An Optimization Guide for the Asus G51

Well, when I first got my G51, I spent a bunch of timing figuring out how to properly optimize it. Although I actually somewhat enjoy the process and figuring everything out by myself, it was a huge hassle so I have condensed everything that I have found and discovered into this one huge guide.

Feel free to post any comments or suggestions as to improving the guide. Please let me know if you encounter any broken links.

Note: I am mostly just focusing on overclocking and undervolting here. This forum also has a Vista Tweaks Guide and a Asus Utility and Blo atware Guide which is very helpful in just making everything run faster without approaching the more "risky" things covered here.

Also, know that although I have personally done and tested everything within this guide, there is an inherent danger. You most likely will get a few BSODs but nothing should be damaged permanently if you're careful. That being said, please don’t be stupid and use common sense.

I nor anyone who have contributed to this guide bear no responsibility for any problems or damages that might occur while following this guide. Again that being said, I will try my best to help you through any problems or issues you have, but no guarantees.

I made this for the Asus G51 in mind, specifically the Best Buy model, but the general idea should remain the same for most laptops out there. Also bear in mind that everything was done with Vista 64bit so there may be various program incompatibilities or differences with XP or Windows 7.

Some Facts About Overclocking and Undervolting

Overclocking is running a part of your computer at higher clock speeds that is set at by your OEM while undervolting is running at lower voltages than default.

Basically, not all hardware are made the same. For the CPU and GPU, manufacturers usually test them for stability at clocks and voltages that will minimize the chance of them failing. This means that although the hardware in your laptop has been tested to run fine at whatever settings it is at by default, there is a good chance that it can run with less voltage or run at high clock speeds.

This also means that you can never guarantee a certain level of overclocking or undervolting since you may have a CPU that just barely met stability standards at stock clocks and thus can barely overclock or you may have one that is of much better quality and thus can overclock substantially.

Note: The GTX 260M found in the Asus G51 and G71 are underclocked from the real stock clocks. It is supposed to be at 550 core/ 950 memory/ 1375 shaders but it is only at 500/800/1250. This means that you are more or less guaranteed or at least have a good probability of being able to overclock to 550/950/1375.

The reason why it comes underclocked, though, is due to thermal considerations. Both the Asus G51 and G71 runs hotter than other similar systems so Asus probably underclocked the GPU to get better temperatures. Thus, remember that even if you can get your GTX 260M at the real stock clocks, you have to watch out for the temperature. If they're too high after overclocking, you might as well just go down to lower clocks.


Overclocking the CPU

1) Download SetFSB
2) Unzip it and run



3) Select “ICS9LPR604AGLF” as the Clock Generator

Note: This is based on the motherboard of your laptop so if you're trying to do this with a model that is not the Asus G51, you will have to search around online for the correct clock generator for your model.

The G71's clock generator should be 9LPRS929AKLF. There apparently appears to be an issue with SetFSB and Task Scheduler though so it may be better for you to just use the overclocking utility provided by Asus for the G71s.

4) Click “Get FSB”
5) If you’re running stock clocks, the current FSB should be 200.0
6) Move the top slider (corresponds to 500/760 in the picture above) until you get the desired FSB. To get your new speed after overclocking multiplier the Select FSB by 10 to get the speed in MHz.

Note: The above statement regarding multiplying the Select FSB by 10 is true for the P7350 in the Best Buy models. For other processors and/or models, it is likely that the calculations would be different. To get it, once you get the FSB, just divide the Current FSB from your stock clock in MHz to get the factor you multiply by.

7) Click “Set FSB” and the bottom right should show you’re new clocks.
8) Download CPU-Z (version 1.52 does NOT appear to work right now), HWMonitor, and Orthos.
9) Start up all three programs and run Orthos for a few minutes. In CPU-Z check that your CPU will reach the clocks that you overclocked to and that the temperatures aren’t crazy in HWMonitor. Anything past 80C I would say would be very abnormal. If Orthos stops at any time, it means that your overclock is somewhat unstable. Take this with a grain of salt, though. Orthos will most likely stress your CPU other than any normal usage should.

