ASUS G73SW Owners' Lounge

At work we use Areca 1680 controllers with 32 15krpm SAS 147G drives for our databases and 12 to 24 2TB drives for file servers. We routinely get sequential read / write speeds of 1GB/sec and random IOPS in the 100k range on them. Freaking fast. Just to add to the drool factor, these are 48 core Magny Cours Opteron machines that can push data into / out of memory at ~70GB/second.

The Areca 1680/1880 web interface rocks. We had a problem with a machine in Denver and I was in Chicago. Connected via my Hotel's Wifi I updated the firmware in the RAID controller from 1,000 miles away. I've also forced RAID arrays to rebuild with it etc. Makes the interfaces to LSI RAID controllers look like something written by an 8 year old.

If anyone's interested in a decent Areca for less, their older 11xx/12xx series are rock solid and pretty good performers too, but not in the same realm as the 1680/1880 controllers. but for the cost they're fantastic older tech cards.

 

Just bought Garry's Mod on Steam, and it sure is a system hog, never had a game work both my CPU and GPU so hard before. In almost any other game (Crysis and Oblivion for example) the GPU bears most of the load, but this one maxes out everything! Both are going over 80 degrees celcius at times . . .

 

I just knew somebody else would pick up on my "consumer's fastest RAID controller and HD systems", and lo and behold it's a fellow IT Pro who uses the little monsters with 15K SAS HD's, near and dear to my heart but needing lots of maintenance at times, too, so I Pasadena'd on them for my OEM home brew X58-based rig. But what sweet music that setup he wrote about would make, Holy TOLEDO Batman! Such a scene would warm my big heart and then some, so way to go with yer work!

OK, I am done with this totally OT stuff about desktops, just wanted to give a comparative for you SSD freaks here, as Pro-rig Areca 1680/1880-based RAID systems will knock any SSD out of the ball park, and call it a Home Run too! There is RAID, and then there is Areca Hardware RAID, and if any of you get the chance to work with such a system, or own one for that matter, do NOT turn the opportunity down, you will be in Pig Heaven bar none with such a thing in hand! HARDWARE RAID=MMmmm-Mmmmm Gooood!

You all please forgive us for indulging in the Hardware RAID stuff, but once you've tried it you will never, ever go back to conventional RAID systems!

Back to notebooks 100% now, I promise...!

rexrzer727

 

Anyone have a link to a tear down of the laptop. Particularly the monitor. I have the Intel 6300 Ultimate, and a third antenna, but I dont want to go all crazy on the monitor without some guidance. I need to know how to tear this girl down to route this antenna through the monitor area.

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/asu...475907-asus-g73-series-disassembly-guide.html

If there's anything else, see also http://forum.notebookreview.com/asu...blems-useful-threads-read-before-posting.html

 

For some reason I can't seem to overclock the GPU using RivaTuner so I resorted to EVGA precision which is pretty good also. I've managed to get the core clock to 855, shader to 1710 and memory clock to 1500. I ran furmark at max resolution+full screen for ~10 minutes and I'm getting around 80 degrees Celsius. Can anybody tell me if that's a safe temperature? Stock settings is around 74 degrees.

Keep in mind I got the water downed BST6 version with the 1GB video memory and 1600x900 screen.

Thanks!

 

You really posed a difficult question because nobody here has that "watered down BST6" version of the series, not anybody posting these days anyway. So everything that somebody tells you will be "watered down estimates of real temps", and I don't know if that is going to really do you any good...but here goes.

First of all you aren't testing the system hard enough, I'll tell you that right now! If you are using Furmark, to get these so-called results, STOP! Download OCCT v3.1 from the nice Russian web site where they are from and try THAT utility for starters. You can define the length of time for a test easily, it does GPU and Memory testing both for video cards, and best of all it GRAPHS every single test you do in your Documents/OCCT files which it makes for you fresh, every time.

Try a 25-minute Full Bore GPU Test for starters, and ramp up the difficulty of the shaders to "8", or the highest setting in OCCT v3.1 for shaders, put the sucker on "Go" and let her RIP! If your temps stay sane after such a test then I think you can call it a day, good for you and good for the machine...but, NOT YET! Ramp up the Memory test next in OCCT, and hit that one with a vengeance, too! Memory errors are the most common cause of video card failures and poor performance, so test the RAM for the 2+ minute cycle that is the base setting, and see how it does...

