*** Windows 10 + NVIDIA WHQL Drivers are Killing Alienware and Clevo LCD Panels ***

@Daniel1983 - good point about the thread getting attention. I just updated the thread title to help distinguish that this thread is not a place for open discussion about Windows 10.

New title: *** Windows 10 + NVIDIA WHQL Drivers are Killing Alienware LCD Panels ***

Should also have a more desirable effect on Google Page Ranking.

 

355.6 seem to be working great for me on witcher 3

 

Working great on the Alienware 18 with 880M SLI and Windows 10?

 

Yes

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

Just deleted off-topic posts. Please refer to the thread title.

 

Another LGD02DA (LP173WF1-TLB3).

It would work again, yes. Could be an automated tool, no user intervention required. Same as the ' autoread_edid', except this time writing, instead of merely reading.

Not terribly so. You'd short-solder the proper pins on the eeprom (or have someone do that for you). Look at the back of the lcd, near the connector:

Yellow circle is the eeprom. It has tiny markings on it (part nr.) and a small circle/dot; this is pin #1. Now, search ' part nr. xyx' + ' pdf' and you have its spec. sheet. Example:

So short pin #7 and #8 (big blob of solder would do) and this chip is read-only, with the emphasis on 'this chip'. They're not all wired alike; some use different pins. But all of them can be set to read-only by shorting just two pins, only need to know which two pins.

Not 'read-only' per se; edid is written to chip after soldering. These things are designed to be written to, but it needs a software 'write' command or, it seems, if wired incorrectly then random signals can cause writes as a by-effect. This last scenario is the most likely cause here; if it was software-only, then all Dell+LVDS+dual gpu+W10 systems would have bricked panels by now ...

Write access is possible with eDP, only more complicated. Mind that all four panels reported so far were LVDS, even the 120Hz LGs (2nd post needs an update).

Hmm, that's unfortunate . Curious as to why Legacy would fail ... does Dell provide non-DOS flashing tools? If so, then perhaps Windows PE and flash bios?

 

Not terribly so= waay above & beyond my skill set comfort. Wouldn't mind paying someone local to do this for me properly; but no clue where to even start looking for someone who can apply that fix.

 

Okay, okay . Granted; the average computer 'repair' shop person has never used a soldering iron before ... Windows install + hdd swap, that's about the average skill you'll find there.

If there's no hobby/diy/train shop, then ask tv-repair service. Just tell them, say, ' bridge pin #3 and #5 with wire' and a minute or so later and it's read-only.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong please - Does that mean if the above procedure is followed our LCD's will be "Win 10" proof?

 

You stand corrected, sir. You'll become immune to wintencite A but still vulnerable to other forms and it will infect any other internal display you connect. It can mutate thanks to Update too.

 

i am currently running on a 18 with 880m's and geforce v353.62.
i reverted back to win7 after reading about the troubles with Win10
could it be that some problems are left behind after the upgrade from win10?
am i at risk?

if so should i update to the newer geforce v355.6?

I am writing this from my still working 18(fingers crossed)

 

Edit: @NiveQ You should be ok if you can cold boot without being connected to an external monitor. When you revert back from Win 10 to the previous OS, as myself & others discovered nothing works right. It's very buggy; your best bet would be to format & do a clean install IMHO.

 

That is great news. thanks! <3

What drivers did you use. Normal ones from Dell? http://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/19/product-support/product/alienware-m17x-r3/drivers

Thanks again

Kristian

 

I don't want to go to far off-topic in this thread, as this is not really relevant. I'll answer your last question here now, but PM me if you want any more info.

Mostly I'm using drivers that Windows 10 automatically installed, the exceptions are:
-Alienware Command Center for M17xR4 Windows 8 version
-Windows 7 Alienware OSD driver from dell website for M17xR3
-NVidia driver (latest downloaded from NVidia website - I have a non-standard card so it is immune to automatic Windows updates to the card)
-Intel Rapid Storage Technology driver 12.9.0.1001 Windows 7 driver from Intel website
-IDT Sound driver downloaded from that post in my last post to you.
-Intel Management Engine Interface Driver 11.0.0.1157 downloaded from Intel website (I think this is the latest Win10 version of this driver): this one was needed to keep GPU in x16 PCIe state (was occasionally dropping to x1 on a cold boot before updating to this driver).
-I don't use Optimus, so no driver installed for intel GPU
-latest Killer Networking Wireless driver from Killer website

Everything else was automatically installed by Windows 10.