Notes: When you are overclocking, it is recommending to go slowly, maybe 25Mhz at a time. If you overclock too much, you may get a BSOD. That is normal and means that you simply overclocked too much. Just simply restart and your CPU clocks will boot at stock.

It seems like with the P7350, the maximum you can go to is around 2.5Ghz. Every processor is different, however, and there is no guarantee that your processor may overclock at all.

If you found that after you overclocked, CPU-Z is not showing the increase in clock speed or is even showing one that is lower than the stock clocks, remember that you have the CPU under load before the correct speed is shown. When idle, the CPU automatically downclocks to a 6.0 multiplier, giving you the misleading impression that you didn't get the correct increase in clock speeds.

Overclocking the GPU

Note: The most popular tool for software overclocking of the GPU is RivaTuner. However, it DOES NOT work with the Dox 185.85 drivers, which can be gotten here. The Dox 185.85 is arguably the best driver out there right now in terms of gaming. From what I have researched, RivaTuner should work with stock 185.85 but you have to edit it somewhat first.

Thus, I am to be going to use the nTunes provided with nTools to overclock the GPU. Even if the drivers you use do work with RivaTuner, I would recommend looking into nTools too since it has some really impressive management options.

If you’re truly insistent on RivaTuner, there are plenty of good guides online on how to use it. Just use Google.

Also, here is a guide from Forge as to upgrading to Dox 185.85 drivers just in case you need it.

And now, back to the overclocking:

1) Download nTools
2) Install it, go to Control Panel -> Classic View - > NVIDIA Control Panel -> Performance on the left
3) Go to “Device settings” and accept any agreements.

Note: When I downloaded nTunes by itself and installed it, my computer instantly went into BSOD once I clicked on agree, but if you install nTunes as part of nTools, there doesn’t seem to be a problem.



4) Click on custom and you will have the ability to change your clocks. Change them as you wish, click on apply, and save your new profile.

Note: don’t do it really fast and preferably, only change one clock at a time and at small intervals.

The G51 has GPU clocks at a 1 : 1.6 : 2.5 core:memory:shaders ratio. I would recommend keeping core and shaders linked while the memory can be adjusted more. The memory, though, is only rated up to 1000Mhz so it is heavily recommended not to go above it.

Furthermore, the memory has a lower critical temperature than the GPU as well as no temperature sensors. This means that if you have went past the memory critical point, the GPU may not automatically downclock if it's still below the GPU critical point, potentially causing hardware damage. The lack of a sensor for the memory means that you can't even measure it properly. Thus, always assume the memory temperature to be the same as the GPU temperature.

It would be preferable to give it a name that is actually descriptive like Core.Memory.Shader. DO NOT delete or overwrite userdflt.nsu because that is your default clock.
5) Download GPU-Z and run it to check to see that your new clocks were applied
6) Either run a stress test like Furmark for a while or play a graphics intensive game for a few hours to check for artifacts. I have found that a running through 3DMark06 once is a good basic test.
7) If there are artifacts, the temps are too high, or you get driver errors, the clocks are too high so go back and lower them.
8) Now, you can customize when you want your overclocks to kick in. For example, if I want the laptop to run at stock but overclock during Crysis, I would do the following:

1) Go to “Profile policies” under the performance menu to the left
2) Check "Load this Profile"
3) Click on Profile and choose the stock settings, ie userdflt.nsu
4) To the left click on "The system first starts Windows" and move it to the right via the "->" button.
5) Click on accept
6) Check "Load this Profile" again, choose your overclocked settings
7) Click "Game is loaded" on the left, click on the game, browse for your Crysis executable and check it.
8) Accept
9) Do the same thing above but have userdflt.nsu apply once the game is stopped.

Undervolting the CPU

There is already a good guide here which goes in more depth but it is for RMClock which does not support half multipliers, which the P7350 on the Best Buy models have. If your CPU has half multipliers or you don’t want to use RMClock which is now developmentally dead, continue on.

1) Download Crystal CPUID
2) Start it up, go to the file menu and go to “Multiplier Management Setting”



3) Click on “Enable Voltage,” ignore any warning and change the voltage as your see fit.

Note: it is probably best to go down in voltage in small increments and then apply. Standard voltage is 1.250V.

