So it's just winsat.exe?I thought it was another strange aero dll or something.
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-Matt -
As a basic benchmark WEI is quite good, even this Optimus ''bug'' shows something that is true - it takes time to wake a device from deep sleep.
Of course, if you want real hard numbers, a real hard benchmark is the only way to go. -
I guess part of the problem is that almost all the synthetic benchmarks will test something particular that isn't easy to translate into practical performance. So I suppose that's one reason why the wei index is useful to some extent. That you see if the hdd or the graphics card is what is slowing you down, that kind of thing.
But it doesn't tell you about actual performance, and I've seen before that computers with low or dynamic bus-speeds, excellent timing scaling, extremely good dual graphics setups, etc. - that score terrible. Same with performance drops in the test from quirks with the virtual memory setup that actually gives you better performance in practice. Or memory timing that are utterly braindead that gives you better test-results in that particular test, but which you won't get in return anywhere else, etc. The wei index also doesn't tell you if for example your sandy or ivy bridge card only partially supports dx11, and can never run well with certain instruction acceleration. It doesn't expose any bottlenecks either in the sub-systems, and therefore arguably won't tell you anything useful at all.
So I use 3dmark11 for 3d performance. And sandra to look at the individual system-specs. Since then you can tell if it's the bus or the disk, or the memory against the controller that is shutting down, etc.
But then again I also like to look at ipstat spoofs in plain text to search for errors, so I don't know.. -
WEI (Winsat) doesn't really give a damn about the state of DX11 support on any of our cards, since it never gets beyond DX10.
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hello again, I've just noticed two barely visible spots of a bit darker color on my screen, located at about 10% of height from the bottom and at 40 and 70% of width, about 2 cm in size. They are only visible against dark gray background. When I press slightly on the back of the lid, these spots ripple. Even if I press far from those spots, the rippling only occurs there. It means the lcd is touching the lid (or some supporting structure) in those locations, and I don't know if it's bad or just by design. The lid has no visible depressions or deformations. I wouldn't say it's a huge issue, because it's visible only on occasion, but I'm a bit worried if this could be a premise for dead pixels in future. Has anyone else noticed spots alike? Is it a warranty case? (I'm not sure I'm willing to mess with warranty on this one, but still it's .. well, you know, SOMETHING ISN'T PERFECT
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I should be getting mine soon from xoticpc. I upgraded the primary disk to a 480GB Intel 520 SSD. I intend to dual boot Win 7 and the latest version of Ubuntu. Will post back my dual boot setup experience.
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Hello all around,
I have been following this thread for a while and my N56vz arrived today via mail. The overall build quality seems to be quite good but I noticed a few things:
1. There are two movable gaps (and a little "scratch) in the display bezel right above each of the rubbery resting points of the display. If looking directly at the gap one can even see the display through the gap. While these are small I fear that they could be doors for dust and other things one does not wish on / in a display. Should I send it back and hope for a better glued one?
2. The HDMI Output seems to sit a little lopsided in its socket. While I do not plan to use it right now I wonder if there could be problems arising from this.
3. The touchpad seems to be a little submerged, funny enough since many seem to have the problem of it sticking out.
As far I have not started up the machine, so I can say nothing about performance etc. but will eventually report on it.
So, what do you gents and ladies, especially fellow owners of the machine, think: Have you noticed the gaps (1) too and is this a common thing or should I - again - wait for a new one?
Many thanks for any replies. -
My specific model is the N56VZ-RB71, which is exactly the same as the DS71 except it has a 7200RPM 750GB hard drive.
I also have a farting sound from the subwoofer; it seems to depend on which program is currently running. Minecraft makes it buzz pretty bad, and the Zune software makes it buzz with a different tone and very quietly, not too bad of a problem.
1)I'm also having a touchpad problem--the top of it is popped up, sorta out of the case and when I pop it down it stays for about a second before popping up... Also, and this is worse, the top strip of the touchpad is nonfunctional; Does anyone else have this problem?
