G51Vx Screen Transplant - SUCCESS!

For those that have been forever asking about upgrading their miserable 15.6" 1366x768 resolution screen, I went ahead and did it. I own a G51Vx-RX05 (Best Buy version). It came with a 15.6" 1366x768 resolution screen. You can find reviews of the particular laptop in question by searching the forum, but it is of my opinion that this will work on any of the current models including the G51J or G51Jx that possess the lower resolution screen as well since the screen I will be using was what the Asus tech informed me was a "universal part" for this current gen line of LED screen laptops.

For those that never read my other post on the subject, fighting for the actual part number of the screen "upgrade" with the asus estore deserves an honorary statue in itself, haha.

All kidding aside, I did talk to a very helpful tech at the Asus estore (thanks Judy!!!) that provided me with the exact part number of the 1920x1080 resolution screen that is shared across all the LED based current 15.6" A1 models. It IS an AUO model, I don't know how much that matters to some people but it is the OEM screen that Asus currently uses.

This transplant is not for the faint of heart. You WILL be handling several small wires that if you break, you will not be able to repair easily, if at all.

I followed the guide as a general step for the G50Vt teardown located here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=318551

I specifically followed only the LCD removal part, without having to remove the entire top of the case (starts at page 2-24 of the guide following the numbers at the bottom of the "pages"). Since this is a LED based screen, you do not have to worry about the step that tells you to remove the inverter as the LED screens do not have this as the CCFL screen the G50Vt did. Otherwise, follow all steps until you are able to unscrew the LCD screen from the LCD mounting braces - always being careful to make sure the screen does not fall off the braces and become damaged.

The part number that you can order from the Asus estore for the higher res AUO 1920x1080 screen is: 18G241560020

After reassembly, the screen immediately resolved to its 1920x1080 resolution.

Any other questions please feel free to ask and I will try to give any answers I can.

Thanks!

 

awesome, grats.

 

Very good. Rep for you good sir.

 

Nice job!
I had to switch to a 15.4" screen and use a bunch of gorilla tape and superglue to get 1680x1050 on mine. I envy you G51 owners with full HD LED screens...

 

Sweet! Including ground shipping the cost is about $150, not a bad deal I think.

 

Hi,

I have a G51Vx-RX05 (Best Buy version). I purchased part 18G241560020 LCD TFT 15.6" FHD Glare (LED) from the ASUS Estore but its not working. I get a vertically interlaced picture with a very bright white/gray background. Text is very difficult to make out.

Any suggestions?

 

Nice job man. After all the upgrading though (CPU, HDD, LCD etc), it probably would have been cheaper and easier to just have gotten the G51J/JX lol.

 

Would it be too small to see on a 15.6" size with such a high-res? and does it look clear when you reduce your resolution to 1600x ?

 

To follow with the op, I've bought a wuxga screen on ebay and it works here are the references:

ebay announce title
NEW SCREEN ASUS G51J G51J3D G51VX 15.6 WUXGA GLOSSY LED

serial number (discovered at reception of the screen)
LP156WF1 (TL)(A1)

this is a different screen from the asus one since a search on estore.asus.com gives the reference AUO/B156HW01 V5(HW:0A) for the serial 18G241560020

 

@roubaozi

I tried all resolutions down to 640*480 and up to 1920*1080. Same interlaced pattern persisted.

Resizing/scaling screen thru Nvidia control panel was not useful.

 

@elfric

Was your laptop a G51VX-RX05 (bestbuy version)?

Thanks

 

yes it is.

 

I've tried and returned 3 screens so far with no success.

I guess its time to get back on the horse and try again.

One more question - did you update your bios?

 

no, i did nothing to the bios.
I just swapped the screens. nothing funky as the little ribbon cable corresponded.