Did you get any errors in the Memory test? Are you overclocked? If you got them overclocked the memory VRAM doesn't like your settings, so reduce the overclock and test again! Do that until you don't get errors in the 2 minute test, and then go for the throat of your card and test the Memory test for 10 minutes straight next time, better yet 15 minutes...you get my drift? OCCT I like a LOT for testing video cards, while Furmark is a nice visual display without any testing per se within the programming, so it's USELESS for me but for stressing an SLI setup to the max, and then some, but then again you can do the same testing in OCCT and it will be graphed 100% of the time, so OCCT wins again!

That is my recommendation for your so-called testing, which you have not done yet, so get busy and test with some goals and purpose and have an idea of what you want to see for a result and structure your overclocks based on errors in the exam, end of story! Otherwise you're just burning up the card in Furmark for no good reason, other end of story!

Good luck, and there's hope for you yet because you asked here if your testing was a good thing, and I've just told you: "It isn't! It will be good when you use OCCT though, so get busy doin' that ok?"

rexrzer727

 

Rexrzer did you find a fix for the shape of the asus vs the blu ray burners? So far I havn't found any real fixes to the design of the laptop vs the shape of the blue ray burners. I do have a router that is hooked up to a couple of usb devices in order to share them, and I can link a blu ray burner in via my home network. I was just considering blu ray burners directly installed but the asus designers didn't make that easy lol.

 

Hey everyone, could you kindly report if you see any banding in this screenshot? I am wondering if banding is a problem for all monitors in the G73, or if something is wrong with mine. In this image I have pretty bad banding on the outer parts of the sun's gradient, and even some horizontal banding on the Netflix control bar. Currently using the 275.33 drivers. Thanks!

Edit: Didn't mean to stretch the page. Click here - Imageshack.

 

I see banding, but the problem is the source, not the monitor.

 

That's easy: there is no FIX to the situation, there is however a normal thing that techs do when fitting a new optical drive of any sort at all, no matter what it is!

All you do is pop the face plate off the Sheeta BluRay burner, and then remove the face plate off the Sony (in my case) BluRay burner and swap them out! It's just that simplistic, no tricks, no voodoo hoodoo, nada but 'Net on this one, so it's on me this time.

I've taken apart and fixed many Mac/Apple notebook optical drives also, and we always even then had to match up the face plate on the new drive with the OEM face plate from the existing bad drive, you dig? It's nothing new really, it's Old School stuff.

The face plates pop straight off, as there are two "catches" on the face plates, about 5-7mm in from the edges and you can see those plain as day if you take the time to look at the construction of the face plates in question. EVERY optical drive has the same thing going for it, brand by brand it doesn't matter, it's a generic mounting for the mkr's plate and the same for the OEM or replacement optical drive you are installing. Piece of cake! :yes:

rexrzer727

 

This may sound like a silly question to all of you, but I cannot seem to find the drivers for the webcam. I have searched around on the internet a bit, and also on the driver/utility cd but no luck. When I look in the device list on the computer I do not even see a camera available. Any ideas? (I know there is one, because I can see it on the face of the laptop).

 

Finally got confirmation that the default CPU (2630QM) that comes with the G73SW actually does support AES-NI after all. That means everyone who bought one could potentially benefit from a BIOS update, not just ones like me who upgraded the CPU. Unfortunately that also means that people need to put pressure on Asus to get such a change implemented.

 

K, I found a nice convenient place to complain to Asus when reading through Skywise AES thread. If we ALL complain about BOTH problems, maybe we will see them update the bios and start taking us seriously about the throttling and adding AES.

http://vip.asus.com/eservice/techserv.aspx



You're welcome to copy and paste this if you don't feel like writing, should be simple, but yet effective enough/not individual sounding.

 

Submitted a request too, hopefully it'll get fixed soon enough.

 

The famous "display driver stopped responding and has recovered" error that nobody has found a fix to in years. Some people say, and could be right, that everybody is different, and it could be anything from ram, to voltage, etc.

The thing is, the only time it happens is after I leave my computer idle (not sleep or anything) overnight. I open up the lid and it happens within 5 minutes. Then I have to restart multiple times and it's fixed. I'm hoping the fact it only does it after overnight idle could help somebody pinpoint my problem.

THX TruStudio? Where is that, because I searched the whole computer for THX and found nothing.

The guy above claims otherwise I think. I would think the power supply and AC adapter are one in the same, since power supplies in desktops are far too big to fit in a laptop. Then again, everything is too big to fit in a laptop from a desktop.

