3820TG Owner's Lounge - Part Two

My gpu would run at temps like that, but only if I really pushed it. I got temps like that when I would clock it to the max and run an external 1080p 70hz LG 23" display through the HDMI. Even then, the GPU temp stayed under 100C.

 

I used this guide to disassemble:
Dev-Host - 3820TG_Processor_Upgrade_Directions.pdf - The Ultimate Free File Hosting / File Sharing Service

It worked like a charm, took about 2 hours (though it might not be for the faint of heart).

Preliminary tests show a drop of about 10*C, like previous reports. I'll get back to you though!

Now running 160 FSB for a total of 3200mhz @ 80*C in prime95

 

Acer's quality control at the factory is not all that great, so the quality of the factory thermal paste job varies widely. A lot of us repasted our Acers as soon as we got them. Glad to see that it helped. New idle temps should be in the 40-45C range. My new unit repasted idled at 35C.

 

Which ATI drivers do you guys recommend? I've never updated mine and I'm not sure if I can just use the ones from AMD.com because of the switchable graphics? And do I have to upgrade the Intel drivers as well?

 

I use version 11.11c as forums have said that any newer do not add any significant changes to the 5000 series drivers. I had installed newer, but the only difference I noticed was the GPU ran hotter. If I'm not mistaken, the newest AMD drivers disables the switchable graphics. So, if you do want the latest version with switchable graphics, I'd say read back a dozen pages. There was some talk about which versions to use.

If you want the latest Intel driver, you can install Leshcat drivers, found on the first page. I haven't had the need to update the Intel driver. The ones Acer provided are fine enough for me.

 

It's been 3 years already?! I remember two years ago that I was looking through this thread (the first part) and that was then that I was convinced to buy this laptop.

Still running strong, although recently the wi-fi crapped out pretty often. Broadcom BCM943225 I believe (the combo Wi-Fi / Bluetooth) card. So I purchased an Intel 6205 ( I don't need the Bluetooth), but I'm running in problems when I'm replacing it.

My questions to people that replaced Broadcom/Atheros cards: are there preliminary steps to take before removing the card? As in uninstalling drivers, turning off the antennas, or whatever. After installing the new card, do I need to download the new drivers, or is it plug-and-play?

Thanks in advance!
Fredo

 

I replaced the wifi cards on my and my son's 4820TGs with some older Intel card from 2 years ago. I downloaded the latest drivers, put them on a usb key and just replaced the wifi card. After booting I ran the installer and that was that. Pretty easy. The OS will just ignore the old drivers if the hardware isn't installed anymore. I do think I went somewhere in the system part of the control panel and disabled the old wifi drivers but it's been years, literally, since I did it.

 

I plan to upgrade from i5-460M to i7-640M. Do I need to follow the CPU upgrade and disassemble everything or I can just remove back cover, heatsink fan and replace CPU?

Appreciate if you guys can advise on this.

 

I think I may go back to Windows 7. I'm tired of not being able to control the brightness on both cards and having the occasional perpetual stuck in sleep mode bug. The video card drivers for Win 7 just created a much smoother user experience. Is it as simple as just using a Windows 7 OEM disc with the key on the bottom or do I need a special Acer install version to work with the key?

 

yes, it's been working with no problems for months now. (Don't know about the gaming performance, as I haven't used it to play in a long time)

 

Hey guys, maybe you can give me some advice!

I'm currently running stable @ 160fsb (crashes at 166fsb) and thinking about getting some more ram (2x4gb). If possible I'd like to keep the same overclock or even increase it.

From reading in this thread I've learned that putting in more ram usually means getting a lower overclock. Someone said this is because people get cas9 sticks and when these run on cas7 (as is standard for the 3820tg) you cant overclock as much. Is this true?

I have a few alternatives on ram:
1. PNY SO-DIMM DDR3 PC10660/1333MHz CAS7 (to me unknown brand & store to buy from)
2. KINGSTON DDR3 HYPERX PLUG N PLAY 8GB 1600MHZ CL9
3. CORSAIR VENGEANCE 8GB DDR3 1600MHZ (2X4GB) SO-DIMM CL9
or
4. KINGSTON SO-DIMM DDR3 4GB 1066MHZ DDR3 NON-ECC CL7

Do you think any of these alternatives will be able to run cas7 @ 160-166 fsb or more?

