DISCLAIMER: This mod is NOT officially supported on the Macbook Pro 2019 16'', YOU assume all the risk and liability by attempting this repaste/mod on your own laptop. This thread was created merely to guide people on how to repaste/mod their 16'' Macbooks!
If you have never used liquid metal before it is advised that you read up on it, it is a conductive liquid, so if it is accidentally spilt on any components, motherboard etc, it MUST be cleaned completely before turning on the laptop!
Things you will need:
Liquid Metal - preferably thermal grizzly conductonaut.
Some sort of earbud to apply the liquid metal with.
Some sort of tape, Kapton tape is advised. Although adhesive tape will work fine which is what I used. You can alternatively use some form of conformal coating which can be found on ebay or amazon.
This shouldn't affect warranty as Apple does NOT disassemble these machines due to the convoluted assembly process.
Disassembly & Application of LM
You will need to disassemble the laptop almost entirely to take the heatsink off. Apple ingeniously thought it was a good idea to place the heatsink screws on the other side of the motherboard!
First you'll want to use a Pentalobe 1.2 Screwdriver to open the bottom screws securing the macbook pro lid. Once you have done that you will need to lift the bottom lid at a 20 degree angle, this can be done from using a spudger on either-side of the airflow grills. Now you need to pull the lid towards yourself, this may require a bit of strength lol. Once you see the lid move down and hear a click you can lift the lid.
Do NOT lift the lid too much when its latched at the top otherwise you will dent the top of the bottom base and bend the bottom cover!
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Now you should be looking at the internals, aside from the massive battery and big woofers there are a countless number of screws you need to unscrew before you can even think of taking the motherboard out! Luckily I have circled them all to make it easier for you, please organise these screws, most of them vary in length and size:
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So now that you've successfully removed 30+ screws you need to remove all the ribbon cables and for some reason there is quite a few of them. Now would be a good time for a break, lol. I've circled the ribbon connectors that need taking out and I've labelled them to make it easier for you. Please be very careful with the battery connector. One side is soldered directly to the motherboard, I almost ripped mine upon removal!:
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Who would have thought! 19 ribbon cables, Apple this isn't a phone its a laptop, please design it that way! Now that you have all the ribbon cables safely disconnected you can finally remove the motherboard. What I did was bend each ribbon cable off the motherboard so that I could just lift it out, like so:
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Now you can finally access the screws behind the motherboard lol. 2 hours+ of work just to remove a heatsink! Great job Apple!
I have highlighted the screws that will need removing. Note that the cpu and gpu brackets come off, these apply direct pressure to the heatsink, the screws under the gpu-side sticker have been highlighted:
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You should now should now be able to remove the heatsink. I lifted and turned the heatsink ever so slightly to remove it. If you try lifting it directly you may bend it, bare in mind this heatsink is very thin!
You will now end up seeing the worst thermal paste application possible:
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Now you can clean up that gunk until you end up with very clean/shiny surfaces:
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If you are using metal paste you will need to cover the capacitors next to the AMD GPU die, this is so that you don't short out the GPU with liquid metal!
With the liquid metal applied and the capacitors covered your motherboard and heatsink should look something like this:
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That's it! You can now assemble the laptop back together. Remember to plug in all the ribbon cables and put the screws in the correct places!
My idle temperatures went from 70c down to 50c after applying the liquid metal. On load the CPU can utilise around 65-70w compared to the 50w before LM. Unfortunately, the laptop still thermally throttles due to the heatsink being saturated by the insane heat the CPU gives out. When the fans kick in my 9880H levels out at around 3.3-3.4GHz, a big improvement from the measly all core 3GHz it was spitting out before. Multi-core scores have gone by around 20% even with the thermal constraint.
Is it worth it? For multi-core loads, such as rendering and virtual machines it most definitely is.
However, for gaming and light loads you should forget about it. There is not much point.
I hope you enjoyed this detailed guide!
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DaMafiaGamer Switching laptops forever!
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DaMafiaGamer Switching laptops forever!
I have pretty much gone broke after buying this laptop, to support me please donate so I can keep doing the mods that I do best
: http://paypal.me/ZeeshanAkhlaq
@Papusan @Spartan @Mr. Fox and other's that I can't think off please enjoy this thread!!Arondight likes this. -
But, I am really curious why you even purchased this in the first place. It's clearly severely overpriced and poorly made (speaking of the overall engineering abortion that it is, but not the excellent materials it is constructed of and chassis fit/finish quality) and offers poor value overall. What were you thinking, bro?