 

I see there has not been a post here in a while bit this has been the most informative post I have seen so far. So here is the deal. I have the bestbuy version of the g51vx. I odered a screen from screen country using the model number you provided in the first post. When I went to the Asus estore they were out of stock. But when I put in that part number their site gave me the part number and manufacturer for the screen. The asus site depicted the model number and v5 looked to be the revision. Screen country shipped me the correct model number except with a v0 at the end of the model number. I tried to install the panel. Had it completely in, fired up the laptop and not even the back light turned on. It was dead as a door nail. So I turned the laptop off and reconnected the low res screen and turned the laptop on. The screen turned on and the machine booted properly. So, I am at a loss here. I would think even if the laptop couldn't support thebresolution of the screen that the backlights on the screen would light up at least. The connector fit properly. Could it be possible that the new panel uses more power an that is why it does not even turn on? Do you guys think this sounds like a DOA panel and I should just have them RMA it for the same model or should I ask for the correct revision? Thanks for the help.

 

I don't think revisions make a huge difference. I'd just return it for a v5.

 

I had a g51vx w/ FHD screen. It looks BEAUTIFUL.

 

Hi
I also have an G51VX-RX05 and I have tried with both of the LP156WF1 (TL) (A1) and the B156HW01 v.0 v0 screens. The first one I have blue line vertically across the screen and the second one I have white line vertically across the screen. This problem I saw is very similar to that of Rivaborn. I just wonder if any one can help to resolve the problem or any idea to fix this.
P.S This is my suspect though but not very sure : the inverter of the laptop is not compatible but I haven' seen any G51vx inverter or LCD cable on ebay. Thank a bunch for helping

 

I just tried LP156WF1 (TL)(A1) on my G51VX-RX05 (bestbuy version), unfortunately, it did not work out properly.
I didn't have interlaced line appeared on the screen, but the text and graphic on the screen were illegible, even in lower resolution.
Have anyone tried AUO B156HW01 Rev. 5? or it only works on people with more luck out of them.

 

I also have a G51VX from Best Buy and have tried the LP156WF1 (TL)(A1) that I purchased from screencountry.com with no luck. In my case the screen has a green tint, and it is also very hard to read.

I have been trying to figure this out for two days now, and I think I have made some progress. One thing that I have noticed is that about 5% to 10% of the time when I turn the laptop on everything is correct when it shows the republic of gamers logo. As it boots into windows, the windows logo screen is also correct. However once it fully boots and changes the resolution everything turns green and fuzzy. The other 90% to 95% of the time it is green and fuzzy from the very beginning. It is somewhat encouraging though that it will occasionally work correctly in the initial boot up display mode.

If I put the old panel back in, everything works fine.

I tried using NiBiTor to turn up all of the voltages to .95 in the video bios, but that didn't help. I also tried every combination of the "Force Adapter Scaling", "Skip DDC Scanning", and "Non-Native Panel Control" options from the More Boot Options screen (3 bits for 8 total combinations). This did not help either.

After tons of research I am beginning to think there may be some sort of LVDS timing issue. The GPU is sending a different signal then what the panel is expecting. Kind of like in the olden days when your CRT would go nuts when you set your video card to a refresh rate that wasn't supported. I suspect that there may be some sort of LVDS info embedded in either the video bios or the system bios that is hard coded to the lower res panel. Right now I am stuck trying to find this info, and hopefully figure out how to change it to the correct values.

Does anyone know anything about the technical details of LVDS signalling between the panel and the GPU, and how we might investigate this to determine if it is the problem?

 

I have created a support ticket with screencountry.com. Perhaps they can help us figure this out.

It would be really useful if one of you guys who has it working could post your system BIOS and video BIOS. Then we could quickly eliminate whether or not that is the problem.

Thanks.

 

the lp prefix means lg phillips.

just at random without information more people like lg screens than auo screens.

Any particular model could be different.

 

Indeed, it is an LG Phillips, but I did not request any particular brand. That is just what screen country sent out to me to go in a G51VX, so I guess I just got lucky in that regard.

