Alienware M17x R3 460M to 780M - Questions/Concerns

Sweet, downloading now

 

This new 334.67 Beta driver introduces a variety of new SLI and 3D Vision profiles and ensures maximum performance and system stability across all titles.

• Installs new PhysX System Software 9.13.1220
• Installs HD Audio v1.3.30.1
• Installs GeForce Experience 1.8.2
• Includes support for applications built using CUDA 5.5 or earlier version of the CUDA Toolkit. More information at http://developer.nvidia.com/cuda-toolkit
• Supports OpenGL 4.4 for GeForce 400-series and later GPUs.
• Supports DisplayPort 1.2 for GeForce GTX 600 series GPUs.


M17xR3 - Windows 8/7 GTX 780M installation

[Guide] Modding Nvidia OEM INF Files

Display Driver Uninstaller (DDU) V11.1 / first uninstall option (safe mode).


@Amroth Modded Quadro nvdmwi.inf v334.67 AW M17XR2/R3/R4 3D + M18XR1/R2 GTX 680M / 780M SLI

GeForce 334.67 Beta Driver

Modded nvdmn.inf v334.67 AW M17XR2/R3/R4 3D + M18XR1/R2 GTX 680M / 780M

 

1. If I am upgrading from a gtx 460m to a gtx 770m/780m will the same heatsink work?
2. Once card is installed with the modded drivers can u update the drivers with no problems as Nvidia comes out with improvements? or do u have to stick to the modded drivers?
3. Will the fact that my m17x r3 is pcie 2.0 hurt my performance of the pcie 3.0 gpu. or no noticeable difference?

 

Hi

1) You can use the same heatsink, I've used the 460M/560M heatsink on the 670MX which is almost the same layout in chips as the 770M & 780M, you'll just need to move the pads around, and maybe add some more pads in different areas: buy some extra 1mm pads.
2) You'll always have to use modded drivers and will lose your Optimus capability. You'll need to flash a modified BIOS (not VBIOS) in order to install the 770M & 780M.
3) Will make no difference.


EDIT: see j95's post, post #92 for some details on the installation process. (some of that is applicable to Windows 8 though).

 

1. Ok cool.
2. I dont have Optimus because i have the 3d version m17x r3. I am running svi7 a12 unlocked bios.
3. Great!

PS: I will be able to get my onboard sound back after successfully installing the card and the modded driver?

Thks Robbo!

 

@ Robbo ,
How do you use throttlestop for max turbo i see u have running on your machine. And what difference will flashing my ram from 1600 to 1866mhz and how did u do it/

 

Ah, you'll lose your 3DVision capability though unfortunately by uprading to a card that wasn't part of a purchasable original configuration. But you'll still retain the ability of the screen to output 120 frames per second.

That's the right BIOS to run.

About your onboard sound, I've read of people having problems with that. But, it does seem that there is a workaround procedure though in order for it to work, it involves the uinstallation of the IDT sound, and then the reinstallation of it, in a particular order. I think j95 also outlined that in Post #92. (Some people have also full stop been unable to get a 770M to install in an R3, but some people have sucessfully installed it, lots of people have done the 780M in the R3 though). I personally think, both are possible from what I've read.

Throttlestop. Here's the link that describes how to make sure you can run at max turbo forever:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/ali...-2960xm-cpus-m17x-r3-without-modded-bios.html
Note that you want Intel Xtreme Tuning Utility version 2.1, it's not the latest version, but it's the only one that works properly I think.

Flashing the RAM from 1600Mhz to 1866Mhz. There's not really much difference, I just did it because I was curious, and because I could! It increases CPU Physics score in 3DMark11 by 1 or 2%, Windows Experience Index CPU score went from 7.4 to 7.5, and perhaps my system is generally just a little snappier in Windows (probably the placebo effect though!). You've got 1600Mhz, that's about the sweet spot, not many gains above 1600Mhz, but 1600Mhz is a lot better than 1333Mhz. I used this post here to learn a little about how to flash the sticks:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/ali...enchmark-thread-part-4-a-234.html#post8381346
It's using a paid software called Typhoon Burner, which cost me £11. I flashed the Corsair Vengeance 1866Mhz profile to my sticks that are linked in that post. I then used Typhoon Burner to modify the XMP profile for tighter timings at a reduced voltage - originally that profile had them at 1.65V, but I backed it down to 1.6V. Thing is though, it depends on how lucky you are with your memory sticks, they might not run with those tighter timings & voltages. I used Memtest86+ to test memory overclock stability before booting into Windows. If you boot into Windows with unstable RAM you can corrupt your OS. So that's the reason for getting it Memtest Stable before going into windows. It's kind of a complicated procedure, and I learnt a lot from doing it, but to be honest I still find RAM overclocking a little of a dark art, I don't know much about it still!

