Difficulty level: Beginner to Moderate
Time Required: 30 mins
So i got my package from ShirleyFU today...a brand new core i7 2820 QS. I figured i'd take some pics and share my experiences with everyone here.
1) Remove the Battery and remove the back panel
After removing the battery, remove the 2 screws (GREEN). Slide the back panel towards yourself and put it somewhere safe
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2) Remove the CPU fan, then heatsink assembly
With the m17x on its front and the battery at the top, the CPU is located at the bottom left side.
First you have to remove the CPU fan. Unscrew the three screws from right to left (GREEN). Next, unplug the fan's power connector (RED)
The heatsink comes off next. The screws (ORANGE) are labelled 4-3-2-1 ... starting with 4, turn the screw 3/4 turn, then go to 3 (do the same), then go to 2 (do the same),then go to 1 (do the same). Continue in this pattern until all the screws are undone. You do it this way so you don't warp the heatsink.
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3) Remove the CPU
With the heatsink removed, you can finally see the CPU. The CPU is attached in a ZIF socket. To remove the CPU, turn the screw (GREEN) counter clockwise one full turn until it stops. Then remove the CPU
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PIC of core i7 2630:
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PIC of core i7 2820:
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4) Install the New CPU
Next, install the new CPU. Notice that the triangle (RED) is pointing to the top right corner.
To tighten it, turn the screw (GREEN) clockwise one full turn until it stops.
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5) Apply Thermal Paste on New CPU
Here is what i used: Prolimatech PK-1...apparently the best thermal paste on the market. We will see how it fairs later. Before applying the paste, make sure you have some isopropyl 99% alcohol (i bought a big bottle at the local drug store for $3). Clean the CPU die with some paper towel. Some recommend using a coffee filter, but i've never seen the need. The cool thing about isopropyl alcohol is that you apply it and it evaporates off so you don't have to worry about residue. Just be careful to not leave paper fragments on the cpu die. Any contaminents on the CPU die will lead to higher cpu temps. Another method is to take your time with some Q-tips dipped in isopropyl alcohol and clean it thoroughly. It is also necessary to clean the copper surface of the heatsink that touches the CPU die. Just put some isopropyl 99% alcohol on a paper towel and clean the copper shim on the heatsink...again, beware of leaving any paper residue
Look on the above pic for how i applied the paste. Because the CPU die is not square, a dab in the middle will not allow the paste to sufficiently reach the far sides of the rectangular CPU die. So i solved this with 2 smalls dabs on each side of the cpu die
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6) Reassemble in reverse order
First the heatsink goes back on. Turn the screws 3/4 turn at 1, then 2, then 3, then 4...continue until it is tight. Don't over tighten the heatsink.
Next install the fan (3 screws), and plug in the fan power connector
Put the back panel on and install the battery. That's it! Enjoy![]()
So how did the PK-1 paste do? Well...after 17 mins of Prime95...my max temp is 73c on core 1...with the other cores at 72c-71c-71c These temps are ice cold for a core i7 2820 so i'm completely happy![]()
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Enjoy the new CPU![]()
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
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with this guide its piece of cake. Or it looks like. thanks rep +1
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... o___o
is this a newer model ? when did dell redesign it ?
mine had 3 copper pipes too .. basically inside's design is the same !
but not the backcover, i don't have that vent near the nameplate. -
You have 3 heat pipes?! Show please!
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Great job, my ShirleyFU 2820 comes Thursday and I'll be installing it by your guide. My m17x R3 is exactly set up like this one.
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Mines the same as yours, im based in the uk, delivered on 5th september -
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Nice Job Slick. Your temps are outstanding.
I know I overtightned my heatsink after reading your write up. -
SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
Have fun with it!
Don't overtorque the screws. You want all 4 screws to be evenly turned to keep the copper plate as flat on the CPU die as possible
i think my temps will drop another degree today. There really isn't any curing time with the PK-1 paste, but from what others have told me, the temp will drop 1-2 within the first few hrs. Give it a try...my temps prove that this thermal paste is potent -
What is this talk of 3 pipe heatsinks?!?!? I want one!
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
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Read again widezu, i didn't mean about the CPU but the GPU, Really sry about the confusion.
and about the triple HS take a look at this :
try contact with Aikimox, he even try to make a 4pipes HS LOLz
i hope he already find out how
http://forum.notebookreview.com/alienware-m18x/575859-official-m18x-owners-lounge-thread-105.html -
Not that it makes that much of a difference, but I would suggest a 4-2-3-1 unscrewing approach for the heat sink to make sure you do it evenly (following the same principle as unscrewing lug nuts on a tire).
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
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Nice
but I would add the cleaning of the CPU and heatsink surfaces with isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and a coffee filter (less lint) before adding any new paste. This will give it the best surface for the paste to adhere to.
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
(LOL...i'm just kiddin. I'm going to update the guide. i wanted to rep you for your tip...but "I have to spread it around first" lol...so please accept my verbal thanks here)
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so the "3 pipes" is only related to M18x ?
I have also the ventilation shaft near the nameplate on my M17x, but i havent unscrewed it yet. (recieved 4 days ago) -
The extra vent seems useless. I would rather Dell have put it on the other side so I could look at my nice Hyperx blues
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
yesterday, i stumbled onto a UK site that was selling 3 heatpipe CPU cooler labelled "Alienware m17x R3 CPU Heatsink" but i'm having a really hard time finding that website again -
I will give you my first born if you find me that link!!!