What is AES-NI? I want to update my BIOS due to the problem above, but I heard that the keyboard light will break if I do. Also read many times that you should never update the BIOS just for the sake of updating, like you do with most other things.

 

You're either:

A) Overclocking the GPU too much
B) Suffering from overheating - check the temperatures of the GPU. If they're too high you might need to reapply thermal paste.
C) Having a driver conflict - do a clean install of a newer driver from Nvidia.

It's definitely not a power supply issue. If none of the above apply, I'd say talk to the vendor and get it exchanged/repaired since that would point to a hardware problem.

It's a set of functions aimed specifically at accelerating encryption/decryption software. A partial list of supported software can be found at wikipedia:

AES instruction set - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

How do you go about replacing the stock Atheros wlan short of buying an external adapter? If you can, where would you go to purchase a new one?

update: Never mind, I figured it out on my own. Thanks anyway. Although, some seller suggestions or products would be welcome
I am considering Intel Ultimate N 633ANHMW for a replacement to the atheros, any comments on that?

 

Sorry about this, but you *may* want to **modify** your choice there...if you look at any picture of the N-633xxxxx Mini PCI-Express form factor WiFi card, it's got 3 antennas, a big drag if you have our notebook, which only has two from OEM Asus. Now my previous notebook, the G51JX-A1 Core i7 740QM-equipped laptop *had* 3 antennas already, so I switched to an Intel N-6300 aka Ultimate N 633xxxxxx, your choice, and the install was a piece of cake!

I recommend the N-6200 because it still does up to 300Mb/ps download and simultaneous upload, on the two channels it supports, namely 2.5Ghz and 5.8Ghz channels, and again it's a bolt-in (screw-in in any case) mod that anyone can do. If you want to supplant the laptop with a 3rd antenna, you can do what I did to mine, which was virtually completely disassemble the laptop and bezel for the LED LCD 120Hz display system, as the antennas are supposed to go up and through the chassis, and into the display area, routing them around the display case bezel so that laptop will have adequate antenna "draw" as it's called (seek power is better I guess, sigh...).

It's a real drag for normal people to do this sort of work, but it *can* be done, I'm a testament for that statement I think, but then I have extensive laptop experience from working as an Apple Tech for a couple years, and I took apart and fixed many a Mac/Apple laptop back then! Yessir I did, so disassembly of my own laptop was difficult, because of the 3 tiers of construction the thing has, I mean they did that number so that they could pack in a TON of technology easily, but I'd have done it different. A novice should NOT be doing such a job, IMHO, without proper tools, a grounding strap, a static-free work area, the normal things any tech has/does when working with CPU's, RAM, and the ubiquitous laptops in this world.

Whew! I guess you weren't expecting such an answer, but that's life in the fast lane, my man! If you're gonna drive 150MPH you'd best be wearing a racing harness, have a roll bar, and adequate brakes (stopping power) or you'll probably kill yourself...right? Same with laptop work when you're doing the Big Installs like a 3rd antenna in our laptop, if you do it the right way that is. :yes:

An Ultimate N-6200, does everything the N633xxxxx model does, just *not* quite as fast...but then 300Mb/ps is 4X or more than what the laptop does with that crappy Atheros adapter, you dig? That's why I changed out my system basically, 4+X the speed and both directions too, a most wonderful asset for any laptop to have...but then again the N-6300 does 5X-8X better than the crappy Atheros does, so it's quite a different ball game when you talk about 3-antenna systems also! :confused2:

Your pick but I'd go with the N-6200 for your lappy, just for grins...you don't want to get in over yer head with a big take-apart like this if you've never done that sort of thing...if you *have* done this deed before with other lappy's, then go for it! Get a 3rd antenna and GetRDone.

Here's the ($21 shipped at Amazon) N-6200 that only needs 2 antennas, just what the doctor ordered:

Amazon.com: Intel 6200 IEEE 802.11n (draft) Wi-Fi Adapter - Mini PCI Express - 300Mbps: Electronics

That's my professional opinion, and there's nothing personal in those statements at all, just facts and more facts. Definitely REPLACE the Atheros 9285 75-Mb/ps adapter for sure, but do it the best way for your abilities is all I mean to say...just facts, not fiction! :rolleyes2:

I see that Skywise answered you already, with good answers, and I would only add this: you are definitely NOT having a PSU issue, it's just not going on with the "off and on" display driver problem. What display driver are you using, is my only question of the day? Do you have the newest installed, that would be nVidia driver #275.50 ? That driver is a good one, albeit a Beta driver such as it is, and will fix many problems just by installing it in your laptop.

