Ah, crap

I went to reapply MX-3 onto my GPU and CPU. I followed standard procedure (Battery removed, AC unplugged, moved very slowly and deliberately).

I cleansed, applied TIM, and reassembled. I put the battery back in and plugged AC in the AC unit. I hit the power button.

There lights go on for a half second, the DVD drive makes it's usual startup noise... and then nothing. No POST. It turns off.

I try again. Repeat.


Any ideas?

 

Did you remove the CPU or GPU from their sockets?

 

Did you make sure you discharged all the static?

All the heatsinks and fans replaced properly?

Processor seated correctly?

 

GPU was not removed.

CPU was. I'll reseat right now.

 

good luck! let us know what happens

 

Also make sure the CPU is locked, BIOS shuts computer down after few seconds is usually it didn't detect the CPU.

 

Forge, make sure you tighten the CPU lock fully. The proper bit size is a 4mm slothead.

 

OH THANK YOU SWEET JESUS.

I thought I had broken something. Typing this message on a repasted computer.

Thanks for humoring my panic attack.

And these idle temperatures are better than ever.


EDIT 3DMark trial was a bit different this time around. Again I only maxed out at 88C, but I noticed, unlike the trial last night, I slowly rose to the max, and it didn't go down when the fans kicked in.

 

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haha, close call...I opened up mine today just to get a good idea of how everything was located, formed, etc...I was too scared to touch anything...

I worked for a LAN gaming center for 3 years, so I am comfortable with taking apart, reconnecting, cleaning and maintaining dozens of gaming PC's at a time, but god damn do laptops make me nervous...

I would love to apply some high quality thermal paste, but right now, for me, the risk isn't worth dropping my max temps by just 3-4 degrees.

 

Since you opened it op, prod your warranty sticker a little. If you can expose your heatsink screw without any pressure you're good to mod without fear of breaking warranty.

 

hahaha, I was looking at that sticker and it looked relatively pathetic...how does the sticker itself actually get activated, to where it would be apparent it was tampered with anyway? It looks like just a solid yellow sticker.

I'm not too worried about voiding the warranty all-out, but I'd like to wait about 6 months to a year before upgrading the processor and taking the slight risk, just to make sure I don't have a dud model, and that is enough time usually to tell.

But even then, working at Best Buy has perks, which I am not really free to spread around, but I am pretty confident I could get the system to work in my favor if anything happened.


But yeah, I didn't want to touch the sticker, but I was curious on whether it was a solid yellow sticker that could easily be modified to fit right back on, whether it was color or layer activated, where if it was pulled off it would reveal "VOID" lettering or something...

 

No clue on the those features.

But when I got mine, I noticed it was only half stuck on. In other words, half was on the heatsink, and the half that was supposed to cover the screw... didn't. I just had to prod it out of the way to get my screwdriver in. By the time I was finished tinkering, it looks like I hadn't touched a thing.

(Of course, last night I somehow slipped while removing the heatpipe and ripped the sticker in half.)

And you definitely have more computer experience with me. I have never gone anywhere near a CPU or GPU prior to my mods.

 

That sounds like what happened with my first Motorola. My phone drowned in seawater when I fell over the pier when I was crabbing across the bay. I took the damn thing apart and dried it all up. But the white sticker that is supposed to tell whether liquid got into the phone was now deep red. To fool Cingular, now AT&T, I ripped the sticker off and replaced it with a good water sticker from one of my old man's old phones. I took my phone to Cingular the next day and the retard at the desk took a glance at the inside of my phone, saw the white dot, and told me to pick out a new phone.

 

Haha, yeah. I remember my PS2 was one of the original ones with the "Disc Read Error" issue, and a common solution was to open up the case and clean the laser(because Sony wasn't recognizing the issue as a manufacture defect until JUST after I bought a new PS2), but unfortunately mine had just gone completely bad. To open up the case, though, required pulling off the warranty sticker. The sticker itself was solid in color, but as soon as I pulled it off, it revealed "VOID" lettering. Essentially, the parts of the lettering stayed stuck on the PS2 case, while the rest of the black tape pulled off, so the entire chemistry of the sticker essentially changed, and it would have been very difficult, almost impossible, to replace without obvious signs of tampering.

