Changing The ASUS ROG STRIX GL502VS-Db71 to a 15.6" 120hz panel.

So for the sake of the dozens of others who may google and look for solutions to this, this is for you.

I currently own the ASUS ROG STRIX GL502VS-Db71,

( https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834234297)

, Which has a skylake i7 in my case, and a 1070. It also has a g sync panel, but it's only 60hz. A 1070 paired with a 60hz 1080p panel seems pointless because the laptop 1070 is a boss. So i've searched for a way to rectify this. Alas I have found the solution;
The ASUS ROG Strix GL502VS-Ds71. Notice the S in between D and 71. This model is the updated variant with a kabylake CPU. But also a 120hz g sync 1080p panel. SO naturally I curiously wonder if I could replace my current panel with this panel and have it go smoothly. With G sync working properly, brightness working right and getting that 120hz butter. So after researching I found the model number of the panel in it.

The AU OPTRONICS B156HAN04.3 .

You can find this on eBay currently for about 55$ more or less. I've found before somebody using a different panel on/in their laptop, but unable to get brightness control to work properly or g sync to work right. But since this is the same panel Asus uses in their newer line, I feel it may work better.

I can't yet report what will happen but am posting this in preparation. And will update with the results.





UPDATE: DONT WORK lol

 

Any updates?

 

Yes. It didn't work. lol. Just buy an external monitor.
I duno why it didn't work. Sorry

 

What do you mean by it doesn't work?
I did the same thing and the only thing that doesn't work so far is G-Sync, other than that, everything else like 120hz and brightness works

 

What screen model number and what did you do to get 120hz to show up in nvidia settings?

 

The model number is B156HAN04.3, the one from the GL502VS DS71
If the panel is really capable of 120hz the timings should be in the EDID and will show up right away. Check the pixel clock of the panel to see if it can do 120hz in the first place

 

I read above and saw that you used the right panel, so here's what I did.
If you just plug it in with the current drivers, you'll probably get it to light up while posting, then when it boots it'll be a black screen. Use DDU to uninstall all drivers, then the screen will be usable. Go to Windows Updates and let it look for the stock driver of the 1070, reboot and your panel will work with Nvidia drivers. After that you can update your drivers however you want.
I'm at the point where everything but G-Sync works, and I'm trying various ways to get it to. Get yours to this point so we can get G-Sync to work too. Good luck

 

Mmmm mmmm mmmm so. That's awesome.
I sent mine back. So Ill have to rebuy it and do it again. But 1080p plus a 1070 usually means 120fps. So g sync wouldn't be needed. Plus no g sync means better battery life.

Does Optimus work now that g sync is disabled?

 

G-Sync itself doesn't have any impact on battery life. It's the nature of the connection itself. Optimus is connected through the iGPU, where G-Sync is connected straight to the GPU and the GPU only through eDP. They are not compatible.
Also without G-Sync and only V-Sync anything under 120fps will be pointless since whenever it drops below the highest refresh rate the refresh rate will be halved meaning anything under 120 will be 60 and anything under 60 will be 30. Without V-Sync it'll just stutter. Definitely would want to get G-Sync to work.

 

Hey Guys,

I am planning to do the same upgrade. I have the Skylake-Generation of the GL502VS. For some strange reason I have a tiny hair in my screen. That accelerated my wish I am certified on different Businessbrand Notebooks. But I have noch idea how to remove the panel of this device. Maybe someone can give a short advice.

@Roddydesu, do you have any updates on your G-Sync problem? Did you fix it? Can you also "feel/see" that the 120Hz are working? G-Sync would be very important. Run games @60FPS with this notebook is not the problem. But 120FPS is heavy.

I already "modded" my Laptop to kill the discharge issue, so I have a very constant performance compared to the stock state. Would be really nice to enjoy the full power and the smoothness of 120Hz instead of the 60Hz cut.

 

Oh it's definitely 120hz. I'm waiting for my RT809F programmer to try and flash the EDID enough so the laptop recognizes it as the original panel, only with an "overclock" to hopefully enable G-Sync.