 

Gotcha thks a million for the info Robbo. Will post my gpu upgrade.

 

All,

Just read j95's last post here on this thread, does 3D Vision work now for Alienware 17xR3 (120Hz with 3D) with a 780M GPU? Or was he just summarizing nVidia's change logs.

 

Actually the latest version of intel tuning utility does in fact work. There was a time when they weren't and 2.1 was a safe bet .. But we are fine to run the later ones now

 

I'm afraid I can't confirm your assertion, because when I tried it it only worked with the version I mentioned in my previous post. If you're referring to the M17xR3 specifically, then I don't see what has changed with mine or any one else's M17xR3 in the meantime. You don't even own an M17xR3 according to your sig, where did you get this info from, and why does the latest version of Intel XTU suddenly magically work on people's M17xR3's when it didn't previously?

(P.S. In my limited time of seeing your recent posts in other threads you do seem inclined to post misinformation for whatever reason, so this doesn't really add to my ability to believe your assertion).

(Also, there's nothing wrong with using the version of Intel XTU that I recommended for the purposes I outlined, so there's no advantage of using the latest version, even if by some bizarre happening that it suddenly now works on the M17xR3).

 

• Performance Boost – Increases performance by up to 19% for GeForce 400/500/600/700 series GPUs in several PC games vs. the previous WHQL-certified drivers (332.21).

• NVIDIA PhysX System Software - version 9.13.1220
• HD Audio Driver - version 1.3.30.1
• GeForce Experience - version 1.8.2

INF naming change/nvdmi.inf.

M17xR3 - Windows 8/7 GTX 780M installation

[Guide] Modding Nvidia OEM INF Files

Display Driver Uninstaller (DDU) V12.2 first uninstall option (safe mode).


GeForce 334.89 WHQL

Modded nvdmi.inf v334.89 AW M17XR2/R3/R4 3D + M18XR1/R2 SLI GTX 680M / 780M



@NomisGnos unfortunately summarizing Nvidia's change logs...

 

GTX 770m was a fail on my computer. I tried all info posted in forms. I think I'll just wait for SKYLAKE as that will certainly be my next purchase and definitely not a DELL computer.

 

Ah, that's a pity! Some users have had problems getting the 770M to work on the R3. What happened to it once you'd installed it, what didn't work?

 

8 Beeps at post indicate LCD failure..put my gtx 460m back in booted fine. Tried to install the gtx 770m many times 8 beeps always..after three or four hours i gave up on it.

 

Well that's fair enough, if you've followed all the guides and information associated with installing a 780M in a M17xR3 (not many install 770M), then I guess it's not going to work for you. There have definitely been more than one report now that the 770M doesn't work in the R3, whereas the 780M does work. Although I've also seen a few reports that people managed to get it to work. I think perhaps for people reading this they should stay away from putting a 770M in an R3 - the 780M seems a lot less problematical! You could always go for a 680M install - lots of reports of that working. Or, you can wait until the Maxwell GPU's come in, but then that's even more unexplored territory as to whether they are compatible with the R3.

 

So could you please sum it up for me?

My 580m died on me recently (volt bios, sigh).

I want to get a 780m - no 3D Alienware m17x r3.
Does Nvidia Optimus still work? (if not, can I switch to Intel on the run, for battery saving?)
Do I need a specific bios?
I understand I will need modded drivers?


edit:
Will I also lose my onboard sound?

 

This link, post #92, j95 offers good instructions on how to do it, and that answers all your questions, you apparently won't lose onboard sound if you follow those instructions, you lose Optimus, I don't think you can ever switch to Intel iGPU:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/ali...-m17x-r3-460m-780m-questions-concerns-10.html

 

Quadro Notebook Driver 334.95 [Alienware] Aftermarket Upgrades Driver Support - Modded INF

 

Hardcore man!