The sticker in the G51 doesn't seem like it has any special features, though. I wonder, does anyone want to guinea pig their G51 and see what happens when you tamper with the warranty stickers?

 

If you mean the warranty sticker on the bottom panel, then its easy lol. Take a fresh razer and slide it from the corner and peel it off with your fingers nice and easy, it comes right off. I had to do so to swap panels with my old G50.

 

If it looks like a regular paper sticker, than I don't think it will have any tamper proofing on it. My two older notebooks had void warranty stickers on some of the chassis screws. But in my warranty with my seller, they mentioned nothing about voiding the warranty if the sticker was removed. Do you see the loophole here? Here is my warranty, http://www.rjtech.com/warranty.htm. It is still pretty much the same warranty when I got my first notebook back in 2003, my second notebook in 2005, and my current notebook in 2009.

 

what's your ambient temperature when you ran the test?

 

I don't have a thermometer in my room, but somewhere around 65-70 F

 

I just got a good kick reading about your panic attack with not having your comp turn on

I think mine did that a while ago after fiddling with the CPU or something, but like yours it seems to have fixed itself.

On another note, I bought mass effect on tuesday at like 12pm, and beat it by 9pm on wednesday! lol it was an awesome game to play on the G51, graphics were intense!

In addition, my younger brother received his G50VT-X5 on tuesday! I bought it for him because he is going to college. He really liked the G51, but didnt really care about computer gaming that much and wanted to save a few dollars. I was surprised with how well it performs with the 9800M GS! He also bought mass effect, and it is running it rather well! He laughed and said you have a backlit keyboard, i have a....back lit touchpad??? lol

 

ASUS sent me a spare "warranty void..." sticker with my laptop. This made my upgrades much safer.


--

 

Actually.....I've had a really big panic attack when I was first overclocking via SetFSB.......

Like an idiot, the first thing I did was overclock it from 2.0Ghz to 2.5Ghz and it instantly BSODed.

I was like okay, I just overclocked too much so I'll just restart. The problem was that it kept on going into BSODs at restart and would hang trying to get into Safe Mode. I had to go through about 2 dozen BSODs before the computer finally booted up.

I suspect that the computer wasn't resetting the FSB overclock properly so the CPU would just keep on giving out everytime windows was being loaded.

 

Precision is key in the notebook world. Go to Walgreens and pick up a wall thermometer.

 

When you BSOD, the computer dumps whatever is on RAM into your hard disk, and puts it back once you boot back up. Since it was saving (and loading) the 2.5 overclock... hooray.

Bah.

 

Or you can ask this one guy in the Clevo forum, I need to find him again, that can precisely tell the temperature of his GPU with his finger.

 

Slices, dices, make julienne fries?

EDIT: Just remembered there's a thermostat thermometer in the hallway.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSulFZ7XJ1U&fmt=18#t=0m11s

 

Just confused the crap out of me.

 

AI YI YI, no it doesn't! If it did, and the cause of your BSOD was, say, a kernel level heap corruption you'd be stuck in an infinite loop of BSODing. The OCing software most probably made the setting persist, but kernel dumps (which, btw, by default are MINI dumps on a BSOD, which has a fraction of your ram contents) are used for post-mortem debugging, feeding them back to memory is a BAD idea.

 

Same thing happened to me, but it was because my undervolt at the time was too low.

I had CrystalCPUID set to undervolt 15 seconds after logon, and SETFSB was automatically OCing to 2.5GHz.

I had to very, very quickly stop Crystal from popping me up and sending me in to a blue screen. Took three tries.

 

Next time, just use safe mode and remove the task in task scheduler..

 

My mindset was pretty out of whack. THe BSODs were happening on the new replacement G51 I had just got from BEst Buy no more than a few hours beforehand.

I was more or less thinking "Oh ****, not another one," not "It's okay Greg, just go in to Safe Mode and remove it from the Task Scheduler."

 

Gah, your name is Greg too.

 

How many damn Greg's are on this forum?

 

How many others are there?

 

Well, with me and you, that makes two.

 

I say we group together and take this place over.

With my deceptively charming good looks and your hardware, we can take this place by storm.

 

Nah. We'll just get laughed at.

Look at the thread you're posting in.

 

In Soviet Russia, place storms YOU!

 

In Soviet Russia, food eats YOU.