first copper mod on m17x

my gpu was running to hot due to the upgrade of my qx9300 because I use the same thermal pad for it temperature was 60c idle 89c playng games for like an hour but I found out browsing the copper mod" is a copper sheet you use to replace the thermal pad I cant found copper no where went to lowes and buy a piece of 1/2 inch pipe cut it and straigth up with pliers sand it with 1000 water sand paper polish it up with mothers aluminum polish until was shine I did the same to the heat sink I apply arctic s-5 to cpu and gpu apply as-5 to heat sink on the chipset side and stick the copper shim 1mm tick after sand it down put the laptop together and now my gpu is 45c idle 80c loaded I recomend if you want to do this keep the thermal pad in case you have to revert the mod to get waranty

 

the gpu and cpu are seperate. i have yet to exceed 75c on my gpus and cpu with cpu oc'd to 2.93. im not sure why you are using a thermal pad for the CPU as well. use some artic silver 5 compound of ocz freeze.

 

I hope even if you did add copper to the CPU heatsink that you still used some sort of thermal compound and not just metal to copper with nothing inbetween ?.

 

if he did metal on metal it would be through the roof


even through all the jumbled english i could tell


the copper mod was lucky to work ..... you need a already perfectly flat piece .... but good job and you for some reason have higher temps then me or any one else

 

let me explain better I use copper on the gpu with as-5 on both sides and the cpu only as-5, and sorry for my english I learn just looking forums

 

you reply this at 1:00 am do you sleep?

 

i don't think he does.

 

Well he could be in a foreign country like me....on the other side of the world it is like 8PM here loool....

 

He's not outside the US.

 

nope i work till 1 am some nights some nights i don't sleep at all

 

Do you milk cows for a living?

 

So do we get to see a picture of the copper mod?

 

I am not going to take my laptop apart to take a picture but you can watch this thread is similar http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=268081

 

The copper mod is used for when the space between the chip and cooler is broad enough that a TIM would become inefficient and you are forced to use a poorly conducting heat pad. Adding a copper mod where it is not needed will not necessarily be a good thing and as Moo hinted at, may worsen your cooling.

Reviews point to the cooling on this laptop already being superb so I would venture to guess that a copper mod is unnecessary on this model.

 

that is right did you take your laptop apart yet? there is 1.5 mm. gap on the integrated video card they use sponge thermal pad also can you explain why I am getting -10c temperatures after the mod?

 

I see, I don't yet have this laptop (should ship this week hopefully) so have not been able to take it apart.

1.5 mm seems like a rather large gap (way too large).... I would believe .5 mm

And if you temps did improve, then congrats!

 

well the shim I use was 1mm. thick plus the compound is about right but maybe more maybe less the point is if you upgrade your cpu why don't do nothing for your gpu 10c less is very good, one more thing you don't have to worry about jumping heat from your gpu to your cpu because they have separate pipes on the heatsink

 

The improvement is good, I am not arguing that. I will get into my M17x when I get it and do some looking around for sure

When I had my whitebook I had some pretty good mods lined out for it you can read about in project freeze (OCZ thread)

And please clarify, because when you say GPU people are going to think you mean the GTX280m/GTX260m when you really mean the north bridge (9400m)

And are you saying you did some sort of cooling mod for your CPU as well?

 

sorry the only mod I did to the cpu is polish the heat sink and apply as-5 and yes all this time I was talking about the north bridge I don't even touch my gpu's yet I am very happy my laptop runs very cool

 

On this model is the CPU heatsink a copper block inlaid in aluminum like it was for the M17?

So that it is still copper contacting the CPU die?

 

yes it is copper contacting the cpu and there is the aluminum holding the pipes together

 

gotcha

thanks

 

Forgive my noobishness but if you just disable the 9400 in bios, won't it already improve the heating issues by some 5-10c? Plus, there's a high chance that the 9400 is a 5th wheel when playing games with hybrid activated.

 

disabling the 9400m will lower the northbridge heat some, but not much

I only noticed about a 5 degree difference (from around 72 to 75) during OCCT with my FSB at 317 (up from 266) so I would say it is safe to leave the 9400m on

 

I'm having 60(idle) and up to 70c (when gaming) on 9400, is it too high? I mean at the same time even when running Crysis the 280ms never go above 70-75, sometimes even lower(freezing cold when idle - 40-45c). Kinda strange to see the northbridge get warmer than the 280s.

