M17x R2 7970m CrossfireX Ultimate Installation and Tweaking Guide

Liquid Cooled Laptops - Asetek, Inc.

And I sent them a mail to see if they're still selling anything regarding water-cooling for laptops. Let's see what they answer.

 

Nice find @sangemaru It looks to be custom designed for the M18X though with metal pipes so no flexibility. They dont mention anything about that so I wonder if they have a generic version.

Were you sent any of the Heatspring from the other thread to test? What happened there... it seems like a long thread with a few takers but no proper feedback even though the deal was to provide feedback?

No results from the OP as well which is a bit odd. Well none that I could find. I'd assume he'd add it to the first post once complete.

 

Yea, HF vanished about two weeks ago. Never did get to send out the sample to me as far as I know, and I'm not the kind of person taking pleasure in harassing people. Maybe he'll get back to me at one point.
Busy man, busy people, never did end up providing the amount of feedback planned initially.
Reborn got a sample and apparently it performed very well for him, increasing his max OC from 2.8GHz to 3.3GHz (don't remember what CPU or system though).

 

Thanks for mentioning reborns test's. I managed to find his posts here. It looks very promising

Although idle temps are a bit high, but nothing worse than I currently have with my +-2 year old X23D paste job.

 

Implying idle temps are anything but irrelevant

 

Yeah exactly, I'm idling anywhere from high 40C's to mid 50C's (fan triggers at 55C) at the moment which is similar to what reborn2003 reported. Although he was running a totally different chip from an M18x which technically should run cooler.

I dropped him a PM to stop by here and share some info/tips if he has some time. Hopefully he does

 

Nospheratu,
Noob question. I correctly understood as marked on the picture?
Simply I don't want to kill one more psu.

 

Yeah, you're correct. I'll add your text to the diagram. Thanks neklec.

 

Nospheratu,
How you think probably to set the ID chip at the beginning of a cable, not there where it comes to an end? It won't be a problem?

 

BUT, the ferrite thing is to small on the oryginal cable, so you will end up on trying to put that thing in but then you realize it is too small. Only 3rd Party cable that have Bigger ferrite choke is acceptably big to fit the Jack+ID chip IN.

This Cable has a ferrite choke big enough to fit the parts in (Used by Nospheratu as well) and i bought it too, just delivery from Australia took 3 weeks so i could not wait for this part any longer...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390667263520?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

That is why i bought a box and putted it there.

My mod ended up like this

http://forum.notebookreview.com/ali...tallation-tweaking-guide-154.html#post9437055

EDIT:

I really do not see clearly, but just in case you want to Cut the 330W PSU cable - DO NOT DO THAT
This power brick on the photo is a 330W PSU ? or 240W one ? (Almost 150% sure this is 330W one)

You need to destroy only the oryginal 240W PSU, leave the 330W one INTACT bro .....but if you want to....there is an option to add that chip in there anyways....but i would not do that.....

This is what you would want to do tiwth 330W PSU cable



You would have to expose the (usually White color) GND/Negative Wire "-'' in the midle of the cable without cutting it ( except ID line which you have to cut )


ALSO, the mod that @Nospheratu and Me Did, allows you to plug ANY PSU IN, if in the future there will be a Dell 400W PSU - We Will USE IT


sorry for chaotic style, its friday and i am drunk a bit

Nospheratu BrO do you think we have to do a video ?

 

@neklec, you can put it anywhere, it does not matter as long as the connections are done right.

flingin has given you some very good advice there.

edit: if you were intending to do what flingin has posted up in his diagram it will work but you also have to connect the ID line thats going back to the 330W to ground (negative).

@flingin maybe add that correction to your diagram.

Also it will be a bit messy. That's basically the same thing as swapping the chip as its effectively modding the 330W PSU, only the ID chip swap will look neater as its inside the 330W housing. I suggest using flingins mod using a separate enclosure if you feel modding the ferrite choke is too tricky.

