green flickering screen g60vx

So i was using this laptop all fine, got it 7/38 of this year. i usually bring it with me to class. so today after putting it in b\my backpack and taking it out, the screen is strange. It started to flicker green pixels, looks all fuzzy and distorted, there are some pink and purple. Screen isnt cracked or anything i think it might be the connector, but idk what to do =(

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/8139/1206002351.jpg

i also hooked it up to an external monitor, it works. This occurs during boot and bios =((((((

 

Looks like a G51.

You don't have this problem on an external monitor? Sounds like a possible LVDS cable problem. It's inside the left hinge, you can try pushing down on it to make sure it's connected properly.

Edit: pushing down on the connector I mean. You'll have to get the hinge off by squeezing it and pulling on it, with the laptop lid closed. You can get a fingernail into the edge of it and pull up too, either way works.

 

i have an ASUS g60vx, by the left hinge is it the silver thing ? i tried pulling that out but its a little hard, im afraid to break it.

 

Dont pull LOL.

Its (edit: I mean the silver thing) actually screwed in from under the bezel. Thats not for playing with its for show.

 

No, the hinge cover can be seen in this pic from the http://forum.notebookreview.com/asu...8551-asus-g50-notebook-disassembly-guide.html which also applies to the G51/G60 chassis. You can see the LVDS cable in the pic with it removed.

Spoiler

 

if i cant pull that how can i check the LVDS cable?

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/8792/1207000138.jpg

nvm got the guide. well i posted another picture of what it looks like, ill give this a shot tomorrow, its late and im going to go to bed, thanks

 

Check the above post by ALLurGroceries its the black cover that's accessible when the lid is down.

I forgot that did that. Last two laptops I took apart weren't my asus.

 

Yeah that looks like a likely LVDS cable problem, wrong hues/hueshift. See my post above, I guess I said hinge and meant hinge cover, sorry about not being clear.

 

do i have to disassemble eveyrthing before i can remove teh hinges?

 

No just gently persuade it to go up i just took myne off with my bare hands.

You can pop the outside and then open the lid to persuade the otherside but the lid has to be down to remove. It may take some effort.

 

No not at all. You need to close the laptop lid and then either pick the edge of it with your fingernail and pry up, or squeeze it and lift up. It takes a little bit of force, but be careful and you won't break the tabs. You don't need any tools, but if you had a prytool or a guitar pick that would work to pry it off.

 

okay what should i do after i take that off? should my laptop be off for this too?

 

Id recommend it.

With it on - Push on the connector to see a difference.

With it off - remove and reconnect the connector.

 

okay i just tried pushing it down no difference ill continue this tomorrow, i hope you guys will be on =X thanks for the help hopefully i can fix this i dont have money right now to repair it and i dont have the 1 year warranty since i bought it refurbished

 

It could be a problem on the connector or with the cable itself. It'll be hard to know. Maybe you can try flexing the cable a bit and see if that changes anything. Be super careful if you remove that cable.

 

It could also be the other end of that cable, where it connects to the LCD panel. The LCD side of the connection is pretty flimsy.

Unfortunately you will have to disassemble the laptop to get at the other end of the cable.

If you want to give it a shot let us know and I can give you more details on how to disassemble it and test the cable.

 

yeah can i get the details on that? theres a small wire in the way and it looks like if i remove the thing it will be cut... it looks risky, tried wiggling it too.

 

Sure, no problem. I have become quite the expert on taking the screen out this last week.

There should be 3 screws holding in each hinge. There is 1 under the hinge cover that is also connecting a ground wire to the metal hinge. Once you remove this screw you can move the small ground wire to the side a little. Then there is the second smaller screw on the back underneath a plastic circle cover. You will have to pry the plastic cover off with a screw driver. It is just stuck on there with a little sticky goo, it should be easy to remove. Don't lose it, you will probably want to stick it back on there when you are done. Then there is the 3rd screw on the bottom, directly underneath the hinge. This screw on the bottom is right next to another screw on the outside corner. You don't want the outside screw, it is for the laptop case. You want the second screw from the edge for the hinge.

Once you remove those 6 screws (3 for each hinge), you will then need to disconnect the white 40 pin connector on the left side and the white 20 pin connector on the right side. These connectors just plug in and you should be able to pull them straight up and disconnect them easily. I would not pull on the wires though, pry them up gently on the white plastic part with a small screw driver or something flat.

At this point you will be able to pull the whole panel straight up and remove it from the laptop body. However the 3 wireless antennae wires will still be going into the screen case. These 3 wires are pretty small. They are easily identified. They are routed through the left hinge where the 40 pin connector is located. On my machine 1 wire is white, the other is gray, and the 3rd is black.

The small wire you are seeing is probably one of the antennae wires. If you look closely there should be 3 of them.

You don't have to disconnect the antennae wires to get at the screen. There should be enough slack for you to flip the display open and lay it back flat next to the laptop chassis.