I have seen other posts saying that they tried 2 LGs and 1 AUO in the same computer with no success, so I don't think it is an issue with the panel. I think it is really something specific to some of these computers.

I'm afraid that the guys who got this working have probably gone off to never never land to live happily ever after and we may not ever hear from them again. That's unfortunate since we could probably zero in on this a lot quicker if we had some good setups to compare against.

I wonder if we should start a new thread that doesn't say SUCCESS in the title. We might get more input if the thread title said something like "G51VX Screen Transplant - PLEASE HELP US!"

Here is the real time info on the new panel according to Monitor Asset Manager:

Monitor
Manufacturer............. LGD
Plug and Play ID......... LGD020B
Data string.............. H162K€156WF1
Serial number............ n/a
Manufacture date......... 2009, ISO week 0
-------------------------
EDID revision............ 1.3
Input signal type........ Digital
Color bit depth.......... Undefined
Display type............. RGB color
Screen size.............. 350 x 190 mm (15.7 in)
Power management......... Not supported
Extension blocs.......... None
-------------------------
DDC/CI................... Supported
MCCS revison............. 2.1
Display technology....... TFT
Controller............... Mstar 0x1600
Firmware revision........ 0.1
Firmware flags........... 0x0000005A
Active power on time..... Not supported
Power consumption........ Not supported
Current frequency........ 67.40kHz, 59.90Hz

Color characteristics
Default color space...... Non-sRGB
Display gamma............ 2.20
Red chromaticity......... Rx 0.617 - Ry 0.349
Green chromaticity....... Gx 0.313 - Gy 0.595
Blue chromaticity........ Bx 0.151 - By 0.056
White point (default).... Wx 0.313 - Wy 0.329
Additional descriptors... None

Timing characteristics
Range limits............. Not available
GTF standard............. Not supported
Additional descriptors... None
Preferred timing......... Yes
Native/preferred timing.. 1920x1080p at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1920x1080" 138.500 1920 1968 2000 2080 1080 1083 1088 1111 +hsync -vsync
Detailed timing #1....... 1920x1080p at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1920x1080" 138.500 1920 1968 2000 2080 1080 1083 1088 1111 +hsync -vsync

Standard timings supported

Report information
Date generated........... 12/1/2010
Software revision........ 2.53.0.861
Data source.............. Real-time 0x0100
Operating system......... 6.1.7600.2

Raw data
00,FF,FF,FF,FF,FF,FF,00,30,E4,0B,02,00,00,00,00,00,13,01,03,90,23,13,78,0A,15,D5,9E,59,50,98,26,
0E,50,54,00,00,00,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,1A,36,80,A0,70,38,1F,40,30,20,
35,00,59,C2,10,00,00,1B,1A,36,80,A0,70,38,1F,40,30,20,35,00,59,C2,10,00,00,1B,00,00,00,FE,00,48,
31,36,32,4B,80,31,35,36,57,46,31,0A,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,02,01,0A,20,20,00,E6

Maybe somebody that has it working can post their panel info so we can check for differences.

Thanks.

Here is a picture of the green screen that I took with my phone.

 

Well it looks like screen country tech support is not going to be of much help on this issue, although they are happy to allow me to return the screen for a refund. The thing is I would much prefer to figure out why it doesn't work and fix it. Now that I have the blu-ray burner installed I would really like to have a 1080 screen.

Here is their response:

Dec 02, 2010 0:23:27
Giedrius Tamosauskas wrote:
Please try logging in in Safe mode and uninstalling the drivers.




Please check this links:

Resolution upgrade or downgrade. Upgrade to LED laptop screen.

