M17x r3 Overheating

Hello all, this is regarding my M17x r3 w/ 16GB of RAM, i7 2860QM, NVidia 580M, and the 3D display. Nothing is overclocked, overvolted, and I’m not running any custom BIOS or VBIOS. I have the advanced warranty, so I’ve had my GPU replaced once, my CPU replaced once, both fans replaced twice, and repasted my GPU and CPU several times.

Also, I’m running the newest VBIOS provided by Dell.

My problem seems to be that nothing is running faulty with the hardware… it’s just that the laptop’s cooling system does not appear to be sufficiently designed to cool the hardware which it contains. Which sucks.

Once the GPU reaches 78C within anything from benchmarking tools (Furmark, 3DMark, Heaven Benchmark) to games (WoW, BF3, Black Ops, Oblivion, anything else) it underclocks to like 58MHz, (from being 1,500MHz) until it can cool itself down to 60C, which then at that point it removes its horrid underclock and resumes the stunning glossy-smooth framerates.

Is there anything that can be done about this? Can the stock fans be replaced with superior ones? I presume this is an abnormal behavior. My worst-case scenario would be to have to get a cooling pad… which I consider to be an ultimate last-resort, as I’d prefer not to.


Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

Well perhaps try a repaste, also prop the back of your laptop on a book or something to increase airflow.

 

I have tried repasting... more times than I can count. Both the GPU and CPU.

As for the airflow, yes doing that does help with the problem, however I feel as though I shouldn't have to bring a book/other propping device to game when not at home.

Looking at your signature I see you've done things to your hardware which would make them generate more heat than mine do, have you had any heating issues with your M17x?

 

Nope although I live in Narnia (London) and it is pretty chilly in da house. But all M17x R3's will throttle at 78/79C we've tried a lot of things to get around that. The only way to truly get around that is to overclock all the p-states of the card. That will prevent your card from clocking down, ever. Which is bad.

 

Ah, I see.

Well, what would you recommend I do then if I didn't want to have to bring a book with me everywhere?


Thanks again, by the way.

 

Well how about these:
Belkin : Laptop CoolStrip
DEEPCOOL - Notebook Cooler - E-GOLF

 

i got a cooling stand
it helps!

so far i have not really experience any throtting but i have also not played intensive games like crysis 2 for more then 20 mins at one shot though

am on m17x r3, 8gb ram, gtx580m and 2820cpu

 

get the laptop cooler...

OR if you have $1.50 you can try these:

4Pcs Ball Leg Pad for Laptop Notebook Cooling Cooler | eBay

i know you shouldn't have to prop up the back, but unfortunately, with the 580 throttling, you have little choice. Simply raising up the back will drop your temps 5-8c depending on factors

 

Sorry for the delays, had a bit of a medical emergency.

Thank you all for your contributions once more!

For now, I'm using my iPad's SmartCover to prop up the M17x. It's sturdy enough to take the weight, and appears to be working fine. Best part is, I usually take that with me, so I don't have to carry around a separate stand.

 

Hi!

As mentioned earlier, throttling is what is causing your problem.

The solution for you i think, would be to try the software called
Throttlestop.
It will give you the abillity to make clocking-profiles aswell, so that you can make an throttlestop profile which you can activate when you're running a game, and don't want the prosessor to drop the clocks to get colder.

If you're having issues with the graphics cards aswell, you will have to flash your cards with an modified vBIOS that will stop the throttling by clocking up all the profiles on the card.

If you google the software, you should find some guids on how to use throttlestop aswell, if you're not familiar or an quick learner. Personally, i haven't messed around enough with it to tell you how to do it.. I'm sorry.


Also, i think someone in the forum has made an guide for this whole R3 setup and mess with throttling and modified BIOS, etc..
DR650SE would be the genious on the forum that i would ask if i were you!
- Scott.

 

interesting, my max temps are 69 so far with crysis 2 and skyrim (same specs), are they going to get worse in time??

 

What paste are you using? Doing anything else or any mods to improve cooling? Those are great temps.

