I am using one like this one BRÄDA Laptop support - black - IKEA.
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Hey guys. I just "upgraded" from a M17x R3 to a M18x. The graphics horsepower difference between the two is insane!
I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I'm looking to get one of those L-Shaped adapters for the AC plug. I was able to obtain one for the M17x, but it doesn't seem to work correctly.
Does anyone know where I can order one from? Thanks in advance! -
TheBluePill Notebook Nobel Laureate
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What kind of "L-shaped" adapter are you looking for? Are you referring to a right-angle power cord or an adapter that fits on the tip that goes into the laptop port? Can you post a photo?
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Mine finally shipped today. I'll either receive by next week Monday or it'll take up to six weeks...
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Attached Files:
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Thanks, Keith. Assuming it works correctly, I would love to have one of those for the M18x and the M17x R2. I have never understood the logic of having the connect sticking straight out of the back like they do. I certainly takes up unnecessary space that way. I have not seen one that works with the M18x or the M17x R2 and don't know where to buy an adapter that does.
Do you know what brand your adapter is?
Edit: I just Googled LC90B and found lots of hits... maybe one of the links will turn up something that will work. Not sure this will work for the M18x or M17x R2... probably exactly the same part you already have, Keith. LC90B from Bixpower - LC90B | dell power charger -
Thank you Mr. Fox. I have the stock Dell 330w adapter that comes with the M18x. I tried the one in the photo on the M18x AC Adapter, and while it fit perfectly, I got a message at startup about the adapter not being the proper wattage. That leads me to believe that it can't deliver the proper amount of power for some reason? It worked perfectly fine on my M17X R3 with the stock 240w adapter.
I don't know how many of those L-shaped adapters out there are actually capable of supporting the power requirements of a machine like this.
Us M18x owners are a special breed. -
On the subject of the power adapter, is there a shorter version of the section of power cable that plugs into an outlet? I am mobile with my M18x and this section of cable is quite long and a bit bulky and heavy, it would be nice if there was a 3 ft. version.
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TheBluePill Notebook Nobel Laureate
Power Cables & Cords -
I put my fat M18x power cord in a drawer the day I unboxed it and haven't used it since. I am using a power cord for a desktop PSU and it is much more user friendly. If you don't have a box of spare parts, you can buy an ordinary ATX PSU power cord for less than $2.00.
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Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk -
steviejones133 Notebook Nobel Laureate
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TheBluePill Notebook Nobel Laureate
Really though, at 330w, it is less power than virtually every desktop PC on the market for the last 30 years. Even 18awg cabled power cords are more than enough for the power brick. Heck.. the cable that ships with the M18X is thicker than the cable that came with a 1,300w power supply i put in the other day. -
Well, whatever the reason might be, using an ordinary ATX PSU cord certainly has not affected my benchmarks scores or ability to draw adequate power to the AC adapter.
There is nothing particularly wrong with the stock power cord, other than it is not very travel-friendly because of the bulk.
AgentVFX - the Lambo decals are nice. Where did you buy them?
The eye-catching Acer Ferrari never lived up to the name in performance; but the Lamborghini motif seems to be appropriate for the M18x. It certainly is top of the line in looks, build and performance. -
TheBluePill Notebook Nobel Laureate
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I always thought the M18 looked like the Reventon. -
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Guys I need some help, badly! Ok well I start to put my Intel 520 ssd inside my M18x and when I was doing this the orange tab came out. Now I'm unable to detect my Intel 520 ssd inside bios; nor can I detect it when I want to re-install windows on it. Have I broken it, will I need to call dell technical support to get a technician out to fix the issue for me?
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TheBluePill Notebook Nobel Laureate
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steviejones133 Notebook Nobel Laureate
If it is the ribbon cable, that would explain why the drive is not getting detected as technically, its not even plugged in. You could try removing the ssd from the interface (bottom pic,2) and making sure that the ribbon is correctly located in the port on the mobo (top pic, 3) and is secured properly with its clip. It's easier to do it without the drive attached as you can manoeuvre it alot easier without having to worry about damaging the interface or ribbon cable itself.
If its the port that is on the mobo (top pic, 3) that has come off, I would imagine you would need a new mobo.
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Make sure in step 3 (first picture, 2823 post) that you pull the tab up so it's in an unlocked position, slide the ribbon back in and then push the lock mechanism back down, I used a small flat head screw driver to push the lock down, does not need much force. It's easy to panic when you first see it.
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steviejones133 Notebook Nobel Laureate
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The actual black interface that sits on the motherboard is still there. It's just the orange flap that came off. Will my computer still work or is there a way to make it work or should I just call dell to fix it for me and just tell them my hard drive just stopped working and as a result the orange tag fell out for some strange reason :/ Will this void my warranty because I paid for their top-end warranty for 3 years (premier warranty).
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steviejones133 Notebook Nobel Laureate
If you look at the top pic #3, you should be able to make out a small black clip on the port - this lifts up and down (up to free the cable and down to secure it in the port) ad if all that's happened is that the ribbon cable came out of that port/socket, all you need do is re-insert it and re-secure it.