2)About heat, when running Minecraft, the left half of the computer (especially the bottom) gets very hot but not burning-hot. I haven't experienced any degrade in performance because of the heat, though.
3)About the wireless problem, it's most likely due to the wireless device being "allowed to turn off to save energy". There is a fix in the first review on this Amazon page, which should work with all the different Asus N-series models: Amazon.com: ASUS N56VZ-DS71 15.6-Inch Laptop (Black): Computers & Accessories
The speaker holes do not go throughout all the visible dots on the keyboard; there are circles of dots that are perforated, about 1 inch in diameter, on the left and the right. They blend in with all the other dots. -
I've been looking at this ASUS and the samsung 7 series 17.3 inch. They both have similar specs, but I was leaning more towards the samsung since it had a GT 650M gddr5, instead of the ASUS' gt 650m gddr3. The price difference is huge, the samsung is about 350 dollars more than the ASUS. What do you guys think, is it worth it to get the Samsung over the N56VZ?
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So here goes..
No.. unless you plan to overclock the card to a degree that will make the samsung chassis melt (it leads heat into the chassis), then there's no performance gain to be had. My theory is that the gddr5 ram design itself is intended to have similar performance but at more compact pcb construction. While in any case, the graphics card chips (and low level instruction handling) is identical, so you won't see any difference for normal shader-operation. But the pcb design may make the gddr5 chips more overclockable than the ddr3 chips.
There may be situations where gddr5 performs better though, but I haven't seen any proof of that yet. And I really think it's hearsay - that no one has actually found any example of it, either with aa operations or specific physx routines, or something like that. Gddr5 ram also uses more power than ddr3 ram. So don't go for the higher numbered ram model because of performance.
Actually.. that model should be cheaper, since the ram itself is cheaper to produce in mass.. Could be something else you get with the samsung that works better, though. Even if they have the same annoying locked bios, by all accounts.. -
Just got my n56vz, it is an amazing laptop. I do not have any of the problems people have mentioned earlier, except there is one slight annoyance I am wondering about. The space bar seems to be ever so slightly lower on the left side, and higher on the right side (slight curve). The space bar works perfectly fine however. Is this something pressing on the right side enough will eventually fix, or should I just deal with it? Definitely not worth returning it over, considering the next one could have a worse issue.
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Also, I don't think the samsung is that much better in terms of performance, but the look of it is just so darn sexy. If only the 15.6 samsung had the same specs as the asus n56, along with the same price lol, but miracles are scarce these days. -
Max Payne 3 Asus N56VZ GT650m i7 - YouTube check for some gaming
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A question to owners: has someone tested the performance of USB 3.0 ports with fast external devices (USB 3.0 pendrives or USB 3.0 SSDs) and checked if speed is on the expected USB 3.0 standard level and connection is stable?
Since USB 3.0 is just starting to appear, I'm wondering if USB 3.0 drivers used on N56VZ are already efficient and stable.
Moreover, is compatibility with USB 2.0 devices trouble-free?
Thanks. -
Is it normal for the Asus N56VZ to have a slightly raised track pad at the top, opposite of the keyboard? The track pad is well placed apart from it's top where it is slightly raised and is not flush with the body. The laptop originally came with the BIOS 202 so i'm assuming it's one of the earlier production models (May). If you guys can describe your track pads to me that'll be great as i am contemplating returning my model before time runs out.
Thanks -
rashboosh,
I have the same issue and mine is also a May production. Other than that and the subwoofer noises, which I think is caused by the wires or circuit not being shelided as the noises seem to be related to the screen refresh. I am still debating about returning mine and waiting for a later production. My only concern there is I may be exchange one set of problems for another -
@KLNP93: Seems the usb3 thing works normally. USB isn't stable, and it has variable speeds and so on. But it seems to work as advertised.
Usb 2.0 compatibility is not a problem. Only issue so far seems to be that some of the win7 installs you can find around the net don't include a default usb driver that works. So you would end up booting the install from a usb-stick just fine, but then the install would fail after the init. .. that kind of problem exists. Can't see any other problems.
