The Notebook Review forums were hosted by TechTarget, who shut down them down on January 31, 2022. This static read-only archive was pulled by NBR forum users between January 20 and January 31, 2022, in an effort to make sure that the valuable technical information that had been posted on the forums is preserved. For current discussions, many NBR forum users moved over to NotebookTalk.net after the shutdown.
It appears that enthusiasm for the ULxxJT models have waned since the new UxxJC models were announced. Same price and size, but with full i3, non CULV processors. I was one of the many that jumped ship.
it seems that windows locks up for me when rebooting with these drivers.
**side note, the device is finally running well (Wifi issues resolved, cpu buzzing is gone, performance is great for a Ultraportable, battery is decent (3-4 hours heavy usage)). i will however be looking for a replacement
before August 8th. i'm looking for an ultraportable with discrete graphics at or under $800, any ideas?
sorry to beat a dead horse, but I was on the phone with asus yesterday, and I figured out that their global site lists an i5 for the ul80jt, though the us one only has an i3. any idea where i'd get one with the i5?
UL is rated 10 while the U is rated 8. You probably wont reach these hours in real life usage. Id expect probably 6-8 on the UL and 4-6 on the U for normal usage
personally I think the full powered i core in the U is worth it for the couple hrs of battery life lost.
Exactly what I was wondering.. and is the US version of the ul80jt from Amazon shipping yet? It has not been reviewed on their site..
Does anybody know if the i3 330um still has the asus "turbo33" since it cannot be overclocked?
Also, do you think that I will be able to run Photoshop CS5 and Autodesk Inventor 2011 decently on the US version of the ul80jt? The minimum specs can say what they want, I was just wondering if anybody knew from real life use.
Can someone told me why the US version of the asus ul80jt is an i3 processor. That mean, we can't have an i5-520um processor nor a 7200rpm hdd in ul80jt in US? thank you
Autodesk inventor sates that the minimum requirements are as follows:
For General Part and Assembly Design (Typically Fewer than 1,000 Parts)
Microsoft® Windows 7 (32-bit or 64-bit) Home Premium, Professional, Ultimate/Enterprise, or Microsoft® Windows Vista® (SP2) (32-bit or 64-bit) Home Basic, Home Premium, Business, Enterprise, or Ultimate, or Microsoft® Windows XP Professional (SP3) or Professional x64 Edition (SP2) (1,2) Intel® Pentium® 4, 2 GHz or faster, Intel® Xeon®, Intel® Core, AMD Athlon 64, or AMD Opteron, or later (3) 2 GB RAM or more (4) Microsoft® Direct3D 10® or Direct3D 9® capable graphics card (5) DVD-ROM drive (6) Microsoft® Mouse-compliant pointing device 1280 x 1024 or higher screen resolution Internet connection for web downloads and Subscription Aware access Adobe Flash Player 10 (7) Microsoft® Internet Explorer® 6.x through 8 Microsoft® Excel 2003 through 2007 for iComponents, thread customization, and spreadsheet-driven designs For Complex Models, Complex Mold Assemblies, and Large Assemblies (Typically More than 1,000 Parts)
Windows 7 64-bit, Windows Vista 64-bit (SP2), or Windows XP Professional x64 Edition (SP2) AMD64 or Intel® 64 processor 6 GB RAM or more CAD workstation-class graphics card
I just posted some reply @ ul30JT thread, even tho nobody here asked me questions, thought I might copy and paste it here to share with you in case you are trying to decide which model to buy...
I have the UL30VT and also have the Bestbuy UL80J RBBk.
UL30VT has much longer battery life. With turbo 33 and on entertainment mode, I would go over 8 hours real usage with 3 bars of brigthness.
UL80J (Bestbuy one) is kinda hard to say for now since I just got it yesterday but the battery is indeed 4400mah and on power saver mode, turbo 33 off, brightness at the lowest setting at 99%, windows battery meter reads 5 hours 30 mins. With slight increase in brightness or other heavier activities, it drops down to 4 hours or even 3 hours 50 mins.
With careful power consumption profile and activity minimized and screen brightness dimmed to lowest or 1 bar up. When battery is between 85% to 100%, the power meter can show anywhere from 3.5 to 5.5 hours. I do not understand this fluctuation and could not pinpoint a pattern. UL30VT seem to be much more consistent in power meter readings.
As for keyboard and track pad, the trackpad is smooth no holes in them and there are 2 dedicated button. They are much much more comfortable to use then UL30VT. As for keyboard the key is much more responsive than UL30VT's as well. UL80J's key seems to have more material/weight to it than flimsy UL30VT's.
As for testing SU7300 and I3-330um on daily tasks, I could not tell any difference but hey, the cpu meter shows 4 threads and look pretty lol.
Right now at 93% and entertainment mode with screen fully bright and MSN messenger running and wireless on, windows battery meter shows 3 hours 12 mins...not exactly what I was expecting.
PS:
Now having let it sit here for a while typing with power saver mode, no turbo 33, lowest brightness setting wireless on. At 89% battery it shows 5 hours 40 mins battery......this lappy is moody like woman. But I suspect it has to do with Optimus...
what i meant to say... will the ul80's be OCable beyond the 1.6ish GHz... i'm thinking closer to stock i3 speeds... from my knowledge the ul80j from bestbuy and the ul80jt available elsewhere have the same motherboard, cpu, ram, etc.
what peaked my interest, was that i noticed the ul30's have been overclocked successfully... and was wondering if ul80 could be OCed as well.
however, i don't think there's enough interest in the community to work on this model, as only a handful of us have purchased it.
