[G73JH] I have failed repasting

tried repasting for the second time and i am not satisfied both times ...

right now after repasting i am getting idle readings on the GPU

DispIO - 48 C
MemIO - 61 C
Shader - 55 C

so i am guessing that this piece of **** is the problem

Thickness: 1mm
Continuous Temp: -40℃-260℃
Thermal Conductivity: 3.2w/m-K
Breakdown Voltage: 4kv/mm

1pc 100mmx100mmx1mm GPU CPU Heatsink Cooling Thermal Conductive Silicone Pad | eBay

any suggestions ?

can i put liquid paste on the bottom and top of the gummy thermal pad ? (for lower temperature)

p.s is this going to fix my problem

is there any difference in the color of the thermal pad

Thermal Conductivity 6.0W m.k Heatsink Compound Pad 100×100×1.0mm | eBay


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DispIO - 74 C
MemIO - 105 C
Shader - 85 C

 

Thermal pads are poor heat conductors. Replace the pad with IC Diamond or a copper shim.

 

Please be aware the MEM(IO) has nothing to do with the Vram which are covered by thermal pads.

Here is a diagram of the Core/Diode of a 5870 you notice that the Memory controller are located on the DIE.

The problem you have is going to be that the heatsink is not conducting with that section of the DIE which if you are looking at the motherboard with the Fans at the top the Memory controller are located at the top part the chip itself. The heatsink is poorly made and means that it elevates that section so there is a larger gap and I have tested numerous different ways to fix this including thinner pads and modding the heatsink as per the links in my sig they do not make a difference.



Thinner thermal pads can help to reduce the gap but you must make sure they are not too thin as they must make contact with the heatsink othewise a long gaming session could burn them out do not use thermal compound because the gap is too big and there will no conductivity with the whole module, may not burn out straight away but one day white fuzzy screen and game over.

Easiest way around this is to use ICD it fills the gap so if you are using another TIM or compound ditch it and apply a nice line of ICD across the DIE and reseat.

(The Stock thermal pad is 1mm, 0.5mm works but on mine 2/8 modules did not conduct with the heatsink so its best to stay with 1mm)

 

let me see if i got this right Yiddo

this is the MEMIO

http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/ac9/mite_jan/qpnj3q.jpg

so there is no sensor for the Vram and they are probably fine ?

what about Display and Shader sensors (where is their location)

if that is the Memory then i think the contact is not so good
i was using Arctic Silver 5 (i know you hate it but that is what i have at hand)

 

There is no sensor for the Vram no and they will not reach a temperature that you need to consider as long as there are thermal pads covering them.

You have attached an image of the Diode, the MEM(IO) or the memory controllers are located in the Diode and I have shown you on my picture approximately where they are located using an arrow above.

If you look at the diagram is shows you the layout but that is blown up so you can only get an idea of the location of each component. The entire Diode must make contact with the heatsink to cool it properly as mentioned the problem is the contact is poor in the area where the memory controllers are located and generally they run hotter than the rest of the chip.

 

everything else is good except the Memory on the GPU is hot 60 C (before it was 52 C)

i am getting out of ideas on how can i lower it
the only thing i changed from before were the thermal pads that goes on the chips (Vram)
are you 100% positive that is the location of the MEMORY

the protection piece should stay between the Core/Diode right ?

right here you are talking like the Vram is the MEM(IO)
the guy had the same problem like myself

http://forum.notebookreview.com/asus-gaming-notebook-forum/581258-asus-g73jh-thermal-pads.html


p.s i would love to hear someone else opinion about where is the MEMIO located

thanks for the help

 

Yes, the memIO is on the GPU die, not on the memory. I would say poor contact too, it is possible that a small area of the GPU die isn't covered by TIM or ir could just be a particularity of your heatsink and less viscous paste.

 

Mite are you using ICD? every heatsink is different but for the JH ICD really is the way to go because of the ghastly gap.

 

I've had pretty good results with Arctic Cooling MX-2 as well.

 

i have used arctic silver 5

so no need to order new with higher conductivity thermal pads ? maybe they are thick but i used 1mm

just maybe use some IC7 Diamond ?

btw i saw an old post from Mandrake who did a cooper mod
do you think it is worth it ?

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/1092/dsc01631a.jpg
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/4619/dsc01624a.jpg
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/3271/dsc01627h.jpg

 

Arctic Silver 5 will be your problem its too thin. Try ICD and I reckon it will solve the issue. Stay away from copper mods and shims its too risky stuff and the pads you currently have will be fine they won't make a difference.

Smack a blob of ICD on the GPU and reseat the heatsink people seem to think its all nonsense but trust me that stuff with the JH solved so many people's problems.

 

i think i had success with the IC7 Diamond

IDLE

GPU : 48/50/52 (when i started the laptop it was lower by 4 degrees C)
CPU : 43

 

Those are good temps :thumbsup:, what's your room temp by the way?

 

9:20pm ----> 21 C

btw i would love to mention to all those who think of opening the laptop to be very careful
there are flat cables with contacts on them for example the touchpad cable , power on cable (the contacts are like glued on the cable) which can be very problematic

you wont be able to power on the laptop (which was my case) or you can lost the touchpad

is there some fix for this if the contacts fell off?

talking about these contacts on the right

http://www.365laptoprepair.com/ebay...ouchpad-Cable-AWM-20798-E220709-12-pins_1.JPG

 

According to the NBR member whom I bought my spare LED/touchpad board, you'll have to trim the cable by about 1 to 2 mm to scrape off a little shielding to see the connectors like this, then you'll have to straighten the little metal ends/connectors with a xacto knife or a cutter so it can get a connection.

 

that is exactly what i did to make it work

i had to trim/cut the cable becouse one of the conectors is barely visible/very short (thanks god it was working)

is there any fix lets say if one of the metals/conectors falls off ? since mine is almost dead

can the cable be "unpealed" so new conectors can be "born"

 

I think so. The one that sold the touchpad/led board to me was successful when he pealed his ribbons.