Problems? See this thread at archive.org.
I've noted dynamic switching bug also with Power4 Gear utility. Happened never before updating to SP2.
But, as I earlier mentioned, fan issue has never appeared when running on battery.
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I'll say it again... Check out my post http://www.notebookreview.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9894 about CrystalCPUID (page 1 near the bottom).
CrystalCPUID is a much better tool for tunning the CPU frequeny + voltage (lover voltages + lover frequeny = lover temp). [
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It seems to be quite impossible to find bullet proof way to reproduce this fan issue. Usually I have it when I have several programs running (Word, Winamp, Outlook and web browser are usually running). Sometimes fan stucks without any load on computer. And sometimes it works well with heavy tasks running.
As long as we can't find the way to reproduce fan problem, ASUS says that they don't find anything wrong on their tests (as they told to someone (to escape perharps?))
I'm going solve this thing with quite suspicious solution. I'm going to open my A2D and take a look at that fan and it's wiring. Maybe I put potentiometer on that voltage wire so I can control fan voltage. I took a glimpse and tried to open my notebook few weeks ago, but I couldn't get it fully uncovered and I had no time to figure out how to remove all the covers. There was some sticker which said something about warranty...
Yes, I know that I can kiss goodbye my warranty, but hey, if it breaks I have a good excuse to buy that iBook... []
And never any ASUS products for me, thank you. -
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Hi all,
<blockquote id='quote'> quote:<hr height='1' noshade id='quote'>Originally posted by bugmenot
ftp.asuscom.de/pub/NOTEBOOK/A2x00D-DC/Bios/
<hr height='1' noshade id='quote'></font id='quote'></blockquote id='quote'>
Thanks for the info. I was frequently checking ftp.asus.com.tw for updates, however updates did come from the german site
Just check the site and downloaded bioses. BTW, German Asus ftp site includes some new drivers for vga (V8.01RC3-040421a-014736E.zip), smartio, and modem.
I'm thinking of updating the BIOS. So far, primary problem was the FAN issue... I hope they have resolved it.
Currently using v0208a which came installed with the notebook.Last edited by a moderator: May 8, 2015 -
Hi again,
I have updated A2D bios from 208 to 210 successifully using winflash 2.11. After a reboot, I have reconfigured my bios settings (no new options picked my eye).
On Xp, I have opened the device manager if anything new listed. Guess what "AMD Special tools Driver" is listed under system devices. Which I couldn't recall from previous setting. Now, There is a total of 27 items listed under system devices. Please check with your setting.
So far I'm testing fan issue by running powergear in game mode (which I did not ever uninstalled), so far everthing works fine (fan stopping at 50 C and reactivating 55 C degrees), and also resource confilict report under "Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Embedded Controller" still exists (maybe it is not the main issue), though.
When I'm done with powergear, I'll switch back to crystalcpu which runs even cooler with voltage adjustment 800Mhz at 0.925 volts.
Did Asus resolved the fan issue at last? We'll wait and see... []
Cheers. -
Hello,
My notebook seems to work fine at the beginning with a210 BIOS. Fan starts at 55C, off at 50C. On Previous BIOS - a0208 (I bought a2d with it) it was the same, however now it stucks on almost every time with Windows Power Management, Power Gear and even with Crystal CPU. Meaning my notebook temperature go on 33 deg. but with the fan still on.
Yesterday I installed RightMark CPU (min 3x max 14x) clock utility and as for now this fann problem is gone with bios a210.....
Unfortunately it was the same at the beggining with a208 and Crystal CPU -
Hi.
This helpe on my pc!! Bat time emproved and the fan stops running once in a wile. Bios version i 0208.
I hope that it is okay to copy the texst!!
Hi all
A bloke nicknamed Irion (from Germany I think) has posted this on the VIP Asus forum and I thought it could do a lot of good on this one, so I hope he doesn't mind but here it is
(A Small modification: this all works for sonoma as well as I found out now. I have updated the tutorial.)
Hi Folks!
I want to share something great with you
all of the following tricks are from the german unofficial ASUS M6N-board http://www.encke.net/encke/modules.php?op=modload&name=phpBB_14&file=index. I will give you a step-by-step instuction. This all works perfectly on my ASUS M6710NEUP, but basically should work on any centrino-based computer (banias and dothan, and as I found out now for Sonoma as well!). For example it works well on a Acer Aspire 2020.