I concur with Skywise about you probably overclocking the laptop unnecessarily, unless you are playing games and *then* it's happening, in which case you are probably still overclocking too much. You know it's a science this overclocking stuff, and you'd best know WTH you are doing if you are doing it to any great degree, and certainly there's no reason to leave the display overclocked by MSI Afterburner or EVGA Precision while it idles away overnight! Turn down the clocks if it's idle, end of story! :yes:

BTW our PSU is a robust sucker, very powerful! Unless yours is defective it should be putting out all the PSU power you will ever need (150+ DC watts!!), I know mine sure does!! It get HOT and HOTTER doing FAHome on GPU and CPU at the same time, as I have been known to do with my G73SW-3DE model lappy when I don't need it for a day or two, or three, no sir! I will let it do folding incessantly until I need it again, and I have *felt* my PSU adapter many times, and doing the above scenario it is almost too HOT to pick up! My bad, but that's the case... :rolleyes2:

So don't be on this "My PSU isn't powerful enough" for the laptop at maximum warp, because IT IS powerful, to the letter powerful! If it's defective or you have some other defective physical piece of the parts and puzzle that makes up this laptop that's another story, but chances are you don't have a PSU problem, and just need to down clock your present settings to OEM base settings, stock clocks in other words, while it's being used nominally and/or sitting over night idling, or worse asleep! Doing that deal is bad JuJu for notebooks of any sort, and I don't recommend that you practice such things if you are doing it at all, then having the driver fail for "some mysterious reason"! :wink:

As for you other questions? Hmmmm, I can tell you where THXStudio is, that is certainly a fact. Chances are you missed the obvious, and searched in the wrong places apparently, when it is right there in the START-UP Menu all along! Go to the Windows "ball" of light and hit the Programs feature that it does, and slide waaaay down the list of installed program to "Creative", and click on that little icon: right there is the THX gizmo, and Creative Alchemy besides if you want to do any audio editing or the like, so be my guest and open up THXStudio and adjust those speakers to your heart's delight. That is on me, hope you enjoy it! :GEEK:

You were pointed where AES goes and does, so don't need to go there. Question is, are you doing any heavy duty encryption or work in foreign language translation? That is the most obvious reason to use/have AES which is unfortunately defeated in our BIOS, because the CPU supports it, sure does! That's the story with that, it's nothing to really worry about unless Asus decided to fix Throttling and the AES deal both, and other things I am certain, with a new BIOS for the laptops at some point, better sooner than later. We'll see how long those Asian engineers take to GetRDone this time, and I mean THEY ARE SLOW people for things like that! :tongue:

That's about it for my take on yer questions of note, hope you find something useful in the answers... :smile:

Well so have I submitted MULTIPLE Tech Support queries about the Throttling issue, even before the present hub-bub about it that's going on right now, and I have little hope that Asus will address the BIOS issue, the need of new BIOS to cure those niggling problem the laptop has...but then again they might, you just never know with those silent Geeks at Asus! Don't expect anything, you know, just be Buddha or a time temple warrior, and simply meditate on Asus fixing those niggling issues the laptop has, don't get personally too involved because dealing with the factory can be a drag, complete drag for that matter.

Have a nice weekend you all! I remain your servant and once in a while Guru for these interesting questions you all pose! Good luck with being patient, is my best advice for the problems the laptop has...

rexrzer727

 

Since you are The Guru, I have some questions for you for ASUS N61Jq:

The ASUS N61Jq, has one HDD and a DVD. I have purchased a OCZ Solid SLD3-25SAT3-120G for it and just came accross ALLurGroceries comments in this thread:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/asu...g50vt-x5-raid-0-3-hard-drives-possible-2.html

I have few questions:

1. If I remove my 500GB HDD, can I use it in the DVD bay by removing the DVD and by using DVD caddy?

2. Would the computer boot or it would pyhsically look for a Optical DVD as mentioned by ALLurGroceries for ASUS G50Vt?

3. I believe the connector is SATA to HDD and then SATA to motherboard. Is this correct?

4. Is this the right caddy to buy?

SATA 2nd HDD caddy for 12.7mm Universal CD/DVD-ROM - eBay (item 320670100677 end time Aug-09-11 01:52:27 PDT)

Many thank in advance for teaching us the novices.

Have a nice weekend too!

Best regards!

KOR!