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How do I get in touch with this ShirleyFU person
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Click on one of his items and ask a question about it on the bottom.
@SlickDude80 Have you searched your history? This 3 pipe madness is driving me insane! -
The Revelator Notebook Prophet
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
Plus it was shipped the same day. I was very happy with the entire transaction
I'll look at my history when i get home. If i can find it, i'm buying one. The extra heatpipe will lower temps. I wish someone made an after market fan too -
I'm from the UK so maybe I can source it to people
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
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My 2820qm came in the mail and just installed it, great cpu and price. Glade I caught you on that post. Temps are real nice too. Great find on your part.
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
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Your thoughts on coollaboratory? I believe someone made a guide on here to use the metal pad but I can't find it anymore.
Liquid Ultra
Metal pad
Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra - How to install within 2-3 minutes - YouTube -
SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
Hank, i use this as my defacto bible on thermal paste.
Skinneelabs
2011 Thermal Compound Roundup – Results Compilation | Skinnee Labs
Look at moderate contact
i'm going to have to email Skinnee and see if he's working on a review of the Liquid Ultra. Looks very interesting indeed -
Liquid Ultra is very very reactive to aluminium. And since our heatsinks are part copper and part aluminium, I can't recommend it. But the performance looks amazing. Where's the IC Diamond in that roundup? That has been the greatest paste I have used.
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
As a result, i don't use ICD-7 anymore
Here's his comments on IC Diamond 7...he says its only an average paste
"IC Diamond will only be tested after this testbed is retired. Due to its severe polishing effect, ICD is not something I can test 15 mounts of and guarantee that the testbed will perform the same after as it did before (it permanently alters the CPU IHS and the block bases). That said, I did briefly test it while pre-testing for this testbed and procedure and I can say its really good with Poor Contact but does not improve much as contact improves, making it just an okay paste when you have at least moderate contact, which most CPU blocks, most GPU blocks, and most heatsinks do. " -
I see, yes it does stain a bit and the synthetic diamonds do cause some wear to the heatsink with copper being a really soft metal and all. But I change paste once every few months so I keep my heatsinks in good nic.
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I read through this thread but can I have a brief explanation as to what upgrading the cpu would do for the m11x. Waht are good and bad points to doing this? Just curious to know, does it help with better graphics on games etc?
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bigtonyman Desktop Powa!!!
. As to the pros of a upgraded processor, I haven't looked at the benchmarks and somebody feel free to correct me here, but I think the GPU would bottleneck before the CPU would during most games. A new CPU even if it would work, won't improve FPS to greatly unless its being bottle-necked significantly. Hope this answers your questions.
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
BigTony is right, the m11x's (all revisions) use a BGA socket and the CPU is soldered into the motherboard. So it isn't upgradeable like it is in the m17x.
m11x is meant to be ultra portable and won't run games all that well. Everything about the m11x's is designed for longer battery life and portability. The CPUs are ULV dual core versions which aren't as fast as the regular i5s, i7s and the gpu is gimped so it won't run games all that well unfortunately. So the m11x is meant to be a compromise, it is able to run games at some level and you can have lots of battery life -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250923671958 -
The Revelator Notebook Prophet
That's a little different chip from the standard OEM or ES versions of the 2920xm, but it will still provide a nice performance boost. Enjoy.
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
If the temps are decent and it overclocks well, i'll buy one. -
awesome guide, thanks slick! +rep
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
thanks Graz!
If its unlocked, and the temps are good, then it doesn't matter, but its riskier because you don't know what the temps are like. Heat will always be your enemy when overclocking to 4ghz in a m17x R3 -
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
you're probably better off just increasing your TDP via a tool like XTU (intel extreme tuning utility) to keep your 2760 turbo permanently high. THis is what i'm doing with my 2820 and it works great.
you'll run into 90 - 100c temps when you push a 2920xm to 4+ghz. -
There are 2 kinds. Engineering Samples (ES) are like beta releases. Hardware ID's are not finalised and turbo ratios haven't been fully decided. Intel documentation also lists 14 issues that have been addressed in the next version, the QS. These are Qualification Samples. Kinda like RC releases. Finalised turbos and hardware ID's and they are sent to manufactures to help them with compatibility and writing bioses etc. Virtually no difference between the next release which is the OEM, same as Retail.
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
i think the best scenerio is to get an ES2 (some call it QS ) version. These are essentially OEM versions but at half the price
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
go into your bios...advanced menu
set:
Overclocking Feature [ENABLED]
Override Turbo Settings [ENABLED]
then set your max turbo tdp in XTU to 57w...that's it. You can also do some mild bump of your BCLK...most people don't get past 105 -
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Really helpful guide. I love how easy it is to take the back panel off, brilliant design from Dell.
My bus frequency seems to stay on 9980 for some reason, I change it to 10019 but it still goes back to 9980 o.o
Can't wait till I can afford an 2920XM, no point getting the 2860 or 2960 IMO (Am I right in thinking this?), when the 2920 can be overclocked to 4.0Ghz easily - what I am aiming for when I am doing something productive in Sony Vegas/AE. -
You have to apply settings "Immediately" and then "Permanently (Reboot)"
Edit: Check the tips and tricks link in my sig for some stuff
[GUIDE] Installing a new CPU in the M17x R3... an illustrated guide
Discussion in 'Alienware 17 and M17x' started by SlickDude80, Oct 26, 2011.