4) Go to the function menu and then click on multiplier management.
5) Boot up CPU-Z and Orthos. Use CPU-Z to check that your new voltage has applied and run Orthos for a bit, ie one run through, before trying to go lower. Once you've reached a point at which you are getting errors, go back up a step or two and then run Orthos for 30 minutes or more and confirm that your new voltage is indeed stable.

Note: it is generally not too recommended to both overclock and undervolt at the same time since the former increases heat and performance while the latter decreases heat and potentially decreases performance. You have to choose whether you want a better overclock or undervolt if you want to do both of them. For a better overclock, overclock first and get it stable and then undervolt while you’re overclocked to find the stable overclock voltage. For a better undervolt, undervolt first and then overclock while you’re undervolted.

It has also been reported that the altered voltages do not "stick" at times. It doesn't happen too often, though, and I am looking into a way to prevent it.

The voltages may be locked to a certain interval and you may not be able to overclock or undervolt past a point. There is a way to bypass this but I hold no responsibility for anything that may happen because of it.



1) Navigate to the indicated file within your Crystal CPUID folder and open it with notepad. It should look like aobve.
2) Observe the three settings called:

CqMaxVID=##
CqMidVID=##
CqMinVID=##

These three are the saved settings for the voltage applied when you start multiplier management. I have personally underclocked to the lowest voltage that is unlocked, 1.113V which corresponds to 23 within this file. If I want to drop it down another step, I could simply replace all 3 values to 22, save the file, and the new voltage will be applied when you start Crystal CPUID. The same concept goes for increasing the voltage but you make the value bigger.

Note: I personally couldn't go lower than 1.113V which is the lowest voltage you can naturally go to on Crystal CPUID with the P7350. I've checked with CPU-Z that the voltages do change with the edit mentioned above but the P7350 may get inherently unstable at those voltages.

Getting SetFSB and Crystal CPUID to Start at Boot

1) Go to Control Panel -> Classic View -> Administrative Tasks -> Task Scheduler -> Task Scheduler Library and click on “Create Task” on the right
2) Enter an appropriate title and description. You can choose to whether have it start at boot or logon; they are essentially the same for our purposes.
3) Go to the Triggers tab, create a new one like below.



4) Go to the Actions tab, create a new one like below.



Just browse for your SetFSB executable. Under the commands, “-w##” means that the program will have a delay of # seconds before starting, “-s###” will set the CPU to ### times 10 in MHz (ie to get 2.5Ghz, use “-s250” , “-b1” will have the program run in the background, and “-q” makes the GUI invisible.

5) For Crystal CPUID and undervolting, repeat steps 1-3 above but in step 4, instead, do this:



Just browse for your Crystal CPUID executable. Under the commands, “/CQ” enables multiplier management and “/HIDE” minimizes the program to the system tray.

There appears to be a problem with Crystal CPUID and SetFSB running after you return from sleep, but that can be easily fixed. (Courtesy from SirHase)

Basically, what happens is that it looks in the system log for that particular logged event, which is the resumption from sleep mode, and then starts the program.

Notes: I personally delay Crystal CPUID for 30 seconds from login before it starts (look under the trigger section) and SetFSB for 15 seconds because I have found online that there may be potential issues if you start them immediately and you’re on battery. That, however, is not confirmed at all but it doesn’t hurt and its easy to do. If you like to leave your computer on for a long time (3 days or more), go to the Settings tab and uncheck the box that says stop program after running for 3 days.

It’s also probably wise to make sure that the box that prevents multiple instances of the program running is checked just in case you don’t try to apply contradictory settings due to multiple CPUIDs running or something like that.

If you don't like everything automated and want to do it yourself via clicking a shortcut, it is perfectly doable.

Note: this above doesn't let your CPU change multipliers under different modes but it is a moot point if you have all of the multipliers running at the same voltage.

There is a way to create a shortcut that enables multiplier management.

1) Just create a shortcut of your Crystal CPUID executable and go to properties. It will have a Target box with "Target Filepath" ie something like "C:\Program Files\Crystal CPUID\CPUID.exe"
2) Add the following right after that filepath "-CQ -HIDE" so you end up with the following in the Target box: "Target Filepath" -CQ -HIDE

The same concept goes with creating a CPU overclocking shortcut. Instead, just get a shortcut for SetFSB and add "-s### -b1 -q" after the "Target Filepath" instead.