What did you do to get the wireless issues resolved? After a clean install of Windows 7 professional I have had nothing but trouble with the wireless! Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Apart from that I really like the ul80jt. I picked it up about a week ago and, for the price, it is quite a nice little package.
yes. there's a bug in windows (or in the wifi drivers) that will not let you re-wake wifi after it has been shut off. this is commonly seen when your computer is in power-saving mode. to alleviate the problem, you need to do the following:
Ctrl Panel -> Power Options -> Change Plan Settings -> Change Advanced Power Settings -> Wireless Adapter Settings -> Power-Saving Mode -> Switch both battery and plugged in to "Maximum Performance".
Do this for all the profiles you use. It will fix 90% of the wifi drops. however they still occur randomly, which can be fixed by a restart. solution not perfect, but works good enough.
Also, not sure if this changes anything, but this could help:
Ctrl Panel -> Network and Internet -> Network Connections -> Right-click your wireless adapter and select Properties -> Configure -> Power Management tab -> Unclick "Allow the computer to turn off this device..."
I did the 2nd part already which fixed random wireless drop greatly. Now the problem is random (I would guess 1 out o 10) computer turn on resulted in no wifi unless I press FN and F2. It is not a huge deal but just an inconvenient for fraction of a second. But most of all...it just sucks to have a brand new laptop like this making me wanna return and get the old UL80VT which has no problem. I have just changed all the 1st part of power settings like you advised. will let you know how It goes. If you happen to come across anything please let me know..I"ll do the same.
PS: Asus tech support told me to reinstall window... YEA RIGHT!
So I went to Best Buy to check out various laptops for kicks today. The only Asus they had was the UL80JT, and boy did that thing have terrible keyboard flex. I don't really notice flex much, but this thing was bouncy to the lightest touch all over. I doubt it represents all UL80JT models, but if there's inconsistency in the build quality then it's something to consider.
I have also adjusted the power settings as wuyanks suggested and the wireless it much improved, however, occasionally the FN/F2 key combination will not toggle the wireless. Any thoughts?
I have made an interesting discovery. Each time my wireless drops and I reboot the device is being re-installed with a different number. At random my wireless card shows up as Atheros AR9285 Wireless Adapter, Atheros AR9285 Wireless Adapter #2 or Atheros AR9285 Wireless Adapter #3.
I have never seen this sort of behavior before can any of you confirm that your wireless device has been installed multiple times?
I also made an interesting discovery. This laptop's wirelss driver property under DETAIL, constant changing and the property in the DETAIL box kept moving and I could see from it it's constantly rotating meaning the detail kept shifting as if its constantly uninstalling and installing itself. There are multiple and I mean over 10 registry footprints in there indicating lots of installation going on. I wonder who's problem this is.
Uninstalling program now and gonna return it tomorrow.
I have one of these coming from work and was thinking that maybe the wireless problems could be solved by simply putting in a different wifi card (and driver)? Or do you think it is related to the system BIOS?
I would probably go with an Intel 6300 since they can be bought cheaply enough.
Regardless I will do it anyways. Laptops are not exactly impossible to open up.....except for the motherboard they are often as customizable as desktops almost (at least the bigger ones are)
This saddens me. I only recently bought a UL80J from best buy, and I'm extremely frustrated with the wifi issues. With all the reported issues with it, I'm still surprised that no one seems to know what the real problem is.
I wonder if a USB wifi dongle has the same issues, or if it's only Atheros-related. Disappointing...
have you tried the methods in this thread that remedy 90% of the wifi failures? look back over the past few pages.
aside from wifi issues, the machine isn't so bad. even though the CPU is at 1.6ghz, it's more than enough for the average user... multitasking works just fine... 720p video playback is good... just don't expect to play Starcraft 2 or cod mw2 on medium or high settings...
I have newest BIOS and Atheros 8.0.0.305 dated 2/9/10. So far this has worked out pretty well for me.... so far. I have also, when the wifi drops, have used FN-F1 (sleep) and awake right away to fix it. The last week I don't think I have had trouble on it, but I have not tried to stream a movie over my home wifi, as that was something that would drop in the middle of the movie... very annoying.
If the wifi issue is gone I am very happy with the laptop
Hello I was just wondering if someone could clarify the following issue.
Asus UL80JT (vs UL80VT)
(1) is the successor of Asus UL80VT
(2) Has automatic switchable graphic
(3) use core i3 (or i7??) vs core 2 duo for VT
However, around the web there are news about the UL80JT with 12 hours battery life, (
asus ul80jt 12 hours - Google Search) yet some reviews state that the UL80VT is has better battery life.
So I was wondering if my only concern is battery life and i do not mind restarting the laptop (may take 5 minutes at most) and in turn receive 1 more hour of battery life if the Asus UL80VT is the better choice of the 2.
BTW. is the configuration on Amazon the correct one for the 11.5 hours battery life or will I have to buy another battery or change the configuration.
Do not trust marketing stuff for numbers on battery life.....they will always be unreliable and lean towards making the machine look better than it is.
If anyone can help the cause, I'm looking to overclock the UL80JT. Anybody know the PLL? or any other way we could overclock this? i'd like a bit more processing power...
Problems? See this thread at archive.org.