As for how to remove the panel you simply have to pry the inner edges and outer edges a little bit to undo the clips. For the top edge, when all the clips are removed, push the bezel down so to unhook the top part. There are two stickers at the two bottom corners of the bezel, remove to reveal the two screws. For the bottom edge of the bezel, carefully separate the bezel from the panel since the adhesive might tear off the actual adhesive on the panel itself. Good luck

 

What if you deactivate V-Sync / G-Sync? I might be wrong with my thinking but with 120Hz the tearing effect should be weaker as on a 60Hz display.

Oh thank you for the advice. So it is like the older Thinkpads. I some videos on YouTube from other Asus Laptops they had to remove screws before removing the bezel

I hope you are successful with your EDID flash. Please keep us up to date

 

Since I like playing heavy titles at really high settings, the VS usually reaches around 90fps and without any sync the stuttering kicks in, but even if I can't get G-Sync to work, seeing everything else e.g. browser scrolling at 120fps is just absolutely worth it

 

Yeah I saw different Display up to 144hz in local stores... Really smooth feeling. The VS is my first device with G-Sync. I know the benefits of G-Sync but I can't say that the missing sync of former days has ever been a showstopper to me. In fast games like shooter or racing games there was a cut from time to time. But only for ~16ms. On a 120hz panel, it would last for ~8ms. I think I could live with that. The problem is that this is all just my theory .

BTW sorry for my english I am not a native speaker

 

Additional Info:
I "overclocked" my Display to 67Hz (just to try). G-Sync doesn't work with this setting.

 

Which display? The stock one?

 

Yes the 60hz stock panel.


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

 

That's weird, I just tried 67hz on the stock panel since you said so and it worked just fine with G-Sync for me

 

I dont get it anyway... In Nvidia Control Center I set G-Sync for fullscreen and window... Now what about the ingame Option of V-Sync? Activate for G-Sync or deactivate because we dont exactly want to use V-Sync... In Rocket League, I can set what I want it shows always about 180fps and it feels stuttery... The only way is the ingame framelimiter. So maybe I Do something wrong in general


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

 

Use Fast Sync along with G-Sync and ignore the ingame caps

 

Where to find fast sync? In F1 2016 it ignores G-Sync too...


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

 

You can enable Fast Sync under the Vsync drop down menu. Since G-Sync doesn't cap your framerate, if it goes over your monitor's refresh it won't work

 

So you say activated G-Sync does not cap fps at maximum refreshrate???


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

 

G-Sync is to match your monitor's refreshrate to fps to create a smooth stutter free experience

 

Yeah thats totally clear to me. But when the display cant run 180hz so it has to cap at 60?! If thats wrong than i would need G-Sync for less than 60fps and V-Sync for more than 60fps.


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

 

That is correct. G-Sync is only effective if it's under your refreshrate. If you can always get over the refreshrate 100% of the time only VSync itself can be buttery smooth too

 

Were you ever able to get the gsync to work?

 

I've actually spent quite some time on it this summer, testing out whether I can flash the EDID on the panel with the 30 pin eDP connection but I can't even get it to read yet. Now I'm back to school, I guess I'll have to work on it again during my Christmas break since all my stuff is in another country. In the mean time I guess you guys can help research on flashing the EDID on a 30pin eDP panel with a RT809F too

 

I assume you already tried flashing via normal routes and were unsuccessful?

This article includes a script to flash the edid info on linux via i2ctools
https://blog.voodoo-arts.net/conten...monitore-sind-falsch-das-kann-man-aber-ändern

I recently ordered a GL502VS-WS71 and I've read conflicting reports about whether or not this model has 120hz, wonder if the panel mentioned in the op will even be compatible with this make.

 

I've read a bunch of sites on how to software flash the EDID, but none of them worked for me, probably because Asus doesn't want anything software to mess up the screen so it's write protected. I've been trying hardware flashing by using a RT809F with the help of reputable member t456

 

Hrm, maybe disabling the write-protect would be more feasible to allow using the normal utilities.