Kind regards

/ Fredrik

EDIT:
I did some more reading... according to some guy on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/computers-accessories/dp/B006EWUOL8

he is running his corsair vengeance 1600mhz 2x4gb at 6-6-6-16 @ 1066mhz. Seen some comments elsewhere who also seem to think corsair vengeance is the way to go. We'll see how it works out

 

Hey everyone,

While I'm sure many people have moved on to bigger and greater laptops, I have refused to put away my 3820TG and it is still running strong! I recently replaced the bluetooth and wifi card with the intel 6250 that everyone recommends and it runs great.

The only problem is that launch manager won't turn off the bluetooth, and when I go to device manager to see what's wrong with it, it still thinks the Aetheros card is installed and when I toggle bluetooth on/off, it turns the Aetheros card on and off :\ Wifi toggles on and off fine it's only bluetooth with this issue.

I have disabled and deleted the drivers for the card and it's no longer even installed in the machine so I'm stuck as to why it thinks it's still installed

Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

Maybe it's time for a clean install of windows? Have you reinstalled launch manager as well? You can find it on the acer website...

 

I just went down to the store to get my 2x4gb of Corsair Vengeance 1600mhz CAS9 ram... came home happy to post some new OC info for you - but the computer won't boot!

I've tried with just one stick of ram in either slot and with both and it won't work. I've even tried with one old and one new stick, but it still won't boot.

I've tried resetting the bios from the F2 menu - with no luck.

Anyone got any ideas?

Regards

/ Fredrik

 

The max frequency that your RAM will run at is 1033 due to the Arrandale's limitations. It sounds like you're having compatibility issues with that 1600 vengeance memory. You should have no problem running 1600, clocked at the slower speed. You'll have to see if they'll exchange it. I ran GSkill in mine. The first set I got was actually bad (I think they were 1333). Any problem returning it?

 

Thanks for the quick reply

I'll see what they say... I'll try turning them in for some other ones tomorrow!

 

Been there done that, no need for exotic RAMs.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/acer/561840-3820tg-owners-lounge-part-two-63.html#post7404436

 

Thanks for your answer! I actually read your post earlier and looked into thaiphoon burner but it was too expensive for my taste. I ended up returning the ram!

 

Still using my 3820TG with HD5650 here. I have Windows 7 64-bit installed. Its been a *long* time since I've upgraded graphic drivers on it. Just recently WoW started complaining about out of date AMD drivers + I experienced my first blue screen in quite a while.

Does temporarily switching the computer to 'discrete graphics only' in the BIOS, installing the latest catalyst drivers (I see 13.4 is the current version on AMD's site), and then changing the BIOS option back to 'switchable' still work?...Or are other methods necessary to install up-to-date graphics drivers?

 

Yes, thats the proper method that still works with latest drivers. BUT, don't forget to make sure you are on the discrete card in Windows before rebooting into bios for the hardwareswitch.

 

Hello guys i have problem with my 3820tg display : after one hit i started get shadow at bottom side of display. You can see it at foto : ImageShack Album - 6 images. I need advice, shout i replace whole display or just some other part like invertor etc.?

I have at mind upgrade my 3820tg, because is still good notebook with long life battery and quite good performace. But if i cant fix display, it give no sense to put money in this notebook.

Thank you.
ps.: If i write to wrong forum pls advice where i shout ask with this problem.

 

This looks like your light source got knocked out of place. It's probably fixable by someone with enough skill to open up the LCD panel at the bottom and rearrange the light source. It's no job for a first timer tho.

 

Thx a lot for advice.
I just look at it on internet and found guy with similar problem : Repair: Samsung SA300 LED Monitor - YouTube
I need get it fixed but i have no money for acer service(student), witch suck at my country anyway. So only options for me is fixit by myself, or buy new display.

at worst case i order somethnik like : A+ NEW 13.3" LAPTOP LCD LED SCREEN PANELS FOR Acer Aspire 3810 3810T 3810TG 3810TZ 3810TZG 3935 3820T 3820TG 3830TG-in Laptop LCD Screen from Computer & Networking on Aliexpress.com

Whish me luck .
If you have any other advice, i will be glad for any help.

