Just got my 880M twins!

I meant the scouring pad, I think it's supposed to make the stuff stick better?

Interesting about the bonding. I guess I should prepare myself to order another heatsink lol

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Don't bother with the scuffing pad, just scratches up the heatsink without doing much else. And yes it does seem like you'll have a permanent silver finish on your heatsink unless you sand it down.

 

I wonder if GC Extreme will remove it. I read that it can be used to polish a heatsink then you just run IPA over it to get the rest off.

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Can't argue with a chemist... I'm sure it works perfectly.

All I have ever used for cleanup is alcohol, cotton swabs and a paper napkin and it always works fine for me with all pastes, including CLU.

The scuff pad is for cleaning up the copper plate on the heat sink, not the die. The surface of the die is so slick it is really easy to clean up. Not much will stick to it. The scuff pad does a great job on the copper plate, but it is for cleanup, not prep. The part of the CLU that is left exposed to air can get a little bit crusty as it dries out and the scuff pad makes removing that easy. This last time I did not even need to use it. The silver finish does not hurt anything and it seems to fill any porosity in the copper. I suspect it might improve the efficiency of the heat sink. I am pretty confident does not hurt anything, so I would not even bother with trying to remove that silver colored patch.

 

That's what I was thinking about it. I believe I even read somewhere on the CL website that using other pastes after CLU they're usually more effective because of that.

 

The only reason to remove the silver patch would be if you were to lap your heatsink. Otherwise just leave it be.

 

Not good...

What do you make of this Mr. Fox? I think my CPU core cracked!

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sag...ager-np9377-owners-lounge-25.html#post9724921

 

Hmm, black line on the die does not sound good. I've never seen one cracked before. I would remove that thermal pad. When you put one there on the M18xR2 it has trouble with the heat sink not sitting correctly on the die. I leave it off and Alienware stopped shipping them with that pad back when the M18xR1 was the latest and greatest. The Alienware 18 also does not have it. The heat sink almost touches those components so there is not enough space for a pad.

Looking at your photos it certainly looks like the heat sink and die never came together, so it has be something interfering with the fit. That might have been your problem with temps all along but the ordinary thermal paste was taking up the slack whereas CLU is too thin to put up with an air gap.

I wonder if those c-clips on the screws are hitting on the CPU support plate (threaded stands) and preventing contact?

 

Has anyone tried to make a dual 240W PSU mod for the 17x R4? I have 2 240W PSU's so I was wondering if it was possible to do it by buying the converter box and plug both PSU's in... will I need something else too?

 

I am not aware of anyone that has, but why not just use a single 330W adapter? That would be more than adequate with one GPU.

 

That would definitely be the easiest.

 

I am hoping so. I bought a 330w brick for my Clevo. As you have stated in the past, 230w isn't enough. Think I have found a good setup in XTU to go along with my 880M. However when I tried pushing both at the same time the power brick gave up and the laptop just turned off just like pulling the plug on a desktop.

I have been out of town all week and the new power brick is siiting on my kitchen table.

 

330w is enough for a 4930k and 780m oced pretty much (unless pushing both to the bleeding edge) so you are good

 

This means my 230w brick will be my "travel" power supply. Buwahahahaha!

(Too much work this week...)

 

Well its because I have 2 240W adapters already

 

If I disable SLI and run one 780M I have never exhausted the capacity of a single 330W AC adapter; even with 4.8GHz on CPU and 1200/1500/1.2V on GPU.

That makes good sense. If you get a fantastic deal on a 330W it might be about the same cost as building your own converter box (I have purchased the 330W AC adapter for between $30 and $40). There is a coolness factor to having the converter box that you would lose using an "ordinary" 330W AC adapter. And, who doesn't like having something special?

 

Hey Mr. Fox, have you ever tried using 1 card for PhysX and OCing the other one very high for daily performance? Would that cause such a difference in power drain?

 

No, never have. Don't really see much point in doing that. I almost never disable SLI because I haven't found a good reason to disable it.

The difference is with SLI disabled one GPU stays in 2D mode and draws minimal power. With SLI enabled a pair of heavily overvolted/overclocked 780M/880M can draw as much as 280-300W (about 140-150W each) if you push them hard enough. The 680M can pull 130-140W as well.