Screen issues simple troubleshooting tips

 

I found this posting on another forum: Trying to "upgrade" Laptop LCD - Monitors, Displays and Video Cards

This guy is getting the exact same display pattern that I am getting. He suggests that the problem is that the cable does not have enough wires, which seems like a very good possibility. That could explain the difference between the G51's that work with the higher res screen vs. the ones that don't. Perhaps the lucky guys got a cable that will work with the higher res screen, and the other guys like myself happen to have a presumably slightly less expensive cable that will only work with the low res screen. I wonder if there is a difference in the native color bits per pixel between the panels, which could explain why the higher res panels need a few more wires. I was looking at some wiring diagrams the other day and this at least seems plausible. I have seen references to panels with 24 bpp as well as 18 bpp. The 18 bpp panels just ignore the two low order bits of each color.

Does anybody have a source for the cable? We should be able to find out if the cables are different for factory models with the hi res screen vs. factory models with the low res screen. Maybe I will go find that "Epic" thread where the guy hard wired his updated display and take a close look at his wires...

Even if we can't find the cable for sale, if we can confirm that this is the problem we might be able to 1) make up a home made cable, 2) find a cable from a dead laptop on E-bay, or 3) find another panel that is compatible with the existing cable (although maybe giving up a couple of bits on the color channels).

Any help you guys can provide on this would be greatly appreciated.

More evidence that this could be a cable problem:

The WXGA to WUXGA LCD cable mod PT2 - seen here first!

I am familiar with the A and B data channels he refers to as I have seen them in the wiring diagrams. I wonder if our cable lacks the wires for the B data channel?

More evidence that it is the cable. All of the people who have had problems have reported 1 or more of the symptoms in the last item in bold. I personally have symptoms A and B. The info came from a site that sells laptop parts: Laptop Parts for ASUS | 1422-00PQ0AS (Over 10,000 notebook parts)

Do I have the correct cable?
* Each lcd cable is specific to the laptop from which it came out of. There are no substitutes for these cables. Substituting this part may result in damaging your laptop.
* When searching for a lcd cable make sure the make and model of the display in our Description matches yours.
* Verify the part number(s), description and our actual picture of the product.
* Touchpad, inverter cables and power button cables are specific for the model they are designed for and cannot be substituded.
* Common indications of a bad lcd cable are: (a) distorted colors (b) lines (c) white display, among others.

I have attached a picture of my LCD cable at the connector under the right hinge when viewed from the front. Could someone who has a 1920 x 1080 screen pop the hinge cover off of their computer and take a look at their cable? You don't need to remove any screws or anything, just pop off the hinge cover. Be careful not to break it. I have removed mine several times and it seems pretty robust, but be careful nonetheless.

From the picture (click it to enlarge) you can see that there are 4 wires missing from the connector. This is not uncommon, but I wonder if that is the difference in the cable between the laptops that work and those that don't. If someone who has a working screen could take a look at their cable and report back here, or maybe even post a picture, that would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance.

 

I completely disassembled my laptop again over the weekend and got out my digital multi-meter. I have traced all of the wires that go into the LCD panel, and I now know all of their functions.

There are 7 wires that go to the 20 pin connector under the right hinge cover (looking from the front). These 7 wires control the LED backlight. The 4 empty spots on the connector are normal. These are the 7 wires that were extended in the "Epic display mod" thread. If you disconnect that 20 pin connector, the backlight won't come on at all when you turn on the computer. However if you shine a flashlight on the screen you can see that the pixels are still being displayed properly. This connector has nothing to do with the issue we are seeing.

There are another 13 wires that go to the 40 pin connector under the left hinge cover. These are the signal wires for the display data channel. As it turns out, this cable only has enough wires for a single LVDS channel. That is all that is required for the original 1366 x 768 panel.

However the new panel at 1920 x 1080 requires more bandwidth in order to send all of those pixels over at 60 Hz. This is accomplished by adding a second data channel to the LVDS signal making it a dual channel LVDS system. The way it works is that the pixels in the even columns are sent over on one channel, and the pixels on the odd columns are simultaneously sent over on the other channel. This gives twice the bandwidth and can fully accommodate the higher resolution.