First, what it is all about: We will use the tool "RM Clock" to reduce the core voltage of the CPU. This dramatically reduces power consuption, therefore the battery lasts longer and the cpu temperature is much lower. There is absolutely no risk of damaging the cpu, if you follow my instructions. As well, the CPU performance is not modifyed, you still have the same power for games. On my machine, i can play Half-Life 2 or World of Warcraft with the CPU staying so cool, that the fan keeps off half of the time (BIOS 0205).
Here is what these tools can achieve:
Without these tricks, my computer uses around 33 Watts in prime torture test (see below) at 1.5GHz, and the temperature rises over 70°C.
With RM Clock, it only needs 22 Watts, the temperature doesn't go over 56°C but it still has the same performance!
The Watt numbers were measured via Mobile Meter 0.3.0.0 in Battery mode.
I can not guarantee that this will work, and i don't take any responsabilities, i can say this perfectly works for me, and for all my friends on whose computers i tried it. I am also not sure if you lose your warranty or something. basically this should not happen, because we only decrease the cpu voltage, and it is only done if the program is active in windows. if you reboot or just deactivate the program discribed below, all changes are gone, there is nothing saved in the hardware.
What we need:
The tool "RM Clock" from http://cpu.rightmark.org/download/rmclock_15_bin.exe
The tool "CPUMSR" from http://www.cpuheat.wz.cz/BetaVersions/CPUMSR_0_88.zip
The tool "prime" from http://mersenne.org/gimps/p95v238.exe for stress testing
Centrino Hardware Control from http://www.pbus-167.com/chc.htm
1 - Uninstall the Power4Gear Software, it sux ;-)
2 - Download the above tools and extract/install them. it is not important, where prime and CPUMSR are extracted, RM Clock should be extracted to some folder, where it can stay, like Crogram FilesRM Clock3 - Now, start CPUMSR. Click "Configuration", and uncheck the "enable user protection" box. now, click the "Pentium M" button in the list on the left side (be sure not to click any of the other buttons!!)
4 - Choose "Frequency & Voltage Control"
5 - Here you can see the current multiplier and core voltage, write them down somewhere, or keep them in mind.
6 - Run prime (should be in the start menu under "Prime 95") and click "Just Stress Testing"
7 - In prime, choose Options -> Torture Test... and choose the first box (Small FFTs).
8 - click "OK" to start the "torturing" of the CPU, you will note text lines beginning with "Test 1, 1000 Lucas-Lemer iterations...", they keep appearing (=torturing) until you choose "Test -> stop"
9 - switch back to CPUMSR and move the windows so that you can see the text lines appearing while you change the settings in CPUMSR.
10 - in the "Change Multiplier to"-field you choose The maximum available multiplier for your system. In order do find it out, open the CHC-Helpflile from the START-menu, it has some great tables, including each CPU's multipliers and the correspondent default Core Voltages. it has no effect if you choose a multiplier above your maximum, you can't overclock your CPU.
11 - in the "at a Voltage of:"-field you choose the correspondant Voltage from the CHC-Helpfile-table, but 1.308V should work for everybody.
12 - click "Set"
13 - now, if your computer hasn't crashed, which should not yet happen ;-), you slowly decrease the voltage, but keep your maximum multiplier, and click "Set" each time.
14 - while you do this, keep watching the lines in prime, as long as they appear regularly, everything is ok
15 - At a certain voltage, one of these things will happen: either prime reports some kind of error, or your computer crashes. This is NOT dangerous, just restart (press the power button 5 secs, wait 5 secs and press it again to turn the computer on). It is important, that you keep in mind the last voltage that reported no error! it varies from system to system, on my system it is 0.924V but this will definately vary on each system!
16 - write down this voltage that was the lowest one to work and the correspondend multiplier on some piece of paper!
17 - now, you repeat the same (start prime and CPUMSR, if it is not yet running) and set the multiplier to 6x, which is the lowest possible setting, with the lowest possible Voltage, 0.700V and check out if prime reports an error (really should not happen).
From now on, we don't need CPUMSR any more. you can uninstall/remove them if you want, we only needed it to get the limit-voltages. You can now decide, if you want to use CHC or RM Clock. Personnaly, I prefer RM Clock, so I am explainig it in detail. CHC works very similar, you will find out! CHC offers the possiblity to set the temperatures at which the fan starts and stops, this might be interesting to V6V-Users. I strongly recommend M6Ne-Users not to activate fan control in CHC, it makes the fan never stop again ;-).
