UL30 Backlit Keyboard Mod

Has anyone used this for the yellow ribbon cable.




It's a 5V source, I tested it with the keyboard and it lights up great. It would really be alot easier to just plug it in to there, no wires, wire glue, or steady hands.

The only problem is the cable is too short. About two inches. Anyone have any solution?

 

I finally got around to installing my keyboard today. I tried doing the touch circuit (Qprox QT110) thing and finally gave up on that part of it. I was really close, but my solder connections kept breaking and I just don't have the equipment or skill to solder such tiny parts. But, I did successfully get the keyboard lighted without an on/off circuit. I had to solder the wire to the motherboard, sadly, because the wire glue I bought on ebay just didn't conduct at all. I was super-disappointed.

Thanks so much for the instructions on this! I absolutely love the lighted keyboard - it's fantastic!

 

where can i go buy the electrical wires necessary for this mod?

ebay? amazon?

radioshack? home depot?

 

Are you serious? I thought I kinda overkilled on the pictures... there is more than enough information here.

 

Yep, I would post a picture, but I damaged my yellow ribbon cable while using that retarded wireglue. Seriously, that stuff is trash. Didn't conduct anything, and the connections broke off even if you tapped the wire. I'm waiting on a new keyboard and new soldering iron to do this for realz.

 

I'm glad it wasn't just me. The wire glue I got was garbage. I thought maybe it was just the stuff I bought since it was from ebay (they didn't have it at Radio Shack)

 

i agree on the wireglue, it ain't great

 

If you want more pictures, here's my mod using a switch instead of the touch sensor. A lot less wiring, and much simpler.
Get a switch like this, I took mine from an old broken cellphone. You can probably find one like this in most old electronics or at radioshack

And here is your 5v and grounding source, siphoning from the USB port is a lot safer, as it is rated to supply up to 500mA of current.

Now insert the switch to the inside of the ethernet port, it its too big, trim it, if its too small, put a tiny bit of super glue on it. I choose to use this port because no one these days really use it, for internet, especially on an ultraportable. If you really need an ethernet port, you can get a usb to ethernet adapter from ebay for about 3 bucks.

connect your wires to the keyboard and then you should be done.

 

OK, now that I've read (rapidly) most of the thread, I can ask my question: Why hasn't anyone tried to wire it to some small independent battery instead of latching on to the laptop's electrics with the limitations that are listed through most of the thread?

I'm thinking of adding 3x small 1.5V watch batteries under the hard drive cover and running a switch on the wires with access thru a hole in the cover. Am I missing something?

As you might have guessed, I really don't want to mess around with my motherboard; but I'd be interested if the was a plastic connector that gave 5 volts in a reliable and convinient way (like an empty Bluetooth connector, but our laptop is too full-featured)

 

Heretic I know, but would it be possible to replace the keyboard on a Sony Vaio Y with this same backlit keyboard?

Or the upcoming u33jc?

 

@ ncc1701k

so you have the keyboard, the USB ground/5v, and the switch.

how'd you connect all three?

wire from switch - usb - keyboard?

so you soldered four wires to the usb?

 

You cannot cross keyboards from different manufacturers... for one it probably won't fit, and 2 the connectors aren't the same to my understanding.

It won't work on the U33Jc either, unless you plan on cutting a big hole in the aluminum, as it appears to be one solid piece, not separate.

 

Did you remove the whole top plate to reach the usb ports?
Was it easy?

 

@Wasabi
It goes: 5V USB -> Keyboard +terminal -> Keyboard -terminal -> switch -> grounding (anywhere a screw holding down the motherboard can serve as a grounding).
The middle two connections on a USB port doesnt provide and power, they are for data transfers.

@cybertim.
Yeah it was pretty easy, just take off all the screws from the bottom and the top plate, it comes off pretty easily.


The keyboard shape and layout looks the same as generic Asus chicklet keyboard, which means they probably just took their normal keyboard and put a big piece of aluminium over it. If you're ballsy enough to dissemble your new U33jc, the swap might just be feasible.