It wont void your warranty - chances are if you damaged the ribbon cable/interposer in any way, you might need a new one which Dell would send you. Not really a job for a tech as its so simple to just retro-fit it yourself.
If there is no damage to the cable/interposer/mobo port you should just be able to reinsert it and you should be golden. -
I would sincerely like to thank you for replying to my message. I thankfully got it workingno harm was done and I'm seriously on top of the moon!!!! For a moment there I thought I damaged it and that it wasn't going to work but for now I'm awesome haha
Also really like to thank tanderson as well you 2 are legends and I wish I could buy you both beers to say thanks!!!! I really do mean this. SO so so so thankful right now -
Can someone explain to me why when I installed my Intel 520 240gb ssd and installed windows again that came with the laptop. It said I only had 160gb left from 223gb. How can windows take 63gb??? Is this possible?
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it doesnt. run disc cleanuo and remove SP1 backup files. also empty the recycle bin. make the page file smaller and make the recycle bin reserve smaller
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Did you get that problem as well with it saying that it installed 63gb? -
steviejones133 Notebook Nobel Laureate
Also, if you cloned your original HDD to your SSD, did you have much stuff on it? - that may account for the lack of storage space. Did you do a clean install to the SSD? - if so, windows shouldnt take up that much space even with SP1 backup files ....and I also assume that you have a Windows 7 SP1 disc that shipped with your system - hence no reason you should have to clean up SP1 backup files in the first place as suggested above, as you would never have had an OS without SP1. -
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That probably includes your windows backup files, disable backup if you want will free up disk space (nice to have if you have any issues with windows updates).
Virtual memory can take a huge chunk, be careful with that, depending on how much memory you have, you can drop that.
Couple other things you can do to trim it down from 60 to almost 20 if you really want it running that streamline. There might be some people out there that can help you with these settings or google them, you'll find them fairly quickly -
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steviejones133 Notebook Nobel Laureate
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TheBluePill Notebook Nobel Laureate
I installed Win7 Pro on a intel 520 (240gb) drive and it did the same, took 63gb. I installed Win7Premium on my 256gb M4 and it took only 30gb -
Hopefully, you installed the OS with the BIOS in RAID mode rather than AHCI. If you did, when you buy another Intel 520 240GB SSD to match the one you have, you will not need to reinstall the OS. You simply use RST to create the RAID0 setup from within Windows.
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steviejones133 Notebook Nobel Laureate
Regarding TRIM, right now, your single ssd will benefit from the TRIM command - currently, TRIM is not available for raided SSD's but Intel will have a new version of Intel Rapid Storage Technology (RST) Driver out in the not too distant future that WILL support TRIM for raided SSD's. Until that time, those with raided ssd's rely upon garbage collection (GC) that maintains the drives when idle.
As you have only just installed the OS, it would be advisable (before you get too much stuff on the drive) to simply just "prepare" yourself for the possibility that you may get another 520 at some point. That means re-installing the OS but doing so under the RAID setting in bios - then when you get another drive, you wont have to reinstall all the stuff that you are about to put on your new single ssd, simply use RST to create a raid array and it will do the rest for you WITHOUT you having to re-install everything AGAIN from your single ssd setup.
Make sense? -
But don't you have to set up your raid pre boot up, in the raid set up (ctrl I?), which would wipe date. I have a sneaky suspicion you will have to wipe your data if you set up a second drive in raid zero.
And with Mushkin, I'm sure they're all the same, you will need to do a secure erase of the ssd previously used to clean it up or you might have left over data from the previous install, before you set up a new install, such as the raid 0. With sdd's, you can't just copy over the previous install. -
Having the BIOS set to AHCI is not necessary for a non-RAID SSD to use TRIM. TRIM works perfectly on my system with the BIOS set to RAID.
Switching the BIOS from AHCI to RAID (or vice versa) will prevent your system from booting. It does not destroy data. If you switch it back, it will boot fine. I have done so more than once without a problem. The last time I did so was to update the firmware on my SSD, as it cannot be installed with the BIOS set to RAID.
Creating or breaking a RAID array will destroy the data, so to upgrade to RAID0 when a second SSD is added, a OS reinstall will be necessary if Windows was installed with the BIOS set to AHCI. The best solution that I have found to work properly is to leave the BIOS set to RAID regardless of your drive arrangement. Then, you can create the RAID0 array in Windows using Rapid Store Technology.
It is recommended by Intel that the BIOS be set to RAID even without a RAID array, and Dell and other OEMs do so. I've not found a good reason to use the AHCI setting in BIOS. -
that was my point, you won't be able to set up a second ssd in raid without wiping data because you have to set up the raid before the os boot. (in the raid config)
Garbage works with most ssd's in raid and trim will work with 11.5 rst in raid was the last rumor I remember hearing... -
Johnnyboy0022 - here is a thread that covers a lot (if not all) of what you are asking about: http://forum.notebookreview.com/ali...on-questions-troubleshooting-discussions.html
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*OFFICIAL* M18x Owner's Lounge Thread
Discussion in 'Alienware 18 and M18x' started by BatBoy, May 4, 2011.