Flashing the vBIOS

The BIOS of the GPU, the vBIOS, basically contains alot of the instructions needed for the card to function. Thus, if we can edit it, we can change card properties much more easily than through any software method.

This, however, presents some very inherent dangers. The following instructions are much more risky than the methods discussed above. It can easily brick your GPU if you are not careful and make a mistake.

The main goal here is to undervolt the GPU in order to get lower temperatures. However, you can easily also increase the voltage to get higher overclocks or flash new clock speeds onto the GPU so you won't have to rely on nTools to do it for you.

The first portion will consist of editing the vBIOS by yourself. If you are not confident of your abilities to do so, you can skip down to the flashing part of the guide. I will attach two .zip files at the very bottom of the post containing the original vBIOS that comes with our GPU (OLDBIOS.rom) as well as an edited version with decreased voltages and at stock clocks. Both has Extra set at 0.90v but one has 3D, Throttle, and 2D all at 0.75v while the other has 3D and Throttle at 0.75v while 2D is at 0.70v. The vBIOS with 2D at 0.70v seems stable for now but I can't guarantee anything with it.

If you are uncomfortable with editing the vBIOS but want a specific one, feel free to ask me to make one for you and I'll gladly do so.

Editing the vBIOS

1) Get GPU-Z and NiBiTor,
2) Start up GPU-Z and to the right of the BIOS version number, there is a green image. Click on it and save it as OLDBIOS
3) GPU-Z saves it as a .bin file by default. Change it to a .rom file.

Note: If you don't know how to do this.....I'd recommend that you stop reading the vBIOS editing part right now and just move on to the flashing portion or just not flash altogether.

4) Open up NiBiTor and load your OLDBIOS.rom
5) Click the check that says it'll assume its a Geforce 8 series. Under Device, change it from unknown to 9800M GTX. Afterwards, go to the advanced information tab and click on rescan BIOS.

Note: There are two 9800M GTX listed under device. Choose the one that comes first. Anyways, after you rescan your BIOS, it should look like the following



6) Go to the voltages tab which should look like below and change as you see fit or want.



Note: An error may pop up when you first go to the tab. Ignore it and just try a few times by going to the tab again until it reads the voltages properly.

Extra is the voltage that your GPU uses during gaming. 3D is used for more advanced tasks outside of gaming. Throttle is what your GPU will underclock to if it exceeds certain critical values. 2D is when you're just at your desktop and maybe doing light web browsing.

If you're undervolting to decrease temperatures, the following Extra/3D/Thrtl/2D voltages should be stable: 0.90v/0.75v/0.75v/0.75v. I am extremely confident that 0.90v is the lowest voltage you can go to for Extra without being forced to start underclocking it while the other three may be able to go lower.

If you're increasing the voltage for better performance, I would heavily recommend only doing so up to 1.00v. Increased voltages is probably the easiest way to brick your GPU.

7) Go to the clocks tab which is pictured below and change as you see fit.



Note: Edit this if you want to permanently overclock or underclock your GPU.

Technically, overclocking through this way is more stable than doing so with software, but the difference is minimal enough that it doesn't really justify the decrease in flexibility you have through software

8) Go to the temperatures tab and change the critical temperature as you see fit.

Note: The critical temperature is the point at which your GPU will automatically downclock itself to avoid hardware damage. The default is 108C but I have changed mine down to 100C just to be safer.

Do not try to change the fan settings or anything else in this tab. They are only relevant to Desktop GPUs and will at best not do anything and at worst, mess something else up

9) Change your device back to the unknown. If you can to the advanced information tab, the device ID should be 0618. Afterwards, save your edited vBIOS as NEWBIOS.rom

Notes: After saving, reload your new vBIOS in NiBiTor. The circle next to integrity should now be green. If it is not, then there is a high probability that you made an error somewhere.

Flashing

1) Get an USB drive that is either empty or have files on it that you don't need,
2) Get and install HP USB Disk Storage Format Utility
3) Get Windows 98 System Files and extract them to a folder.
4) Run the HP USB Utility. Check the create DOS startup box and under the system files, browse to whatever folder you extracted the 98 System Files to.
5) Reformat it. It may take a couple of minutes.