P.S. Darn, after I bought the OCZ Solid SLD3-25SAT3-120G from Newegg.com for $170 USD after rebate, they have now the OCZ Agility 3 AGT3-25SAT3-120G for the same price.

 

BTW, I have also purchased the Intel 510MLC SSD 120GB for my ASUS G73Sw-XN2, which has one HHD and has an extra caddy for another HHD. Both the Intel 510MLC SSD 120GB and OCZ Solid SLD3-25SAT3-120G are SATA III, and so is G73Sw. However, the ASUS N61Jq is SATA II.

I am planning to use the Intel 510MLC SSD 120GB in ASUS G73Sw and the OCZ Solid SLD3-25SAT3-120G in the ASUS N61Jq, since OCZ is very fast as SATA II drive. This to make up in the speed differences.

What does the GURU think?

Kindest regards,

KOR!

 

Thankyou rexzer27 for your answer, if I knew how to add rep power to you I would. You are correct in your assumption that I have never taken a laptop apart. My machine is the g73sw-xr1 from Frys electronics. I love it. It also happens to be my first notebook pc ever. So, I will not be dismantling it anytime soon. At least not until the warranty expires and I have a replacement anyway. I am however intimately familiar with desktop pcs.
I will make sure to stay with 2 antennas for now. Thanks again.
edit: I found the add rep button...

 

You're quite welcome, and thanks for the rep also, as I don't seem to get many here...so this is most welcome!

As to the King's Speeches, I have these comments:

I don't pretend to know all the particulars of *every* Asus laptop, and certainly don't know much about the N61J-series either, so Pasadena on most of the questions there King. Don't you have a proper forum/owner's lounge for that laptop to go to for heavy duty tech questions for that laptop? If so, ask that sort of questions *there* not here.

I did take the time to query that eBay reseller however, looked thoroughly at their ad at eBay, and I find it hard to justify buying there because of their location: Kowloon, Hong Kong! You'll never be able too deal with a failure or lemon part there because they are soooo faaarrrr away...The only Hong Kong items I personally ever buy are trinkets from Meritline, the big department store for electronics items, media such as DVD and BluRay discs, iPod and iPad and iPhone accessories, the works. They tend to be very reputable and you can return/exchange directly with their offices in Southern California, where I live, so that's an easy thing to work with. The direct-sale Hong Kong resellers are just difficult for me to do business with, I don't know about the rest of you but that's how it stacks up for me, personally. :yes:

As for the item, it should work, however. And the price is right, fortunately, so if you want to risk the $12 or so to buy such a thing, and wait 10-days to 2-weeks or LONGER for delivery of the item, more power to you...I would try to find a reseller here in America or Canada at the absolute farthese distance, as I am just not comfy with Asian resellers headquartered IN Asia somewhere!

On the SSD issue, which is really nothing difficult to figure out, I would go with the OCZ SSD in the SATA 3 HD system laptop, and place the Intel SSD in the SATA 2 laptop. I am privvy to OCZ SSD's a bunch, having purchased about 10 of them since they came to be in that bizness, and they have a very nice RMA program, if you ever need such a thing, and the drives, when they work 100%, are just *STELLAR PERFORMANCE SSD's* of the highest order. Especially the new Sandforce-equipped controller SSD's like my Vertex 3, which I highly recommend to everyone here in this forum...it's the best! :yes: :wink:

That's about it for today, and I leave the rest of it for others to take up slack on, for any questions this evening, because I have a date with my wife in the garden today, planting a couple blackberry plants and trellis, and I anticipate being very sore after that and will need a nice hot tub soak with Epson salts, methinks! Our yard is big, with a large garden spot, but the soil is very poor here, as the house literally sits on a huge slab of rocks, the whole development does, which is good for earthquakes and lousy for plants...aand digging in the rocks to plant blackberries and install trellises is my least favored sort of yard work.

rexrzer727

 

Buying from HK is not only not a problem, I'd recommend it for something like this IMO. You get fairly fast shipping for international mail, and low prices. It's not like quality is much of an issue with caddies, and even if it breaks or there is an issue, it's not like you're out of a lot of money. You can simply buy another from a different vendor and still come out on top.

That said, if that's not an option, NewmodeUS, Hard Drive Caddys for Notebooks is the only US shop I know of that sells them, but they do take a decent premium. They can also tell you the right model of caddy to use, though I'd think the 12.7 mm universal sata-sata one should be fine.

 

King's Speeches .......

Salami, Pastrami, Bologna ......

