Acer TimelineX 3820TG Backlit keyboard mod

If you just want other keys, buy a non-backlit keyboard, you can just swap it without filing or cutting anything. If you also really want the backlight option, you need to file and cut. Your notenook will not have a capability built in for backlit. If you do not have a bluetooth module you can probably not use power from there, since you would not be able to switch it on using fn+f3. You would need to find another source.

edit: just saw that you own a 3810, I don't know anything about them and maybe there is an option to connect backlighting. Maybe someone else can be of assistance

 

The backlit KB we have been using in the 3820TG is actually a 3810 KB. Depends on the model you have, but there might be a power socket for the KB's power ribbon. It's worth a look.

Bronsky

 

Ya, unfortunately I have no knowledge of circuitry to know how to spot such a thing.

As for swapping the keys, I tried removing a few keys and it's very difficult to do so and I actually ended up breaking a couple them in different ways...now I have no choice but to replace the whole keyboard

Thanks for the help thus far guys!!

 

The keys should not be swapped individually! Just buy a new keyboard, press the five+two tabs holding the original one in place, disconnect the flatcable en put in a complete new one. The only tool you need is a plastic thing to get the tabs pressed in. I used a guitar pick, worked very well.

While I was cutting my backlit kb, the backslash key fell off and I thought: weak, because I read that they are a pain to replace. But I could just click it back in place. However, every month or so, the backslash key jumps of the kb and I have to find it and click it back again. Really weird.

 

Ya, definitely these are extremely fragile keyboards in terms of the keys! I just tried removing the keyboard and it is very very easy, but in the process something went crazy with my tab key for some reason even though I never removed it or touched it (to my knowledge) as now it's difficult to press. My spacebar is also louder now and a little more "sticky" which is very strange as it seems to be seated in place OK. I did remove the spacebar key though, so I can take responsibility for that.

 

hi guys...
if i wanna replace my german 3820tg's keyboard (no backlit model for now)with an american-english model, where may i find that???? e-bay???
i wanna assure me that the new american-english-ebaybought keyboard doesn't press and/or scratch the screen while the notebook is closed...
so since there are many kb on the bay for the 3820 from many producer, which surely perfectly fit on my note without any issue (for the screen and for all the notebook components).
knows you one precise shop and/or model to buy????
thank you very much!!

 

Just another idea that could be explored further which I did try at first is the use of a flip flop such as a cmos 4013(about 90cents) and a momentary push button beneath one of the blanks above the arrow keys. I believe someone did something similar with a macbook.

For those who do not know, a flip flop is an integrated circuit which can be set with a pulse and has two states; High and low. so it could be used to toggle the keyboard on and off with a single press of a momentary push button. This would open up the possibilities for where the switch could be hidden substantially.

I never did get the flip flop functioning correctly but still, it's fuel for thought if anything

Edit: found the macbook mod I referred to earlier, it is certainly worth a look. He also used a CMOS 4013 so it would appear it is quite suitable for this sort of application.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/34268406@N06/sets/72157612409546653/with/3188465351/

 

Hi guys!
Had a friend over for some wine yesterday. That friend managed to pour some on to my 3820tg I turned it off and dried off what i could with paper, and then put it on my heated floor to make it dry out. Today i tried to fire her up. It started, but made beeping sounds all over the place!

I then removed the keyboard and tried to start. It worked and my machine seems okey. But the keyboard has som issues.

Is there som way to clean the keyboard to try to make it work again? Or do i have to buy a new one?

Thx!

 

I hope she was hot ;-)

Also, google some cleaning techniques. goodluck

 

Just buy a new one, they are about $30 and I'm sure trying to clean it will just give you grief.

 

My roommate, who's an idiot, tossed me a beer when I wasn't looking while I had my laptop in my lap. Sooo, guess who now needs to replace their keyboard? Lol.


Figured if I'm going to do it, I might as well do a backlit mod too. Three quick questions though:
New Acer Aspire 3810 3810T 4810 4810T Keyboard Backlit - eBay (item 270688745754 end time Feb-04-11 18:33:14 PST)
1.) Will the item above work on a 4820tg? Basically I need to know if they are the same sized keyboards as the 3810/3820 series.
2.) Will the function keys operate in the SAME way as they did with the OLD keyboard, or will the functions be remapped to the new keyboard's layout?
3.) Did the OP post in this thread with a walkthrough of the additional switch? I really want to give that a go.