 

it look like a problem with backlit led - its combined into screen, so its might be hard to replace. look for B133XW03 - screen number - there are more results than for "acer 3820tg etc...". you can also choose, for example, semi matt with no difference in price (and, no difference in quality at all, but why not try something new ). Repleacing it is really easy if you are a liitle bit gentle

 

Agreed. it's far easier to replace a whole screen assembly than to fiddle with the backlighting etc.

Another good bet is finding a broken 4820 with a good screen. I.e. a bad motherboard etc. Then you just replace the whole lid assembly.

 

The bezel on the 3820TG comes off with only a few screws under the circular covers. It's the easiest way to fix a display IMO.

 

Hey guys! After 3 years of use my headphone jack came apart, I'm not sure what happened but S/PDIF doesn't work either. I have an extra 3820TG and was looking for a guide on how to swap out the headphone jack. Any help would be appreciated!

 

I would advise one of these screens if your only option is to replace the screen. You can even get a matte finishing.
https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/model/Acer/ASPIRE 3820TG TIMELINEX SERIES/

 

If I recall correctly, Headphone jack is on the lower right-hand portion of the mainboard. Tough job replacing it. Should involve soldering on the motherboard which always runs the risk of bricking the unit.

 

Get a usb sound card. There are ones smaller than a usb stick for ten bucks. Or a usb headset

 

If I have to engage in ultra dangerous soldering I´ll get the USB sound card instead, I didn´t even know that they existed! Thanks .

 

Isn't there some sort of computer repairshop near you where they do BGA repairs? That shouldn't cost too much. Just google for BGA repairs near you. I knackered my ZIF socket where the FPC for the keyboard goes. They soldered it back on for a small price.

 

Hello @ll,

I'm on the search for a similar notebook like the 3820TG for my sister. Have you an idea which models may be equal to the 3820TG at the time it has been released?

* 13-14"
* dedicated gpu
* if possible optical drive

Thanks for every hint.

@Bronsky

Nice to see, that you are still here.

 

I think the Sony S13 is a worthy successor. The cooling's not quite as great as the 3820TG But honestly nothing under 14" nowadays has the cooling system the 3820TG had. S13 has:

1600x900 screen
backlit keyboard
full voltage core i5 or i7 (dual core not quad)
GT640MLE (very overclockable)
DVD/BR drive
Synaptics touchpad
4+ hours battery
3.7lbs
all metal chassis, carbon fibre lid
terrible, awful, way below average speakers (if that's important to you)

You can find them as open box etc for $800 or so if you shop around, and well under $1k new as well.

 

Yep ... still drop around occasionally to see old friends.

 

FYI AMD drivers 13.6 Beta installed on my win8 in switchable mode without any issues

 

Hi guys! I have 3820tg with i3-370M and radeon hd 5470 mobility. I want to upgrade my laptop a little bit. I've added some RAM and now it has 6Gb RAM. As far as I know swap i3 to i5 won't give much. What about upgrade the graphics card to hd 5650? Is it possible to do so? Have anyone tried it? I've found several rather cheap mxm3 slot 5650s on the ebay.

 

I've just watched dissasembly video and it looks like the graphics card is lodered into the mainboard. Did somebody try to change the whole motherboard? I've found this offer Laptop Motherboard For Acer Aspire 3820tg Series 48.4hl01.03m Intel Hm55 Non-integrated Ati Mobility Radeon Hd 6650 Ddr3 - Buy Laptop Motherboard For Acer 3820tg,3820tg Laptop Motherboard,Mbrem01002 48.4hl01.03m Product on Alibaba.com

 

Somewhere in the first thread is my story of my first 3820TG being damaged by water that fried the motherboard. I ordered a replacement from China and was provided the wrong board. After a couple of exchanges that also didn't work, I gave up. Be careful ordering from China. Make sure you purchase with a credit card that will advocate for you if you don't get the right part.

Other than that, the motherboard is not that hard to replace.

 

Thanks for the tips. I'm afraid that new motherboard won't suit some connectors or something. I've only found the one with 6650 which is next gen for 5650 that is used in our laptop.

 

Hello guys,

Unfortunately, my motherboard went dead two days ago and I am looking for a new one. My laptop is the 3820tg i5-460 with HD5650 gpu. The official store wants more than 400 dollars...