 

Did it, LOVE YOU ! -> Too Drunk

And yes it will be messy, that is why i told him not to touch the 330W PSU Cable

Love YOU !

 

@flingin, I think a new post is warranted... you keep editing your post and I have to edit mine lol

I'm also a bit drunk and dog tired so I'm getting a bit confused read one page back then going forward and editing my post trying to remember what you said... and what I was going to say

It would be nice to make a video but I'll leave that up to you Also depending on whether a newer higher wattage Dell PSU needs to drive the line low to unlock the full potential or not we may need to disconnect the ID pin from the negative pins. But I don't think we need a higher wattage PSU anyway I have to really push my system to get a measly 325W draw from the wall.

 

LOL or just plug it to the wall directly

 

You guys are drunk, I'm stoned and watching Stephano on vacation
Lovey-dovey Flingin' is fun lol.

 

StarCraft 2..Yolo

BattleTag flingin#1291

 

Hey Peeps,

Just dropping in to give my quick opinion on heat-spring.
For me this stuff is great because I find myself to be very busy these days and quite lazy also at the same time. So I don't want to have to really open up the notebook and perform a CPU thermal re-paste job every few months or so on.
Now this stuff relys and will work better with more heat-sink pressure. So you will need to be able to screw down the heatsink with sufficient pressure to make sure this stuff works well.
From memory it is also conductive material so you need to be careful with the sized portion that is applied and cut out to the proper size of the CPU die.

In terms of temps they aren't as great as some of the high grade thermal pastes out there however idle and load temps are still pretty good.
Its main benefit that I can see is that it is re-useable and also you pretty much never have to worry about re-pasting again.

If you guys are planning on purchasing some of this stuff I would also be interested. So let me know and I can send in some $$$ too :thumbsup:

Cheers.

 

Good to know chief That makes 7.

 

Thanks for the info reborn2003. Can you give us an average temp difference at idle and load with the best paste you've used?

 

U.S.?
I think I'm Kyuujin # 2828 but not sure. have to check.

 

Wait wait....so if they are not better than icd7 so what's the point of installing this ?

For all of that time I was thinking that they are about 5*C better than a high grade thermal paste....

So ....... ???

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

Sorry double post

 

If they are as good as newpasted CPU, then its better than the same CPU 1-2 months of heavy benching and use later.

I see a problem not with the CPU but the GPU.

I hardly get above 65 degrees with my very good paste not very good burn in for pads on such low temps, but if its not as good in the beginning temps will come normally i guess.

Going to ICD7 will be a downgrade of cooling for me honestly, but i can keep my current paste on the GPU's and use the pads for the CPU, dont need to repaste often with temps in the 60's.

 

The temp difference is around 5 - 10 Degrees C at best. Its not the best for idle temps however its not bad either. For max load temps it does a pretty good job and will hold that temp give or take a few degrees for much longer than any other thermal paste out there. That is its true benefit.

Yup for idle temps you can certainly get lower idle temps with some of the other high grade thermal pastes. Same for max load temps.
However the difference is not that great so you should be set with Heat-Spring long term. Its main benefit is the temps will stay around the same for a very long time without having to re-paste again.

Yup I only use this stuff on the CPU die. For the GPUs I still use normal thermal paste. The CPU and GPU heatsinks are different. I believe the CPU HS gave more pressure than the GPUs HS. This Heat-Spring would work greater with those massive desktop CPU Heatsinks I reckon.
I'm currently using Heat-Spring in my beast atm SPECS below on the CPU and MX-4 paste on my GPUs.
For the CPU it has been running for over 1 year now. :thumbsup:

These are just my small observations. Its been ages since I did that testing on the M17x R2. My main primary intention was to see if temps were still in a pretty good range. If so then I could use heat-spring and just forget about it. Which is what I have done.
If you guys do go through with the purchase it would be great to see a bunch of truly eager testers results. :thumbsup:

Cheers.

 

OK i have a small problem, a BIG problem rather.