Thanks all!

Edit: Just saw somewhere in the thread that they are indeed the same sized keyboards, yipee!

 

1. Yes (you already know that)
2. Yes - they follow the original KB function.
3. The switch is well documented in this thread. It is a bit*ch to do however. I think only 3 of use have done it so far and it takes a lot of work on the case to make the switch fit perfectly in the Kensington port.

One last hint ... make sure you do the work will all power off to the unit. No power plug in and the battery out.

Bronsky

 

If it follows the original KB mapping, then wouldn't the buttons be messed up?

Also is there anyone in the Toronto, Ontario area that want to do this mod for me? I never soldered before and I don' really want to start with the laptop as it's so expensive and for school use. In fact, LED backlight isn't necessary, but it's a plus to do. I'll be ordering the USA keyboard tonight.

 

It follows the standard US KB once you set it as a US KB in windows. The backlit FN key does not work. If you're not a very accurate at soldering, I would leave the mod alone and just replace the KB with a US one. The Backlit KB also requires a significant amount of fitting.

Bronsky

 

I'd agree with Bronsky here for sure.
even if you are good at soldering fitting the damn backlit keyboard in is a right pain in the a$$.
that was certainly what I found most challenging.

 

The FN key on backlit keyboard doesn't work? You can't control the brightness, put computer to sleep, etc? Is that what you are saying?

 

Correct. The one that controls backlighting on the after market KB is not functional. All of the other FN keys work.

Bronsky

 

What good would that do if I can't control the brightness, volume, Fn+F3, etc.?

If I buy the normal USA keyboard for the 3820TG, would these keys work then? This way, I don't have to worry about soldering as well.

 

I think what he's trying to say is that the FN+Key for backlight on/off does not work but all others (brightness, volume, sleep, wifi, etc.) work like a normal nonbacklight keyboard.

 

Thanks for the interpretation.

Bronsky

 

Regarding the 3810T keyboard. If I get the normal one that doesn't have the backlit function, do I still have to cut things to make the keyboard fit? The price difference between the 3810 and 3820 keyboard is HUGE. Like $20 difference!

 

AFAIK, the 3810T works fine. It is what users put in their 3820TGs before the 3820T keyboard was produced. I think it fit without modification.

Bronsky

 

Hi Guys. Awesome thread...

I got my keyboard some days ago and want to try to install it in the next days. I'm considering wiring the keyboard to the CAPS-Lock key/led somehow (Nobody needs that key anyway). I guess the keyboard has several (2?) LEDs in serial and parallel, thus the ~3,5V. A really small circuit to connect it to 5V, switched by the CAPS-Lock key sounds like the best choice.
If anybody has ideas or circuits in that direction, I'd be glad to know... I would be willing to solder SMD parts also to make it fit.

Edit:
Found the posts related to current draw. 150mA@5V and 40mA@3,5V...
How about this. Would that work? What kind of readily available SMD FET could I use?

(or more conveniently connect the resistor directly to the the FET...)

I'll probably get power from here (image from somewhere in this thread):

Is this power source somehow connected to some device, so e.g. when I switch off WiFi or whaterver it turns off?

 

Hey so to do this mod all I need is the keyboard which i've already ordered a soldering iron, and solder. Is that all? or are there additional wires I need.

 

You will need some wire to jump the power and ground to the ribbon on the keyboard. I canabolized a desktop fan extension that I had available. If you add a switch like some of us did, you will need a lot more wire. I also recommend a jewelers file to open the slots needed to adjust the fitting. Oh, and lot of flux. Having adequate flux on the joints is critical to the success of your soldering efforts.

Bronsky

 

what kind of wire exactly? Can I just use what ever wire. I mean I have spare computer parts lying around Could i just take the wire from the 4 pin.

 

I'm also probably going to do it with the op's method cause its the most detailed. I own a 4820tg

 

It might be smart to get a SMALL soldering iron (small tip, only a few watts) otherwise you burn/desolder stuff and break the board, especially when you're less experienced in soldering. Plus get SMALL (diameter) wire so you have less problems running it through the small space you have in there. Current should not be an issue, as the 50-150mA are virtually nothing...

