I was playing h1z1 at max settings for 6 hours straight when suddenly my laptop shut off, immediately after that smoke came out on the left up side where you plug in the ac cable into the jack.
I open up the laptop and instantly saw the burned spots, at first i thought my dc jack went bad and needed resoldering.
I knew before my card was always reaching 90+ degrees playing h1z1 but i kept on playing anyway cause there wasnt much i could do. I bought these cards 3 months ago new so there was no dust and the repaste was very well done also
To bad for me![]()
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WOW!!! Really?! I thought temps. aren't that high on 980m. On my 6990m in crossfire after re baling and new thermal treatment temps at ULTRA BF4 1920x1080 on overclock at 750/1100 don't pass 80 degrees Celsius after few hours of gaming.
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Wow, 90+ temps is hot. Before one of my 980m died temps never got above 65. You were running way to hot. Hope your still under warranty.
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Not sure I'd be blaming the 980m even if it was running at 90C, you probably got a Mobo with a low quality/faulty component that shorted out. Fingers crossed you didn't damage anything else!
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crap...I need to check under there I guess..I think I popped one in the area too. Does your mobo still work?
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The motherboard is dead, ive ordered a new one today on ebay, fingers crossed its a working one.
As for my master 980M ive cleaned everything the best i could, i cant really see any difference with the slave one with the naked eye so i really hope its still in working order.
Fingere crossed
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There are a couple of guys here that would be interested in your broken motherboard
... check the marketplace.
It's a way to get some money out form this accident if nothing else
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They are most interested in HDD ribbon cable.
And never allow card to exceed 85C. It will die. -
wow i have never seen my 980m(s) reach 75 even with 3dmark firestrike extreme in 30 mins, however my old 880ms can easily reach 85 and even 90 for long duration of benching
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If you was willing to part with your old damaged card I would be willing to buy it, what would you sell it for if you wanted to sell it? I'd even be interested in your damaged board to, I have a cousin that is pretty good at repairing things, the board I doubt he can fix unless I knew the exact part that fried (I'd have to look at another board to get the new components) but he's been able to revive them in the past for me, he might could fix the 980 to not sure, depends on how bad it was damaged.
Last edited: Jun 23, 2016 -
When you get your other one up and running, make sure your using hwinfo64 to control the fans on your laptop as well, mine stays about 75c under crazy load, just need to disable the battery in the sensor list so it will prevent the locksups and you'll want to set the fans to auto launch at bootup as well, if you need help let us know.
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i also use hwinfo to blast the fans before i load up intense games...it helps alot...i use mine on the bed 24/7 so i have to prop it up on some 15mm externals
where is the battery sensor setting in hwinfo? -
Should be in the list of sensors, look for the battery in their and right click on it and disable it from monitoring it, it causes random lockups with HWINFO
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What are you running 980Ms in?
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Is your damaged board a M18X-R2 one? if so those fragile plastic clips from keyboard connector and the HD connector needs to be salvaged and duplicated in a 3d printer and put it for sale. Those parts cannot be find anywhere and likely could be good demand for it.
Good luck, I hope all will work again with your new motherboard.Last edited: Jun 24, 2016 -
m18x r2
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My new board is here finally.. !!!
There probably wont be A12 Bios on it
So i cant run the board with the 980M'S
So what is the best thing i can do ?
Should i Start up the laptop without the 980m's and install A12 ?
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That's a laptop with actual OC support and good cooling hardware + fans.
Compared to the AW18 lol...twin snakes likes this. -
Its back alive !!
Just what i expected A10 bios
Reflashed to A12
Going to try my lovely cards now !!!
Lets hoooopeeeee !! -
yes you're right, it's a very respectable machine, with continous support from community, m18xr2 imo is the best alienware laptop out there
so sad I have to sell it in order to fix my fk car -
Both 980m work or 1 die?
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Nice, you got an early release mobo with the DMC slot and power buttons on the PCB, too. That one will likely be more durable than the first, unless your original was also an early release version. You can put a USB card in the DMC slot. If you get the dual port type with cables you can route the cables around to the bottom side near the ODD bay and access them with the bottom cover removed. That would give you two internal USB ports to use with flash storage or transmitters for wireless peripherals.
Mini PCI-E PCI Express to 5-pin Dual USB 2.0 Adapter Riser Card Extender
Last edited: Jun 27, 2016 -
WTF......... I have never seen an Alienware 18 with a physical DMC slot intact. I feel so ripped now...they took it off for absolutely ZERO reason. Bastard child that is the Alienware 18.Mr. Fox likes this.
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Really? All of the first revisions had that. I was shocked the first time I saw one that did not have it. They took it off probably to make an additional 50 cents profit, and I bet they saved an extra nickle for each of the power buttons that they eliminated. The original revision has a power on/off switch on each side of the motherboard, which is a really nice feature if you are working on a machine with the palm rest removed.
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Both cards running at full speed again !!
I am so lucky
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Left one is my broken board and also has the DMC slot so probably the same i think.
Where are the power buttons located at the A18 board ? Can't seem to find them and it drives me crazy..
I took it 4-5 times apart today to check everything and it was such a pain in the ass working like that..Mr. Fox likes this. -
Look near the memory slots on the edge of the motherboard near the battery. It's a small square metal piece with a round button (all silver). The button is about the diameter of a #2 pencil lead.