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Hi guys,
I'm very tempted by this notebook, I've actually got my eye on one right now, the only problem is that it's an i5-3210M and it hasn't been reviewed anywhere yet. All the other components are similar: GPU - GT 650M, 8 GB of RAM, etc.
As I don't play games, nor rendering, video editing or the sort, just surfing the net, watching 1080p videos and office tasks, I tend to believe that an i5 is a better choice for now. I think I don't really need quad-core capabilities, while i5 is cheaper and I hope for the temperatures to be kept in normal, at least below of those of i7 version.
Only issue so far, as having read that for i7 version the CPU and GPU are (let's say) bottlenecked in certain scenarios due to the limited capacity of the power adapter (120W) together with the high temperatures having been reached, I wonder whether it's a bigger problem with i5 version's power adapter capacity (90W).
Any thoughts?
As there's plenty of reviews out there for i7 version and not even one for i5, I'd like to ask the i5 owners to share their impressions about it. Tks. -
I've been looking to get this laptop for a while...but I'm still not 100% sure.
I'll be using this laptop for mainly schoolwork, lot's of Skyping, streaming, a lot of multitasking and light gaming. I doubt I'll be playing BF3, Diablo or anything of the sort as I use my PS3 for that.
It's between this laptop and the Y580 at the moment...but I'm not a big fan of how the Y580 looks.
Any other suggestions? I'd love for it to be under 1100. -
I just got this laptop and I strongly recommend to get this laptop than the Y580. The build quality is just better and it will benefit you in the long run. The touchpad issues are exaggerated. Sure, the top of my touchpad is pops a little but who cares? The only problem I have with it so far is that the sound distorts when the volume is on maximum in certain songs. Will someone please test this with their 56VZ by listening to this song on full volume? I hope this is not a common problem but only just a defect with my laptop.
Radiohead - All I Need - YouTube -
@Dmayner
Does your trackpad actually look normal (like part of the desgin of the laptop) or does it look like its protruding out significantly? As for mine, it visualy blends into the body of the laptop and doesn't look out of place at all. Its just the feel of the top of the trackpad that really buggers me but visual wise, it looks quite normal and everything else is fine with the laptop. So will you be returning yours or leaving it as it is?
Thanks, -
rashboosh
Yes, my trackpad looks normal and it barely protrudes. Basically you just feel it. The trackpad is just weird in that parts of it sit low and parts of it sit high. I am thinking it has to do with its need to flex for the clicking. So far as whether or not I am going to return it, I am not sure. I am seriously considering it, but the trackpad is only a part of why I might return it. Like someone else said, in the end it will probably not even be an issue. -
I'm really torn between this and the MSI GE60.
Asus build quality seems to be pretty good and the laptop does not get very hot which is awesome. But I fear that the GPU (which is much lower performance compared to the GE60) will be outdated soon which wouldn't be worth spending $1k on.
What do you guys think? I don't do super hardcore gaming, but I do want to be able to play sc2 and d3 on at least high settings and any games in the near future as well. -
..same chip, pretty much the same performance. There's not enough difference, if there is any at all, between the 640m, 650m and 660m cards to let that make a difference over other things with the laptop. That class of chips is the best you can get at the highest heat/power-consumption level at the moment. With 2500-3000 3dmarks in 3dmark11. It's a bit more power-hungry than I'd like, but it's the best in that upper class of portable gaming/performance right now. And this is going to last a fairly long time, considering how things develop in the industry right now. But technically, there's no new chip from nvidia coming up that has higher performance than the 640-660m chips while still staying at the same power-consumption. So this is going to be where it's at for a while.
Next alternative is a trinity a10/apu setup with an extra dedicated module. Some of the hp dv-4 and 6 versions have that, just not with a larger screen. The n56 is supposed to turn up with an apu version with a dedicated extra card like that.. n56dp? When we don't know. Then we're talking about about 2300 3dmarks on what I'd guess would be half the power-consumption at full load. You'll also have much lower "idle"/low use effect-draw. But without Asus coming up with some bigger power-cells, we're still talking about 5-6h of battery life even so.. Might not be worth it, depending on what you're focusing on.
