Killer wireless 1202 Disconnection Issue [Help Mr Fox! :) ]

Alienware 14 (but same problem with all aw with this card).
Killer wireless-m 1202


Sometimes it just disconnects
I know it s a common problem, but can t find solutions.
OS is not important: i have the problem with every os i tried (Windows 8-8.1-10)

 

Are you installing the Killer Wireless Suite? If so, use the Killer Cleaner tool, wipe everything out and use Device Manager to install drivers only. Use the "Have Disk" method and browse to the extracted file folder.

I have Killer 1202 in three machines and it works flawlessly this way. With the software suite it does not.

You can download what you need from my Google Drive [ Download Killer 1202 Files]

 

tnx!
I m not using the "Killer Wireless Suite"
can i buy another wifi card ? Do you know a 100% working card with alienware 14 ?

tnx again, and good gaming!

 

Killer and Windows 10 don't get along all that great either. There is a memory leak issue there.

 

another card ?

 

I have found Windows 10, especially TH2, doesn't do several things well and WiFi is one of them. The Killer 1535 in the Sky X9 works amazingly well under Windows 7 (super fast), not as fast under Windows 10 (I am dual booting). I just "upgraded" to Windoze OS X TH2 and found it has new issues that don't exist with Windows 7 or 10.

The options are pretty limited for mini-PCIe WiFi cards. My 1202 cards all work flawlessly with 7, 8 and 10. Maybe yours has developed a problem and needs to be replaced. How long did it work well for you? Did it suddenly stop working well? If you don't care about Bluetooth, grab an Intel Ultimate-N 6300.

 

Tnx for the reply

mine never worked well
i read it was a common problem for aw 14's owners (the same 1202 card working flawlessly in other notebooks and giving random disconnections in aw 14 while under heavy load)
kk, i ll check Intel Ultimate-N 6300, but if i have to change it, i would prefer an AC wifi card

 

Whatever you do, don't get a Broadcom AC card... horrible piece of garbage if the one I have is representative of the lot.

 

Which Broadcom is it? A 3x3?

 

The only wireless 3x3 minipcie wifi AC card is the AW-CB160H, with a broadcom chipset and a different style of antenna (you'd have to get a MHF4 to U.FL adapter). I personally haven't tested it, but I've never had issues with broadcom cards, intel cards or (most) atheros cards. For whatever reason, the Killer branded cards are typically bug ridden (in my experience).

That being said, Intel 6300 ftw. If I didn't have OSx86 development, I would be using intel cards exclusively. Close second would be Atheros, since they have open source/frequently updated drivers. Broadcom would be my last choice, since their drivers are closed source and NEVER get updates.

 

Nope, this piece of garbage... never, ever could get it to work correctly all of the time. Whenever it felt like it, the thing worked fairly well. But, frequent dropped connections and slowdowns in performance, WiFi and BT randomly disabled and difficult to re-enable and drivers for it are an absolute mess. Stay far away from the Broadcom BCM94352HMB. I have WiFi behavioral issues under Windows 10 that do no exist with Windows 7 or 8 to varying degrees of stupidity with every WiFi adapter, so we can blame that on Micro$loth incompetence.

 

I have a Sky6 and I use a realtek card and it NEVER disconnects from my old DARK KNIGHT ASUS router.

 

Just get a new M.2 card for WiFI.

 

The 1202 has incompatibilites with some older routers/AP's, but you can reduce the issues by setting up the router with WPA2/AES encryption, after updating the router/AP firmware.

Also if the router is set to 802.11b/a/g/n, try setting it to 802.11n only.

If you have a width setting, try setting 20mhz or 40mhz only, instead of 20mhz/40mhz.

The idea is to explicitly set the protocols/settings to fixed settings, rather than letting the router/wifi card automatically pick it - the older routers / 1202 might not negociate the best settings.

Another setting to play with on both router and wifi card is to disable WMM if it is enabled, or enable it if it is disabled.

WMM should be enabled, but some older routers don't interact well with some Wifi cards with it enabled.

Also, check your Wifi landscape, who else's AP/Router is on the same center frequency/channel? Channel 6 and 3 are most used, and often you will find everyone is on the same channel, and by moving a few channels off, your drop outs will disappear after removing interference from other routers/AP's on the same channel.

You can use several Android Wifi tools, or on PC the older version of inSSIDer is still free:
http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html

Please come back and let us know what settings / changes helped.

 

One needs to have an M.2 slot to use an M.2 card. Totally different form factor than mini-PCIe slot.

 

your X9 doesn't have one ???

 

Yes, it does. But we were taking about the OP issues on the AW14, the Killer 1202, and the Broadcom card I was complaining about and pictured in the post you quoted is also not M.2. The AW 14 does not have M.2 as far as I know.

 

well there are things you can set in device manager on the cards too, to stop disconnecting, like switching to UDP or setting the packets to like 1350 or such depending what your doing, or trying half duplex..

 

Oh well, in that case, yeah, I see what you mean. Disconnecting might even be a power thing, trying to save power, putting the device to sleep, theres at least 4 places that have to be turned off to make sure it doesn't do that.

bios, device manager in advanced tab and on power management, and then again in the alienware OSD application ACC/powermanagement section for link power state and such..

then theres actual connectivity things to play around with too. Buffers too large, some settings too aggressive, IPV6 uselessness..

then you have your router/Hub/Switch/hotspot's settings and how it handles leases/DHCP.. etc..

The sheer number of things that could be affecting connections is a list that can go on for days...

 

@woodzstack - Off topic - but, something you've noted in your big thread for GPU upgrades... another casualty (and maybe the first Eurocom Panther) you might want to be aware of [ LINK]

 

Thanks. Friggin genius for showing me. Been warning people for months, regardless which laptop. My buyers have for the most part listened and been safe.

 

EVGA will fix the issue if you can film reproducing it. You'd potentially be saving consumers world wide , tons of grief. Seeing as you have everything you need, and are capable of doing so, you should do so in debpth if you can actually reproduce it, safely on this CLEVO. most people are not able to rewrite the EPROMs on the LCD's so easily, but you sure seem capable of it.

 

I wouldn't go further than enable/disable WMM on the Wifi card side... as I recall there are a lot of options, and I did play with them.

The main settings on the router/wifi card for a steady connection are 802.11n, WPA2/AES, 40mhz, and WMM enable/disable.

You can't switch to UDP from TCP, they are distinctly different animals. You can change NFS mounts from UDP to TCP for long distance WAN connections on unreliable networks, but the UDP/TCP protocols are functionally different.

Power is another matter. If you are on the border line connecting to the router/AP due to interference, physical obstacles, or distance, then bumping up the power on the router, say from low to high might help - not sure if the 1202 has power settings - it might be worth checking out.

And, power saving needs to be disabled in the Power Plan, as some report drops during idle - the driver turns off the wifi - dropping the connection - to save power. You can turn power saving off in the Wifi Device Manager Properties too.

 

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produc...cm_sp=Homepage_BS-_-P10_33-106-240-_-01052016

newegg has a new WIRELESS card.. i.e WiFi +BT +WiDi AC speeds 800MB+ for like 20$ or something.