PM me if you want more info

 

Based on what we saw with others that didn't take cleanup measures far enough, yes you are still at risk.
How I would handle it...

• Flash System BIOS**
• Flash vBIOS
• Secure Erase OS Drive
• Clean Windows 7 or 8 Install
• Disable Automatic Windows Updates
• Apply ONLY Critical/Security Updates up to December 2014 (or none at all)
  
• Use a GeForce Driver version never intended for Windows 10 (344.75 or 345.20)

**If you have a Haswell machine with BIOS settings stored in NVRAM, before flashing the BIOS, I would dump the NVRAM. Here's how you clear the CMOS on a machine cursed by persistent BIOS settings stored in NVRAM. Pull out all the system memory and let the machine beep until the machine reboots itself, then quickly (while the machine is momentarily off) slap in one stick of RAM and when it restarts you will have 5 beeps (memory error). Hold down the power button. Power up again, then flash the BIOS. Put back all of the memory sticks, then set the date/time and any custom BIOS settings, save and exit BIOS.

Bookmark this for future reference: **Alienware 17 (Ranger) /18 (Viking) Owners** - How to 'Un-Brick' Your Mobo

As a safety precaution, go to church on Sunday and pray for forgiveness for installing the Windows 10 Anti-Christ Ameri-Nazi/NSA Trojan OS.

 

Yes.

Another option is to buy non-Samsung/LG for the replacement. However, with the 18.4" that is not possible; only one RGB Led panel and while there are a few Chi Mei's for the WLED, these require swapping wires in the lcd cable and would be pretty awful anyway, compared to the Samsungs.

Thinking of wires ... there might be an even easier method:



Depends on the implementation, but if the lcd cable of the bricked systems has a wire on the WPN pin then cut that wire. No soldering necessary; nail-clipper or scissors, that's it.

There's that, too, but with bricking impossible there's not much chance you'd ever need to replace it again.

You make it sound like a virus btw ... which is true, of course.

 

Does this apply to just 18 inch panels or 17's too.
I have a win 10 "infected" 17 inch 120Hz LCD I can try it on if you "show" me how, I have nothing to loose

 

Yes, every lvds panel that uses wp pin (not all do). This is the LGD02DA (LP173WF1-TLB3), right? Have spec. sheet, so that's easier.

Make good photo of the cable at the lcd end plus connector of the lcd itself and we'll see what's what.

 

After installing Windows 10 I can not install the Geforce driver 355.60.

Nvidia made any public statements about this issue then?

Alienware 17 with 970m.

 

You want to destroy your display so much? Install it then.

 

Dude stay with a driver older than 353.62 till we are sure it is safe to go forward

 

Haha relax.

I'm covered with my warranty.

Apparently it won't let me install it.
So right now I guess I've "upgraded" safely.

 

Since 970M or 980M was never an option on the Alienware 17, they only shipped with Kepler GPUs, a driver INF mod is required. Did you mod the Windows 10 INF file to add the hardware ID, then boot Windows 10 with Driver Signature Enforcement disabled? You have to do both on Windows 8/8.1/10 or it will not install.

For anyone willing to risk the damage that may occur with Windows 10, this is a good idea. Sticking with Windows 7 or 8/8.1 is a better idea, and the only safe option until this problem is resolved permanently.

 

I'm on the R2.

Windows 10 was automatically suggested on a new boot of my system.
Figured I'd install it and see what happens.

That latest driver won't install.
I get an error message stating compatibility issues.

Perhaps Nvidia have done this to prevent future installs.
What worries me is what if I'd done it prior to upgrading my OS.
Would I have received the same message?

 

Double post.

Just discovered that since upgrading I've now lost all sound.

This is priceless..... guess I might be using my warranty package on day 1

 

@Caladdon I don't meant to sound rude, but what does your sound going out or not being able to install a certain driver have anything to do with the bricking we are experiencing?

 

Hey @Mr. Fox , what was the last driver made for windows 8.1 only?

 

Good question.
I'm basically on the look out for any other potential issues that may occur with the process of upgrading OS.

Sounds back on with a reinstall of the soundblaster software.

 

@Mr.Fox, my LG pannel is gone.. Getting 8 beeps.. No idea what to do.. I've had enough of AW with this ****..

@t456, anything can be done to fix this? I really don't have any funds to get a new pannel.. Strange thing is I did a full erase/format of SSD(not a secure one though) and have recently flashed BIOS and VBIOS...

