U80 Backlit keyboard in U81?

I recently bought a U81 from best buy and the only thing i wished it had was the backlit keyboard, everything else works great and wasn't worth the extra 300 for the U80. But now I really want that backlit keyboard and with a little searching found the U80 backlit keyboard on ebay for $35 shipped which is a great price for the upgrade, and it looks to be exactly the same layout and size minus the backlight, So to my question, DOes anyone know if I can just swap it in like a standard keyboard swap or will it not work? and also how is the backlight activated on the U80, could that be replicated on the u81? Heres the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/New-ASUS-U80-La...35da81e&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ebayphotohosting

Thanks for any knowledge anyone can shed on this subject.

 

By the looks of the keyboard, it seems there is two connections. One to the motherboard for the keyboard connection and one to the motherboard, I would assume, for the backlighting.

The only thing I can recommend is to take out your existing keyboard and check if there is a empty connection port with the approximate size to the connector in the image(the small orange one)

 

I am writing from a back-lit u81 (bought from BBY)

1. yes it works
2. no it wasn't easy
3. can't change the brightness of keyboard
4. it's so freakin' kool!

here's how to do the mod:

1. led lights need 5v.
2. remove old keyboard by lightly lifting it from the slots near the numbered keys
3. unhook keyb.
4. to the right of the keyb. you'll see 2 big square-ish solder points (any one of those can be used as the ground (-)
5. slightly above those 2 solder points, you'll see 4 little solder points. I'm not sure what the 2 left ones are (probably the input control for the brightness, but I don't know how to hook them up or use them), but the 2 right ones output 5v.
6. I broke my yellow cable by pulling it too much, so be careful with them. I ended up soldering those connecting points. It might actually be easier to solder than trying to tape it.
7. if you look at the yellow power cable and the end of the tab is facing you; the right side is 5v+

. | | |
. | | |
- |_|_| 5V+

again, I can't turn off the back lighting. I prefer it on anyways.

 

O_O

I have a U81A and am really interested in doing this. But I'm a noob and don't have any experience with soldering or anything and would probably mess up, following those directions. Can you post more detailed directions?

 

http://www.solder.net/technical/tips.asp

read up on soldering. It has to be seen, and practiced upon. I'm not that great of a solderer, but I can make due, without spilling or shorting. Make sure you're not using too much solder, since the connections are pretty small.

Also, after you have finished soldering, make sure to tape your solder points since the bottom backing of the laptop is metal. We don't want any shorts. I also taped my solder points on the mobo, like asus does through out the motherboard. Better safe than sorry.









Also, the kb came with a metal backing that was screwed in (6 screws) and 2 nuts sticking out. I removed the metal backing since the u81 doesn't have the right holes for it.

kb is so much better, the keys are laser etched (instead of being printed), and is less bouncy than the original keyboard. Much easier to type on, and look at at night. I just really wish I could dim it and turn it off. That would make it even better.

Hope that helps.

My next mod is awaiting for this fun laptop. I ordered a pciexpress wifi and bluetooth card to replace the one it came with. Can't wait to try it out.

 

Sweet, thanks! That looks really bright. I wonder if the battery takes a big hit, lol.

 

no, i haven't seen much difference with it. i'm stll getting 5-6 hours on my laptop.

 

So, you're trying to add internal Bluetooth now? I'll want to do that too if you can it to work

I'm considering getting a Logitech VX Nano mouse, but even though its receiver is tiny, I'd rather not have anything sticking out, nor have a USB port used up.

 

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25291

nuff said, go get it.

just unscrew the wireless card, unhook the two antennas, replace card, replace screws, click in 2 antennas, done

 

Great work. Rep sent.

 

nice keyboard mod, that card we would loose 1T2R Draft n........

Edit; I wonder two things. Since there is four conncetions there that seem to line up with the cable should they be used? Second then is there seems to be functions on F3 and F4 if they would then control the keyboard lights......

 

It would make sense for the yellow cable to line up with the 4 solder points on the mobo, but is it really that simple...?

 

that's what I thought too, but the 4 connectors really are 2 connectors if you look at my image. It's 2 little gold leads going to one big gold lead. I did put the volt meter up to the other 2 solder points but nothing happened.
I also put tried to connect those two points to the keyboard before soldering them on, but nothing happened either.
Also, remember that this laptop is not supposed to have a backlit keyboard. I don't think the mobo has the functionality for it. I only "bypassed" the mobo by finding 5v, and a ground point. At least that what I think.