 

That's what the ipad was designed for in the 1st place.

 

nothing! I don't know how to paste or something (big time newbie here ) skyrim never saw more than 62, crysis 2 max 69 (both maxed out in settings), maybe they did a nice job cooling my system? (don't think so) but I am from new jersey and the weather is pretty cool out here already

 

Quick question with regards to repasting. I'm way out of the loop on the current pastes and have always just used Arctic Silver.

Is there something better to use now? What are most of you guys who are re pasting using?

 

Repasted mine with Arctic Cooling MX-2, works like a charm, although i won't say that its the newest, nor the best one out there..

I know there is an MX-3 version out aswell, might wanna try that..

else;
http://www.frozencpu.com/


- Scott.

 

There's MX-4 as well. But I use IC-Diamond. Works well. Performs better than any other paste I have used out there.

 

guys what is your idling temps? I am getting 50-60C, weirdly in skyrim I am getting 62C at most, why are my idle temps so high?

 

How did you apply the ICDiamond-24? Heard it was very thick? Have some enroute to try.

@Riftwire -- Arctic Cooling MX-4 is excellent. Easy to apply, non-conductive and highly effective.

 

LOL. Well don't change anything. It won't get better than you already have. As one who is having trouble getting 580M temps where I want them, I'm envious.

 

I just do the standard line method for rectangular die's. I think it's also the recommended method from IC themselves. Just stick the tube somewhere really warm while you open up your laptop, like behind a lightbulb or some other guy's coffee. Then the paste should be a bit softer.

 

you want to spread it thin over the entire surface of the CPU/GPU die with a credit card. I found it harder and more time consuming to work with.

The issue with IC diamond is that over time, it permanently alters the surface of your heat sink. That is the main reason i won't be using it anymore.

This is what Skinnee, over at SkinneeLabs said about IC diamond and why it was ommitted from his current Thermal Paste testing:

"IC Diamond will only be tested after this testbed is ‘retired.’ Due to its severe polishing effect, ICD is not something I can test 15 mounts of and guarantee that the testbed will perform the same after as it did before (it permanently alters the CPU IHS and the block bases). That said, I did briefly test it while pre-testing for this testbed and procedure and I can say it’s really good with Poor Contact but does not improve much as contact improves, making it just an ‘okay’ paste when you have at least moderate contact, which most CPU blocks, most GPU blocks, and most heatsinks do."

 

here is a complete listing of where thermal paste stands in 2011...

2011 Thermal Compound Roundup – Results Compilation | Skinnee Labs

Look at the moderate contact for what most people will experience

AS5 is now really outdated. It still performs well under the most optimal heatsink to CPU die scenerio, but so do most pastes. Often times though, you don't get the best contact scenerio. Currently, I'm using Prolimatech PK-1 which i have on both the CPU and GPu on my alienware. My temps are outstanding so this stuff is for real. I've also tested AS5, IC Diamond-7, OCZ Freeze Extreme, MX-4

I trust Skinnee 100% with his testing. He is the king of cooling

 

Thanks for that report, I had heard it was tough on surfaces, but had the impression that the scarring was superficial and did not affect performance, but I guess no one has any long term experience with it yet. I have a new shipment arriving today or tomorrow from FrozenCPU with a new load of MX-4 and the small size ICD-7. Temps are higher with my 580M than reported by others, so something needs to be done. Could be a fit problem. Using stock pads so far, but also ordered a sheet of Fujipoly, so maybe that will help. I hate changing pads.

 

did you get the 0.5mm or 1mm fujipads?

 

Ordered the 1.0mm, but already have some .5mm, so will have either available.

 

many people reporting that the 0.5mm pads are too thin so 1mm might be the better choice. I think the stock pads on the 580m are 1mm over the ram and Voltage Regulators

 

The ones I have look thicker, particularly the VR pads, but I haven't measured. The .5mm pads are so thin they're hard to work with.

 

ya, you might have to double up on the pads to match the thickness