Flux is usually not needed, but makes stuff easier. With proper soldering iron temperature and clean coper wire you have solder on your wires in no time. Just heat the tip of the wires first, then put solder on them. Don't use flux on your mainboard! You don't know what stuff it contains that reacts with the board. It might die on you early because of corrosion etc...

Also, for beginners: First prepare the wires (put solder on them), THEN solder them to the board to not heat it more than necessary. If you don't know how to solder, maybe first try on some less expensive stuff...

 

Can you redirect me to a link for the wire. I do have case fans lying around, and speaker wire, but I'm not quite sure if its compatible with what I'm doing here. As for soldering iron im using a 20 watt.

 

You "imperials" Had to look it up: "18 gauge" = ~0.040303 inch diameter = ~1mm
Should be enough. The wires are not very long anyway.

 

haha well yeah. hmm for some reason by most didn't show the type of solder I use. I have 20 watt soldering iron, its small and hopefully small enough to do the job.

Roar if you can recommend me another wire that would be great. Just trying to get everything that will make the installation as smooth and easy as possible.

 

Your wire is ok. 20W is a bit much for your soldering iron maybe. If you can adjust it, turn the temperature down a bit, else be careful and don't heat up both the the board and the ribbon cable for too long...
Good luck with the mod. I'll try to do it this weekend when I have time.

 

Keyboard should becoming tomorrow I'll post pictures when finished

Stupid question, but essentially couldn't you just take electrical tape and keep it down.

 

I am not that much into FETs but you should know that a FET voltage controlled and in this case it would perhaps be easier to have current control ->transistor.
YouTube - Transistor as a switch
Easy does it Just check the data sheet of what you have lying around or buy some.
The most important paramaters are the type of transistor (NPN/PNP) and collector current (in NPN).
You can read up here:
The Bipolar Transistor, BJT

For the switching:
Caps lock led sounds good, but what will you do with all your capital letters? YOU CANNOT SHOUT ALL THE TIME RIGHT I guess numlock has the same problems. You could use wifi (led or from board) or BT (if available) but then they always switch together.

For the power:
You could just take the 5V from the USB, then you know for sure you can draw enough current and you would not have to solder on the mainboard for the power source.

Good luck!

 

Hey martijn_mf.

(Si-)Transistors have a base voltage of ~0,7V, but I probably have more like 3V, because the CAPS-Lock LED is blue. I'd need to build a voltage divider to get the 0,7V (+, so an NPN-Transistor), which would need additional components, otherwise it draws much more current through the base. That's why I want to use a FET that I could drive with the 3V and was asking if anybody knew a type that is really common...
I have lots of electronic trash lying around though so might just canibalize a FET from that.
Collector current is not really excessive, there are lots of types that can handle the 40-50mA.

For the USB ports: I'll check if they shut off power when the Laptop goes to standby or turns off...

I'm a programmer and seriously, if my keyboard didn't have a CAPS-Lock key I wouldn't give a $hit. At home I usually pry it off so I don't hit it accidently...
Numlock though, on laptops as on any keyboard, can be useful.

 

About the caps: I know, i hate the thing too. But I guess the led will only come on if the function is active. So how do you get the led to turn blue without having capital letters?

About the USB: no they will not power down in standby, the 5V will be available unless you totally shut down. Which is fine I guess, since you have the FET to switch right? Capslock led would definetly turn off on standby so your KB backlit will turn off too.


For the transistor: I respectfully disagree

The 0.7V is a minimum potential required to make current flow from the base to the emitter.
If you have 40mA flowing through the collector (I would go for 150mA@5V since it is not harder to make), you need to know your hfe of the transistor. You can then calculate the current required through the base in order to saturate the transistor. Given you have 3V from a led, you would have to calculate which resistor to use at the base to get the desired current flow.

Please do correct me if I am wrong.

 

I might seem like a total jerk now, but meant SCROLL-Lock :/ DAMN!!!
Which makes my plans quite silly if the laptop doesn't have a SCROLL-lock LED.
Man, I haven't seen that thing for days now, because of work and sleep...

That doesn't make CAPS-Lock less useless, though...