If you want something that approaches desktop performance right now, you need a gaming rig with a gtx 680m or a 7970m. Which means a lot more heat, a bigger power-supply, less battery-life, no gaming on battery, etc. -
Can't anyone tell me if they get distorted noise when playing music from the N56VZ?????
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Probably depends on the stream quality. If it only happens on youtube, then that's the problem.
..and if there's distortion because the speakers are about to die, it should be audible on lower volume as well. Same as on any other amplifier. You could amplify a very low signal from a mobile phone, for example, until it's finally audible, and amplify the distortion as well. The speakers and the amplifier works perfectly fine, but the input signal sucks. And you're bound to have some problems like that if an application is amplified up or down with the soundcard before it's sent to the speaker/amplification part.
..er.. what I mean is. If you turn the volume all the way down in the youtube window, or all the way up, you're bound to get distortion. But usually people don't amplify the signal, or the laptop speakers sound like buckets no matter what they play, etc. -
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Well, that doesn't sound good. And the speakers normally can be played comfortably at full volume.
But if the program normalize the volume first, you can get weird stuff like that. A filter that upsamples one channel, for example. Same thing. Or some codec problem. Or just noise on the actual recording. Too high gain in the equaliser in the program, etc. All of those can make it sound aggressive, without the speakers actually being broken..
So try finding a good quality player.. I don't know.. spotify. Something you know doesn't have variable quality on the stream. Then make sure the sound application in windows isn't pre-amplifying it, and that the hardware control in the "properties" on the control panel says 100% on the amplification. If it still distorts the sound when you turn up the volume, it could be the speakers. -
today I've visited an asus authorized service center on the issue of a rippling spot on my lcd when ajusting the lid. they told me it's ok, the lid is so thin, blah-blah - which isn't surprise for me, anyway, it's really too small an issue to let them shuffle through my laptop, potentially adding more issues than before. (I've seen an HP dv7 after an authorized repair - scratches all around the bottom, doesn't seem like it was treated with any care there)
but then a technician guy routinely browsed through my system and told me that I'm in error because I installed official nvidia driver for the gt650m. "if you don't want to get your gpu burnt in year or so, get rid of official driver and instal the one from asus site." Answering my utter astonishment, he continued: "the one from the official site is not optimized for thermal conditions of a certain laptop and therefore might run higher clock and hotter, raising the chance of failure". I really don't know if it's true, I didn't quite believe him initially, but now I'm in doubt. What do you guys think of it? -
nipsen, Eduard Khill (R.I.P.) always improves my mood, but I don't hear him singing anything meaningful about nvidia drivers in this song!
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Hi guys
I am a new member of this forum , I bought it partly because of the review by nipsen and the positive remarks of other users on this forum. There are not many reviews of this model out there so these pages were a good sent.
So this is my first laptop ,and i am very happy with it. The screen is excellent , no back-light bleeding that i can see, good viewing angles and high resolution. The build quality is very good. I love the keyboard , no flax and the backlighting is awesome. The touchpad is very good in my opinion , large , responsive ,accurate. Unfortunately my model is also a bit raised at the upper right edge.
When i first got the laptop i was shocked at how many programs were installed , and rather than uninstalling them , i just installed a clean image of windows, and activated them with the code on the bottom of the laptop.
The problem i now have is that the subwofer does not work anymore, i dont know if it needs a specific program from the Asus site to function?
I am also thinking about changing the HDD for SSD and the ODD for the original HDD. Probably will not be doing this for another month or so.
How do i do this , do i use some kind of disk migration program, how thick does the SSD need to be, what about the windows activation?
Thank you all for your help past and future. -
^subwoofer thing - just install the soundcard drivers. Either from asus' site, or the driver disc. ..You should probably also install the SHE/power profile app, along with the atk packages (for the on screen display popups and fn-keys). Makes controlling the battery life a bit easier.