@mariussx how are you able to boot into windows with the hdmi cable? I am in dedicated mode and when I connect HDMI cable and try to boot, just get 8 beeps... This all happened when I switched to dedicated mode... If I can boot into BIOS and switch to optimus, might go some way to having a usable computer... I am on full UEFI mode with Secure Boot and Legacy disabled and 8.1... Damm NVIDIA and damm Microsoft...

 

Hey @Caladdon , do you know which updates I should remove from Windows 8.1 in order to get rid of windows 10?

 

Sorry to hear of this Brother @TomJGX . Windows 10? If not, what version, latest NVIDIA driver and Windows Updates?

Please send the email to Alienware mentioned and post #2 and post your experience in the GeForce forum at the thread linked in post #1. Again, very sorry it just happened to you also. I want to cry for you, man.

 

Hey new hot fix driver for win10 355.80. Any voluntaries?


http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3738

 

Doesn't seem to be intended for this problem.

 

I had installed Windows 10 but like I said in above post, since my 970M died an got replaced, had wiped (during windows install, formatted) and went back to 8.1... I think my fatal error was switching from Optimus to Dedicated mode.... Had got some shinny new Kingston Hyper X RAM which fixed my beep POST errors due to unmatching RAM sticks... I've had enough of Alienware with this... I can't even boot to desktop with HDMI cable even though I have full UEFI and have legacy disabled... I thinking of dumping this R4, gettting a barebones P771ZM and moving to Clevo... Had enough this.... I will send email and post in forum tomorrow (too depressed and need to do something to calm down now) and will call Dell and see if they do something (doubt they;ll do anything as warranty is out and Windows 10 was not supported...

Do you have any suggestions about replacing the display? I can only think of finding and replacing whole assembly, how can you just replace display? I need some help around this Mr Fox if possible as my skill level is too low for all this crap.. New display is like 60 pounds, assembly is like 150 for normal and 250 for 3D.... Thinking that instead of wasting more money on this POS, might as well get a Clevo which doesnt play such crap... Worst time ever for this **** to happen.. My last month of freedom before full time work has been ruined by all of this... Don't even know if my parents will help me with this or not...

 

So, similar to what happened to @Arestavo it sounds like. I thought I was going overboard with diskpart cleaning, secure erasing and flashing, but apparently not. I hope my staying with 345.20 and having Windows Updates disabled keeps me from ruining my replacement panels.

The display is an easy bolt-in part. I am sure someone here can help you with that if you cannot find instructions. If the M17xR3/R4 is made like the M18xR1/R2 it is not difficult. You want to buy one with the aluminum frame and Gorilla glass, not a bare LCD panel.

One like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Alienw...embly-FMKP2-/121616273661?hash=item1c50e510fd

Not one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/17-3-Laptop...ware-M17xR4-/360789638289?hash=item5400bcfc91

Please send the email to Alienware with all of the information after you have calmed down.
Bummer. Sorry, bro.

 

Maybe this video can help.?.

Fast forward the first few minutes of boredom; it gets much better with good instructions.

 

I was also in dedicated when the corruption to lcd firmware happened. I managed to get it to post by multiple cmos resets the first time and then enabling UEFI in bios, it also automatically switched to Optimus (that is when it posted). The second time I enabled legacy trying to boot a dos pen drive and got 8 beeps again. This is what I done to fix it again:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...nware-lcd-panels.779449/page-82#post-10072365

I am waiting for someone with a working LG LP173WF1 TL B3 to post their EDID, so I could attempt to flash the screen firmware back to what it is supposed to be.

Also there are instructions how to remove the LCD assembly in the service manual for R4. To open it, you have to undo 2 screws near the hinges and the whole back cabinet slides up. You the. Have the access to lcd cable and connect another screen.

 

I've upgraded Windows 8.1 Pro to Windows 10 five days ago before i even found out about this problem. I didn't noticed any kind of problems in work/gaming. But after i've read all this i don't know what to do. To go back to Windows 8.1 or continue to use Windows 10? I've tried yesterday to use option go back to windows 8.1 from Windows 10 recovery but i got message that i can't do it because i'm missing some files. Is it safe to do clean install Windows 8.1 or damage is already done after update? I mean if Windows 10 changed something in firmware i suppose that will stay even if i install Windows 8.1. What is safest option for me? I'm using 780M SLI and 353.60 drivers if i remember correctly. I didn't update anything after upgrade because i just wanted to test Windows 10 and from start everything worked without need to update.