Note: You will lose any information you have on that USB drive by reformatting

6) Get nvFlash and extract the files to the root of your newly formatted USB drive.
7) Put your OLDBIOS.rom and NEWBIOS.rom files at the root of the USB drive too.
8) Reboot and at POST, press F2 to enter the BIOS.
9) Go over to the Boot tab and select Hard Drive. Change the priority of your USB drive to be higher than your HDD. Afterwards, save and exit.
10) After the restart, just wait until you are at the DOS command prompt. Type "nvflash NEWBIOS.rom" and enter to begin flashing. Type "y" to confirm it.
11) Hold your breath and hope that it flashes successfully. If it doesn't flash back to your previous vBIOS with the following command: "nvFlash OLDBIOS.rom"
12) Should you have flashed successfully, reboot with ctrl+alt+delete and you will have your new voltages.

Notes: After rebooting, I would heavily recommend running 3DMark06 at least once to check for basic stability. Do not overclock the GPU at all and use the stock clocks. If it goes through one run, then things are looking good. Continue stability testing by getting Furmark and running it for a while or play a graphically intensive game.

Undervolting will reduce your ability to overclock the GPU quite substantially. It appears that 0.90v may be the lowest voltage at which the GPU will run at stock clocks stable. This means that your linked core/shaders overclock will be very low. The memory, however, can still be pumped up quite high.

If you get BSODs or it is not stable even at stock clocks, then the voltage is too low and you need to flash back to your old vBIOS.

If things get really bad, then you might be forced to do a blind flash. This means that your monitor will not show anything at all since you have just bricked your GPU. Don't take your USB drive out since it will probably reset the boot priority and then you would have to blindly set the USB drive priority as higher than the HDD. Just reboot, wait about 2 minutes, type "nvFlash OLDBIOS.rom" wait 30 seconds and then press y and enter.

If your lucky, then you will flash back to your old vBIOS and things will be fine. If not.....well, I warned you.

Future Directions:

I'm going to try to find the lowest voltages for 3D, Throttle, and 2D settings so the GPU will run even cooler when you're not gaming.

If possible, I still hope that I can somehow control the temperatures at which the different fan speeds will kick in but it seems unlikely and I don't know if I will have the time and patience to figure everything out.

Thanks to:

Forge for his guide on updating to the Dox 185.85 drivers and the underclocking shortcut as well as helping me confirm lots of things.
Soviet Sunrise for all of his help in vBIOS flashing as well as providing some general information.
SirHase for providing the sleep mode fix to task scheduler.
xckiier23 for pointing me to nTools for overclocking the GPU.
AmatuerClocker for providing G71's PLL.
Everyone at the various huge G51 threads

 

Awsome!.. will add this to the owners forum right away.. Thanks!

 

Incredible!! Thanks soooo much! This will help all the noobs like me!!!

 

awesome guide! when i get my new CPU i'll look into undervolting

 

Very nice! This is the first thing I'll do when I grab get my G51 in a couple of weeks. I'm thinking of trying some of the above with my X5, but it's already stable and has good 3dMark06 scores so perhaps not to bother. But fo' sho' with the G51!

 

Nice. Looking forward to someone to do a mod that replaces the thermal pad on the 260 with a copper block to improve those temps.

 

Very nice guide. Does undervolting really help if you OC the CPU?

 

Excellent guide, like having setfsb setup as a task now!

 

has anyone tried ATI Tools on this graphic card yet? Its an easier way to check for Artifacts...

 

Wow this was amazing thanks.. Really helped

 

It does work. At an overclock of 2.3Ghz, my load temps dropped from about 69C to 65-67C. Its only like a 2-4C which is nothing spectacular but its still a drop and at least its better than nothing.

 

Stunning stuff. Glad this is up sooner than later.

 

Well, I might as well contribute something. Tev, if you want to grab this and put it in your original post go right ahead.

This guide is for a G51vx running Vista. And, like Tev did, this is down at your own risk. If your computer blows up in our face and sets your house on fire and burns down your priceless family keepsakes, know that this is a voluntary decision.