I did that with my old laptop. Installed an LED in the LCD frame and connect it to the SCROLL-Lock LED. Worked really well.

I would like to use a power source that turns off in standby automagically and if I solder and possibly void my warranty I can also solder anywhere on the board...

You are right. But if you have 3V on the base without a limiting resistor there's probably a lot of current through base. A FET has virtually none.
I could (would need to) use a resistor at the base and just use that to choose which brightness I want to have. Might be a smart idea.

If the type of transistor driving the SCROLL-Led can take the extra load, maybe the backlight could even be connected to the LED. Less work.

It is also really tempting to tap into backlight driving voltage somehow for brightness, but I think that's a bit too much work...

 

Haha nice... never mind.

The proper working of the transistor depends on that limiting resistor: you choose it so the the current is high enough to saturate (so enough current can flow through the collector) and as low as possible to minimize the base-emitter current.

[edit]if you have a switch, why would you want a power source that switches off? If you have a power source that switches on and off with the laptop, I would not bother with installing another type of switch, just leave it on.

A reason for soldering on the USB board could be that if you mess up (happens to the best) you would not have to throw away your notebook, but just remove the USB board. Maybe you could even purchase the USB board seperatly from somewhere, and thereby re-instating the warranty (would not know if that would work)
[/edit]

Anyhoe, a variable resistance would work to regulate the current flow. A variable input voltage would do the trick too, so the LCD backlit might be used for that. The problem is that you probably do not want the kb backlight proportional to the lcd backlight: by night you dim the LCD so it is nicer on your eyes, but you would want full KB brightness. In daylight you maximize the lcd brightness but the KB backlight is useless and only consumes precious power.

I have my 3820TG since October 2010 and the first thing I did was install backlit KB power by BT module. So I am using it now for about three months and it performs really really well. If there is no BT unit, I would almost suggest getting one from ebay, it's worth it (although I never ever use BT). The nice thing is not only the switching, but you only have to solder on that BT module, so no mainboard/usb board danger. If you need warranty you just remove it. The only thing horribly wrong with the backlit KB is that it just does not fit properly: it needs severe modification and it will always be too thick, so I always have a cloth between the KB an the lid when I close it.

 

is this any different on a 4820tg? Anyway you have a picture of it?

 

Well. I'd say if it is darker you also need less brightness for the keyboard. But I'd also like to have the possibility to turn it off completely too, as it could unnecessarily draw power or bother you in some cases.

As for BT power: IMHO it makes no sense to connect it to a device to switch it. It is convenient on the software side, but not really practical if you want to use that device. Matter of taste, I guess.

But, well... Less talk, more action! I'll post when I have done the mod.

There's 5V on every USB port, also on the 4820.

 

does someone perhaps have a picture of their backlit keyboard powred by the usb? I am currently trying to but the pictures seem to be down.

okay! so ive finally got it up and running. For some reason one side of my keyboard is brighter then the other =/ Anyone have a solution to this.

Nvm I'm sure i cutt too much of the keyboard and it screwed up the lighting. ordered a new one will be able to test it on thursday.

pictures seem to be gone again

 

I'm new at this forum, but I want to thank Hendrickson for his postings. I was very influenced by them when I ordered my 3820TG a few hours ago.

I want to make this mod as soon as I put my hands on this laptop, but before anything I want to figure out some things:

I have two options for the keyboard:
Compatible backlit keyboard for 3810 - $16.49 & Free Shipping
Original backlit keyboard for 3810 - $25.90 & Free Shipping
Someone related that the arrow keys didn't work in the compatible keyboard. Was this an isolated case or this is a bug just with the compatible and I should buy the original one?

Another question:
Is it possible to have access under each key? Or the keyboard is not accessible at all? I'm thinking about making a "circuit" with FN (AND) F9 feeding a (FLIP-FLOP) to switch the backlit state...
Other option I was thinking is the Ethernet. I can have it disabled in the same circunstances I want the backlit off.

Thanks!