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Hi.
It seams like my asus n56vz has some issues with perhaps only directx10 graphics. When i run 3DMark vantage, every time the camera switch to an other scene, in a test, it skips a couple of frames.
Playing MW3 everything on max, the lowest fps I get is 35, but at the same time I get stutter, or what it is called, in the movements. I need to keep my mouse at a rather low dpi, or my character seems drunk.
Do I just need to wait for more driver updates, or is there something wrong with yet an other n56vz?
How does your machines handle 3DMark vantage?
3DMark Vantage (Build 1.1.0) download from Guru3D.com -
I really want to be sure the tech guy told me some BS out of his height and might. -
..yeah. The driver on the asus page is an earlier version with a rewritten inf to include the hardware id. There really are no differences from the reference driver. The 650m beta-driver from nvidia should be better supported as well. The asus driver works just fine, though.. Beta-driver has a few updated profiles, some small performance increase.
@elmer_f: Sounds a bit like the profiles don't work well. That you're running with some override switch for number of pre-rendered frames, or something like that. -
I just made a small vidio-clip, showing what is going on:
Stutter on Asus n56vz gt 650m running DirectX10 in 3DMark Vantage - YouTube
Check this guy. He is playing black ops on n56vz, I believe it is similar to the MW3. The lacks are about the same, as some I experience. He seams to be more focused on the fps his machine is running, so I'm not sure if the lacks are do to multiplayer. These lacks in cahoots with my logitech G700, is a terrible combination, unless the sensitivity is rather low. A simple corded mouse, or my G700 on cord, is the same though...
My First Commentary! - Call Of Duty Black Ops TDM - YouTube -
I want to replace the odd with the original Hdd.
What caddy you recomend???
What 256gb ssd is the best, Crucial or Samsung?
Thanks!! -
I'm trying to replace my artheros wireless card with an intel 6300, but after removing the big plastic cover I know see the artheros card....But there's still a plastic frame that prevents me from accessing it...
Anyone knows how to remove this so I can swap the cards? -
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^if it's not the profile switching that doesn't work. Or that the cores go back and forth from boost (lacking she/asus apps for power-management). Then I'd be guessing some sort of malware or background service that locks resources. Could also be the virtual memory - could be placed at the end of the disk, and might keep getting moved. Windows is very imaginative that way.
!!
..no, they're all fast. The sdds with 350mb/s write, 400+ read are exactly the same. Usually they use the same sandforce 2 controller. And the other controllers are at worst typically still twice as fast as the best hdds. Even Crucial have their firmware in order now (even though you could be lucky to get a disk with an old firmware on). The samsung drives are cheap at the moment.. fine purchase if you don't want to go up to the price-point for the 500mb/s read/write drives. Since.. like said.. everything else below that is pretty much identical anyway.
I don't recommend scooping up older drives people are selling out of stock, though. Not because they can't be updated, but because it might be trouble.
..oh, and remember to use the ssd for the boot-drive. -
Hi all, I've done my homework on this notebook, and I'm nearly ready to pull the trigger. My hesitation concerns how to get the best value out of this PC for the long term, without spending more than necessary (student!). I'm hoping to get advice from you all regarding, first, whether the 95% gamut screen upgrade (and perhaps calibration?) from XoticPC is worth it, second, whether upgrading ram from 8gb to 16gb makes any sense for me, and third, the difficulty level of installing a SSD and re-installing Windows 7 with all the necessary drivers.
The Screen
I've searched these forums and review pages for hours, and there doesn't seem to be consensus about 95% gamut screens. People certainly disagree about whether it's a nice enough improvement to justify the cost for the average user (e.g. non-professional photographer). My primary concern is narrowing down the exact quality difference between the 95% gamut matte screen from Xotic PC against the stock matte screen that ships with the N56VZ.