 

that is perfectly normal and perfectly safe

fear not

The reason that the GTX 280m's stay cooler is because they have much more robust and dedicated cooling systems. The northbridge/southbridge/9400m are all on the same chip which is cooled by a cooler shared with the CPU, so it will be hotter but nothing to be worried about

 

The 9400 also processes 2x the information

 

imo the cpu heatsink does not really need to be polished. polishing it to a shine only makes it look better... even a 800 grit is really enough anything past that is cosmetic..i do some serious desktop overclocking and have never saw any true improvements from a crazy high polished heatsink to one that was not as mirror finished..now lapping the heatsink is a different story my megahalems i use as well as my true 120x were terrible out of the box and both got lapped to be razor blade flat..

 

megahalems? lol

I never understood lapping when the thermal paste is there to make up for the imperfections. Z, can you explain a little further on why it helps? (I can't be the only one wondering this)

 

lapping is to make the surface is flat on a molecular level as your can, this reduces the amount of thermal paste between the chip and cooler which allows for a better flow of heat since the more paste that has to be used to fill the gaps the more it blocks heat flow, since the heat flows better in the copper than the paste

here is a good page on it
http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/cooling/air/39

 

thanks scook. Next time I do a swap I'll try it.

 

always glad to help, although, as they pointed out in that same article, having to surfaces with a mirror finish, the cooler surface and the cpu die, would actually be bad

just a heads up

On desktops it is ok because you have that heat spreader that is NOT mirror haha, so mirror on the cpu cooler only is ok (my TURE 120 with mirror finish is beautiful )

 

yeah its not a bad thing but doesnt really do anything extra for cooling is what i meant

http://www.techpowerup.com/img/09-01-23/dfi201092.jpg

that is the megahalems

 

ya I know what it is

You prefer that over your TRUE?

 

i was putting the pic up for mandrake

yes i get better results with the mega by a degree or two with a slower rpm fan.. this cooler has been shown in many tests to beat the true, its a fantastic cooler

 

Copper mods are fun and all but with ICD compound out now I think its a waist of time/money/energy when the ICD can do it in an instant and probably with better results.

 

What is ICD? I did a search on google but theres alot of acronyms on there with the initials ICD in their name. Unless your talking about the International Classification of Diseases haha.

Nevermind I found it. For those who didn't know like me:

IC Diamond 7 Carat Thermal Compound maximizes thermal heat transfer between the CPU core and heatsink by taking advantage of diamond's superior thermal conductivity. Purified synthetic diamond has a thermal conductivity of 2,000-2,500 W/mK compared to 406-429 W/mK for pure silver.

 

Yep its dimaond dust basically put into a thick paste form, because it is so thick it can bridge large gaps that usually a copper mod is used for. And diamond is way better at thermal transfer than copper. Plus its non conductive so its super safe to use even for a novice.

So its a win/win/win situation. Better cooling, easier to use, cost less

 

looks like you are right that diamond staff seems to be the best out according to this http://www.overclock.net/cooling-experiments/447904-ic-diamond-7-carat-thermal-compound-56.html

 

Anyone got a link to buy it?

I am interested

 

is this what you want:
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/ic-diamond-7-carat-thermal-compound-15-gram-p-16605.html

 

Ya I think thats it. Thanks. Not a fan of the shipping price, guess I will order a few tubes to make it worthwhile.

+rep for the help

 

ICD does look like awesome stuff. I'm hoping to replace all the paste in my laptop (CPU, and both GPUs) with it-and perhaps try a ICD-mod (rather than copper mod) on the NB too (although there's little point, as I see the stuttering so little now anyway)

I'd like to sort out two things first. Firstly, exactly how much would a 1.5g tube cover? I'm wondering if I'd need a 1.5g tube for each GPU and the CPU. Secondly in that link above it says allow the solvent in the paste to evaporate for 10 minutes before putting the heatsink on...but straight after, it says for application to put a pea sized blob on and clamp the heatsink on top? (also says to clamp the heatsink onto a pea sized blob on ICD's website)

Very, very strange.

 

sorry I didn't realize I linked to such a small tube.
1.5g is very little, you will get maybe 1 or 2 applications.

You can also find this stuff on ebay.

 

Chick in the avatar is so hawt

 

1.5g should be enough for gpu's and cpu. contains 1.5 grams of compound. However, this cannot be compared to Silver based compounds as they have different densities. A 1.5 gram tube of ICD 7 is about the same in quantity/volume as a 3.5 gram tube of Silver based compounds (such as AS5). also on their website didn't say nothing about allow the solvent to evaporate here http://www.innovationcooling.com/applicationinstructions.htm