I have flashed my Vbios couple of times today, some experimenting.

Now i see i am stuck at 1.075V in 3D Clocks.



i flashed my cards -BOTH CARDS with 0.975V Vbios and flashing went OK, then, i go to the game, want to play some, and voltage goes to 1.075 ?

LOL ?

I tried to Re-Flash and problem stays, is it HW info or what ?

Just checked, GPUZ also reports 1.075V

EDIT:

Reinstalled the Drivers and re-flashed again with 1.05V

Seems to keep it at 1.05 Now...

 

Yea, some times it happens that your volts won't update when switching overclocks too much. Usually driver reinstall solves that.

 

So you are experimenting with higher speeds flingin?`

I find that overvolting the cards is the thing that makes me shut down the fastest even at stock clocks. Currently using stock voltage now and might go lower to 0.975.
Also overclocking the GPU's will also shut me down at high enough levels. GPU clocks both will shut down computer at above 975 and memory at above 1440.

 

Those are already some pretty decent OC's.

 

I know, and also i can not run such speeds for gaming.
For gaming i go 890 / 1290 and it runs very stable.

But a bit supprised about the overvolting thing above stock voltage.

 

Where u find ur info about the R9 290 mobile flingin?

Cant find it anywhere. Do they crossfire/link?

 

Ye i was actually waiting for you guyz to ask about those Mobile AMD 290XM Graphics cards that i am getting soon.

I would love too but this was just a Troll Post

 

Hmm, i do not want to go trough 300 pages and look for it.

Is is always this... Secondary card is about +/- 5*C hotter under load than Primary card ?

Usually i get 69*C on Primary and 74*C on Secondary.

I am asking because i removed some Fins (9 Fins Removed) from the Secondary GPU heatsink to be able to insert the CF cable without bending it too much....

Also i wanted to know that i almost got all parts to do my GPU Cooling mod, i should be able to finish this on Thursday or Friday

Played some Assasins Creed IV yesterday and found that my overclocked R2 can barely keep up the framerate at 30 ( Maxed Settings )

 

Dont remove fins, just make a dent using a flat screw driver, i got plenty room. Its more than enough and i get same temps on both.

 

My second card is hotter than first without removing fins, heh. But Trome is right. Removing the fins will completely mess up the ducting between fan and heatsink and mess up your temps. If you can, put the back and bend them.
Although, 74C is still plenty cool enough.

 

If i at some point tear down the GPU's i will make a photo of how i did it. MY GPU's run so cold that i dont want to tear it just to do it.
The area is already sealed of with the flat part of the fins and since air goes through below that point a dent will not mess up the airflow.
The dent is made without using a hammer, just hit the back of the screwdriver carefully with your hand until it is bent enough. Hold the heatsink towards the plug as if to mount it to check where to make the grove and dont make it to far in either. I think i used way less than 1 cm.

The only small issue is that the fins go slighly appart on the bottom corner when making the dent, so you might have to push the bottom back together and just put a tape around the bottom corner to force the side back in, and you are back to "normal" design.

For me the only heat issue now is that all the extreme overclocking up to temp shutdown limits has started to wear out my paste and i have to repaste my CPU since gradually see that two of the clocks run a bit hotter than the last two. (5-6 deg) I still keep it around 80-83 for the hottest cores during BF4 when playing for hours with 4*25 clocks and 105/90 TDP/TDC. I might however wait until my 920 is in place to test the difference.

 

My second also runs warmer than my primary, not by much though, usually 2-3C difference... and the 35C ambient isn't helping matters.

 

I think all of us are starting to forget how it feels to have a media laptop heading over 90C at all times Heh.

EDIT: Btw, there's 7 persons interested in HeatSpring, and if Pinoy_92 is also interested (he was asking in the HeatSpring thread) that would make 8. We could be getting ready to order soon (although I'd still like at least 2 more interested parties). Btw, if anyone was thinking of getting more pieces and contributing to a bigger piece of the pie, that's also an option. Still no idea who'd be doing the splitting and shipping yet though.