Asus seriously just need to spend an extra 5 bucks on their motherboards, another 2 on the keyboard and make backlit keyboard a standard for all of their notebooks. Even their crappy UX series had backlit keyboard, why not the rest of notebooks which all have the same keyboard layout?

 

I received my backlit keyboard today. Since i bought my notebook in germany, it didn't had the qwerty keyboard but some strange qwertz-layout. So i did need a new keyboard anywayz (backlit or not).
I tried to get the backlit to work with my USB-to-Uart connector, but i failed, or not really failed, but the 'main' power it transmits is around 5+V .. so when i connect them to the backlit it light's up nicely.
But if i want to control it by software, i need to connect it to the 'data send/receive' port of the usb-to-uart connector. And that one is only 4.5V .. and the backlit only works very dim and for half the keyboard that way.
So i need to think of something else, till that time, i juist connected the keyboard without the backlit so i finally have the qwerty
And wow, this keyboard types WAY better then the one without the backlit, feels way more solid. It should be a standard.

 

@ ncc1701k

how come u didn't use the ground from the usb?

does it matter which end of the switch you connect the keyboard - terminal to? in other words does the switch also have a - and +?

 

It doesn't matter where you put grounding, all the groundings on the motherboard are connected.
I used the switch on the grounding side because in case it fails (wires get loose etc), the grounding wire won't short out my motherboard like a 5v source would.

 

@ ncc1701k

thanks for the help.

do you think either of these switches will work fine for this mod?

SPST Push On-Push Off Switch - RadioShack.com

SPST 1mS/5VDC Wired Detect Switch - RadioShack.com

if they both will work, which do you recommend?

 

the push on switch is way to big, it's half an inch in diameter.
the detect switch is only a momentary one, it doesn't stay off.
Micro Slide Switch for Novak Tekin Paintball Fan Futaba - eBay (item 250663430697 end time Aug-07-10 22:19:51 PDT)
this would probably work fine if you plan to insert it in your ethernet jack.

 

i plan on fitting it into the kensington lock if possible..

i use ethernet once in a blue moon

how does this look?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062488

 

lol that thing says "heavy duty", so it's probably too big to fit in the lock slot.
it'll probably fit inside the ethernet jack is you trim it a little.
NEW USB 2.0 10/100 TO ETHERNET LAN NETWORK RJ45 ADAPTER - eBay (item 280387638691 end time Aug-15-10 11:40:22 PDT)
just use one of these when the blue moon days come.

 

Interesting thread. Any idea if this mod would work for an EeePC 1201N?

 

Nope I don't think it will work, since this keyboard is 302mm wide, and the 1201N specs say it's 296mm wide.

 

Ah, so Asus does not have any models with backlit keyboards at 296mm?

 

All the backlit keyboard that we've been using are Asus U80 parts, which is a 14-in laptop that they dont really make anymore, so the chances of finding a smaller on is slim.
However, if you're brave enough, you can take the 302 mm backlit keyboard and trim each side by 3mm (which is not that much, just be graceful about your handiwork), it should then work.
Alternatively, you can dissemble the backlit keyboard and take the middle reflecting layer (with the led), trim that a little bit, and see if it would fit in the middle of your keyboard. The only downside for that would be the fact that your keyboard keys are not transparent, so it's wont look as good when its forced lit from the bottom.
Good luck dude.

 

Actually, the 1201 keyboard looks exactly the same as ours

I would be surprised if asus went out of their way to design a smaller keyboard just for the eee1201, seeing how they are using pretty much exactly the same keyboard across all of their 12-14in lines and the keyboard with numpad on all of their 15-18inchers.
As of right now only the G-series have stock backlit keyboard, Asus better step up their game soon and make it standard on all the series.
So Mastershroom, you should just go ahead and buy a backlit keyboard, it'll be a cool experiment to see if it fits.

 

Yeah I looked at the pics... it does look exactly the same. But going by the official specs, the width of the 1201N technically isn't wide enough to fit the 302mm keyboard.