By way of background, I'm an average user. This PC will be my daily driver, and my only computer, which I expect to use eight to twelve hours a day for the next year. I'm a grad student who doesn't work in graphics design or photography whatsoever, but the catch is that I'm a sucker for beautiful screens. I nearly fell for the Retina MBP, until I remembered I really don't like the Mac OS.
Please correct me if I have this wrong; I believe the 95% gamut screen from XoticPC is the AUO B156HW01 V4 ( AUO B156HW01 V4 Overview - Panelook.com) ( http://www.logicalblueone.com.au/docs/B156HW01_V_4.pdf), and I believe the stock N56VZ screen is the Samsung 156HT01-201 (virtually no spec information available online). If that's right, than these two reviews from notebookcheck.net probably offer the best hard technical analysis of the two screens: High-Gamut Matte Display vs. Stock Matte Display
The numbers break down like so:
------------------------------------------- Stock | High-Gamut
Max. Brightness:----------------310 cd/m2 | 259 cd/m2
Avg. Brightness:----------------299 cd/m2 | 247 cd/m2
Brightness Distribution:--------------90% | 92%
Black:-----------------------------0.59 cd/m2 | 0.5 cd/m2
Contrast:-------------------------------514:1 | 518:1
Gamut:----------------------------------60%? | 95%
Helpful comparison charts: AnandTech - The next-gen MacBook Pro with Retina Display Review and Need help! Lenovo Y580 vs Asus N56vz vs Samsung NP700Z5C: at different price points - [H]ard|Forum (scroll down).
Based on these hard numbers alone, does the upgrade for $165 seem a good value? I understanding from several threads that many would say that professional calibration for a high-gamut screen is highly advisable, and that tacks on another $49, for a total screen upgrade cost of $214. Is that worth it?
Has anyone compared these two screens in person? Putting the numbers aside, in the difference pretty big? I've seen around five to ten posts where people say, essentially, "You don't know what you're missing until you see it. Then you can't go back."
RAM
I am considering 8GB or 16GB of total RAM. I understand that a small segment of the average computer-using population will use to capacity even 8 GBs ofram, so 16GB seems like overkill on its face. After all, I plan on playing Skyrim, Guild Wars 2, and perhaps similar titles, but gaming is this PC's secondary purpose. I will primarily be studying, writing , reading, browsing, lightly editing photos, listening to music, and watching movies & streaming videos.
However, my concerns are threefold: 1) it seems RAM is generally the next most important bang-for-your-buck upgrade after getting an SSD (which I plan on doing either way), 2) I hope to use this computer for four or more years (the Vaio I'm typing on now is over five years old), and 3) I am concerned about doing the upgrade myself down the road because of reported compatibility issues with adding two 8GB sticks of ram to the N56VZ. I probably should rely on a reseller to do that properly.
In light of my needs and concerns above, should I opt for the stock 8GB of ram or upgrade to 16GB for $145 more?
SDD & Windows Install
I installed a hard drive into my current laptop and installed Windows 7 + drivers, but honestly, I found it difficult. The laptop was not built easily for customization, and the drivers turned out to be pretty crazy. Will these be issues with upgrading the N56VZ to an SSD? Is it pretty simple? Are people still struggling with drivers?
Pulling the Trigger
What it boils down to is that I'm comparing buying the notebook from a local store for $1089 and installing the SSD myself for $249, for a total cost of $1,338 against going with XoticPC and upgrading the screen (with calibration), 16gb ram, ssd, + extras (cooling paste, clean windows install, drivers cd, and expedited production) for about $1,950. At first I was excited about all of those upgrades, but now, as I stare at the price tag, I'm unsure. I hope a few of you can advise me. Thank you! -
..the stock screen is an lg screen, same as the one used in clevos and thinkpads. ..lgd02d9..? 95% rgb range or so. I've no idea if the alternative screen is better, though.
A reinstall isn't extremely painful, since all the drivers you need are put on the driver disc asus puts in the box. See the guide in the sig.