This also explains why we are seeing vertical lines when we install the high res panel. Every other column of pixels is not getting the data that should be sent across on the second channel, and therefore show up as black lines (or some random tint). This is very easy to confirm with test images that you can create in photoshop, which I did. The test image consists of a 1 pixel wide vertical white line alternating with a 1 pixel wide vertical black line. The test image looks gray when zoomed out and appears to display correctly when the black lines happen to fall on the second LVDS channel that is being omitted from the signal. However if you switch the order of the black and white lines in the test image, it will show up as completely black or some other random tint (very dark green in my case). This is because the white line now falls on the second LVDS channel, and is not displayed at all. These test images prove that the problem has to do with every other column of pixels being omitted.

Each LVDS data channel requires 8 signal wires to go into the display panel. My cable going to the left hinge is missing the 8 wires for the second channel. When tracing the 8 wires back for the existing channel, it becomes pretty obvious were the missing 8 wires should go to on the motherboard side of the connection. The 8 wires for the first channel all go to the front side of the 40 pin connector, and the back side of that connector has 8 missing wires that are right next to the 8 wires on the front. So it seems pretty obvious that the 8 missing wires on the back of the connector should map 1 to 1 with the 8 wires on the front, except they go to the corresponding identical signal on the second LVDS channel that is missing.

I am certain that both the video card and the mother board support dual channel LVDS. The only thing that is missing are the 8 wires that go from the mother board to the LCD panel to send the data for the second channel. So it appears that at least some of the Best Buy models came with a cable that only supported single channel LVDS, which is all that was required for the display panels that they actually shipped with. I am quite confident that if I can get those extra 8 signal wires from the mother board over to the panel everything will clear up and the image will be perfect.

So where does all of this leave me? Well I just purchased another cable off of E-bay that is for a G51. However I noticed that the part number for that cable is different than the part number on my cable by one letter. My cable has an "H" in one spot and the other cable has an "X" in that spot. I don't know if the cables are identical or not, but I am guessing/hoping that since the part numbers are different then the other cable will have the extra 8 wires (28 wires total). I have asked the guy to pull back the tape a little and take a picture or count the number of wires, but so far he has not done it. I went ahead and bought the cable any way though. I figure that if it turns out to have all 28 wires I should be able to just plug everything up and it will just work. However if it only has the same 20 wires that my cable has I can at least use it as a starting point to patch in the other 8 wires and make a home made cable, without risking my original cable in case something goes wrong. The wires and solder connections on this cable are very tiny, probably the smallest thing I have ever attempted to solder. And I once hand soldered some of those tiny surface mount resistors onto a mother board. If I completely destroy the cable at least I will still have my original to use in the laptop.

By the way, here is a very easy way to tell if you have the correct cable without having to take your laptop apart or even remove a single screw. All you have to do is remove the left hinge cover to reveal the 40 pin connector. Then peak underneath the tape. If the back row of the connector is missing 10 wires you have the wrong cable. If it is only missing two wires, then you are one of the lucky ones and have the correct cable. You should just be able to swap out the panels like some of the other guys who reported that everything was plug and play.

Once the cable comes in I will report back and let everyone know if it is the correct part number and if it solves the problem. If I end up having to make a cable I will let everyone know how that turns out as well.

The bottom line is that I am absolutely certain that if we can come up with a G51 cable that has all 28 wires for dual channel we will be in business.

 

Holy crap. Nice work, triddle. Makes complete sense, too. Does the motherboard support the full 28 wire cable?

 

It appears that it does, although I did not attempt to follow the traces and see if they headed over to the MXM connector. Once I realized that the cable was missing the 8 wires for the second channel I went off in search of the correct cable. The GPU definitely supports it, and I can't see them making 2 different versions of the motherboard with the only difference being that one of them is missing 8 traces going over to the GPU. This functionality is all part of the GPU, so the only thing the motherboard needs to do is provide the 8 pass through traces over to the connector.

