Pwm bypass switch on 17 r1 - again

Hi there folks!


I would of posted this in the original thread ( Pwm by pass switch on 17 r1)
but to reasons unknown to me it is closed so I will populate this thread list with another one...

Emboldened with the visions of my fellow rangers and empowered by the love of it I have plunged myself to do the same (whoah! am I poetic or what=)

Killing that extra degree of temperature is something we all love.

I did U3 mod and that contraption is a musthave, works great!

Modding My Cooler Master NotePal U3 PLUS


I spent a lot of time looking for the right switch since I wanted the aesthetics as well as the function.

I did not find what I was looking for.

There are just too many of them and none were right.

Too small/big and flimsy, not enough quality in them and I could already see myself redoing it after they fail...I was after something with much more life cycle.

My thought was that it would have to be DPST switch, since that would mean two circuits, when not activated/shorted for full throttle, that would give CPU and GPU their own signals. Maybe I am wrong and splicing them together in one switch is just fine as some did, but I was looking for this option and hence - DPST.

Sourced the high cfm fans earlier and tested them, wire cut, and loved it!

Except the permanent noise - thats what the switch thing is all about.

So heres what I got:



Now, as you can see, its BIG!


So I have shortened it some...


PITA work, DO not do it!!!
Closed it all in epoxy.
Even shortened - its still BIG. It will fit but due to the side of the laptop chassis being angled it protrudes to the keyboard so I had to shave some of it off and when installed, the switch isn't angled so it kind of sticks out. I concluded that its no biggie and went along with that setup.
Making the hole:

I made the hole bit down so that the bridge part would add to rigidity.
But then again, epoxy made sure of that.

The part that led strip lights go thru needs attention so it fits at reassemble.
Now for the detail on the actual button, I had an idea since I have been working on an old watch and had some luminova kit. It ended up being an 3d alien head, lights up very nicely.
I am patenting that one !
MY only concern was will it fall out at some point but the clear-coat seems to hold just fine.

 

Next came the wiring. I used utp cable wires...

That didn't work out well since utp wire is hard, breaks when you repetedly flex it.
THe placing was not ideal coz I had problems closing back cover too.
Also, the fan wires are flimsy and if you are moving them around much they tend to break...
So I found a better one, from some usb mouse docking station...I merged two wires into a pair as redundancy, they are much more flexible, and shielded too...

I ended up redoing the wiring, soldering them to the fans and switch, and fixing them with, what else...epoxy.
Then I got back to dremmeling the chassis to make way for the wire and keep it away from motherboard and else as much as possible...

 

And the end result:


As you can see something odd with my gpu heatsink - its broken!
I am waiting for that all copper one to arrive.

And there you have it - push the button and fans go up to 6100 cpu (4700 previous max) and up to 9400 on gpu (had 3200 max before), with some 10c temperature difference on or off.
Ofc, headphones do the trick noise wise.

 

Nice work.

 

Awesome mod! Just wondering, is there any way to force the GPU fan to 9400 RPM using software? I was able to force the CPU fan to 6100 RPM using Hwinfo64, but cannot do such a thing with the GPU fan.

 

Great work dude

 

Thank you people, I'm glad you like it!

Wasn't sure about posting any of this..but then was so excited how it all turned out and had to share.

Anyhow..the rpm does register hitting 9400 on the gpu fan (or sometimes 7000-8000) but only briefly...
Actual rpm when button pressed is 5900 on CPU and 4500 on GPU as in this hwinfo screen
Don't know if those readings are correct since the fans aren't stock - cpu is some china turbofan and gpu is 17R4 one, those have different voltage or amps than the stock ones so there may be some incorrectness in reporting. Not sure but that might be the case.
THey work well.