Looks like on some models you can physically disable write-protect by cutting a pin.


https://www.blurbusters.com/zero-motion-blur/hardware-mod/
http://forum.notebookreview.com/attachments/writeup-pdf.135844/

If the write protection can be disabled I think the easiest way to get gsync +120 to work would be to probably

1)Dump original panel edid
2)Disable WP on new panel, and replace orginal
3)Dump new panel edid for backup purposes
4)Write orginal edid onto new panel
5)"Overclock" new panel to 120hz via the nvidia control panel.

 

I've read and tried all of those sites but it doesn't work since this is different from the desktop, LVDS or 40pin eDP panels. I've tested all of those relatively easier methods and finally resorted to this method. There's a chance that I might've missed something or did something wrong so it would be great if you tested those methods too

 

My laptop should be arriving this week, need to see if its effected by this discharge issue I have read about then I'll consider getting the panel off ebay.

The pdf linked is about replacing writing the eprom on a laptop panel so I think the adrino method would work just as well with this panel. I'd be interested to see if it has the secondary chip protection as clipping a pin is by far the easiest solution to write protection.

 

I installed a B156HAN04.2 (same screen as the ROG Zephyrus GX501) panel in my GL502VS-DB71. It boots into a black screen if I install any Nvidia driver after 378.92. 120hz works, but brightness control doesn't. I'm fine with the loss of brightness control, but I really want to be able to update my drivers. Any ideas on how to solve this?

 

I'm having the same issue as you, only in the Triton 700. Were you able to fix it? I'm thinking of finding someone with a Zephyrus that can provide their EDID because my panel has almost no info when I look in HWInfo.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

Please try whatever method you think will work and tell us if it does. I never even got to reading the EEPROM, probably because my makeshift 30pin eDP cable that was too janky as it was modded from a 40pin literally by cutting it.

 

Uninstall all drivers and and use Windows update to find and install driver, then install your downloaded drivers. If you're saying that any drivers over 378.92 does not work, I can't help because I probably haven't tried it yet, but please don't give up or stop trying things out, this project needs the collective experiences everybody has

 

The problem I'm stuck on now is getting into the EEPROM without breaking the panel, and if you have any experience with that, please share here. I've been busy so I haven't had the chance to try flashing the panel again, but I got the basic idea of how to mod EDIDs. I also have the EDID of my LG panel and the genuine AUO panel from my friend's GL502VS, so if you need either of that I can post it here

 

Sorry for not updating this project. The only times I can work on this is when I'm back home in Hong Kong during breaks, the rest of the time I'm in Canada continuing my grade 11 studies and it's tough. Please don't stop trying to figure this out and post whatever experiences you have. If you have any questions I will try my best to answer with whatever little knowledge I have about this topic. Thanks everybody

 

Unfortunately, Windows automatically installs a 38x.xx driver, so it causes the screen to go black.

I don't really have a lot of knowledge on these things, but could you use an INF driver to override the EDID through software? If you post the EDIDs I could try some things myself.

 

Try installing some older versions of the driver from the GL502VS support site. Make sure you DDU before you do so. I also tried using an INF before but it didn't work for me. You can try it your way and see if it works. I'll upload my modded EDID tomorrow

 

Here are some EDIDs for you guys to test out. LG Original is the EDID of the stock panel on the GL502VS-DB71, the AUO EDID is the stock panel on the GL502VS-DS71, and the Mod EDID is an EDID I made basically by mixing the info of the stock DB71 panel with the technical stuff (clocks) of the DS71 panel. I think the Mod EDID might work if the BIOS doesn't read the entire EDID. You can try INFs by putting these EDIDs into MonInfo(Monitor Asset Manager), booting into Disable Driver Signature Enforcement and installing it. Remember that G-Sync activation is based on the combo of three things in order to work, the motherboard, the GPU and the display, and if any one of them is off, G-Sync won't work. Good luck

 

I need help getting 120hz to work Lol everyones trying to get gsync to work while im here trying to get 120hz XD