 

It shouldn't be on/ground by default. I will bet the Ground is cut on/off by the computer with a normal off type relay. This would control the on/off of the keybord lights and possibly the dimming to.

 

that is correct, but when I connected the 4 leads and tried to hit Fn+f3 or f4, nothing would happen, even on screen (atk displays)

 

That stinks, maybe something in our bios is disabled that we will never see. It could even be a hardwire missing too. Would have been nice though. Too bad the control logic/circuitry wasn't embedded to the keyboard itself.......

 

Sorry don't mean to double post, edited my signature. I wanted to add that I just flashed the U81a bios with 208 from the U80a section. It is available in the u80a regular section not in the U80a Best Buy section. I see no difference however.........

 

I just did that too, as well as updated the drivers for the atk stuff. Still nothing. I guess the board doesn't have that kind of functionality.

 

I still think what you have is cool though. It may be something I'll be doing myself. I love this laptop but it is the one thing I wish it had.

Edit; only 5 left on ebay so I've ordered mine before the getting is gone.......

Also I've noticed there is a new FN to the "A" key does that do the lights?

 

I tried that too, but the laptop doesn't have the hardware for auto dimming (ambient light detection).

 

Mine finally shipped, now the waiting game........

 

I missed the Post Man as these are sent registered mail. I get to pick it up tomorow at the post office. I am hoping if I can't get control of the brightness I can at least get it to less than full on. Just need enough to be able to distinguish the keys, not enough to burn out my eye sockets........

 

Good luck! I haven't actually bought the keyboard yet......If you get it all working with ease, I may finally be jealous enough to give it a try.

 

I just picked up the keyboard and put it in so far sans the backlight. When you look at it, it appears there is supposed to be a header block like that for the keyboard cable. I'll have to look around to see if I can find one. If I can't I may try using a mini connector like that for a radio control servo and solder that to the keyboards cable.

I put the Multi meter looking for voltage across the 5v and other side and the system shut down, scared the brown stuff out of me.........

 

Going to add some pics, all images quickly loaded and converted on the U81a too.........



Back of the two keyboards, notice the default connection area's are in a different position of the standard cable.


New Board connect (new back pannel removed before final install)


Again no backlight yet but before and after so far. As you can clearly see the Laser etched keys, even without backlight, are somewhat brighter and cleaner..........

 

It does appear we are relegated to just one output lighting level. No adjustments as the extra keys activate NOTHING! I also placed thin paper board pieces between the deck and keyboard. They are the thickness of a thin matchbook cover. This takes away all flex from the keboard and I think improves cooling.

If you notice in one of the picks the fan pulls air from an opening going to the keyboard area. these small cardboard pieces lift the keyboard providing more free air flow. HWMonitor had all my temps 40-42C now THRM is usually 5C less than the core and the drive about 4C less and the core is the same 40-42C under idle..........

This was unexpected so I never screen shot the original temps I was just checking to be sure things were not worstened.

Edit; I should note, albeit slightly, the fan noise is louder. It is the fact you are moving more air now. You can also feel more air flow from the side too. This actually may be lightening the fan motor load which could theoretically lengthen the fan life and create slightly less battery drain...............

 

Very nice. I'm glad you were able to take pics before the install... I didn't.
I also received the bluetooth wireless card. it's was meh.
wireless part worked real well (I don't need N yet), but the bluetooth part didn't work so well.
1. with a mouse, it was laggy. (probably due to the same frequency being shared with the wireless nic)
2. bluetooth headphones and voip headsets worked well.

so I took it out and replaced the old wireless nic inside. What I did decide to do was to take apart my bluetooth dongle, and solder the connectors to the USB port (on the inside of the laptop). I just won't use one of the ports now, but at least, there won't be something sticking out of the laptop.

 

I blew it, the solderig iron got too close to the main cable and melted it. Not sure I want to tgry again, you really need four hands for this............

 

That sucks. I'm scared now...

 

You guys can send me your laptops (pay for shipping both ways) and I'll solder it for you and return it.

 

please post a picture of the melted part. if it's the dual gold connector that you melted, you can cut that part, and scrape off (carefully)the top plastic part to reveal more of the gold connection.

 

No it was lower in the cable..........