I can see them skipping the 8 wires in the cable though if they are not needed. These cables are very tedious to make, and I am really hoping that I don't have to add in the 8 wires myself. But I will make an attempt if it comes to that, since I have a spare cable on the way now.

 

I will go ahead and post the pin out here from my notes just in case someone needs it in the future. The wires on the front of the 40 pin connector are correct based on my cable. The 8 wires on the back of the 40 pin connector for the LVDS Even signals are an educated guess, but if you study the pin out I think you will probably come to the same conclusion. However it has not been confirmed yet.

Left Hinge 40 Pin Motherboard (MB) Connector

Back of the computer
┌──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬┐
┌┤21│22│23│24│25│26│27│28│29│30│31│32│33│34│35│36│37│38│39│40├┘
│├──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┤
└┤1│2│3│4│5│6│7│8│9│10│11│12│13│14│15│16│17│18│19│20├┐
└──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴┘
Front of the computer

Right Hinge 20 Pin Motherboard (MB) Connector

Back of the computer
┌──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬┐
┌┤51│52│53│54│55│56│57│58│59│60├┘
│├──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┼──┤
└┤41│42│43│44│45│46│47│48│49│50├┐
└──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴┘
Front of the computer

LCD to Motherboard (MB) Pin Assignments
┌───┬───┬─────────┬──────────────────────────────────────┐
│LCD│MB│Symbol│Purpose│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│1││││
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│2│1│Vcc│Power Supply +3.3 V (typical)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│3│2│Vcc│Power Supply +3.3 V (typical)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│4│21│V_EDID│DDC 3.3V Power│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│5││││
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│6│22│CLK_EDID│DDC Clock│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│7│23│DATA_EDID│DDC Data│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│8│5│RXO0-│LVDS Differential Data Input (Odd)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│9│6│RXO0+│LVDS Differential Data Input (Odd)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│10││││
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│11│8│RXO1-│LVDS Differential Data Input (Odd)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│12│9│RXO1+│LVDS Differential Data Input (Odd)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│13││││
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│14│11│RXO2-│LVDS Differential Data Input (Odd)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│15│12│RXO2+│LVDS Differential Data Input (Odd)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│16││││
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│17│14│RXOC-│LVDS Clock Data Input (Odd)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│18│15│RXOC+│LVDS Clock Data Input (Odd)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│19││││
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│20│25│RxE0-│LVDS Differential Data Input (Even)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│21│26│RxE0+│LVDS Differential Data Input (Even)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│22││││
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│23│28│RxE1-│LVDS Differential Data Input (Even)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│24│29│RxE1+│LVDS Differential Data Input (Even)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│25││││
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│26│31│RxE2-│LVDS Differential Data Input (Even)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│27│32│RxE2+│LVDS Differential Data Input (Even)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│28││││
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│29│34│RXEC-│LVDS Clock Data Input (Even)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│30│35│RXEC+│LVDS Clock Data Input (Even)│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│31│45│LED_GND│LED Ground│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│32│46│LED_GND│LED Ground│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│33│55│LED_GND│LED Ground│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│34││││
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│35│44│LED_PWM│PWM Control Signal of LED Converter│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│36│43│LED_EN│Enable Control Signal of LED Converter│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│37││││
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│38││LED_VCCS│LED Power│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│39│41│LED_VCCS│LED Power│
├───┼───┼─────────┼──────────────────────────────────────┤
│40│42│LED_VCCS│LED Power│
└───┴───┴─────────┴──────────────────────────────────────┘

 

The cable that I bought off of E-bay came in a few weeks ago. Unfortunately it was identical to the cable I already had and was missing the extra 8 wires. I tried to make a home made cable but everything was just too tiny for me to be able to get good connections without shorting out against the adjacent wire.

So for the last couple of weeks I have been trying to find the correct cable, or at least the part number for the correct cable. If I could at least come up with a part number that would work I could probably find somewhere to buy the cable.

