So I've done a repaste a bunch of times on many laptops and desktops, this is by no means a failed first attempt. Temps were OK the first time I did it on this m15, but I wanted to try some thermal pads from Aliexpress since I always thought it was a website with fake items due to them being so cheap VS Amazon, newegg, etc.
Basically, booting windows or running any program or benchmark will result in loud fans and soon after a automatic system shutdown if I don't turn on Throttlestop asap to underclock + undervolt. Normally after a very long gaming session, 90C for each core and 80C for GPU would be normal, but I can't even do any benchmark test due to feeling like I am hurting the hardware.
I used Sk0b0lds guide for info on the thermal pads, but since his was a GTX1060 GPU I think it varied a little bit. Upon removing one thermal pad, I noticed ALL of the thermal pads still had their plastic covering on them on the HSF side. Visually I could see there were differences in heatsink thermal pad sizes between mine and what his measurements were. I trust Sk0b0ld way more than I do a human that thinks its ok to build a laptop without removing the thermal pad plastic.
Screws 2, 3, 4 on the CPU HSF don't screw down all the way. Sounds like a wrong sized thermal pad right? I took all the thermal pads off and it was still not tightening fully and I was still getting dangerously high temps. I tried about 3-4 different thermal pad/screw turning methods and all of which showed the same results.
I think I just may have bent the heatsink too much while removing the very hard to remove plastic? I tried conductonaut and Kryonaut, both showed the same temps.
Could it possibly be the LM stain on this heatsink? It seems like LM doesn't want to stick to it anymore but that is why I also tried Kryonaut. But afaik, it doesn't make the heatsink unusable, it just makes it have a stain. In this pic you can see the plastic on every single thermal pad.
Also, from what I saw, this HSF has the model C1 on it and there is some B model HSF which is newer and better, so there's that.
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illuMinniti Notebook Evangelist
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Last edited: Jan 18, 2020 -
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You need to use a 800/1000 wet sandpaper to remove that liquid metal stain, or a scotch bright pad(like the ones used to wash dishes) and clean it until your heatsink is nice and flat, the stain will still be there, but it must be flat.
illuMinniti likes this. -
illuMinniti Notebook Evangelist
I just think its beyond disrespectful to anyone that bought one of these laptops without an extended warranty, not knowing their VRM chips, memory chips, whatever other chips/fuses are potentially blanketed by plastic instead of a thermal pad's, potentially degrading performance and lifespan. -
That is definitely odd but who initially did the repaste with LM and the pads. It’s a huge mistake of not removing the plastic off the pads. From the pics the LM has completely dried and there not even a hint of being wet still. I applied LM to my 13R3 and after a year it was still wet in certain areas.
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illuMinniti Notebook Evangelist
I did the LM repaste, but this pic is after wiping off the LM so it didn't get all over me while removing the thermal pads. They're gonna send me a new HSF, but I figured if I could save them the bs and save myself time from waiting I would.
But I don't like how they aren't even acknowledging the plastic. I've heard from posts and stories sometimes people have 1 piece of plastic left which is a mistake. But every single one of them? -
illuMinniti Notebook Evangelist
Just a update, a Dell tech brought a new HSF and everything is good again. It's crazy how slight bending (unknowingly) of the HSF can cause such drastic temp changes. Even when eyeing it up and laying it down on a flat surface, it didn't look unusable or too bent considering the CPU has 4 screw contacts for pressure. But it must have been that
Extremely bad CPU temps after m15r1 repad + repaste
Discussion in 'Alienware' started by illuMinniti, Jan 18, 2020.