The bottom cover really needs some ventilation grilles over the fan intakes. Those are choked off even worse than the fans were on the Tornado F5. That might knock another 15+ °C off the temps if the fans could actually breathe a little bit.kojack and DaMafiaGamer like this. -
Spartan@HIDevolution Company Representative
Last edited: Dec 22, 2019Fire Tiger, Aivxtla, electrosoft and 2 others like this. -
Edit: Nevermind. I stumbled onto the answer in another thread.Last edited: Dec 22, 2019Spartan@HIDevolution likes this. -
Why would you need to do this ? It already has the best thermal engineering ever.
electrosoft and DaMafiaGamer like this. -
DaMafiaGamer Switching laptops forever!
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Papusan, DaMafiaGamer and kojack like this.
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Well my friend you get that in spades with me.
electrosoft, DaMafiaGamer and Mr. Fox like this. -
Last edited: Dec 22, 2019Papusan, Spartan@HIDevolution, DaMafiaGamer and 1 other person like this. -
Mr. Fox likes this.
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19 ribbon cables? Holy Bantha Fuddo! No wonder these things break.
In all seriousness this honestly makes this look a lot less intimidating than when Linustechtips did it for the last gen model. Still don’t think I’d ever recommend anyone other than power users that are used to taking laptops apart even bother doing this.jclausius, Papusan, Mr. Fox and 1 other person like this. -
Last edited: Dec 30, 2019
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win32asmguy Moderator Moderator
With liquid metal how does it compare to my hackintosh N970TF w/i9-9900? In theory it ought to be pretty close if the AMD GPU is not active and the thermal issues are fixed.
DaMafiaGamer, Papusan and Mr. Fox like this. -
I am going out a not so large limb and saying that your hackintosh will kill it, pasted or not.
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DaMafiaGamer Switching laptops forever!
My old HP Omen 2019 would compete with that score, with the same CPU, getting 3900 - 4000! Shows you how much Apple gimp their cpus -
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jclausius likes this.
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Gotcha... Probably along these lines (1st sentence) https://starwars.fandom.com/wiki/Bantha_fodder
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Severely overpriced? Something I never understood is seemingly smart people being completely and utterly unable to understand that what they want and value in a product isn't what others might want. If you want the absolute best performances a laptop can provide you obviously don't get this laptop. If you want a fairly powerful but very thin/light laptop with a good accurate screen, very good battery life, in a package that can conveniently be charged with USB-C and all of this with best in class build quality, this laptop is the only one that fits the bill and its price is just fine.
I've had everything from XPS 15s, Blade 15s, Aero 15x, Clevos... and I never mindlessly bashed another product because it doesn't fit my needs / I don't like a brand. I'm not 13 anymore.TheDantee likes this. -
Last edited: Jan 5, 2020
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How hard is it to understand that what you need isn't necessarily what the world needs? If you had no choice but to buy MacBooks or XPS 15s I'd understand, but there is plenty of choice for the "performance above all else" crowd and cheaper thin & light laptops for those who don't want to pay for the bells and whistles.Last edited: Jan 6, 2020 -
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Mastermind5200 Notebook Virtuoso
Something I've found very helpful is applying thermal pads to the heatpipe itself, it conducting heat to the bottom of the chassis when benching gives you much more headroom, as well it being cooler for general usage. I don't use my MBP on my laptop at all so I don't mind the increased bottom temp.
Also https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/42946114
Not bad for a old girl eh?Papusan likes this. -
electrosoft Perpetualist Matrixist
Heatsink-Thermal Pads-Case.
I have a post somewhere in here where I mention the trifecta (LM, HS->TP->Case) and cutting fan outlets on the bottom to maximize cooling.
Anything to cool 'em down.
Found it:
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/2018-macbook-pro-cooling-mod.2147106/Spartan@HIDevolution likes this. -
Mastermind5200 Notebook Virtuoso
Thats you? Thats actually where I got my inspiration from lol, the comments in that thread are a little "interesting" if you ask me
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electrosoft Perpetualist Matrixist
I know there was a web page someone had dedicated to a full mod build out with the LM, TPs and fan cut outs and the results were excellent.
If I picked up a 16" Macbook, I'd hunt down a replacement bottom and do the thermal pad mod with cut outs.
Best bet would be to hunt down or construct fan guards that are convex in shape so they act as protection and rear elevation all in one.
Maybe @DaMafiaGamer wants to extend his LM job and mod the bottom along with thermal pads so the heatsink won't soak as quick.Spartan@HIDevolution likes this.
Macbook Pro 16'' 2019 - Official Guide To Applying Liquid Metal
Discussion in 'Apple and Mac OS X' started by DaMafiaGamer, Dec 22, 2019.