 

Eh I was wondering how the power drain on that one would have worked. SLI is detrimental to streaming you see; if that worked great I might've just OC'd the hell out of my primary card for streaming and used the second card as a PhysX card or simply used it to force 64xQ CSAA on some games. Mmmm 64xQ CSAA. There will be no jaggies, friends. None.

Anyway, it was just a thought. I'm gonna just work with Jim to get OBS to grab frames from both cards with game capture in the end, so it wouldn't have been a long-term solution. For some reason game capture with SLI only grabs 1/2 the framerate. I'd need to stream at 60fps to get a 30fps visual =(.

 

I don't know why you have a problem, I installed the GTX 880M in your Alienware M18xR1. Works with any drivers without problems, never drops FPS and the temperature is no more 73C in the toughest games and 3DMark.

 

You put a single 880M 8GB in a M18x R1 and DON'T vsync games and aren't using an air condition and it doesn't pass 73 deg in the hottest games like Far Cry 3? I would like to at least see temperature graph/recording proof.

 

Any recommendations for 880m and Oculus rift? I'm having issues with elite dangerous so not sure if theres any tweaks available that would help me out.

 

Add me to the list because even a 780M would have issues with that load...

Need to know thermal paste (undoubtedly is liquid metal), ambient temp, and any cooling mods and see a picture of the environment. I have the most optimum 880M environment (roommate despises high temps as do I so even in winter we run AC if we have to maintain 70F against our neighbors. ) and they still burn until they crash....

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Nothing on the left nothing on the right nothing in the back, raised off the table by two caps from Walgreens.

 

AC in winter omg that probably qualifies you as an honorary Canadian

 

I've found myself needing to run AC in the winter to keep the house at 70°F or cooler inside. As long as it is below freezing outside I can generally just turn off the heat and have it stay at a pleasant temperature. I'm good with anything between 35 and 50°F inside the house. Temps between 50 and 65°F are tolerable, but 70°F is borderline too hot.

 

Funny, I've never been at 70 deg F before without being inside an AC. I wonder what it's like =O.

 

It's wonderful.

 

Roommate and I settled on 65 but that's a much more wet cold here in Colorado than New Mexico.

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And Mitaya_alba has not provided proof... I see how it is.

 

You sure you're not secretly Canadian? 65 is pushing it even for me, and I lived in Toronto for like 7 years lol

 

He must live up in the Colorado Rockies.

 

I gonna put my 880M's for sale (half price) if someone is interested

Need to get the 980M's for my clevo..

 

XD! Good luck getting them sold. Maybe some single GPU notebook users might bite... but I doubt it. 780Ms are far more in demand

 

The maximum temperature for all tests and games 73C. In room 27-30C, I use ic diamond, no cooling no. The temperature of the GTX 880M max 72C, CoD AW.

 

And how far is your 880M throttling to get those temps?

 

I have not changed anything.

 

To be fair that is what most users will see as it will still be around 780m levels

 

AW doesn't make your GPUs hot. Go play BF4 on ultra at 150% resolution scale, or Far Cry 3. That 880M will bake chicken for you.

 

You mean like this



or this ?

 

Here are my photo.



Everything on ultra.

 

That cropped screen shot doesn't really say much. Amongst other things one example is if vsync is on that will curb temperatures since the GPU's only have to do a lazy 60fps, rather than go for broke. Ideally you want to take a screen grab that shows your GPU clocks.
Not trying to pick on you here, if you're happy who cares. But to accurately compare all it to all the other users who've found major problems with thermal/performance throttling you need to compare apples with apples.

 

okay, but I said Advanced Warfare does not make a GPU hot. Try it on BF4 or Far Cry 3 with max graphics (as I wrote in the post you're quoting) and see if it still remains that cool.

Or play Paranautical Activity without vSync on. See how hot THAT gets you.

 

Here 3DMark.

 

3DMark 06! Are you kidding me?

 

Anyone know why my 880M sale thread keep getting deleted in the NBR Marketplace subforum? Tried to make it three times now but when I check in 24 hours later, its gone.

 

You keep posting things that aren't the games that I'm saying make a GPU hot.

 

Here Far Cry 4 settings on Ultra. Max 75C.

 

Will you show a sensor grab from Hwinfo64? We can actually see what frequency the GPU's will be running at throughout the game.. Run the game and give us a screenshot of that..

 

How to do it?