If anyone has a G51 with 1920 x 1080 resolution and could tell us the part number for the cable that would be awesome.

Thanks for the help.

 

sweet lord!nice catch triddle. BTW thread starter,can you provide me your screen panel device ID.the one before you upgraded to 1080p.
coz mine stating LGD01E8..
oh FYI triddle,i opened the the hinge cover as yours..but unfortunately it was covered with some rubber glue or something..i dont feel brave enough to mess with it yet..i'll let you know if i did.

 

Interesting info triddle and everything does seem to make sense. This seems like a project I would like to get into myself. So I popped open the left hinge and saw that only a total of 3 wires were missing from the back row but the rest of the connectors in the back row had a wire going through it. I'm pretty sure that my cable is dual channel but I wanted to get some type of confirmation before placing an order for a LP156WF1 (TL)(A1) screen to test out.

 

It probably is just that really sticky black tape that they use, but be careful any way if you decide to try and peel it back. I have found out that these replacement cables are hard to track down.

Congratulations! You are one of the lucky ones! I am about 99% sure that you have the correct cable. But remember... I am just some random idiot on the internet, so I could be totally wrong. I don't think I'm wrong, but since I can't find anywhere to buy the correct cable I have not been able to confirm any of this, so it is still just theory at this point. A sound theory based on facts and evidence, but theory nonetheless.

What I can say for certain: from the picture you posted your cable definitely has at least some of the wires that my cable is missing. And the extra wires I can see are in the correct locations according to my research.

After looking at the picture again I am going to up that to 99 44/100% sure that you have the correct cable.

If you decide to upgrade your screen, it should just be plug and play. Do all of us unlucky guys a huge favor though: when you take your laptop apart to install the new screen, take a picture of the cable where we can clearly see the part number and post it up here. You will be doing a lot of us a huge favor if you do that. We will probably be able to track down somewhere to buy the cable if we can get that part number.

Thanks in advance.

By the way, I am only seeing 2 wires missing in the picture. Count the number of empty white squares. I could be wrong, but I only see 2, which is exactly what I was predicting. If you recheck your cable and you do indeed have 3 wires missing, that may be a sign for concern before you order a replacement screen. Please let us know if you do in fact have 3 wires missing on that back row.

Here is a link to a post where I give some steps to take everything apart if you want to read it. It is pretty straight forward, but it might be interesting for you to read it if you have never taken apart your laptop before.

 

Any luck on this? I'm looking into purchasing one of these screens off ebay such as this one:
ASUS G51VX LAPTOP LCD SCREEN 15.6" Full-HD - eBay (item 250651871060 end time Feb-10-11 11:16:27 PST)

I am going to tear my laptop apart tonight and look at the cable to see if it's the right one. I may take a picture of it and post it just to get triddles "professional" opinion.

 

triddle, can you confirm that it is a case of (not) missing wires from the backrow? I think i'm missing two or three wires (from that row).

Thanks!

 

Congrats!!! XD

 

Sorry, I still can't confirm this for sure. I still have not been able to track down the correct cable, or find the part number. I check back here every week or so to see if any of these guys that have the correct cable have come back on to post the part number, but so far no luck.

But... if you are only missing 2 wires on that back row then you should be in good shape. Plug and Play. Just make sure you are looking at the cable under the hinge cover that is next to the power connector and not the other one.

 

Is this it?

Wholesale Brand New 40pins Laptop LCD Screen Extension FPC Cable Adapter

Available model for your reference:



LTN156AT03,HSD101PFW2,LP156WH2-TLA1,LP156WF1,LP173WD1,N101N6-L02,N101L6-L02,N101L6-L01,N140B6-L02,N156B6-L04,B101EW01,B116AW02,B121EW10,B133XW02,B156XW03,B101AW02,B140WX02

 

Hey Triddle, can you post a picture of the wires in your left hinge? I just want to see exactly what your missing. I'm about to place an order on a new screen within a week or so but I just wanted to confirm something before placing it. When I do get my hands on the new screen, I'll be sure to leave some feedback. Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, I was looking at the right side. Thanks for the info. It will take a while before I'm going to replace the screen, because I'm a little out of money at the moment.

