ASUS ROG G752VY G-Sync Not working !

Hello,

i own ROG G752VY which has GTX980M 4 GB VGA , a week ago i had a strange blue vertical line in my screen which already had a very bad backlighting and a dead pixel , so i decided to buy a new compatible screen , i have read a lot before buying about the G-Sync option would not work unless i flash an EDID to white list the monitor , also i knew that the monitor by default is 60 HZ but when it's white-listed it will overclock to 75HZ to support G-Sync , when i plugged the new screen there was no G-Sync option available in Nvidia control panel , also the Max refresh rate was 60 HZ, so now i don't know what to do next to enable the G-Sync option on more time .
here is the old monitor and the new monitor details :
Old original LG Monitor model : lp173WF4-SPF1
New Monitor : B173HAN01.0
any help would be appreciated .

Thanks

 

You need to whitelist ur new screen.

 

Any idea how to do that !!
Thanks for help

 

It's a BIOS thing. You need to get a guy who can mod your BIOS to add the monitor to the whitelist.

 

Can i just do that with prema bios for GTX980M VGA ?? , Or do you any of the members have the Vbios Modded file for my laptop !

I am sorry for asking alot of questions , but i am still newbie in that .

Appreciate your help

 

We talk about your notebook, not the grapohicscard.

 

Ohh , i thought that i should modd the VBios not the main Bios , so i if could not do that , is there a chance to buy the same monitor model and get the G-Sync to work by default !! , Also can i just flash a the old EDID to the new monitor to in order to get it working !!

Thanks

 

I'm not sure how the whole EDID works, I know that the BIOS has whitelisted panels to enable or disable gsync.
Lets call a pro in this thematic then @t456

 

Allright , i would be very very grateful if t456 would help me in that , but i really don't know how to reach him

 

When quoting him like I did he will find this thread, no worries. He will probably asnwer in 1-3 days.

 

Thanks Danishblunt for your help , much appreciated

 

Hello,
@t456 , any help would be appreciated .

Thanks

 

Yes, you could and it'd work since their edids are compatible.

Only problem is the ' just'; software flashing on eDP panels is only possible with a really scary tool that needs full firmware for its input, not just the edid part (which is pure description, no code). The issue is to find a full firmware dump; it's either from the factory or you'd need to use hardware tools. Flashing merely the edid is also possible with hardware tools. All of this is about twice as difficult as vbios or bios programming due to the small size of the eeproms.

Easier alternative is to get a panel that is g-sync stamped, same as the original panel. Mind that two panels can be 100% identical, yet one of them will be validated and the other won't, simply due to having different edids flashed to them. So make sure to insist on a working g-sync panel before ordering. Also, the panel's edid has to be present in both the bios and vbios, so a newer panel may not work simply because the (v)bios hasn't been updated.

 

Thanks @t456 for explaining , so what do you recommend , returning this monitor and buy another one which is the same model or just buy a used monitor that was working in the same laptop model maybe ! , Because flashing the edid would be so difficult, so do you know any manfacture or website that may have such a monitor , because i have searched alot and all i found was just compatible monitors , i wish i couod just buy this from LG directly but they don't do that , you know i just want to get this monitor working because Asus support will cost me like 400 bucks for this monitor .
Thanks for your help , really appreciate that

 

Used panel of the original is the best option. There's a few SPF1's on ebay atm. Do check first whether they'll guarantee it's pulled from a g-sync certified laptop and whether they'll offer a refund in case it wasn't.

Unfortunately, the SPF1 comes with several edid versions and not all of them are certified (= paid a licensing fee to Nvidia). If the seller is unsure then you could ask them if they can read out the edid with MonInfo; if it says '75Hz' and has checksum '3E' then it's safe to order.

 

Well , thanks @t456 for all these information and your help , i already contacted the sellers to ask them , i wish i can find an original monitor that will work , i was thinking about buying EDID programmer to try it , or else i will send the laptop to Asus where they will charge me for alot of money for that .
Thanks and appreciate your help

 

Hello @t456
One more question please , i really like challenging myself , so i have been reading about flashing EDID , so i found this Porgrammer ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/332257512525?ViewItem=&item=332257512525) , which has this cable for backup and flashing EDID for LED and LCD monitors ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-LED-sc...09H-Programmer-RT809F-TL866CS-A-/232162520889) , do you think this will do the job !! , i saw a lot of videos for people flashing EDID for monitors with this programmer , can you just tell me whether it will work not ?

Thanks in advance

 

Not simply via that 'EDID cable'; these will work for LVDS panels, but not for eDP. However, once you desolder the eeprom you may be able to use the TSSOP8->DIP8 adapter and the programmer, assuming it can handle I2C as well as ISP protocol (very probable). There's two TSSOP8 sizes though; 0.65mm and 0.5mm pitch. Panels may use either of them, so best get an adapter board for both (~1$ each).

De- and re-soldering works best using a hot air station due to the fine pitch. For the same reason it's pretty much impossible to verify the soldering joints with a multimeter, so re-soldering is a bit trial-and-error.

 

Thanks @t456 , i already finished all this topic too ( http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...lacement-brightness-set-at-max.774101/page-20), which mentioned flashing through Arduino if i know the pinout and if the board have visible known pins for flashing , i work with Arduino so it's gonna be easy for me , but testing pins with multimeter to know which one is the write protected is a little sketchy for me , but trial and error is always good , excuse me for all my questions but i really started to like that , i downloaded the G752VY bios and opened it with UEFItool in order to try to find which offset or GUID has the whitelist values , but i could not find any , also i dumped my Vbios through modded nvflash tool , it was a ROM file , didn't know how to mod that , is it feasible to do such thing with Bios and Vbios!! , also i tried to find any useful Pinout for B173HAN01.0 to know exactly which pin is writeprotected and which one is VCC , but all what is mentioned is NC ports , i will try to read more and more about that , i have read most of your posts , you have a deep experience , so any help would be appreciated .

Thanks for your help

 

The write-protect is on the chip itself, pin #7. You could also use the break-out pad on the pcb; the other pins will also be present and labeled, so that might indeed be the easiest option. The hard part is that I2C eeproms don't use an identify pin (unlike ISP) and these tiny models are usually sparsely labeled, so you may not know the read and write settings to use for the arduino. Use the wrong setting and worst case you overwrite existing data with a simple 'read' command. Learn that the hard way and had to make a full dump from another panel to fix the first.

Can help with the bios, but don't know how to decompress a vbios. Without doing that it's not possible to find the edid contained within, unless it happened to be stored with a directly-readable method. Send them in a pm, if you like. We might at least extract the proper edid from the bios.

The NC's in panel schematics are factory-only pins; they serve a purpose, but that's not something they see fit to share with their customers. If the HAN01.0 actually has exposed edid pins then it'll be pins #24 and #25; data-in and data-out, the eeprom's voltage and ground are part of the normal 3.3V control circuit (unlike LVDS). Most eDP panels use an embedded signal within the regular DP control protocol which saves two pins and wires, making it a slightly cheaper option for the system builder. That's also why that simple 'edid cable' is of little use even if it were correctly wired to use on an eDP panel.

 

Thanks @t456 for your help , i sent you the Bios file you requested , i will dig deep more and more .

Thanks

 

Man, G-Sync can be weird at times... Wish they'd just go the AMD route with Freesync.
Nvidia has to make dat extra $$$ somehow though!