If you decide to do this, be very careful. You will be dealing with very small parts and you might break something. If you are careful then you should be OK. But if you are not comfortable doing this I would advise you not to take a chance.

Once you have the screen laying flat on the table you can remove the front bezel. This is held on by 6 tiny screws underneath those little rubber circles. There is one screw at each corner (4 total), and then there are 2 more in the top center close to the web cam, under the long rubber top piece. These two are on the big end of the rubber triangle piece, close to the web cam. You will need to remove the rubber circles, but you can just pry back the long triangle piece a little bit to expose the middle top screws.

Be careful to keep all of the different screws separate so that you don't lose them or get them mixed up. At this point you should have 3 different types of screws. I recommend that you grab several small coffee cups from the kitchen or other small containers to keep these separated in. You should have 4 identical long screws that came from the top and bottom of each hinge. Another 2 smaller screws that came from the back of the hinge. And then finally 6 small screws that hold the front screen bezel in place. Also you should have 4 rubber circle screw cover pads and 2 small plastic covers from the back hinge screw. Don't lose this stuff or get it mixed up!

Now that you have the screws off the front bezel you can snap it off. You will have to pry it a little to get it off. As you pry the two pieces apart, be sure to push the top panel toward the center of the screen as you go. There are some very small plastic snaps in there that can easily break if you pry the top straight up. Trust me, I speak from experience here. But if you push the top part toward the center of the screen, away from the edge, it will help take the strain off of the snap connectors. Don't worry too much about these guys, if you break one it is not the end of the world.

Now you should have the LCD panel exposed. There are 4 screws on each side holding this panel in to the back cover. You will need to remove these 8 screws.

Once those screws are out you should be able to lift the LCD panel up from the back cover. The big gray LVDS cable will still be attached, so you won't be able to move it very far. The cable is stuck to the panel and the cover with some more of that sticky goo, so there will be a little resistance. Just make sure the resistance is the sticky stuff on the cable and gently pull it away. The cable will also go up to the top of the screen where the web cam and the microphone are located. You don't have to completely remove the cable, you can leave it connected at the top. You just need to pull it away from the back cover so that you can get enough slack to look at the back of the LCD panel.

Once you have the cable unstuck you should be able to look at the back of the LCD panel and get to the connector. It is a long, very thin metal connector on the back of the panel, and it also has a piece of thick plastic tape holding it in place. It locks into place. You should be able to pull it straight down and inspect everything. If there are no obvious issues, broken wires, etc., then you can try to clean and then re-seat the connector to see if you just had a bad connection.

Once you have the connection back the way you want it, you should be able to just reconnect the white 40 pin connector on the left hinge and the 20 pin connector on the right hinge. You do not have to reconnect the black ground wires with the screws. Once you have everything connected you can turn on your laptop and see how the screen looks. You don't have to put it back together at this point while you are testing things.

If it looks good then turn off the laptop and reverse the procedure to put everything back together. If it still looks bad then try wiggling the cable and the connectors. If it still looks bad then you probably have either a bad cable or a bad LCD panel. If you get this far, and you have a multi-meter, I can give you the pin out of the cable so that you can check the cable. If you have to replace the cable it will cost you somewhere between $30 to $70, and that is if you can find one. I don't know of anywhere to buy a new one, and used ones are pretty scarce. I can help you find one though if you need to replace the cable.

If the cable is good, then you may have to replace the panel. The panel should be somewhere around $150. It would be good if you had a friend with one of these laptops who would be willing to let you try your panel in his computer before you order a new one. That would definitely allow you to zero in on the problem and trouble shoot things further.

Hopefully it will just be a loose connection though. Good Luck! Be very careful if you decide to do this.

By the way, do you have access to another computer to get on the forum while you are taking apart your laptop, and maybe post some pictures? That would probably be good in case you run into a problem. I should be online most of the night in case you have any questions.

 

I just posted the pin out over in another thread if you want to test the cable: http://forum.notebookreview.com/asus-gaming-notebook-forum/465074-g51vx-screen-transplant-success-3.html#post6949899

 

okay thanks ihavent tried it yet but I think I will do it this weekend. I will contact you if i need any help, i have to study for finals next week

 

okay i tried wiggling both connectors on the left and right hinge, didn't do anything. I haven't reset connection yet, I will do that when my friend that toook his laptop apart before can help me. I found that by wiggling the screen, sometimes the whole laptop, the pixel just disappeared. then about 5 minutes later it will reappear if there is movement. Then if i wiggle either the screen or the laptop and itll disappear, then reappear again. sometimes wiggling doesnt work either, its just a temp fix.

edit, since wiggling doesnt work all the time, i found hat if i tap down the screen, it makes the color go away and back to normal. THe laptop is open and i just tapped the top of the LCD screen down. hopefully this will be it *knock on wood*