LOL ......

I did querry at the N61Jq Owner's Lounge, but I was pressing for time. Finally, Matt-Matt over there came to my rescue. This is what he suggested:

2nd HDD / SSD Caddy, ASUS N43, N53, N61, N71, N81, N82 [OBHD-SATA12-SATA-BU] - $44.75 : NewmodeUS, Hard Drive Caddys for Notebooks

The wife is leaving Arkansas to finally come back to Oman on July 21. I did order one over the weekend for about $50 USD with regular 2/3 Priortiy One shipping, but she has to abosulutely receive it by July 20. The time difference between Oman and CA is 11 hours, so I will call them later this evening (Oman time) to press on them to have it delivered to her by Wednesday July 20. And, if they can't then to have it shipped to Oman. The difference between shipping to Oman and AR is about $4 USD, but two weeks in time difference.

I have also ordered one from Hong Kong from eBay for about $15 USD.

The first SSD I bought was for my new toy G73Sw. Had to decide between Intel (solid) versus OCZ (speed). Went for the solidness, as being in Oman I shudder with the thoughts of RMA from Oman. Paid about $270 USD for the 120gb.

And, then Newegg.com had the OCZ for $170 USD for the 120gb. Couldn't give up, but hope that I don't have to RMA and don't know how OCZ will handle this.

Maybe, you are right about installing the OCZ in the G73Sw and the Intel in the N61Jq. The wife is arriving Oman on July 22 with all my toys.

Desperately awaiting!

KOR!

 

Dear Skywise,

I fully agree. For me being in Oman, it is closer to HK than good ole' USA. And, mostly they don't ship from USA to Oman, and if they do, then it costs a arm and a leg for shipping.

Thank you about the link to NewModeUS. Matt-Matt at the N61Jq Owner's Lounge suggest me too. See my above post to rexrzer727.

Kindest regards,

KOR!

 

Ok, I have scoured the internet as well as other forums to no avail. If I am asking this question in the wrong forum please let me know. Here goes.
I cannot locate the webcam driver on my G73SW-Xr1. There is no mention of it anywhere in the manual or the internet except that "Windows 7 should run it automatically". It can not run anything "automatically" if it does not even show up in the listed devices under the control panel. So, my question is this: Is there any way to force detection? OR does anyone happen to know the brand or model name and number of the camera that is installed into the lap top itself. That way I can begin my search anew for drivers and solutions. Any ideas, or solutions, would be most welcome. Thank you again in advance.

 

I think the cam's a Sonix product, or they made the driver anyway, called "Chicony," or at least that's the driver name. I found them when searching for replacement and updated drivers myself. I found 4 different updates, and each one worked. I can't guarantee they're what you want, but if you haven't found any and run a 64 bit machine, pm me your email and I'll send you all of 'em!

Good luck!!

 

Agreed the cooling is really amazing, but mine seems to be prone to overheating... Faulty hardware? Anyways, even though it has that cooling system, whenever I play Portal 2, BF: Bad Company 2 or Far Cry 2 (sequels FTW ) full spec for a few hours, (Portal for max 1½) my screen starts flashing grey in an odd half moon formation, then it just goes to pitchblack and I can't see anything. It's still on, it still runs but I can't see . It even crapped out while playing Unreal Tournament 3 and Spore.

 

about a week ago i noticed that my display has a brown tinge to it
i open the NVidia control panel & toggle back & forth between app & nvidia control and it returns to normal
but everytime it comes out of sleep or reboot i have to redo this
it seems to be something that is loading in the background, because during a reboot i can see when it changes
any ideas how to permanently fix this?

mark

 

I'm not overclocking, and my temps are fine. Also I've tried several drivers, and currently have the June or July driver from Nvidia. This is a big issue that has been going on for 3 years for people, on different video cards and computers. It seems that a Windows Update is at fault, or at least is a trigger. Google "driver has stopped responding" and you'll get tons and tons of hits and threads, with 20+ solutions, none of which work for the rest of us, and I bet at least half of those people later find out it didn't fix it.

