Repasting GPU. few questions

So I'm planning to repaste my GPU since I'm getting 90+C on some games at max settings. I have no idea what repaste is, but im willing to do it. I did read some thread here about it and now I got a little idea what it is. I would actually love to learn it. First, what do I need? tools and othe stuffs.(please list all of them). I watched the youtube video of disassembly and I guess I can manage to do it by myself. Also, I heard of those ICD7 etc etc... which one should I use? any recommendation?..... Also, since I'm doing iton GPU, should I do it also on my CPU?? is it the same?? or there's special instructions on repasting CPU? anything else that I must know before doing it will be greatly appreciated... Thank you btw, I'm excited on doing it.

 

It shouldn't matter too much about what paste you use, as long as you apply it correctly.

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You will need to change the paste on the GPU, CPU and anything else that already has paste on it.

 

Nice video! Simple, yet very informative.

 

Only problem with that clip is notebook heatsinks dont get that much force and retention to spread the paste all the way.

Notice how hard he is pushing down on the CPU.

 

Unless you mod your heatsink and use non-stock screws, I bent my heatsink with the force from the screws, not recommending it though.

 

isnt that bad for cpu??.. since u shouldnt give that much pressure on it....

so does that mean that repasting means getiing to gpu... put the paste.. spread it... and then put them back???

 

I wouldn't spread the paste, I would put a drop on the GPU and let the heatsink spread it out. But it's up to you.

Your temps should go down either way, and it will also help if you clean out the dust.

 

I just opened mine up last night and repasted

Was it hard? Nope the only hard part was getting the keyboard off but I managed to take her off with delicate care and she is sitting better then when i got it back from RMA lol.

 

what thermal did u use??? and did you repaste your CPU too?

 

How do you do it? Easy, you go to the manufacturer's website and look for guides. Almost every manufacturer has their own recommended method with picture and video demonstrations on how to do it.

For example, ICD7 and OCZ Extreme are both drop methods, put in the center, place the heatsink on tightly, let the pressure and heat spread it. Grinding the heatsink or twisting it on the CPU is not recommended. Just place right on top correctly and screw on tightly. Run a stress test like Furmark or whatever and let the heat spread it. Run it for about 30 minutes or hour and it should be all spread out as it should be.

Arctic Silver 5 for mobile i7 is recommended to spread. Whereas for desktop i7 they recommend a thin line.

Also for AS5, ICD7 and OZC Extreme it's recommended to tint the heatsink. Meaning you put a very small amount on the heatsink and then spread it on. It should be very faint, see through still. Just gives the heatsink a grayish hint to it. This will reduce the curing time on AS5 and helps ICD7 and OZC to spread reducing chance of air pocket. Tinting with ICD7 is difficult, gotta use a lot of pressure, recommended heat up ICD7 with some running hot water first. Remember tinting is very little. Like a very very small drop and then spread that drop all over. It should not be a solid coloring, just tinting.

Don't worry too much about the amount with OCZ, or ICD7 as they are non-conductive. The pressure from the heatsink and heat will spread it thinly to the right amount. More is better. You want just a small amount, but if unsure, put a speck more.

For MX-4 and AS5 where you may spread it, you want to spread it as thin as possible. Just enough so you cover the CPU and can't see it, but just barely. Thinner the better.

Also don't worry about hurting your GPU with ICD7 or any other TIM. Whether you use ICD7, MX-4, OZC, AS5 they all contain carbon particles. Diamond or aluminum oxide (colorless rubies). Both Diamonds and rubies are the hardest minerals and among hardest materials we know of. But these are ground so fine, microscopic particles they won't scratch, they will actually polish. Fine polish for glassware etc are actually diamond powder.
- If some who claim ICD7 or other TIM scratched their GPU, then they did it wrong. They twisted and grinded the heatsink on top of the GPU thinking that will help spread it. More than likely it's the rubbing of heatsink on top of GPU that scratched it. Again, do not do this. Just place your heatsink right on top, carefully screw down the heatsink tightly. Then just run Furmark or some other stress test to heat up, and allow the heat and pressure to spread it.

Also don't redo paste on CPU. The temps on CPU are fine and if you rip the sticker, it will void your warranty. This means if you ever need to repair your unit, they will send it back to you or charge you for the parts and labor.

 

I redid my cpu paste and when I sent it back for rma for something else they put a brand new sticker on my cpu right over the old one for no charge. It most likely depends on who's working on your laptop.

 

Agree, but there are also people who were told warranty voided. There isn't any point in risking it when the temps are fine and won't lower much with re-paste.

 

I went from 100c stock / 114c (thermal shutdown) OC'd @ 10%
to
78c stock and 92c OC'd @ 15%

bios 209, vbios v3 (the "everything perfect except powerplay" one found in this forum) and 10.8 cats.

Used AS5 first, then a week later I redid it with ICD. AS5 temps were 5-9c higherthan my current ICD temps; very good stuff. No reason not to do the cpu as well since you'll already be there.

 

I've been using ICD and it has scuffed up my CPU and GPU.

I don't twist or grind the heatsink.

I think it happens when I clean the ICD off. I do change my thermal paste every couple of weeks when I clean out the dust.

In fact I used ICD to polish my heatsink so I can tell you it is the paste and not the heatsink scratching the die.

I didn't have any scratches with any other paste, but I don't care about scratches, all I care about is cooling and ICD works well.

 

I do have a question, by repasting the GPU doesnt it void the warranty? I havent found anything on the forum about it. then again i'm bad searcher...

 

You modify any internal parts without their consent and it technically voids the warranty for that part but most manufacturers will void the warranty for your whole machine if they find you tampered with it and something broke.

Most of the time they cant even tell though, unless they have tamper stickers. This one makes me laugh (not from a notebook)

 

I used artic silver which in my opinion is better then IC diamond but in all respect you should know how to apply it im sitting on reg temps after applying tim at 49c and i played fall out 3 for 4 hours and i went up to 65c playing maxed out on ccc never chocked or stuttered

I did repaste the cpu.

and to the poster above me...luckily i did repaste my cpu and my gpu if i didn't i would have never found out when i sent my baby for a RMA that they didn't put the screws in the mother board and the fans where lose the tape that holds the back of the fans where basically in the hole where the vent is at so how in the heck would my baby get any circulation wth... i hope i never get to see another RMA....

 

You may want to consider flashing to the 211 BIOS. The 211 bios increase the fan RPMs for better cooling. When I flashed from 209 to 211 and upgraded the vBIOS, I went from 105+C and thermal shutdown in Furmark to a manageable 91C. Now repasted with ICD7 I am 83C.

 

Update to Bios 211, better fan settings. Fans aren't louder at idle, but they will kick in to try to keep your temps in the 80Cs depending on your cooling setup.

The vBios 3 is based on a modded driver that doesn't have a GSOD fix. You should use a modded driver based on the latest vBios with GSOD fix.

Uploaded a modded version I'm using with 100/150 battery mode and 200/300 UVD with OverDrive working. Voltage are unchanged, have not noticed any lower temps at all or battery life by changing voltage. Suspect it's hardware locked.

The way I'm using it is by using hotkey profile for PowerPlay in CCC. I set Ctrl Alt I for Battery when doing 2D work or video watching. Set Ctrl Alt P hotkey for 3D with OverDrive enabled. OverDrive I found permanently fixes your memory clock, which raises temps significantly. Difference of Idle 44C to 51C. This method is the same as outlined in the thread for the V3.

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