There's a thread elsewhere on the forum where the guy from GentechPC listed a few ram-sticks that work with the current locked ram-timing in the bios. But if you don't need 16Gb now, I wouldn't recommend upgrading until Asus fixes their bios-tweaker a bit, and set the bios-settings to default spd-timing for the ram instead.
Have to say, though - if you're not actually going to use it for games, heavy 3d modeling, simulation runs, stuff that need good cooling and high performance. Or don't do media-file conversion a lot, use hdmi out, run a media-server, etc. -- you really should consider pilfering the piles of unsold llano/apu cheap-tops the shops will want to get rid of now. Track a few of the models, and take a look in the shops. Might be you could get a very good deal on a dual-core e450/apu setup with extra ram. U32u, or similar. Or you could look at the trinity setups that turn up now. A hp dv6 with all the useful extras + dedicated extra card for $700, that kind of thing. These computers will last approximately twice as long as the intel/nvidia combos on normal day to day work. I'm not exaggerating. The u32 versions with an i3/630m last half as long as the same computer with an e450 setup. Tested it myself. The i3 version streams music via spotify for 4.5 hours while surfing via wifi. The other lasted 9 hours (and that was before underclocking and lowering the volt). And they're still fast enough to work extremely well as a work-computer, or to play videos and music on. I saw one of those with 8gb ram on sale for ~$500 a while back. ..No one wants to buy them for some reason.
Just saying that you might end up paying $800 for a two inch larger screen with higher resolution, and a graphics card and processor you're not really using. Doesn't matter if the n56 probably is the most well-made laptop ever made then. -
I received my Asus N56VZ last Thursday after sending it back to the shop because of cosmetic damages. I got a brand new one without problems! No cosmetic damages, the sound and subwoofer work, the touchpad isn't raised, no sticking keys. I'm happy with it. I also replaced the 1TB 5400RPM with a 256GB Samsung 830 SSD and man, this thing is fast! Temperatures are a bit high:
CPU while browsing: 53-60c
GPU while browsing: 48c
CPU while gaming (one hour, Just Cause 2 maxed out): 85-89c
GPU while gaming: 80c
Room temperature: 26c
I haven't noticed throttling so far. -
Swapping the optical drive with a hard drive using a caddy is one thing. I have the caddy and did the swap but I thought the spinning drive made a little too much noise after getting used to SSD only so I put the ODD back in. Now I miss some extra storage and am considering installing the caddy again. A new question arises however, is there a case out there in which I can place my extracted-to-be optical drive to make it external?
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Can anyone reproduce what I recorded?
Is it perhaps normal, and doesn't reflect what goes on in games?
In 3Dmark06 there is no stutter. In 3Dmark11 there are some casual stutter now and then.
My friend found something usefull on the issue concerning MW3. Some claims it's a MW3 flaw, that makes your dpi-settings jump.
This recording shows what is going when I am playing the game:
Modern Warfare 3: Mouse sensitivity issue - YouTube -
An other thing. Can the usb-ports be set not to switch usb drives off, when rebooting. I have to unplug my external disk each time I boot?
And furthermore, this 'raid-sonic' external case, locks my bios when pluged in before booting. In windows or linux, it can not be read. It works on two other computers i tested. I tested both an USB 2.0 and 3.0 external disk on the n56vz, with out any problems. Does this just happen now or then, or do I have a USB-problem?
http://www.raidsonic.de/en/products/external-cases.php?we_objectID=7000 -
You have me concerned about reliability now though. Could you tell me more about why this computer will last half as long as others? You mentioned 4.5 vs 9 hours. Are you saying that if I use the n56vz for more than 4.5 hours than the laptop becomes unusable and overheats? Or perhaps you're saying that if I use it for more than 4.5 hours daily, the components will burn out in just a couple years? Which component would burn out first? Would this happen if a majority of the time spent on the computer is word processing and internet browsing (non-intensive activities)?
Asus N56VZ-DS71 first impressions
Discussion in 'Asus' started by The_Finder, May 18, 2012.