[TIP] Replacing TIM in your 17xR2? READ

I'll get to the point. Whatever you do, *do not remove the P55M heatsink* I just learned the hard way that the TIM pad is thicker than normal, and as such, paste like AS5 probally isn't the best for maintianing full contact from the die to heatsink. Fortunatly, I had enough AS5 to blob it on there, but It was very difficult to make sure enough was making contact with the heatsink. So if you end up like this:

start whipping out the Credit card and go to itapestore.com you need either the bonding 3M 8805 or the non-bonding pads which is 3M 5590H. The bonding is a bit cheaper, but performs significantly less (.6 vs 3.0 w/m-k)



also some tips(because I'm bored):
-If you start up your machine and have the num/scroll/caps lock lights blinking, but no POST don't freak out. You haven't fried a gpu or cpu via ESD, the main LCD connector is not seated correctly, it is difficult to fully seat, the trick is to make sure you get a click noise on both edges. It might take a few tries to seat correctly.

- As many are already aware, removing the Control panel under the LCD the first time is very difficult. The best method I found was to first *never, ever, ever* use only metal screw drivers to open it up. You *will* break the tabs and it will never sit flush again, I did this with my R1 and It just pi$$ed me off to even look in that area. I used an automotive interior trim tool as my plastic screwdriver and a supplimental small screwdriver to finish the prying motion.

second, take your time.. removing this piece took the most time of the whole dissasembly, and I spent 20-30minuites on it. Someone suggested removing this panel from the rear first and sliding it out from the rear, but I was unable to make it work for some reason.


- Removal of the magnesium plate that covers the mainboard is more simple than it first appears. *all* of the screws you need to remove are marked with a P And you can leave all but 3 (the 3 @ the top near the LCD panel) in their place so you have less chance of loosing one. Remeber, you *must* remove the right side GPU heatsink in order to remove the Crossfire connector *first* before removing the magnesium plate. As well as the Blu-tooth and Wireless card antennas. All of which will appear self-explanitory when you have yours opened up.

 

Well I will not need to do any of these things as it will ruin my warranty(that would be horrible) but I will give you some rep for the effort

 

Thanks for the tip.

I like that you sent a photo of the interior plastics tool.

You can also order a plastic spudger and anti-static wrist strap or mat from places like ifixit.

I really do hope to never have to delve in that deep.

Also, if you don't break anything, you will not void your warranty. I think that it's even in writing from Bill @ dell on the xps forum.

 

User modifications of components and overclocking is not approved for warranty replacement. TIM replacement is not such, but you may have to haggle just a little bit if you've got the BASIC warranty to get a replacement part.

I'll likely have to go back in for some reseating, the VRM's in the GPU's are making more noise now, and it appears the AS5 did not seat correctly on the left GPU (it's significantly hotter)

 

Good luck, let us know how it works out.

Thanks again for the pics, you satisfied my curiosity.

 

I just opened up the case again and the PM55 must run cooler than I originally thought. The AS5 hasn't settled after a few dozen heat cycles so if you *really* want to replace it with some paste, it should be okay as long as you're surgical about applying it. Regardless I've bought some thermal pads from newegg which I'm hoping will be a viable alternative to the $30 3m product. It's hard to tell in the picture if they're the foam compressible type or if they're more like the thin pre-sliced 1 time use paste kind. Hopefully they're the thick compressible since in the description it says it conforms to surface irregularities.

here's a teaser pic for those wondering what CF 4870's next to a i720 looks like

 

If you like opening your system up always keep different size thermal pads and extra thermal paste handy. I have a dedicated "drawer" just for thermal items.

 

BTW, is that your 5870s or are you pulling the 4870s now? I'm really interested to know if you can add the 5870s to an existing R2. Part of me believes there may be a new system board revision but I'm just speculating. Based on the size of the die I'm guessing they are 4870s in the pic.

 

they are 4870s, correct. I'm calling my rep today to check on the status of the coupon so I can order the 5870s. Can't imagine there's a board revision, they're the same core GPU's.

 

I just find it odd that the "babyhemi" 5870 works in the M15x but not the M17xR2. Hopefully you will get them soon to verify.

 

Hit the brick wall I figured I would hit. I'm able to return my graphics cards for a credit, but unable to order the new cards without paying the $1000 upgrade fee like everyone else. Unless my CS rep has a magic card up his sleeve, I'm SOL and will have to return it like the rest of the world.


at least I will remember *not* to remove the PM55 heatsink this time XD

 

HEY, what happens if i removed the plastic film on the cpu???

 

I only had 0.5mm EK TIM pad available and replaced it but then read some posts recommending 1.5mm-2.0mm TIM pad on the heatsink. Upon reinspection there was a significant gap between the die and heatsink. So I layered 4 0.5mm TIM pads together which filled the gap. Important to fill the gap

Yep I experienced this issue too. Make sure both edges click or you'll be left wondering why your M17x does not boot!

Unfortunetely I used metal screw driver to pry and now right side of panel is not flush Might purchase a new panel after I've upgraded everything plus plastic pry tool.

 

Hey Lozz check out the Fujipoly pads @ frozenCPU they are rated at 6.0 W/mk

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g8/...rmal_Pads_Tape-Thermal_Pad_-_10mm_-Page1.html

 

I know about them, but thanks for posting, I'm not sure they're going to provide a significant improvement over the EK material I have enough to justify $50 worth of pads though. When I finnaly run out I might take a peek.

the PM55 is the chipset, not the cpu. The Moffsets on the cpu heatsink do need 2.0mm worth of pads to make contact however, is that which you are referring to?

nothing, it's there because dell globs on shin etsu micro si from the factory, and it protects against the material encasing the small resistors on the chip. some still manages to make it under the film though, so I remove it if that happens and just be carefull about my application methods.

 

Was anyone looking at the date of this post?? I'd be worried if Lozz didn't take care of the issue by now

Removing the orage tape on the CPU does nothing. most of my chips don't have it.

 

ehahahaha LOL!!!! What is up with the date LOL ehahahaha

Ah woops I was kinda asking Lozz from a different thread I read lol.

Cheers.