I am looking through ebay in order to find a mobo, but I am not sure which model is the right one. Can you help me with that?

I have found this Mb.ptc01.001 and this MB.PV101.001 but I don't believe the are the right one.

PS: The GPU is on the motherboard right? So, I have to find one with the HD5650. Is there a chance that I can replace the GPU with the right tools?

Thanks a lot.

 

The GPU is soldered to the board and extremely hard to replace. I have a full electronics lab here at uni and would not attempt it...

 

There are a few options. There are a number of flat rate repair services. Here's an example. Intel to announce new Haswell processors in September There are rebuilt motherboards from China but I've had problems ordering from them and returning the wrong part.

 

Any idea about the SN of the motherboard?

 

I've run into some issues... I installed the 13.4 AMD driver the usual way (bios -> discrete -> install dirver over old -> bios -> switchable), but now the screen just turns black after the win 8 boot screen when on switchable. On discrete it's fine, but on switchable - black screen when windows is loaded. Ideas?

EDIT: Would it affect the switchable mode to install the stock Acer driver when on discrete?

SOLVED: So after a few reinstalls and stuff, nothing did the trick. But then, when the black screen came up once again, I simply closed the lid, then opened it, and voilá. Back to normal. lol.

 

Get a new laptop may be the best option you have.

 

Bronsky, I recently started having an overheating issue on the laptop that I bought from you. I was running Windows 8 but had an issue with some stuff I was trying and screwed it up so I went back to Windows 7. Previously on Windows 8 i was running 633/1050 GPU and 153 FSB and running max 95*C on GPU and CPU was in the 70*C range under gaming load. Now the CPU will hit about 90*C and the GPU hits 115*C and shuts off with a small GPU overclock of 600/950 and stock CPU. Do you think its possible I need to disassemble and redo the thermal paste? I am running the same 13.1 leshcat drivers on 7 as I was on 8.

 

Take it back to original Acer drivers and see what your temps are like. While it is possible to fry the thermal paste, it is not likely. Try that and see what you get.

 

I bought a refurbished motherboard online from China. It arrived last wednesday and I immediately went and changed the CPU from my old motherboard. It wouldn't start, however I got a blinking powerlight. I didn't have time to finish as I had to leave. Today I returned and started working on it right away. In the mean time I thought I had found the answer, because I didn't fully lock the CPU with the flat head screw, but it was turned 90 degrees. So I turned it to full lock and put everything back together but still had the same problem. I took it apart again and refitted the CPU. And now when I put the battery in I get a flashing power light every second or so and once per cycle I get four flashes of the battery light. Anybody have an idea what that means? I'm getting a bit desperate now.

I connected the power connector to my old motherboard with nothing else attached and I get a blinking power led as well. Is somebody willing to disconnect the powerboard cable on their laptop and see what it does if a battery is placed? If you get the same result I need a new powerboard, otherwise the motherboard goes RMA.

 

Hey everyone, I've been using my 3820TG (5454G32n) for three years now and although it's starting to feel sluggish, I don't wanna get rid of it just yet (although I'd still love to hear what those of you who have retired your beloved laptop replaced it with). Instead, I was first thinking of simply wiping the hard drive and doing a clean install, but now I'm more into replacing the whole thing and starting anew.

So, I have a few quick questions for ya'll if that's ok with you 8)

First and foremost, would a SATA-II drive work fine or do I need to find myself an old SATA? And I know that 90% of you are gonna try and convince me into getting an SSD instead (yes, they are fast), but I'm not ready for that step just yet - I still feel that they're a tad expensive for my taste and I'd rather just get one when I purchase my next laptop in a year or so...

Also, I'm currently on 2x2GB DDR3-1333 CL9 SODIMM and was thinking that I could probably do much better than these. Any recommendations? The 3820TG-5454G32n is restricted to only 4GB of RAM, right?

Lastly, do I need to use an optical drive in order to install Windows again (I think I borrowed an external from a friend of mine 3 years ago) or would a USB stick do if I make it bootable? Just making sure that there aren't any restrictions with the 3820TG, making this operation impossible ^^

Thanks in advance!

PS. Speaking of USB memory sticks, could I squeeze out any extra performance by taking advantage of Windows 7's ReadyBoost feature?