I guess I'm just stuck with this issue, as are other people. I mean really, going through literally 50+ threads, no answer? Ya, clearly a real problem Microsoft needs to fix. There are tons of causes tot his problem, but I doubt that all of us just so happen to have these unique individual problems, and there is no problem except the one each of us coincidentally has, such as overheating or the wrong driver etc. BTW I'm not saying it is the power supply, because I never thought it was, just trying, but check this out:

Common issues that can cause a TDR:
- Bad memory
- Insufficient/problematic PSU
- Corrupt driver install
- Overheating
- Unstable overclocks (GPU or CPU)
- Incorrect MB voltages (generally NB/SB)
- Faulty graphics card
- Your asking too much of your graphics card. Not one that many people like to hear, but as the blurb from Microsoft states, if your game falls below a certain FPS and something graphically complex occurs, it could trigger a TDR.
- The issue can potentially be caused by a badly written driver or piece of software, but this is an unlikely cause in most cases.

 

Press the ROG Logo button on the top left of the laptop, it switches between display modes and thats probably your problem

 

thanks - that was it

mark

 

Looks like faulty hardware. What temperatures are you getting?

I had to get it replaced too, it was frustrating to hear everybody talk about how great the cooling was when I was getting 100° after 30 minutes of game ^^

Now after an hour of Crysis 2 overclocked at 820 the max temp I'm getting is 73°, which seems amazing.

 

FurMark gives me an average GPU temp. of 84° after 15 minutes (no overclock). Not sure if it's fine or not, as most games run under 80° on my system.

 

Wow thats good! Is it extremely cold in your house or something?

I get ~74 Max non OC'd. and ~79C Max OC'd to 815 Core

Yeah that is definitely not normal for this system. Unless it is very hot in your house lol, i would get it replaced. They should be in the low 70's.

 

Hello everyone, has anyone had a problem with the CPU running at 2.4 Ghz all the time?
I started noticing this the other day because the cpu fan sounds different than the gpu fan. Going by the sidebar cpu meter, it stays at 2.4Ghz.

I don't have anything out of the ordinary running and I am basically a noob so I have no way to tell what is causing it to do this. I have good anti-virus software and it says nothing is infected. So as it is, my cpu sits at 43° C. Also I only have about 84 processes running, which is what I have always had running since I got it.

It is now about a month or so old and no other problems. I just don't want this to lead to something else. lol

EDIT: CPU 3% PHYSICAL MEMORY 34% That's what's confusing me, I'm not using alot of cpu, but I don't know how to tell what is making it run at such high Ghz when it never did before. All updates are up to date etc. Sorry for the wall of text and thank you for your time.

 

43C is a fine tempuature for the CPU

But that is odd, what are you using to measure the speed?

Install and fire up Argus Monitor, go to "CPU Turbo" tab on the top, and look at the bars. You should see them all fluctuating alot, and usually different from eachother.

If your CPU isnt at full load thats the only real way to tell the speed, each core is clocked and changing clocks rapidly and arent usually the same. When it is maxed out, then Turbo kicks in and some number of them will be the same level at max.

If your usage is 3% then it shouldnt be at the maxed speed, check with that program If they are all the same and have the bar fully raised, then there is something wrong.

 

The answers below are for QUMOKO not baller, as he's got nothing to be helped with AFAIK!

Has the young NB used Device Manager to check on all of it, applications, processes, and running programs? Right Click on the Computer, choose Manage, and go to the various tabs in Device Manager after you choose it.

You've probably got something wonky running that you don't know about. Even then it's not unusual for the CPU to run at 2.4Ghz even if it does NOT have anything strange going on with the above checks. With Turbo engaged doing FAHome on my notebook it peaks at 2.5Ghz, all Cores, and stays there pegged 100% throttle with Throttlestop being used to prevent any CPU throttling. My temps can be as high as 80-degrees with CPU and GPU folding ongoing, but are usually in the 70's-Celsius, the GPU usually around 70-72-degrees C.

However if you are running 2.4Ghz in one or two Cores that's fine, that's nothing unusual. I repeat also, what are you monitoring the CPU speed with? If you're using CPU-Z that's good for true speeds; GPU-Z is good for true GPU speeds, using the Sensors Tab of course it goes without saying. If all Cores are running 2.4Ghz you should check your Energy Saver settings if using Power4Gear as your mechanism for setting Energy Saver settings. If that utility's settings are different from Windows Energy Saver settings, you will also have a problem there...they will "fight" for control of the notebook and things can get screwed up there also: solve=going to each Control Panel and match up their choices for all items, and Advanced Tab in the Windows CP should be used to stipulate all settings again.

