M17X R4 Upgrades and Compatablility

Yes.

is there something more that needs to be in that folder? Is it suppose to find my original .rom file on its own?

 

If it's not detecting the card you can't flash it.
Try "nvflash.exe -a" (minuscule) List all NVIDIA display adapters found in the system)

 

I figured it out. I FN+F7 to use only the GPU and it found it quick question before I dive into this crazyness.

When you say "nvflash.exe -6 vbiosname.rom"

The "vbiosname" mean the CLEVO name of the .rom file thats in the folder, or just type it as is?

 

Always igpu getting in the way (it's supposed to), rename the .rom file to "80.04.33.00.10.ROM" then paste "nvflash.exe -6 80.04.33.00.10.rom."
Backup first.

 

Thanks much. I'll back(or not) to tell you how it went.

 

Went well, No more limitations on my OC. Booted right up, always a good thing. If I knew how to give you 1+ Rep I would my friend. you have been of great assistance.

last question. Can i switch back to my igpu? Will these setting stay?

 

Good :thumbsup:, settings will stick; different gpu.

 

Good advice, definitely get a new heat sink, 460m heatsink was different from 580m heatsink (maybe I am mistaken). But make sure you verify your heatsink is compatible before the switch!

 

It comes down to heatpad placement I think since the 660M has a TDP of 75W so they tend to get the full size heatsinks.

 

It has already been replaced for almost a week now already. But, to make things any clearer for anyone else. The heat sink that with the 660m work great for the 680m, one or two minor adjustments (adding a few thermal pads, removing some black tape the was one the heatsink) Runs great.

 

I have this excact same problem. I've got the m17xR4, bought it in may 2012. Bought the card through ebay as well, been trying all kinds of driver versions, nothing's fixed it. My screen freezes for a split second and coninues, sometimes the screen goes black for a secon or two, and continues, though my fps is 60 and above. With different driver version I can even make my games crash to desktop with a "driver shutdown error". I bought the correct heatsink for the card, my temps are at max 65 degrees, so it's not a temp problem.

I'm pretty much a rookie when it comes to this, it would seem you found the solution, could you explain to me what you did?? Thanks alot.

And when I say explain, I really mean step by step, since I haven't figured it myself just from reading this thread.

 

My problem was actually caused by my clocks being set to high using nVidia Inspector and on stock VBIOS. I needed to bring my memory clocks down, wasn't running a stable overclock. Once I flashed my VBIOS I was able to run high Core Clocks and Memory Clocks.

Are you overclocking? Does it happen on all games? How long can you play before this issue occurs?

 

Ah I see. I'm not overclocking no, and it happens in all games yes. Well, the glitches begin as soon as I begin the game. The strange thing is, currently i'm running on bios version A11, and the latest nvidia driver 314.22, and with this constellation the games glitch and will eventually crash to desktop. If I run bios version A10 with the drivers from the company, it doesn't crash to desktop, but it does glitch alot like you yourself described, so I thought it was the same problem..

I'm pretty sure I have a software problem, I didn't format the computer when I switched cards, should I do this? I just unplugged the 660m and plugged in the 680m and reinstalled drivers. Should I flash the bios? Should i format c:? Use Ccleaner maybe?

What did you do when you switched the cards?

 

I actually bought the card through the same company as you, great service they offer! Do you use their drivers or Nvidias official?

 

I didn't format anything, you don't have to flash your VBIOS. I flashed my VBIOS to unlock the card so I could get higher clocks out of it. I use the latest 314.22 Nvidia Drviers.

To explain what I did, in a more in depth way than I explained earlier in this thread.
I never uninstalled any drivers at all. It literally was a plug-n-play situation.

1. I removed the back cover.
2. Removed the GPU fan.
3. Removed the GPU and Heatsink as one unit.
4. Unscrewd the heatsink from the GPU and set the 660 GPU aside.
5. Cleaned off all old thermal paste that was on the heatsink, removed the black tape the was on the heatsink die(The die on the 680 is larger than the 660 so this tape needs to be removed from the heatsink. If you did not do this, that could be an issue)
6. Added a few new thermal pads to the GPU. (Alienware didn't skimp out of the thermal pads on my heatsink, so I only had to add a couple more minor ones. If your heatsink only had 2 large pads and you left it that way, that could be an issue)
7. Inserted the new 680 GPU into the laptop.
8. Applied new thermal paste the the GPU die(On the whole die)
9. Removed old screws from the heat sink and using the new screws from the upgrade kit, Evenly screwing the heatisnk down to the new 680.(Following the 4,3,2,1 x pattern to screw it down)
10. Replaced the GPU fan.
11. Replaced the back cover.
12. Boot my laptop/auto detected the new GPU/ auto updated.

I did have to replace my 180w stock PSU for the 240w to actually make everything run properly. (If you are still using the 180w PSU, that could be an issue) I am still running A10 Bios I never updated to A11, as it doesnt apply to me and everything works fine the way it is. (Dont fix what's not broke)

I hope maybe this helps you find something you missed to resolve your issue.

 

Alright, thank you very much for your answer!

I bought a new heatsink to meet the 680m demands before I even bought the card, and I did everything like you did, I also have a 240w PSU. The only thing i'm not sure of, is the tape you mention on the heatsink die, i'll look into this.

By manipulating optimus I seem to be removing the issue, though the glitches are still around every now and then, I really don't understand what the problem is.

 

All the graphics heatsinks are the same, just with different pads on the VRM part to touch the right chips on the PCB, if you got your own and did it, it would be identical.

 

Can I upgrade the CPU that I have, while still using the same motherborad? If so, which CPU would suggest to upgrade to? Where can I find a good seller of CPU's to put into my machine? Any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

Hi there, depends on if you want to play safe or try something faster? Just look at what dell offer and seek out the fastest one they offer. Mine has 3 levels of OC built into the BIOS and runs at around 3.9-4.0 Ghz on level 3.

There is probably an extreme CPU as well that will work and hopefully someone will advise on which one you could use, or see what people are using over on the overclocking thread?

 

Thanks! I was just afraid that I may run into the problem of compatability with my current mobo. I'd like to get the fastest one possible with out having to replace the mobo. or on the other side of things is that little jump worth it? Would I be better off upgrading the mobo and the CPU to get any major gains?

 

No major gains to be had for gaming by upgrading the CPU, and the MB is for the latest generation of intel CPU's so nothing available there (that I am aware of). If you want to burn some cash just call dell and ask what options are available for the fastest CPU, or go through the on-line builder. Anything else is going to be work to get the best out of it but that is the fun for some...

 

Value for money you could grab a 3720qm or 3740qm and add the +400mhz OC.

 

I am looking at the 765m. Its a good bit cheaper then the 680m. I have a m17x r4 upgrading from a 660m. from my understanding the heat sinks are the same just not sure if it is supported or not. Any in site on this guys?

 

765m is not even close to the performance of 680m!
i would suggest a 7970m if you are on a low budget but you might have some compatibility issues, and might have to look for a complete upgrade kit(with heatsinks, x brackets etc)

 

Yeah, the 765M is GTX570 sort of levels just with better ocing capacity.

 

Is the 680m really worth it though? I mean the only full kit I seen is close to $750. Is it really that much better then the 660m?