 

I know this forum has been dead for a while, but I want you all to know that I have found the cable that is required to run the 1080p screen. The asus part number is 1422-00GQ000. It can be found at Cloning Computers or this link https://www.cloningpc.com/1422-00GQ000.html

I have not had the chance to try it out, but I did buy the cable. It looks very different than the cables that are currently in the G51vx-rx05 and X1 models. The 1422-00GQ000 cable feels and looks alittle thicker, there is like plastic shielding around the extra wires but they are there if you look at the connector closely. Instead of the tape that is used to secure the LVDS to the LCD connection, this cable has a metal clip. I will post pictures of it tonight. I assumed that the Q in the cable's part number was and indicator for Quad-Core, and It appears as though I might be right! The cable does fit, I have connected it to my current 720p screen and it works flawless, I have not however tried it on a 1080p screen!

The part number is 1422-00GQ000, it can be found at this link on cloningpc.com. https://www.cloningpc.com/1422-00GQ000.html
I purchased the cable and let me tell you it is the same design but total different internally. It is slightly beefer. I took Pics and will post them soon.

 

Has anyone tried this 1422-00GQ000?

 

I have, the cable is working perfect with my 720p screen. I will keep you posted when I upgrade to the 1080p screen. This is the cable that comes from a G51vx-A1. I can't verify the wire count because this cable has a plastic shield around it that is bonded to the connector, give me your email address and I will send you the pics of it.

 

Hi SPECTRE20_us, did you finally get your 1080p screen and did it work with the new cable?

 

Yes, it worked! I'm sorry it took me so long to respond! Their is no color flickering or anything! The cable as I mentioned in my previous post doesn't have that cheap look and feel as the LVDS cable that comes with the RX05 does. This cable has a metal clip instead of the tape to secure the connection to the screen. The wire at the 2 connectors doesn't have that fabric crap around them, they have like a rubber seal that prevents the wire from showing and possible damage. So far this is one issue that I have solved! The next one is getting a quad to work, the A1 models use a 150w adapter opposed to the RX05 model which uses a 120w power adapter. The amps are different as well!

 

The link to cloningpc.com did not work just now, but I found it on another site and placed an order. I will post back here when I get the cable. It will be a couple of weeks before the part comes in.

ASUS 1422-00GQ000 ASUS LCD CABLE Refurbished

Thanks for trying this out. I already bought one cable that was the same thing I already had, so I didn't want to buy another one until I had a confirmed working part number. Now if I can only dig around in the closet and find that LCD panel...

 

I just received the cable from Code Micro. The shipping was fast, even though I didn't give them the kidney they wanted for any of the expedited shipping options and just went with the free shipping.

Unfortunately it is the wrong part. It is missing the extra wires and is identical to my old cable.

I guess we will see how good their customer service is.

 

This thread is very confusing can someone please give me the part numbers I need to replace the Chi Mei N156B6-L04 with a 1080p monitor.

 

I have received some private messages asking for a status update. Sorry for the delayed response, but I never got the e-mail notification from the private messages. It seems that there are so many unsolicited spam e-mails coming from notebook review these days that everything gets marked as spam.

Unfortunately I never did get the correct cable. I have tried several that I have bought off e-bay or used parts dealers. Regardless of the part number, all of the ones that I have tried have been identical to my old cable. I'm certain that it would work just great if I could find a cable with enough wires. It appears that there are multiple part numbers for this cable, and I have not determined a sure fire way to identify the correct cable without looking at it up close. Of course, that is very hard to do when buying the cable over the internet.

 

I think I have the correct cable and was looking for a LCD. Does anyone have one they want to sell or can suggest a good vendor? Ill post back my results and hopefully can give another part number that works.