Once you have all settings matched then tell me if you still have a problem, also? OK? Last but not least you can Recover the OS to the last time you had a good System setting and updates were not applied. Check Windows Help for how to do that, as I am running out of time to post this about now...but basically you will Restore the notebook's OS to a time in the past that Windows made a Restore Point and things were stable...you'll have a list of dates and changes to choose from if you use that utility correctly.

rexrzer727

 

This is interesting... Newegg.com had the G74 laptop for sale, now it shows as discontinued... Newegg.com - ASUS G74 Series G74SX-A1 Notebook Intel Core i7 2630QM(2.00GHz) 17.3" 12GB Memory DDR3 1333 1.5TB HDD 7200rpm BD Combo NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560M

but they still have plenty of G73's.... did ASUS stop making the G74? was there some serious manufacturing problem?

I have the G73SW and not planning to change it. I was just curious. if anyone knows please let me know as well.

Thanks.

 

I think newegg does that when they don't have a date/eta when they will be getting more in stock, so they mark it as "discontinued". Once they have a ETA they will probably put it back up.

 

Hi, could someone help me?
My laptop keeps crashing? Blue screen comes on and says error occured then reboots. It started (I think I'm not sure) when I reformatted my laptop with fresh install of windows 7 w/ drives+utilities from this forum. It does this once in a while but really annoying when it does this.. And I don't want it to get damaged... What do I do to fix this?
Thanks, I'll check back soon.

 

Well I guess after sending it back they didn't want to screw up the cooling

I'm in Paris, where it's been relatively hot, and never got more than 73°. Very happy with this machine! The GTX 460 at 820 mhz works perfectly fine, I might try to push it a little further although I'm not sure if I'll really see a difference.

 

It seems like my system temps are about 10 degrees higher than what everyone else tends to report. The GPU generally ends up between 79 and 84 celcius while gaming (stock clocks) and has reached 86 after 15 minutes of Furmark. This obviously concerns me when I see so many others having a max of 74C. I'm hoping this is just due to the high ambient temperature of summer (80F/27C or higher because my parents refuse to use the air conditioning) . . .

 

To be fair, I hit about 73-76c while gaming, and about 81-82c in Furmark since it is hot here(around 84-88f in my room). So your temps aren't absolutely bad, you are probably just in a warm room like me, especially if your parents don't turn on the air conditioning.

 

Please Help! I bought the Asus G73SW-XT1 and I just installed a OCZ Vertex 3 120GB SSD as primary and the one that came with it as secondary drive. I just need some help. I have ran HD TUNE on each drive and tell me if I can gain any transfer speeds and where I can find some help on doing so.

I also included another set of stats using ATTO DISK BENCHMARK. I'm not the brightest person but why the major difference in the tests.

If anyone can direct me in the right direction on how I may be able to tune or tweak for best performance possible. I would greatly appreciate any help I can get.

 

This may not have any relevance to your issue but I had to return my G73 due to a problem with the OCZ 3 that couldn't be fixed with the firmware update.

OCZ Technology

 

Everything is NORMAL with your HD's and the Vertex 3! There is nothing to be concerned about, just enjoy the high speed Vertex 3 is all that I can recommend. I don't know what it is you are concerned about?

Can you please tell us what it is exactly that is bothering you? The SSD is going to be up to 5X faster than the Seagate, that is normal; the WD My Book is slow, slow, slow, that is normal also; the Vertex 3 is hitting on all 8 cylinders too, showing its stuff in SATA 6 mode with your notebook achieving up to 500MB/sec writes and up to 550MB/sec reads...it's all fine, trust me it is!

Please re-post what you *think* is the problem with all that, because to my old, tired eyes everything is totally NORMAL.

rexrzer727

 

Hi all, just got a G73SW-A1 and really like it so far. I have some observations and some questions. The screen is great and the sound is the best I've heard on a laptop so far. I've done some reading on the forum and I've read that the ASUS Live Update utility is to be avoided. Is that still the case? I was going to go through and update the drivers. Is getting the video drivers direct from Nvidia the preferred method vs getting them from the ASUS web site? Should I just grab the Verde 275.33 drivers listed on Nvidia's site? Are those the most current? I don't see an option for it in the BIOS, is there a way to put the two HDs into RAID 0? f not, I'll probably just end up replacing one of the HDs with a SSD for the OS and apps. Where are the other two memory slots, under the keyboard or something? Has anyone upgraded the RAM to 16GB and noticed any real difference. I have a feeling 8GB will be more than sufficient.

 

Anyone here tried using the new Nvidia drivers (280.19 - BETA) into their laptops? Just want to ask if there is no issues occurred when installing it, and if there are significant improvements in the performance.