 

Hi guys!! Yesterday I bought the 3820TG-5464G75nks in Germany and then the backlit keyboard with the Italian layout. I think I'm gonna make the backlit mod with the switch in the kensington lock hole getting the power from the usb.
Just few questions:
1. what happen to the usb port when the KB is on?
2. I would like to try to make the mod without soldering first, so as other people did with the Asus UL30 I want to use Wire Glue or invent something with this conductive trace pen where I'm able to do it. If not I will solder or maybe do anything (for warranty)
3. the ASUS UL30 people were able to make an ON/OFF switch with a touch sensor (very cool), is it possible to do this with the the 3820 as well? In this case is there someone that wants to try to build one (also for me if possible, I will pay )?
4. Otherwise I will try to build the normal switch like Hendrickson and Bronsky did, but I don't want to remove the kensington lock bracket and damage other parts if possible. This is the suggested switch to use, but it needs some fitting and modifications, so I'm looking for different types of switch that can pass through the original kensington hole. I found these, what to you think geeks?
SSAB010200 ALPS Slide Switches (not is stock now )
6VDC 0.3A DPDT Slide Switch - RadioShack.com
SPPH240100 ALPS Pushbutton Switches
101-35-5100-EV Mountain Switch Basic / Snap Action / Limit Switches
SPST Submini Slide Switch - RadioShack.com
2-Pack 3-Amp SPDT Sub-Mini Slide Switch - RadioShack.com
DPDT 0.5-Amp Hobby-Type Knife Switch - RadioShack.com
DPDT Submini Slide Switch - RadioShack.com

I'm not sure about Volts and Amps, I need some help. Thank you guys!!!

 

Nicknameless,

I'll try to put a switch in the kensington hole too, but I believe it won't fit without removing the metal bracket. I have two MP3 player switches to try.

These RadioShack switches are too big.

People say to avoid Wire Glue to this... In the Lounge they say to use the back of the USB board, because you can solder it cleaner.

I think the backlit uses 5v and 0.1A through USB.

 

Thank you raulilha for you advice,
but what happen to the USB when the KB is turn ON, does it lose bandwidth or speed or it is disable or whatever?

So soldering is required in any case but I'm afraid of the warranty issue. Is there someone who was able do it without leaving any trace?

I prefer not using Blue-tooth because it will be always ON and suck on battery as well when using the KB. But someone said it's a module, so can I buy another bluetooth module for few bucks, disable its antenna (so it doesn't waste battery), solder cables on it and use an USB bluetooth when needed (practically never). In this way the original module is still perfect and if I want to take advantage from the warranty I just need to replace it again, what do you think? And also I don't need to create the switch, I can use the BT button, am I right?

I don't like the microphone solution, I need it for my conference calls.

Thanks again, hope someone can address me in the right direction

 

There is no side effect for the USB.

Bronsky was able to desolder and use the RMA. He was very careful and it looks like he is very good with solder.

I don't like the bluetooth solution either, and I want 5v, however buying a module just for this may be a good idea. I'm not sure if disabling bluetooth by the hotkey would cut-off the power.

 

I have tried wire glue and I find it unsatisfactory. Find my recent post on soldering on the underside of the USB board in thr owners thread. It will link you back to this thread where I did mine. If after reading my post, you're still concerned ... don't do it. I guess you could always buy a spare usb board in case you can't revert.

The switch needs to be 5V, 5ma. There is no effect on the USB but I don't plug USB devices that need power on that port if I can help it.

Bronsky

 

Thank you again raulilha, and thank you Bronsky (it's an honour for me to write to one of the pioneers here ). I just finished to read all the 40 pages (before I just read here and there).

I'm gonna buy a spare usb board and work on that (so I will keep immaculate the very original). Is it easy to replace or it's better to work on the original and keep the spare one just for the worst scenario?

For the switch I liked the idea of Bluetooth of using FN+F3 without the need of modifying the kensington hole and the case (see this video). If someone is able to make a switch that uses the original "kensington hole" it would be perfect. Is this too big, I can't find it on stock?

What about the "touch sensor switch"? On Asus UL30 they made it and it's extremely cool
see here
and here even better --> video FANTASTIC!

 

The USB board is easy to swap so I like the idea of keeping the original pristine. I think the Kensington hole measures 5 mm x 1.5 mm but thats off the top of my head. Good luck.

Bronsky

 

I don't know where to order another USB board, I can't find it. Any ideas?
Suggestion for the soldering equipment (iron, solder, flux etc)?