What's happened to my :notworthy ?? No animation on my end...

 

... ...:hi2:


This 335.23 Game Ready WHQL driver ensures you’ll have the best possible gaming experience for Titanfall

M17xR3 - Windows 8/7 GTX 780M installation


[Guide] Modding Nvidia OEM INF Files

Quadro Notebook Driver 334.95 [Alienware] Aftermarket Upgrades Driver Support - Modded INF


GeForce 335.23 WHQL

Modded nvdmi.inf v335.23

 

Hello, thanks for all your help. I just got the GTX 780M for my MX17 R4 and I was wondering was the procedure the same as R3 as I am having some problems installing the drivers,,,

 

SPECS...?

M17xR4 Optimus/60Hz -> flash stock BIOS A11 then follow method 2 A11 unlocked BIOS [M17x R4] - 'unlocked' BIOS versions
- F2/unlocked BIOS -> disable the integrated graphics - Second Advanced Menu ->Video Configuration -> disable IGP -> set display to PEG ->F10 reboot.

M17xR4 3D /120Hz unlocked BIOS not required, just install drivers.

Modded nvdmi.inf v335.23 (M17xR4 included)

 

Thanks for the quick reply. It's the 60Hz one. Can't download the BIOS file from the website.

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I just registered.

 

Installed the driver without the BIOS unlock part. Seems to be working normally. Thanks for your help!

 

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I recently bought a 780M from upgradeyourlaptop / eurocom.
I am upgrading from an Alienware m17x R3, GTX 580M, 3D 120 HZ.

After reading quite some explanations about thermal pads and heatsink, some additional / detail questions came up regarding layout and thickness of the thermal pads. I have seen / read some different stories on the internet. See attached document with accompanying pictures:

Old Thermal Pads:
Do I need to clean my current heat sink of all the thermal pads? So the grey, blue and green(ish).

Thickness is Correct?
The picture I found on the internet shows the same layout, but mentions a thickness of 2mm and 1mm where Eurocom mentions 4mm.
Why is that? Does this have to do with a different type of heatsink? Looking at the picture in this post, j95 mentions a red mark on the side of the card (so not the two top ones). This area is new for me. Do you need to apply thermal pads on this location?

Application of the pads
I assume the easiest way is to put the pads on the GPU and after that screw the Heatsink in place.
I am asking, because I also have seen manuals, where the thermal pads are applied on the heatsink, instead on the GPU.

Application of IC Diamond paste
What application method do you suggest for pasting the GPU core?
I read here innovationcooling.com/application that a dot in the middle and after that screwing the heatsink works best.
But others say the line method is better.

A lot of questions, "Better safe than sorry".
Appreciate a reply.

 

Your green thermal pads are a bit knackered & ripped for your VRAM, so I would replace those. I don't think you need to clean your heatsink where the old thermal pads were as long as there's no gross debris there when you remove them (but it wouldn't hurt), but you obviously need to clean the heatsink where it meets the GPU die. I reused all my old thermal pads that I could, and just rearranged them (and added some additional new 1mm pads where necessary). I don't know the correct heights of the pads required, that depends on your heatsink & GPU; I worked it out by comparing the heights of my chip on my old card with that of the new card, and by assembling it by eye. You do need to cover those 2 chips that j95 mentioned with the red square on the right hand side of the card - although my heatsink only covers the top one of those chips, but I managed to fashion a 'thermal pad assembly of sorts' over the other chip which is a bit botched, but it seems to work at taking heat away from that area and it's been working overclocked for nearly a year now. There's a pic attached to this post showing the 'botch job' I did, which I think your heatsink might have a similar problem area, there wasn't enough room under the heatsink at that point to add a strip of metal underneath and into that area (less than 1mm gap).



I put the GPU pads on the heatsink first, and then screwed it down onto the card (I didn't put the pads on the card 1st).

I used AS5 paste on my GPU, and I used the spread method:
http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/ss/intel_app_method_surface_spread_v1.1.pdf

You'll want to remove the black tape on your GPU heatsink (the black tape around the GPU die contact area).