1 - Now, start RM Clock by double-clicking the .exe-file.
2 - Click the "Management"-Tab and activate the "Use P-State Transitions (PST)" checkbox
3 - At "Minimal FID" you choose 6x
4 - At "Minimal VID" you choose 0.700 V
5 - At "Maximal FID" you choose your maximum multiplier, 15x in my case
6 - At "Maximal VID" you choose the voltage you wrote down, that was the lowest one to work, it is recommendet to choose 2 or 3 levels above, as a safety backup for voltage fluctuations.
7 - At "AC Profile", choose "Automatic Management"
8 - At "Battery Profile", choose what you want, "Minimal" for 600MHz and super-low power consumption ;-), or "Automatic Management" for high performance, but still lower power consumption than 600MHz without RM Clock.
9 - Click "Apply" and close the RM-Clock window.
10 - Now start prime again and do the "Small FFTs"-Torture Test again to check if everything works alright.
You will note the small icon in the system-tray-bar, where you see a circle, that turns red if the cpu is at a high frequency and stays gray, if the frequency is low. The frequency adapts automatically to the cpu usage, as long as you have "Automatic Management" activated under "PST Performance Profile" in the right-click-menu of the system-tray-icon!
11 - if everything works alright without a crash or an error, right-click on the icon in the tray-bar
12 - and activate the "Start Minimized to Tray" and "Run Automatically at Startup" options.
congratulations, you're done
if you have problems, feel free to post them here
Greetings, Luiz.
Thanks Luiz [ ]
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Just my 2 cents:
On my M6Ne with latest Bios 0208Ae (I hope I'm not off topic) the fan starts at 55°C and stops at 49°C - Well, more exactly it switches from 3000rpm (very quiet) to 3600rpm (somewhat noisy), and back.
However sometimes the fan "starts" between 49° and 55°C, and in this case it never returns to its quiet state, even when the temp drops below 49°C. I have to restart the notebook to stop the fan.
I found a workaround, though: I observed that if I stress the CPU to make the temp rise above 55°C, then stop and let the temp drop below 50°C, then the fan "stops". It's seems that the fan control code gets confused because the fan speed and the temp range don't match, and by making the temp rise to the "normal", the fan code gets sort of resynced.
I even wrote a 3 line Python script to do the job (stress the CPU for 30sec then stops. Dumb, but works Could be smarter if I knew how to read the temp) and added an icon on my desktop to keep ready !
Maybe something similar might work on other Asus notebooks...
BTW, I tried to remove the ACPI driver (escape707's suggestion). Got worse so I restored it (with some pain).
HTH
Richard
In case you don't already know the tool, have a look at Centrino Hardware Control, it's free, far better than Asus Probe, does monitoring (temp, voltage, clock, battery..), voltage tweaking, fan control, etc... -
Hello,
Ok, I have bought my a2d (amd2800 ati 9600) second hand as a reall bargain and had that **** fan issues (overheat/jam/low cpu temp, hot case temp) Though I dislike AMD (Nothing about the performance, I simply dont like the name of it, intel inside sounds cool) I love the performance of this babe (especially the 9600) and didnt want to change it.
I am from a country where all guarantees are solely on papers and does not apply in real life, service personel is always chosen from the ones paid the lowest fee and as a result having the tiniest brains blah blah blah... not excluding asus.
So I went out for a solution by myself. Read all threads in this site and many other sites including asus technicians posts without finding a solution.
Now what I have acieved so far...
1. I have totally dismantled the notebook to the tiniest bit, hacked ino the fan. I dismantled it too , it was a ac center rotor surrounding stator engine so It was easy to set it apart.
2. I cleaned it with various gentle chemicals (no alcohol glass cleaners first, then mild soap (ph7), rinsed few times with water then used several times degreaser contact cleaner (not the oily one) . I looked up for a good degreaser but as the prices were sky high, so went on with a cheap chinese one which worked like a miracle (Before I bought this one I was using Philips now I will never buy Philips they sell canned water instead of greaser when compared to this chinese crap)
3. Finally I rinsed every bit of the fan with pure water then
washed with pure water and immediately dried it with a hairdryer. I applied this procedure from step 1 to 3 to all of the fan casing.