Dox Drivers
Drivers are what helps your hardware run smoothly. That's pretty much it.

Like other hwardware, the G51 video card, the GeForce GTX 260m, has its drivers. The problem with the drivers that nVidia puts out is that they leave behind some of the power that the 260m could achieve in the name of stability. Though there's nothing wrong with that, but if you want the most out of your computer, you're going to look for the drivers Dox modifies, which are optimized for laptop graphics.


Before you start
Download the following:
-Download Dox's 185.85 customized ForceWare, from this page Make sure to choose the right version for your OS
- Driver Sweeper
- PhysX8.09.04
- PhysX 9.09.0428
-(Optional) A compatible nVidia driver if things mess up
(Note: It is best if you leave the shortcuts and drivers on your desktop for easy access)


Delete your current drivers
-Go to my computer and right-click
-Select properties
-Click on "Device Managers" on the left side of the window
-On the new window that pops up, expand "Display Adapaters"
-Right click on the "NVIDIA GeForce GTX 260m" and select uninstall.
-Check off the box to remove the system files from your system. (Note: I don't know if this changes anything, but I do it myself)
-After uninstalling, reboot into safe mode.


Run Driver Sweeper
-Once you're back in your Safe-moded desktop, run Driver Sweeper.
- ONLY check off the box for nVidia display.
-Clean your files.
-If you want, you can close Driver Sweeper and run the cleaning again, to make sure you got everything.


Install Dox Drivers
-Run the Dox 185.85 installation program and follow the prompts. There should be no problems.
-Reboot into regular mode


Install PhysX
-After signing on to your desktop, install PhysX 8.09.04 following the prompts
-After that, install 9.09.0428, again following the prompts.
-After finishing, right-click on your desktop, select nVidia control panel
-On the menu to the left, click PhysX Configuration
-Enable PhysX


Congratulations, you now have Dox drivers, try running some benchmarks or playing some games to see the performance increase.

 

Just a small detail.

The DOX 185.85 are great drivers for gaming, but sadly they have very unstable HDMI out performance. Other than that they are among the best current performers out there.

Great thread so far.

 

Thanks for providing that Forge, I just added it in.

 

Kewl.

Could you requote my Dox guide? I got the links to the drivers wrong.

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! Really appreciate this!!!

Question though, do I need to undervolt to make it run better?

 

What program are you using to overclock with the DOX drivers? I can not for the life of me get rivatuner to work with the the stock drivers.... so im using BoohooNtune.

 

Should use EVGA Precision instead of Ntune

 

Tried that as well... still wont overclock it.... Only thing that has worked is Ntune...

 

Getting ready to install the DOX drivers. Hopefully that will solve that stupid error kwhateverthehell error i get from the factory drivers.

 

As of this post, I haven't gotten either Precision or Rivatuner to work.

They look they work. Precisions only requires that you install it, and you get your overclocking screen. However, when running and looking back at the clock logs, it appears they only peaked at the standard 260m clocks, not what I was aiming for.

Rivatuner, too, has that problem, with the difference that you need to force it to detect 185.85, Dox or otherwise. (It you insist on using Rivatuner, open, go to power user, expand the Rivatuner/Settings, and set the value of ForceDriverVersion to 18585. After that make sure the "hexidecimal display" button on the bottom of the Rivatuner window is disabled). When using this, I have the same problem: Clocks looked to be peaking at 540/1350/899.

So I'm sticking with nTools. As long as you download nTools and install it, you won't get the BSOD that's been plaguing users of nTune. And nTools gives you instant overclock.

 

Excellent then, ill continue using ntools.

O and the DOX driver install worked perfect. With same clock speeds as before... t9600 at 3.1ghz gpu at 605/1005/1524 i got almost a 350point increase in 3dm06...

1280x768 = 12881

 

Sigh. I knew my 11,000 just wasn't good enough. When will the BIOS allow me to use the QX9300 I have collecting dust?

 

It won't run better but it will run cooler and potentially give you better battery life.

 

lol. I don't know. Do we know for sure if there going to push a g51 quad core? Then all you need is to get that models bios.