I have the 670MX, but the chip layout it essentially the same as that of the 780M, so a lot of my experience that I talk about here is applicable to yours.

 

Thanks Robbo,

Some addtitional Q's.

I received the thermal pads to place them on the GTX 780, according to the layout in the attached doc
(the 2mm and 4mm pads.)
I assume that if I use these, I can remove all old pads from the heatsink, isn't it?

There are two areas in the layout of the GTX 780M that do not have thermal pads, why is that?
These do not need cooling?
I am especially wondering about the top part, because it looks like that my old GTX 580M did have cooling there,
seeing there is the blue thermal pad on the heatsink.

You mention specifically to remove the black tape on my GPU heatsink.
This black tape is also around the GPU itself.
I read somewhere that I should leave that on. Is that so?


Anyone who can add some more information on these and previous Q's, I appreciate it.

 

Definitely keep the black tape on the GPU itself, but do remove the black tape from your heatsink.

I don't know which pads you will have to remove from your heatsink to make it fit properly - it's about lining it up on the GPU and seeing where you need to put the pads. If your thickness of pads is uneven or too thick, then the heatsink won't make level or good contact with the GPU core, but if you don't put enough thickness of pads then the chips won't be covered.

The diagram of the 780M showing the chips that don't need covering, I just went ahead and covered those anyway - I don't see any downside to covering those chips. As you say, my 560M used to have those chips covered, so I wanted to cover them on my GPU too.

 

Thanks again.
I do still have questions about the chips that don't need covering. In the following post it is specifically crossed out..
http://forum.notebookreview.com/ali...m-780m-questions-concerns-10.html#post9527443

 

@j95: could you share your knowledge / opinion regarding my questions?
I think you went through various upgrades from 580M to 680M to 780M.
Thanks.

 

Why don't you just cover those chips if you're concerned about them, nothing bad will happen by you putting pads on them, that's what I did.

 

I will give it a try. I just want to prevent mistakes and to do the work twice:thumbsup:

 

Good luck, will be interesting to hear back from you on how it went.

 

Thanks! When I take of the black tape of the heatsink, it looks like some part of the copper of the heatsink will touch the iron rim, which is around the GPU. Will that not be a problem?

 

The chip will be higher than the metal rim around the GPU core, otherwise the heatsink would not be able to make contact with the GPU core right! ;-) Even if the heatsink did make contact with the metal rim I think it would be OK (but it won't), as that part does not carry any electrical current as far as I am aware. (The purpose of the plastic shroud around the GPU core is to protect the exposed points that do carry electrical current, to help prevent shorting). Yes, you definitely want to remove the black tape on your heatsink otherwise it's likely to interfer with the contact to your GPU core - you want metal heatsink to GPU chip contact, not black tape to GPU chip contact - black plastic tape doesn't transfer heat very well!!

 

Clear and understood. Thanks:thumbsup:

 

New in GeForce 337.50 Beta drivers

• Performance - Introduces key DirectX optimizations which result in reduced game-loading times and significant performance increases across a wide variety of games. Results will vary depending on your GPU and system configuration.

M17xR3 - Windows 8/7 GTX 780M installation

[Guide] Modding Nvidia OEM INF Files


GeForce 337.50 Beta Driver

Modded nvdmi.inf v337.50

 

Anybody, let me know your opinion:

After two days having a working M17x R3 with a GTX 780M my laptop returned to old error behavior, which is sudden black screen and reboot.
Seeing I was working on a bit of a "dirty"windows 7 installation, I decided to re-install.
From that point on, more issues, and the main one was that my screen was showing fine vertical colored lines all over the screen.

After that I took out the GPU 780M and CMOS battery, cleared the CMOS and flashed it again to the unlocked A12.
I was able to enter in the BIOS, but in the BIOS the screen showed fine squares, filled with vertical colored lines all over the screen.
That's is why I could not change BIOS setting for "Advanced Menu>Video Configuration>integrated graphics disabled>set display to PEG>"

Now when I reboot, every time I get 8 beeps, means LCD failure, but seeing I don't have IGP could be the card as well.
Card is broken?

