M17x-R2 (probably R1 as well) display upgraders, how about IPS :D

Disclaimer (the usual): I'm not responsible for whatever happens to your machine
(the additional): Soldering would be involved.
(the bonus): The LVDS wires are most probably of coaxial type (yours are for sure) so good luck with them
(the downside): G2G - 15ms; W2B - 30ms

What you'll need:
DreamColor display - LP171WU8-SLB1
DreamColor cable - 6017B0236001
Your cable - HP693
Google "LP171WU5 pdf" p8 and p11
Google "LP171WU8 pdf" p7 and p10
Soldering iron and the accompanying materials
Multimeter - so you can check if everything is correctly arranged

Your RGB LED is 8-bit, the DreamColor is 10-bit. You can see from the schematics that it has 4 additional data lines (5th channel (RXinE4-; RXinE4+; RXinO4-; RXinO4+)). So, the theory is - cut both cables somewhere at your convenience, arrange accordingly while ditching the fourth channel, solder and you'll probably end with an IPS

To avoid confusion - your motherboard end to the DreamColor display end, leave the 5th channel not connected.

If someone feels like (s)he has $160 (given that the eBay displays are actual P/Ns and not compatibles) and some time to burn, feel free to share the results

EDIT: Of course this is if there is no fail safe or something like it which would prevent it from working.

I'm just giving you food for thought, I haven't studied it thoroughly

EDIT2: Corrected some information. Also the display size is the same.

 

Thanks for taking the time to share this! +1 Rep

 

If you start leaving off channels parts of the display will go missing.

 

You are mixing channels. There are two types of channels - the main ones are usually listed to denote the data bandwidth (e.g. single/dual/quad (1ch/2ch/4ch) LVDS), which affect the resolution and picture delivery. While the second (those in question) are listed to denote the color depth (commonly referred as bits), which obviously affect the color delivery and reproduction. I hope you understand me, take a look at the schematics of LM300WQ6-SLA1 (Quad LVDS 10-bit) and you'll see what I mean.

TLDR - Both panels are dual (2ch) LVDS and they differ only in color depth (bits, color channels), so removing one color channel should only affect the color delivery and not the picture. Removing an LVDS channel - then you'll get the missing every other line part. Again - on theory it should work, unless there's a fail safe or self test that prevents it from working.

Another example - 6-bit displays have only 3 color channels per data channel; 8-bit - 4; 10-bit - 5 and you can clearly see it from the schematics.

 

cool.... althought i dont know why i would liketo change that jewel RGB led screen in myr2 :hi2:

 

Better viewing angles, no color shift

 

Why not just use some STDP8028 based color mapping board

 

It takes DP input, which you have to get from MXM pins directly with all the fun that is associated with it and the connector soldering (with all the lines, juice as well) - so it's much more difficult. Also it would probably require a driver or something and good luck getting it running. I'm speaking from memory, but you don't have DP pins on the connector, 8740w has.

 

Thread re-opened as requested.

 

Awesome!

Anyways, my question is will I be able to perform this upgrade and retain the 10-bit quality of the screen if I use a graphics card that allows for 10-bit color? For example, I have a GTX 680M (Dell 4GB prototype) that gives indications that it was meant to be a K5000M, and it indeed can be flashed to a K5000M. A K5000M supports 10-bit color...

 

You can't add more LVDS lanes, so only through DP and that would mean playing with the color board as well (also acquiring it, which is near impossible).

I recently found the schematics of the M17x-R2 and I see that there is an eDP. I never saw it when I was playing around with my brother's R2, so I guess it is underneath the black tape, which means that it is not soldered and as it usually goes, the surrounding components are not there as well (filtering condensers, chokes, and some resistors).

It would be quite the soldering to get the eDP up and running. Then you'll need an eDP cable (most should do, since you'll do custom wiring anyway). Then, as mentioned earlier, one must deal with the color board, since it translates DP to 10bit LVDS (also stores display profiles, but that's another story). On a fresh install the DreamColor is recognized as Generic Non-PnP which leads me to believe that it wont work at full 10bits (just guessing here). Only when one installs the Mobile Display Assistant, it is recognized as Generic PnP. During installation, the program checks for compatible displays, and it also installs a driver in the process, not sure if I'll be able to find it. It's best to make the whole program install, since it would give you the ability to switch between color profiles. I'm using sRGB most of the time, but in games (and color sensitive work) I switch to Full/Native for all the eye candy I can get

I'm not saying that it is impossible, all I say is to know what you are getting into. It would be quite the project indeed! Good luck!

 

Thanks for the info! It would indeed be a massive project. I love M17x R2, but I am not sure I want to go through all that to (possibly) get 10-bit color working. It would be great for photo editing and color grading video, but I would be devastated if it never came to fruition after a lot of money and hours of work.

 

Well, that's part of the game Sadly, there's no perfect 16:10 machine. Whatever you choose, you have to tweak it quite A LOT to get a decent outcome. The only two viable options are the ones we both have, both with their advantages and disadvantages. Anyway, I do understand you, sometimes it's pretty frustrating to invest time and money into something and it wont turn-out the way you thought, or it wont turn at all Been there multiple times, I can never settle without trying it first. I have to know the outcome. When it works though, it was WELL worth it!