 

I think most of us is in EU, therefore it would have to be shipped to EU.

I can take over the splitting and shipping. No problem.

 

Going via Norway would be a crappy solution due to high taxes.
I can take two if we need more takers.

 

Yep, true.

FYI there is no VAT and taxes in Jersey

 

We're actually going to have to look into that tax thing. Someone sending small envelopes with no value declared (or 30$ declared and insured) from the U.S. won't incur much (if at all) tax when the envelopes reach the countries of destination. Getting a 300$ package in the EU on that 20% standard VAT wouldn't exactly be minor. Of course, this problem would be mitigated if the bundles can also be bought in the U.K. (There was a local representative, worth a try).

 

Try PM'ing AlienHack, he may be interested as well.

 

i don't understand lol.

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Now im on my 920XM CPU.
Nice to see some of the issues regarding my 940 is gone.
When i restart my computer it restarts and dont have to have help from power button.
I also get all ram read out in BIOS etc.-

Running just a quick 3Dmark11 my CPU score is WAY better and only running stock BIOS and 27X, but as expected my 3Dmark other is not even close to my 9400 phyisics score like my 940 had.


AMD Radeon HD 7970M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-950 Processor,Alienware

My CPU repasted almost directly used went to 80 deg flat with those settings.
63 on GPU.

I also see that the 920 idles way cooler than the 940.

 

Most EU countries have a heavy tarif for all shipments from the US. If your package is worth more than $40/€30, you are going to pay taxes. That is why I cant pick it up either, because then I'm hit with anything from a €50 to €100 tax. Now if flingin gets taxed, we can all chip in our portion of the tax, but we need to be ready for it.
Now if Jersey is somehow exempt, all power to you, but I think you might need to have more like 60 pounds on hand when you get this package flingin.

 

im interested, but i wanna know who's going to buy it and how it's gonna be divided.

 

Well, I was thinking once we'd have 10 interested persons we would establish a conference call or a mailing group dedicated to reaching a consensus on who gathers the funds, and who receives and splits the sheets.
It's best if we can divide equally to money paid. For example 10 people @ 30$ each = 5 1-inch squares each.
If we won't have a US person that can pull off receiving and splitting/forwarding the package, then I'll look into contacting regional EU heatspring suppliers and see if it's the same price so that we can avoid the VAT. The good part about getting it in europe is that for most of us this will mean less hassle with customs.
I'd prefer it if I'd pool the money and provide updates of who paid what and then make the order, if only to make sure I know what's happening with the order at all times and can provide update, but if you guys have a specific person you'd rather do the pool, let everyone know and we'll see.

@pinoy: if you want, for example, only one or two pieces, that wouldn't necessarily be a problem but we would have to make sure there'd be someone else to fill in the necessary blank.
I gather there's not many people interested in more pieces than 5, and/or willing to go over 30$ + shipping

I just find that the idea of 5 pieces @ 30$ is a fair price. 30$ would be the price for a good tube of paste, and 5 pieces would be enough to use reasonably on more than one component or machine or to have spare in case you accidentally lose/deteriorate a piece or two. My 2 cents, at least.

It would also be good to know if everyone approves of the 1-inch square form factor. From what I've been able to gather, there isn't a single chip atm that wouldn't be perfectly served by the 1 inch length... the 920XM/940XM is the biggest CPU of the Core i7's multiple generations, and it's a bit over 7/8th's of an inch in length.

There's also 1.5-inch and 2-inch square options, although at a lesser number of pieces for a similar price (but I don't find the point of that tbh).

That's pretty bombin'. So your max temp is 80C? Give it +75mV, raise TDP and TDC to 100 each, keep the multi at 26 to make sure it doesn't boil

 

How many times do I have to tell you I do not pay bloody tax or vat in Jersey lol

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Ah, now I understand. Should have mentioned it's a semi-independent administrative area Yea, that could be a viable option.

 

I DID on previous page BRO