I could afford at the time.

 

lol how do u like them? did u come from a traditional set of 2.1 PC speakers before u dove into the stereo setup?

i really want to try out something like the AV40's or the AE 5's, but i'm just scared they won't provide enough bass for what i need them to do. their main purpose will be JUST the computer and i don't even use my computer that much. knowing myself.......if i like the AV40's or AE 5's, i know i will keep wasting money on expanding the setup because i have a feeling i will miss the subwoofer for gaming and stuff.

 

I came from an old 4.1 Cambridge Soundworks set. (they don't make them anymore) Not much of a bass person myself, and I can't say the AV40 are too bass heavy even with that "bass boost" switch turned on. Can't speak for the AE5's myself.

 

The AE5's have pretty impressive bass for their size.. but you can certainly tell they don't have a subwoofer. With either the AE's of the M-Audio you can just find a half decent used subwoofer on craigslist and hook it up with them.

 

I am having the same issue and am about to go insane and just chop the stupid sub open. How did you manage to get the back off? I've taken out every screw possible, unscrewed the thingies where those wires go, taken the caps off the dials even. Please share your wisdom with me!

 

Take the 8 large screws out that are located around the perimeter. Don't take out the other large screws or any of the small ones, they all hold different pieces onto the plastic and circuit boards.

Soon as you have the 8 screws removed, take a flat screw driver and place it under one side. Be careful though as this can mar the metal or wood. Soon as you have a good bite under the metal plate then pry it out, sometimes this plate sticks in VERY well.

If you see anything that looks unusual take some pictures of it and post it up here, I've currently got 2 of them sitting on my project table awaiting parts, I can give it a close look in the pictured area and hopefully help you get it back up on its feet.

 

Thank you so much! I pried the stupid thing off and put some tube thingy back in a hole from where it had fallen out. I checked the capacitors and any other little thing for a round top, none to be found. Put the panel back on, re-plugged it in, and it worked! I have no idea what was different besides the large tube, but I am happy! Thank you again!

 

sorry, i just saw your post right now.

glad u got your problem situated though. cheers.

 

Hi people,

I have the same issue of the fuse blowing immediately after getting it replaced. I have used the rated T2A 250V (slow blow) but still it blew. Then I removed the transformer connections to the Pre-amp circuit and the fuse didnt blew. But then I connected it back to see, and it blew again. I suspect the pre-amp circuit is having issues.
I am at lost at what to do to make this working without investing much.
I wrote to Klipsch and they asked me to either replace the amp thru them which will cost $78.98 plus shipping and tax. Or else to get it serviced thru Sybesma's Electronics for a flat fee of $75.00.

Well those seems to be a lot and what puzzled me is, my klipsch was working well until a power failure. When the power came back, the system wont just boot up. I checked the fuse and it got burned.
But when i am replacing the fuse, its blowing immediately.

Moreover, mine is a new promedia 2.1 without the external fuse as confirmed by Klipsch too. I checked the rear end and could not fine the fuse. Then I opened the panel and saw that a small mirco-fuse with the same rating mounted with a solder joint. Then I removed and checked it was fused, Now I have replaced that connection with a "fuse holder" connection and am using the 5x20mm glass fuse of the same rating.
Is the fuse blowing because I have used the glass one instead of the designed "DIP Mounted Miniature Square Slow Blow Micro Fuse T4A 4A 250V".
(attached link for the same in amazon)
Amazon.com: Amico 20 Pcs DIP Mounted Miniature Square Slow Blow Micro Fuse T4A 4A 250V: Home Improvement


Guys help me with any input as I have been spending the last 3 weeks on the same and have already invested about $30 buying tools and fuses to no avail.

HELP!

 

As long as the fuze ratings are the same it shouldn't matter what type you use. I would look around for anything that has shorted out, and you can check the terminals on your transformer, use your resistance setting on your DMM, you should get about 100 ohms, if you get very low ohms then it may be shorted out, if you get infinity then your transformer is dead on the 120V side(common if you have brownouts).