Is there a way to Blind Flash with a BIOS where the BIOS settings already have settings "integrated graphics disabled>set display to PEG"

 

Hi all, really desperate for an answer to this as I'm worried I have bought a very expensive paper weight (gtx780M).

I installed the 780M to my M17x R3 last night. Install went well. I am on the unlocked A08 bios as the A12 I found unstable with my CPU overclock (2960XM). I followed the exact steps that j95 has detailed here with the 337.50 drivers on my windows 8.1 OS. I got the sound working fine by installing the audio drivers and enabling the IDT after the 780M was installed. When I try to install the nvidia drivers though by running the .exe from the extracted display driver folder, nothing actually happens. This is despite having replaced the .inf file with the one recommended. I tried running it in compatibility mode and I am making sure that I run it as admin but still nothing. When I initially ran the driver executable, I got the usual message "no compatible graphics hardware found".

Should I flash motherboard bios A12? Can I just do that with the 780M already or will that mess anything up? If I take the 780M out to flash, do I have to put in the old GPU back in (560M) or can I use integrated graphics until the bios flash is done?

I'd REALLY appreciate some help as at this point I'm not sure whether the 780M is working or not.

 

What do you mean nothing happens when you run the NVidia setup.exe file? You are running the setup.exe file aren't you? If you go into Device Manager, is your 780M listed under the Graphics Adapters? If it is listed there, are there any warnings associated with the 780M in the Device Manager?

 

Literally nothing happens. The spinny blue circle starts and then no install wizard appears. I am launching the green .exe named NvCplSetupInt.

In bios it shows under discrete graphics that there is an "Nvidia GFX" graphics adapter but in windows, device manager shows no 780M or warnings. It only shows "microsoft basic display adapter".

 

Not NvCplSetupInt (control panel setup) but setup.exe under 337.50-notebook-win8-win7-64bit-internationa\ .
Display.Driver folder is for replacing nvdmi.inf, remember to disable driver signing

 

Haha, yes, what J95 and myself said: setup.exe! Hopefully will work now.

 

Ok superb thank you both guys. Will try tonight and report back.

 

Thanks for your earlier help guys. Got the drivers installed and the GTX780 is working flawlessly.

3DMark 11 run with the core clock as high as it will let me on stock bios (980MHz - slider can't go any further). Highest temp 68C. CPU at a modest 40, 39, 37, 37 multipliers (24/7 settings).

Score = P 8516
Graphics = 8858
Physics = 8386

NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-2960XM Processor,Alienware M17xR3

I think with an unlocked bios this gpu can push more. The only issue I can see is when the laptop is run on battery, the screen brightness varies by itself from bright to dim in a cyclical fashion. Doesn't happen when plugged in.

 

Many improvements...

 

Excellent, looks like you did good job with the pasting seeing your 68degC. Given your low temperatures and good overclock it might be a shame not to flash a modified vBIOS! Be aware though that it might invalidate the warranty on your 780M if it dies before you can flash it back to stock when you return it. You've probably got a 6 month or 1 year warranty on that part right? If that's the case, then it might be sensible to keep it as it is until your warranty has expired, and then flash the modified vBIOS afterwards. You might see another 10 or 15% performance improvement with the modified vBIOS and a bit of overvolting, so that's your judgement call really.

Are you seeing any throttling on your card at that overclock? If you are, then you'll see a big performance improvement from the modified vBIOS as it removes throttling issues in most cases.

 

Thanks Robbo, yes best temps I've ever had on a laptop GPU. I have flashed many desktop GPUs with modded vBIOses but never a laptop. Tempted to do it. My warranty is 3 months (bought from upgrademonkey on ebay) but they can extend it to up to 3 years although I don't know the prices for the latter.

With the modded bios, apart from voltage control do you get fan control? Currently on MSI afterburner the fan control table isn't available to me to set a custom profile. I suppose this is because the GPU fan header is on the mobo rather than the GPU.

There is no throttling at all in the benchmarks I've tried so far (heaven 4.0, 3dMark11, Firestrike, Valley, Catzilla). I suspect throttling is thermally based. Not sure what temp it would start on but my boost to 980 MHz core clock is consistent and stable. What sort of overclocked core clocks are people getting on the 780Ms? 1100+?