 

The G51vx-A1 comes standard with a Q9000. And they're the exact same computer barring the upgrades, according to GenTech's Ken Lee.

Undervolting can also give you an increase in general hardware life. Less heat means less damage over a long period of time, which means longer lifespan.

 

After re-reading the undervolting guide, I've come up with an alternative. I, for one, like to keep automation to a minimum. On the other hand, it's annoying to keep on opening up Crystal, setting the menus, and stuff. So there's something that's almost as fast as Tev's task schedule, but leaves you in control.

Again, I am not responsible for any damage done to your computer. Also, please note that you should choose this method OR Tev's task scheduler, since they might conflict, and one defeats the purpose of the other.

Undervolting Shortcut
-Download and run CrystalCPUID (Refer to Tev's undervolting section)
-Go to Function, then "Intel Enhanced SpeedStep Control"
-In the window that pops up, note that the standard voltage--for the G51--is set at 1.250 volts, while multiplier is 7.5x
-Click "Enable change voltage"
-In the "New Voltage" drop-down selector, select a new voltage. (Note: I opt for 1.150, since it's a fairly large voltage drop and I haven't had impairment in games with and without overclocking to 2.4 GHz.)
-Confirm the new voltage
-Run some tests to ensure it's stable (Refer to Tev's undervolting section)
-After, go back to that same window (function -> Intel Enhanced SpeedStep Control) and click the "Create Shortcut on Desktop" button.
-An icon will appear on your desktop, with the multiplier and voltage settings you specified.
-When you wish to activate your undervolt, simply run the shortcut. CPU-Z will confirm that your voltages have been set.

 

Great work. Thanks to you and all who contributed

 

I got yesterday mine G51 and the first thing I did was a really clean install, installed everything from Asus Driver CD, then follow your guide =) Thanks alot, its one awesome job, very easy to follow.. I had a minor problem with CPUID, i thought 1.113V was default voltage, so I crashed a couple times trying to get something lower

Everything is working fine now at 2.5Ghz and Undervolted to 1.2V, and since i burned a couple of desktops GPUs before for overclocking i decided not to touch it ( i mean, not gonna overclock the GPU ) =)

Here are some screenshots:

CPU Overclocked at 2.5Ghz and Undervolted at 1.2V
( Note: Max temps are without undervolting, and undervolted it was stable at 61C/65C )


3DMark 2006 - 1280x768 - CPU @ 2.5Ghz ~ Undervolted to 1.2V


3DMark 2006 - 1280x768 - CPU @ 2.5Ghz ~ Not undervolted


Conclusions: Undervolted turned my Overclocked CPU temps back to stock, and gave me around 1.5K more points in 3DMark...
All temps was done without a cooler =)

 

@SirHase thanks for the feedback, I'll put it in the guide that the default voltage is 1.250V.

 

Great guide and hell of a job you did putting it together.

+ rep Tevesh

 

Excellent stuff,

Just finishing my SSD Vista64 install, then I'm going to OC my CPU to a good 3.2g's and start playing with the 260m. Going to be fun finding a good stable CPU OC whilst undervolting . Thanks for taking the time to share info.

 

Thanks for the great writeup

 

If your computer returns from sleep with stock CPU clocks like mine, you can do this to fix it:

Lets say you have already followed Tevas tutorial:
1) Go to Control Panel -> Classic View -> Administrative Tasks -> Task Scheduler -> Task Scheduler Library
2) Right click your "SetFSB task" you have created before, and click properties.
3) Go to the Triggers tab, create a new one like below.

4) Click OK, and click OK again.. And your done =)

Crystal CPUID shouldnt need this, but you can create this new trigger to make sure with no problems...

 

and I have a question about CPU voltage..

In Crystal CPUID I did set all 3 multipliers at 1.200V, which is the lowest I can get without errors in Orthos... But when I open CPU-Z it shows 1.088V ( touch me ), am I looking at the right place? and what Voltage i am really using? Thanks guys =)

 

CPU-Z doesn't always show "correct" voltages, but it's usually pretty close. That, however, isn't close.