 

I'll need to see it so I can help you.

 

Quick question before I start soldering. The 5v solder points, there are 2 points from how I see it in your picture and on the laptop. Those points are so freaking small how did you keep them from touching each other or does it not matter if they touch?

I don't want to mess anything up just want to double check before I get in there and start soldering.

TIA

 

Good question. My solder is actually covering both points, because they ARE too small. So it's ok to solder over both points, you won't short out anything. I thought about it too, since the yellow cable has 4 connection points, but if you go up the cable, the 4 gold connectors turn to 2 connectors. So I assumed the 2 5v solder points were the same.

 

yea the gold cable I figured but the other two I was a little concerned about. I did it it works but ran into and HUGE problem. I used 20 gauge wire and it was too big i can't snap the keyboard back down without a bump being present. I left all the soldering in and just took out the wires. going to see if I can find like super thin wires like the ones used in the computer itself.

I was so excited it lit it up and everything, what size wires did you use btw?

 

i had an extra 9v battery connector with wires attached to it. I think they're 26 gauge wire. Pretty thin

 

I'm about to give up got 24 gauge wire everything fits............. then when I was flipping the keyboard over to snap it it the gold cable ripped it got caught on the corner.

When I finally got everything right this goes wrong. I don't think I'm supposed to have this backlit keyboard, not meant to be.

Any idea on how to fix it or am I SOL and need to buy a new one.

Thanks again for your help

 

mine ripped too, but I shaved the top plastic part of the gold connectors to reveal the gold, so I can solder it.

 

I would only attempt this again if I could find the proper 4 pin flex cable header. I have no problem in modifying the power inputs to it for ground but those cables are to delicate for my soldering skills and big hands etc......

 

It ripped at the keyboard part, I don't even know where to start to try to scrap off the black part on the back of the keyboard. It just exposes 2 stripe 1 decently thick where I can solder but the other is so thin it's near impossible to get into. I ended up ordering another one from ebay, the guy gave me a break and only charged me $20 bucks for it. This is getting expensive to get a blacklit keyboard at this point but I'm just determined to get this working after seeing it light up.

Also as for soldering if you're worried about messing up the points this is what I did just to keep things separated. Just tape off the other areas only exposing the points where you want to solder, making it a hell of a lot easier not to catch a point that you don't want to solder.

 

I was fine with the board, holding the cables while keeping clear of the others etc etc etc got me. This is why if we could get the headers it would be so much easier. Maybe I'll get another but at then solder a mini deans power conector to the board and keyboard so the keyboard can be done seperately then connected later........

Edit; I gave in and ordered another. I'll also stop by the hobby shop and get a mini deans connector (used in radio control for quick disconnect low power batteries). This will alow me to solder the main board and keyboard seperately and provide a quick disconnect for the keyboard too. Instead though I may go with a four wire servo connector as then I could solder to all four leads of the cable and play with the feeds to them seperately.......

 

Does this mod make keyboard always backlighted?

 

At present yes! as long as the system is on it is powered. It is however LED lit so there should be little effect to battery life. I think the port there is the proper connections but we are apparently missing something needed to control the power.

The new keys are there but there is nothing activated by them, FN+F3 FN+F4 and FN+A do nothing. More than likely we are missing the light sensor circuitry. Once I have the servo M/F connector I'll try an play a bit but have little to no confidence in finding a solution as I am not also willing to fully pull this appart. Even a full breakdown to better understand what we have would most likely yeild no results.

 

I'm wondering if it would be possible to use this mod with UL80.

 

Keyboards look the same but wont be able to tell until I get one in my hands. I will be attempting it though, but going to do it smart- Run the 5v+ wire all the way through the laptop to the bluetooth power switch. Since this laptop doesnt come with bluetooth but has the button/connectors for it, pressing the bluetooth FN on/off button should turn on the power to the keyboard if hooked up to the bluetooth +5v.

win win.

 

That was a thought here too, my concern if the amount of dissasembly. Once someone pulls appart the keyboard though from the UL80 we might better know, maybe the powered header will already be there........

I know with the U81a we don't have it but the traces on the mainboard are there.....

 

Nice idea with BT key. Will You be trying this with UL30 or UL80 ?

 

UL80Vt

10chars

 

Great, I'm looking forward to buy it too. If this mod will end up successful I'd even could buy it abroad for better price and replace keyboard with US one.