Hey I was wondering if the 2960xm is compatible with the R3 motherboard?
Thanks for any help.
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Yes it is. If u have a look at people's signature's here, u'll see many of them have 2960xm with their R3
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I've seen one person with a QS 2960XM, he keeps making new accounts though.
With an unlocked bios and Intel XTU the XM chips can be easily overclocked in the R3. A 2920XM would be better because you'll be paying less for the same chip with a different name. Only difference is stock clocks, but who buys these chips to run at stock? -
Tsunade_Hime such bacon. wow
Different in clocks, but usually the highest end chips are the highest binned chips (best in overclocking, etc, etc). But every chip will overclock differently, so buyer beware.
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
On the m17x R3, because you will be fighting temps with either a 2920 or 2960, i'd probably get a 2920 because its more cost efficient. Going to 4.2+ghz will see the CPU flirting with the 100c barrier. Most of the guys showing 4.4 - 4.5ghz on the R3 can only sustain that for a short time during benching because of temps. The cooling is probably better on the m18x.
If given the choice of a 2960 ES/QS or a 2920 OEM, i'd go with the OEM because it will overclock better
Its too bad that no one makes a custom cooler for the m17x R3, or I would be all over an XM CPU -
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The Revelator Notebook Prophet
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HaHaHa... That's hilarious!
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^ Or would that be considered thinking inside the box?
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haha ok well that was crazy....anyhow, im still price finding for both cpu but i really do like the 2960xm more.
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Now to revisit the issue of cooling modifications, the M18x has a very good CPU cooler, as in its construction is 100% copper unlike the M17x R3 where we have an aluminum cpu block with an inlaid copper block that goes to copper heat-pipes which finally ends in an aluminum heat-sink. This design is less efficient at transferring heat than the m18x, I know that it has been established that the m18x heat-sink will not fit in the m17x R3 but what about finding a custom or modified heat-sink. If I understand correctly, the 2820QM runs 5-10C cooler in the M18x than the M17x R3 and that little bit would give me the confidence that my investment wouldnt overheat.
Any ideas? -
Actually, the CPU block on the M18x is also aluminium. The pipes and contact area are copper, the same as the M17x R3 however, the pipes are shorter thus the heat travels less and is dissipated more efficiently. Still though, why go 2960XM when you can have a 2920XM at a cheaper price?
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
Special_K, if you know of anyone that can supply a custom heatsink for the m17x, I'll be in line to buy one...(well, me and just about everyone else here)
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8 X Copper Heat Sink For DDR DDR2 DDR3 RAM Memory RHS03 | eBay
If we stick all of these over the CPU heatsink, do you think that will make a difference?
I am going to try some very thin thermal pad for the voltage thingies as well. Just wanna reduce temps as much as physically possible.
As for the 2960XM OEM... for bragging rights I guess? D=
Not gonna beat the scores me and widezu have pushed our CPUs for ^_^ -
SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
^^^ I have a desktop that posts mid 50k's in vantage, does that count? lol
Anyways, I would agree, a 2960 is overkill when there is a 2920 which is essentially the same thing for less money -
Well the 2920 is going for $600-650 on ebay. Havent found one anywhere else. I'm about to buy a 2 month old 2960 for $770. Anyone find this to be a dumb idea? Please be honest.
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katalin_2003 NBR Spectre Super Moderator
Me and some other M11x owners have already done this -
SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
^^^^ katalin, can you explain what you did? You put those on the CPU heatsink? how?
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i guess just simply stick them on top of the CPU heatsink but yeah maybe a picture would be extremely helpful! And how many degrees you slashed down also
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katalin_2003 NBR Spectre Super Moderator
Oups, sorry i missed your post, Slick.
They have a sticky double sided thermal conductive tape on the bottom.
What we basically did was trim the small heatsinks to the desired size and put them wherever was possible (near and on top of the heat pipes).
Results will vary from user to user but they are satisfying.
EDIT: here's some guy's result:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/alienware-m11x/585720-m11x-r1-heatsink-mod.html -
Well I ordered mine 2 weeks ago (about 17 days)... have been waiting a while as the cheapest shipping option from China to UK sucks. The copper thingies were really cheap, and if it drops temps by a few degrees I will be a very happy bunny
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Should have got them from Specialtech:
Passive Ramsinks |Specialtech UK Water Cooling Shop -
SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
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katalin_2003 NBR Spectre Super Moderator
Thanks, Slick, can't wait to see your results. If you're planning on lapping the contact area or sanding the top surface, think of grabbing a spare heatsink
I personally bought them from China too for the same reason, wasn't in a hurry.
Make sure to post some photos when you're done. -
I got both the square and bar version or those ram heatsinks, 4 each. Do you think i should try to cram them in as many as i could? And if they dont touch the cover, should i trim them anyway?
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katalin_2003 NBR Spectre Super Moderator
We trimmed them to avoid the contact with the lids and different parts of the system.
But if you can keep them untouched or remove less material, then that's better! -
Just arrived; I intend to stick them like this:
Good/bad?
It seems like x8 is enough, but 2 kits would be slightly better. They are perfectly sized. -
Geocake I'm really curious how that will work. You run it yet and see what temps you get? I bought a 2960xm and want to make sure the temps are as low as possible.
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The same way as it worked here:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/alienware-m11x/585720-m11x-r1-heatsink-mod.html
Just stuck them on (same as picture before) as well as a re-paste and proper clean. It was a really tight fit putting the back panel on but I think I got it.