I think it may have to do with load, but it's usually the other way around. On a regular motherboard, the voltage for the CPU actually DROPS during load leading to BSODs, etc. because you don't have enough voltage. If you set 1.5 in the BIOS, on idle it'll be 1.5. But on load (due to increased load on the motherboard), it drops the voltage which thus leads to an unstable CPU.

But this is the other way around...Unless ASUS spent the money on VDroop control (vdroop = CPU voltage dropping during load), I'm not sure what it is. Like, you need an uber-motherboard ($350+) to get Vdroop control.

It may be a laptop, thing, though.

~Ibrahim~

 

You're running at a multiplier of x6. That means that either you're forcing the CPU to only run at a multiplier of 6.0 or you're not under load right now. Btw, this max multiplier should be 7.5

Go check your voltages while Orthos is running and if you did everything right, you should get the proper voltage.

 

Oh, wow, yeah. I didn't even see the multiplier. I think it's called C1E? That should be disabled for better overclocking, but that means you're CPU runs 100% all the time.

~Ibrahim~

 

I think a screenshot is better than a 1000 words =P



Look at the Crystal CPUID, its set at 1.2V, and CPU-Z shows 1.088V .. CPU-Z shows 1.088V at all 3 multipliers.. Am i the only one with this?

 

On the multiplier management settings, try making all your multipliers 7.5.

 

Still same thing =/

But I did some tests... When i boot-up my coomputer without Crytal CPUID, mine Voltage at CPU-Z shows 1.138V for the 6.0X and 7.5X multiplies... I also have one screenshot of me having this same voltage before even downloading CPUID, so I guess its safe to say im OK ? I did run Prime95 all night, found no problems =) And the actual voltage i believe is 1.088V...

 

So during that screenshot, you've applied the voltage settings and restarted CPU-Z just to refresh it?

This is very weird. I'm almost positive that the P7350 ships running at 1.250V.

Okay....right now do you have Crystal CPUID running at login? If so, which voltages have you set it to?

Does exiting out of CPUID change the voltage settings in CPU-Z?

Did you do the commands properly (/CQ)? Do you see the Multiplier Management setting checked under functions after CPUID starts?

 

Awesome Guide, as everyone has been saying. I have to download Dox drivers.. dont know WHAT they really are , but if the'll help the performance ill read into em and install the whatver. lol.

Also, can I get a link to a good download loc. for 3DMark06? every time i find one i have trouble downloading it. Noob issues.

 

I think if you download the basic version here it should work. Just know that since its free (iirc) alot of things are restricted but heck at least you won't need to pay for it.

 

- Yeap, it still the same voltage no matter if i restart or not...

- And it is, if you check Sunny's review page, it show the 1.250V stock voltage... Mine stock voltage is 1.138V ( Weird hu? )

- Yes... For all three multipliers its set at 1.200V... This changes mine stock 1.138V to 1.088V in CPU-Z... If i change the voltage in Crystal CPUID back to 1.250V, CPU-Z shows 1.138V again...

- No...

- Yes... the tray icon shows up after 1 min ( I set it like that ), and the management works, it changes from 1.138V to 1.088V in CPU-Z... oh.. And, if i set the trigger in the Task Scheduler to run the Crystal CPUID at Start Up instead of Log On, it gives an error... SetFSB seens to work fine at Start UP..


Right now.. i do belive its a CPU-Z Error... Because theres lots of reports on theirs forums about wrong CPU Voltage errors...

 

Problem solved.. =)

It was CPU-Z reporting wrong CPU Voltage... I downloaded the same version as Sunny's used in his review and it worked... Soo.. Latest version is bugged -_-

Heres the link to the version that works, in case someone wanna see the true voltage:
http://www.filehippo.com/download_cpuz/5651/

Edit:
CPU-Z Version 1.52 is the one not working... 1.51 works fine, is the one on the link above...

 

Hmm....thanks for the link. I'll update it in my guide. I swear thats the version that I downloaded.....I guess probably not then.

 

CPUZ is not working for me not even the 1.51 version, I have it undervolted to 1.125 for the 3 multipliers, and cpuid in the menu bar shows 1.125, but cpuz shows 1.250. Are there any other programs to check the voltages?

 

have you done the step number 4 of the undervolting part?

Code:

4) Go to the function menu and then click on multiplier management.