4. I used some silicone grease on the stator and assembled the fan. (This grease is mostly used for harsh conditions theoretically it never dries or bonds , I knew it from my scuba gear we depend our lifes on that lubricant but thats another story)
5. now the coppersinks : There are two copper heatsinks. One with L heatpipe for cpu and one under the top cover for the graphics card attached to the cover of it) When I opened them they were nearly clogged with dust. I took them directly to the bath washed then applied the same procedure in 1-3.
7. The original thermal paste crap (was gray color on mine) was dried out on both sinks and was hard as a mules tooth. I worked about half an hour to clean it out without scratching the contact point. For the first 25 minutes I used every chemical I had (mild acis, detergents alcohol, acetone etc etc) but could not remove it totally. Then I used that infamous chinese degreaser on that one and worked out like a miracle again. When finished both heatsinks looked like brand new and fresh out of the factory.
8. This time I didnt went on cheap and bought the white thermaltake heat paste crap in a case which looks and probably was produced hipodemic injector needle (Those eastern people have a great imagiation for using one thing for another purpose) I applied it by a plastic card to make a smooth surface. voila ! it's finished.
9. I reassambled the notebook. (How did I do that ?? of course with reverse of the method I used to disassemble it )
Now the results :
1. Fan is much much silent than the original, both in decibel and the turning on intervals are much less. Working wih it for a month without a problem.
2. cooling problem is solved much cooler it is ! Noise problem is partially solved, it is much more silent and turns on much less (dont have a tool to mesaure decibel but roughly half the noise) but still not as good as I would liked.
3. About jamming problem : I tried half diassambled run tests to find out if the heat receptor(thermocoupler) has the problem , or it is a general heating problem, or a software one. Voila ! the cpu heat and heatsink is approximately as the monitor programs say, and as the posts in this forum. But.. the pretty ati 9600 gets extremely hot. With using speedstep and running on 400 mhz I have found out that %95 the stacking of the fan is not a real stuck but caused by the over heating of the graphics card main processor.
4 . why the graphics card gets hot? 2 reasons,
a) the heat pipe which carries the heat to the heatsink is wrongly designed in the factory. It is round at the edges, half of it sits on the graphic card's main processor following with a gap (about 2 mm) which sits right on the graphics processor. The thermal paste helps a bit but still it is a bad thermal contact in this way.
b) the graphics card heatsink is too small for cooling . I didnt calculate or mesaure anything but it gets hell of a heat when even notebook is running idle.
5. What can be done from now on : The heatsink of the graphics card must be enlarged for a total solution. 3 step idea for this :
a) A direct heat pipe between cpu and graphics card heatsinks which can be dissasambled easily must be constructed so that excess heat will pass onto cool and much larger cpu heatsink which eventually equalise both of their heats, eventually lessen the fan turn on times and probably put an end to the fake fan stuck problem.
b) Luckily there is a great hollow in this notebook hust behind the cpu heatsinks head which sits on cpu. Probably it was for the pentium version of the notebook as the cases are the same. You can not miss it. directly under the laptop wih a square grid. It is a 2,5 cm heigt clynderic hollow with a radius more than the diagonal of the square metal grid. With a radial copper heatsink which can fit there and a heatpipe the heat consumption for the present heatsinks can drastically be increased. Even a 5v low rpm low noise cental fan (like the ones used on graphics cards) can be attached there which will take power directly from an usb port internally. With such a modification the main fan most probably will be fully functional and will also never need to work again except emergency issues (overclok etc)
c) for the main fan I did the best treatment and still it is a bit noisy. For a solution it can be changed with a same diameter same voltage low noise same rpm (sky high pricy) fan. For improving the aerodynamics of the casing som modifications can be made (inside of te fan casing is quite rough and this pretty much can cause the fan noise)
Finally, Jamming problem is still there but much much less it happens. and now I know why it happens and have an idea which I will apply and inform you if I succeed
Warnings !
1. This worked for me, might not wor for you .. no guarantees !
2. Bewarned thee !! If u dont know how to open a notebook dont do this at home ! Besides cooking your notebook, you can seriously hurt yourself with the chemicals or tools.
note : sorry for the sloppy english, It is not a native language for me, I learned from holywood movies
Thats it, have a nice and a silent day !
Bluemax -
Wow, you certainly went through a lot of trouble just to make your notebook cooler and quieter!
I'm glad it worked for you though...
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Thanks AuroraS, hope it will be helpful for others out there too
I had read about for a week every thread for this issue and couldnt stop myself posting this soluton though it's a bit long
A2D cooling fan non-stop running
Discussion in 'Asus' started by Hyde, Sep 29, 2004.
