Going price on the r2?

Found an r2 on craigslist without a battery with 920xm, 4gb ram, 4870cf, 600gb HDD. Says it overheats after a few hours of wow. Thought about buying this and selling my m14x r2. Anybody know how much I should offer? Asking $500 and its been up for 5 days.

 

You'll have to check it out first. I wouldn't just buy it. See if they'll meet you somewhere public and allow you to test the system.

Best case scenario, it needs a re-paste.

 

I ended up buying it for $300. I think a good cleaning will make a big difference on this system. Hopefully it serves me well.

 

That's a good deal.

It will likely need new thermal paste, too. Grab some IC Diamond on Amazon. It will be worth it.

 

He actually found the battery and the os and resource CD and the battery actually holds a decent charge for being 4 years old. Also found it has win 7 pro and optical drive isn't reading right now. None the less I think it was a decent deal on this.

 

Apparently 980m's work in the R2.. Imagine that.

 

It would be severely bottlenecked by the CPU. The 680M is the highest card I'd put in the R2, and I don't even think SLI would work.

 

That's a STEAL price! I would've paid the asking price without a doubt! Congrats

How comes?

That's because I'm yet to see an Alienware with modified cooling. You guys play with what you have on your hands and that's it. M17x-R2 has A LOT of potential, one day I'll get one and push it hard.

 

I wonder how hard it would he to replace the heatsinks with radiators and add a pump and run some hoses through this thing. Would have to be some small hoses though. May not could get enough liquid pumped through to keep it cool.

 

I have sometime think about m18x r1 left gpu heatsink , look very the same instead m18x's one is a bit larger. Just have to unsolder it and reverse it for right gpu.

 

For supplementary it's OK, but I wont run it on water alone, since it loses its biggest benefit - laptop.

M18x's left heat-sink is almost perfect fit (left for left, it needs to be resoldered and moved by 1mm to be perfect), it wont be very easy to make it a right one since the pipes are bent like a stairs.

 

That is not why the 980M would be bottlenecked, lol.

The 920XM scores worse than i5 processors. That is why it would be bottlenecked.

 

Have you got some bench with 920xm overclocked to 3.5Ghz or near VS younger cpu ? It would be interresting. It is clearly a botleneck for last gen gpu, but some time ago i was playing with an little pentium dual core e2180 ( 65nm ) oc from 2 Ghz to 3.7 Ghz with two hd 3850s in crossfire. That was running pretty good , near C2D e7400 and other like that.

Yep , i think we have to unsolder it totaly and flip the all 3 pipe. Sticker side will be gpu side, had to resolder heatsink to pipe and gpu plate to pipe. Not a easy task , but i may try when i got money for that.

 

The 680M would be fine. That was my point in previous posts.

 

I believe with proper cooling it can be clocked at (hopefully more than) 4GHz, which should bring it around 47xxMQ level, which wont be that bad. It would still bottleneck, as HTWingNut found out recently, but not as much. Granted it would be a portable oven, but that's the last CrossFire/SLi 16:10 machine. In my eyes it's worth the effort.

What I meant is - pipes are bent in 3 dimensions. Not only the 90º angle, but they are also stepped down from the core to the radiator. Reversed would mean that they'll go up and there is no safe way to fix it, and my guess is that the heat-pipes would concave, which is not something you want. I hope you understand. Still thinking how the right one could be modified.

 

It wouldn't work in the R2. Not in SLI.

I don't even think the 780M's worked in the R2. Had a lot of driver issues.

 

There's always AMD

 

I've had better luck out of the mobile amd GPUs over the nvidia so I prefer to stick with amd on mobile gpus. Don't even know if I'll upgrade. I don't play much of any thing GPU heavy much on laptop anyway. If 4870cf isn't enough may consider going to 7970cf later down the road. Who knows what GPU availability there will be when I decide I need an upgrade.


I repasted using what I have on hand (dynex silver compound) and temps seem better. GPU stayed in around 74 stressed with furmark and my CPU hit 83 on prime 95. I noticed the thermal pad on CPU is pitifully dirty so I will need a new thermal pad for that. Where do I need to get my thermal pad from and how thick does it need to be? I've never bought thermal pad by itself before.

 

You meant the GPU thermal pads I guess? I think they were 0.5mm thick for the RAM and 0.5 to 1mm for most of the power supplying stuff and you'll have to stack some pads for the ones in the middle. I read good stuff for Fujipoly Ultra. Avoid Ultra Extreme as it is hard to deal with That's if you want to spend some money, if you don't, Phobya 5W/mk would do.

 

There was 1 thermal pad on the cpu heatsink.

 

Also it only had two thermal pads on each GPU covering the ram. The other places on the GPU didn't have any thermal pad

 

Ok i see now, i never had an m18x heatsink in my hand so i was thinking there are flat like m17x r2's one.

 

If you have an older rig with dual gpus take one gpu and fan out and put the water pump and small radiate in its place.
Just an idea. Lol
There is this video on YouTube where a guy put an ac compressor in his desktop and made condenser and heatsink and everything to fit inside his case and it worked.

It's called (freon pc cooling) youtube.

 

This is surprising. My brother's had the opposite - no pad on the CPU heat-sink and most on the GPU It was pretty thick, at least 1.5mm. If you get non compressible pads (like Phobya XT, those are hard, don't know how the Fujipolys perform), get 1.5mm to be on the safe side, otherwise 2mm should be better fit. What I mean is, if 2mm is too tall and non-compressible, the heat-sink wont make good contact with the CPU core and would have higher temps. Good luck.

Sadly it is not flat