Before:
After:
I think that is a good improvement for idle temps. Shall I wip some 4.5Ghz pwnage? -
Sweet! I'm gonna have to get some of those. Think it will work the same way with the gpu heat sink?
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katalin_2003 NBR Spectre Super Moderator
Also you can fit another one and a half where the sticker is, near the heat pipes as well as on top of them(heat pipes) if space is not an issue. -
I had no more. I guess I better get ordering!
1000 PriPlane, 7 Flex, 10019 BCLK... 4.5Ghz = I get no thermal shutdown. This means that the mod worked for me. Temps on the first 2 cores are REALLY good. I figured out that I only need 6 Flex for that, more tests in future.
I was able to run 4.6Ghz at 12 Flex but the results were pretty much the same, and core 4 touched 100C but I did not get a shutdown - the first test was good but the second scored lower because the CPU just can't run calcs too well at this temp. Still, I'd say with these little heatsinks I got a drop of about 5C at full load and 1-3C at idle. Without them I was getting thermal shutdowns whilst trying to complete a 4.5Ghz Vantage run, now I can do that easily.
Overall: good investment, x16 of them things are optimum (x2 sets from the eBay seller I mentioned earlier), very easily to stick on, have to be careful when closing the bottom panel.. you might need to sand the copper heatsinks a little, I just forced the panel in.
Joey, there's no need for them on the GPU because it already runs ice cold. -
SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
Nice Geo! I'm all out of Geo reps or I'll rep you again lol
Question: I was thinking about this yesterday: those ramsinks will dissipate heat from the main heatsink into the case. Is this bad or good? That heat has no way to escape. I don't know what the ramifications will be on the other components -
Well all I know is that before I could not run 4.5Ghz on vantage at all since the CPU required more voltage - I would get thermal shutdowns. The best I could do was 4.4Ghz at default voltage (0 Flex).
Now I can run (or complete a Vantage run specifically) @ 4.5Ghz with 6/7 Flex (extra voltage) and even 4.6Ghz with 12 Flex, so it's working.
Yes, the copper is touching the plastic but I am getting results. I think I will order 8 more and cover the rest of the CPU heatsink. I also put 0.5mm thermal pads on the volt thingies. -
SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
Check your plastic panel for burn/melt marks lol
Can you check your GPU for any temps increases? that additional heat will be hanging around inside your laptop. I wonder if cutting some vents on the back panel will help...hmmm, this little project is getting a little larger lol -
Precisely how tall are they in mm?
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The ones I used are 4mm. They too big and they touch the cover.
The perfect size would be 3mm on the CPU area/heat pipe, 4mm on the slightly lower area on the CPU heatsink, and 2mm on GPU.
Dunno about GPU temps, though mine runs cool anyway so I am really not bothered about that, I will test it later though. -
SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
8 X Copper Heat Sink For DDR DDR2 DDR3 RAM Memory RHS03 | eBay -
If these are genuinely 3mm they would be perfect for the area I covered in my previous picture: 5pcs Laptop GPU CPU Heatsink Copper Shim 15mmx15mmx3mm | eBay
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SlickDude80 Notebook Prophet
interesting, but that's a pure copper shim...no heat dissipating heads on them
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That's true!
Then sanding down the 4mm ones would probably be a bit better. Damn, I wish I ordered a lot more now. They are so easy to stick on as well, peel off the sticker and attach. -
I still wouldn't use the actual adhesive on them, I'd wash them off and use sekisui tape. Much better, stronger than 3M and actually designed as thermal tape. But I digress yours look amazing congrats on the lowered temps. I'm gonna go all out and aim for 4.5Ghz under 90C in Vantage.
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Yup, that certainly looks achievable. The whole heatsink covered in copper with that special tape should be pretty wicked. Could maybe even start with a brand new CPU heatsink?
I got 94C on 2 cores, the other 2 cores seem to be misaligned/uneven with the heatsink.
What's sekisui tape and where can you get that from? You know too many things bro, way too many.. -
katalin_2003 NBR Spectre Super Moderator
Best result I achieved was by soldering them to the heatsink (on a HP laptop).
If you think you got that DIYer character, you could sand the top of your heatsink and the bottom of the little ones, 'degrease' both surfaces (with soldering flux) . Place some solder between the sanded CPU heatsink and the small one (as you would do with thermal paste) and heat it up so the solder will melt.
This way they become one and the heat transfer increases.
All this at your own risk, of course. -
@George search for sekisui on eBay and you'll get a few results. I've been looking into this stuff ever since my M15x days of wondering whether an external water-cooling solution is doable using universal blocks. Never got round to doing it but I've always had the idea. I've had all the measurements and listed everything I needed. With the newest radiator from Swiftech, this is achievable but will run me a bill of over £300.
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^ Awesome.
Just another heads up: My temps in GTA 4 are also lower. 74-79C Max whereas every core into the 80s + beforehand - wish I recorded the temps earlier oh well. GPU temps are exactly the same as before mod. -
katalin_2003 NBR Spectre Super Moderator
Every bit counts, Geo
On another note, i'm going to rename this thread with a more relevant title.
2960xm in M17x R3 & Heatsink MODs.
Discussion in 'Alienware 17 and M17x' started by JoeyFUZZ911, Feb 22, 2012.