 

i'd buy a cheap 8.1 pro key and upgrade from there

 

Hi, I understand your concern as I am in the same boat as you. What I did was do a Windows drive reset which deleted everything on my OS drive and then reinstalled windows 8.1. I am currently using the 352.86 driver as it is strongly recommended to not use any windows 10 drivers at the moment. Disable windows updates as well cause a "windows 10 ready device" is still at risk even if you are using windows 7 or 8.1.

 

If Alienware won't play ball ... since you're in London; ship me the panel and you'll have it back next week. Can even test it; it's compatible with my AUO. Only need to remove the display assembly, see mariussx's description for that.

The edid posted before is also from an SLB3, but there's been four revisions, hence the difference with the spec. sheet:

Mine's the ' B0' checksum, so the second-to-last. Only difference with checksum ' AF' is the label. Also ... wonder what would happen if you'd pull/cut pin #5; SLB5 and my AUO both have it non-connected. Or, failing that, even disconnect 4+6+7 as well ... old WXGA Samsung didn't even have onboard edid; it pulled this from bios (also Dell).

 

what to do with my AUO panel: buy an inverter board and use it like a secondary display OR donate it to someone to test if it breaks under win 10?

 

If you can, it would be great to donate it to someone so as to speed up the investigations. Alienware and Nvidia are taking way too long in my opinion. Speaking of Alienware, @Mr. Fox , have you got any good news from Dell?

 

Nope. Nor NVIDIA. I don't think it's fair to say they are taking too long. It could be accurate, but we have nothing to base that upon other than how it feels on our end. They have to reproduce it, isolate what caused it, then develop a fix for it. They may be working on a repair procedure of some sort also. We should not expect a play-by-play report from them. It would be great to have some answers and a solution soon. I hope we do. I doubt Micro$lop or NVIDIA will raise their hands and say " our bad, guys... sorry for the hassles" even when we do. I expect little or no technical disclosures in the end, and probably only solutions.

 

Oh okay, I just resetted my OS drive and reinstalled windows 8.1 as well as disabled windows updates so I am not "windows 10 ready" anymore. I am running driver 352.86 as it was made for windows 7 and 8.1. Would you reckon that's enough for me to be "safe"? I hope the fix comes as a sort of windows update or nvidia driver hotfix, would be nice and easy.

 

Yes, only need an adapter board (and 12V psu). Might be a good idea to have it as a backup, anyway ...

 

I'll hold onto the old panel for a few days after installing the new panel. The idea of a ghetto panel sounds awesome but I am ok with donating so long as the receiver pays for shipping.

I'll see.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

@Mr. Fox, @t456, @mariussx , I managed to reset the CMOS and managed to boot.... Used HDMI cable...

Big problem is that although Intel iGPU/NVIDIA GPU work, I'm in Optimus and I can't get the resolution to go beyond 1024x768 in the Intel control pannel... I just can't even There is just no option... I can't even get the games to go to 1920x1080... Is this normal with the burnt out pannels? @Daniel1983 and guys is this what you saw with your burnt out pannels?

@Mr.Fox have sent email to Dell guy and posted in NVIDIA forum...

 

Did you do this reset through Windows? Or did you do a respawn? I'm trying to figure out what to do as well. I just heard about this HUGE problem that so many folks are having. I, in fact, upgraded to Windows 10 nearly three weeks ago and have yet (knocks on wood!) to experience any problems. I will receive my Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD from Amazon today, and was planning on attempting a factory Alien Respawn on to that drive, or just booting back W8.1 Pro 64 clean; then installing the nVidia 352.86 driver you suggested. Thoughts? I really appreciate your time in answering.

 

Hey there, actually I used the windows 8.1 CD that came with my AW and from there on I went to recovery and did a windows reset (selected the drive that windows was installed on ,C drive). It took about 15-25 minutes to complete. After that I installed the 352.86 driver and disabled windows update so as not to be "windows 10 ready". I too have used windows 10 for a little over a month now, was part of the technical preview and then installed the official version. When I rolled back to windows 8.1, I was still "windows 10 ready" and was using the 355.60 driver too. I never encountered a single issue during all that time, did notice a few bugs here and there in the technical preview but nothing in the official build. It's a random bug so you never know when it may bite yo ass which is why I decided to roll back. I would suggest you to start clean and install win8.1 pro again. If you have any other issues, I will be more than happy to help