In this photo is it at the bottom edge right in the middle near the right edge of the RAM stick on the palm rest side.
In this photo it is in a similar spot on the opposite side of the mobo and you can see it right under the shadow of the battery cable.
Trulyfatal likes this. -
double-post
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Too bad dell killed the machine
Such a beautiful device
- gimped by EOL, bios, slow fans, MX throttle, and power delivery
@Trulyfatal - how come your "burnt" 980m still work?
EDIT: prevent another burnout
there's vrm chip on the back of cpu socket, get some thermal paste and make contact with a part of the chassis
http://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/...X-VAS10-02-LA-9332P-REV-1-0/32255889599.html#
There's also a pretty nasty gap between the fan and the heatsink fins, I suggest you also fix thatLast edited: Jun 27, 2016 -
The heat came from my master 980M and burned the plastic right under it causes my motherboard to burn..
Now im thinking should i remove this plastic or not..
Anyway my cooler is connected again to the laptop and should prevent another burnout. Before that i i forgot to connect it because i was gaming the day before with my cousin in the kitchen and dit not use the cooler.. -
replace plastic with thermal pad
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Are you serious ? Remove the plastic and cover it all up with one big thermal pad ?
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it would be somewhat better, yes.
since thermal pad is more resistant to heat compared to plasticTrulyfatal likes this. -
Are you using HWINFO 64 to control your fans? I also use SVL7's vbios it helps keep the temps down to. Glad your cards are alright, that one burn area had me a bit worried. Actually I'd hold onto your bad board, you can always send it to a repair shop and have it repaired or keep it for extra parts in case yours ever has problems, yours looks different than my mobo, this is a M18xR2 as well? I also keep my plastic where it was (not sure if it makes a difference but mine is a black thicker plastic and isn't clear like yours), I'm just paranoid and check my temps a lot to make sure they are good, hottest mine have got is 75c under pressure.
Last edited: Jun 28, 2016 -
Someone on here was complaining about high temps and I suggested elevating the back of the laptop and they said they would never do that, that wasn't you was it?
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-ultimate-cooling-mod-to-end-all-cooling-mods.586490/
Btw, 680M SLI at 1006Mhz core 1.050v going on 5 years.
Elevate or die. -
Looking at my last post, I apologize for seeming so negative. Have you replaced the mobo? Were you running manual fan control and elevating the laptop? If not do so this time around.
Mr. Fox likes this. -
Love the CF trim, where did you get it?
Well looks like I'm going the single 980M route, I hope the overheating isn't due to the large passive VRM cooling backplate on the 980M.... -
The overheating is due to the obscene voltage nVidia assigns the 980M. Under boost clock speeds expect the voltage to jack up to 1.0625V, which translates to about 140W of power usage under load. Mind you the M18x was designed in mind for 100W cards. 780M was a 120W card, but it could be slightly undervolted to bring it back down to around 105V. 980M has no undervolt capability without extensive BIOS modifications, so trying to cool a 140W card with a 100W heatsink is a disaster. You need aggressive fan control, excellent quality thermal pads, and the best thermal paste possible to keep it cool. If anything the copper back plate would help reduce temperatures, as it gives the heat more area to disperse.Solo wing likes this.
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Damn, what about increasing the thermal mass of preexisting heat sink?
With those fans at 3700 RPM the heat coming out isn't that great, I bet more heat conveyed to the terminal find array via some thin copper strips simply fashioned in place with thermal tape would help in this regard. Is there enough space for this?
Doesn't Prema's vbios allow for undervolting?
I think this issue would be worse with a single card configuration as it would be at 100% load whereas 980M SLI the cards would probably see no greater than 50% load the majority of the time at 1080m and 60 Hz. (Except playing Skyrim with 100 mods lol).
What is the wattage drawn of 680M at 1.050v? I've been here for a few years now. I assume it's not 140W.Last edited: Jul 15, 2016 -
Nobody has been able to figure out undervolting with nvinspector on Maxwell, mobile or desktop. It has to be hand edited into the vBIOS and mess around with hex tables, too much work for the average user, and Prema no longer is releasing anything thanks to a couple scumbags.
Any game will change load depending on how it is coded. Obviously the higher the load, the hotter it's going to get. 680M was not a full core chip, hence why the power consumption was less than that of the 780M. 780M was the full kepler chip, and the 880M was an overclocked 780M. 980M is not even the full maxwell chip and still gets to be ridiculous on power consumption. the mobile 980 draws north of 200W -
what happen with prema that he stop releasing stuff for free? -
For now, he has not planned any future public releases
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only through resellers then?
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Not sure, he didn't specify other than no public releases at this time and going forward
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That's really sad for Clevo and 980M owners
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Sorry wrong thread
Attached Files:
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Not really. He doesn't charge re-sellers anything, its up to them to charge you for the mod or give you warranty for the same.
But some people from the community do get direct access to his mods. Its just not as public as it was before, but for good reason, and specially because of a recent event, i doubt there will be a public release anytime soon.
my motherboard couldnt take heat of my 980m's
Discussion in 'Alienware 18 and M18x' started by Trulyfatal, Jun 21, 2016.