As said above, you could trim the edges to make it fit I guess... but this is all at completely your own risk/expense so if it doesn't work don't blame any of us

 

@SOULSABER :really cool mod,i was eyeing this mod and read almost entire thread replies.

anyway, i wanted to know is there anyway to turn backlit on and off unlike keeping the backlit on for whole time when laptop is on because it is sort of distracting while watching movies or videos.
there is no terminal switch or port on motherboard of UL30vt which can be used to on and off the backlit with using few keys just like this(its not asus-just wanting to give an example?? YouTube - Dell E6400 Backlit Keyboard

 

If you read the entire thread, you would notice that there are currently four methods of turning the lights on and off.
1. Soulsaber's qt110 touch sensor switch
2. cybertim's usb controller switch (not working as planned, but I think he's still trying to figure it out)
3. my switch-in-the-ethernet-port method.
4. find a 5v source on the motherboard that goes offline when the computer is in sleep mode.

take your pick

@mastershroom
btw i found this keyboard for the u20a on asus estore
KEYBOARD 284mm BACKLIGHT(US)
it's a bit smaller than your current one, maybe give this a try?

 

thanks for answering quickly ncc1701k.i am a noob at these electronics stuff.of all of them i think switch in ethernet port method is a bit simpler.i just wanted to know how ll u turn on and off backlit keyboard by this method?the switch is in ethernet port right?so what u got to do ,to off it?

btw finding a 5v source on motherboard that goes offline when pc is in sleep mode wont really help for me coz i need a manual switch that can on and off the backlit keyboard when required in normal pc working mode while watching videos(not in sleep mode) atleast that is my understanding.is there anything else to the 4th option?

 

An update about my usb-uart controller:
I managed to get the normal voltage from the usb-to-uart controller by placing some simple logic to it all (got some aid on a different forum with technical electronic guys).
I did already place my new keyboard in my laptop, and attached two long wires to the keyboard backlit connector and rolled them up in my hdd-bay.
(And before i did this, i hooked it all up to the usb port and it was lit very bright.)
So for testing, i just have to open up my hdd-bay and grab the two wires.

I also managed to make an usb connector (small) that i can put into my usb port - so the setup right now isn't placed in the notebook yet because of the testing. This is how it is now:


But for some reason now the keyboard doesn't lit up so bright.. so i have to check everything once i got the time.

I also made a video about it all working:
YouTube - UL30VT Backlit Keyboard Test

 

@narayanagame
The idea of switch-in-the-ethernet port is to take a physical on/off switch (like the ones found on toys), and put it in the middle of your keyboard light-motherboard circuit. You should be comfortable with precision soldering before doing any of this, considering you just might mess up your motherboard if you dont solder it properly. Just scroll back a couple of pages and you'll see the detailed pic on how to make all the proper connections.

@cybertim,
whoa, you were able to turn up the voltage? How did you manipulate it? Is it software based? If so, then you can program your buttons a bit more and then you can have brightness control. Keeping working man, this is a brilliant mod. You're gonna have to explain how this works in details to us non-EE folks though.

 

If anyone cares... I made a banner on the first post because boredom is incredibly high right now haha.

 

any boards that would fit the ul50vt that are backlit?

 

There is a similar thread in the Acer section. We have been putting a backlit keyboard in the 3820TG. I drew power from the USB 5V@500ma and it works perfectly. The USB is not compromised.

We are working on a mechanical switch that will look factory when installed. What we have come up with is finding a tiny switch that will fit into the hole of the kensington lock. When I wired the USB/KB, I left enough wire to run all the way back to the kensington and back to the KB. It is tied up in the Wifi card compartment for now.


We have been testing different switches and found that the perfect size is 6mm x 3.5mm x 3.5mm. Here is a switch that fits but it is the wrong kind.



So we're still looking for a slide switch that confirms to the above measurements or close and can handle 5V@500ma. I have found one that is 8.5mm long that I think I can adapt. Would rather find a perfect fit. Anybody have a source of very small slide switches (actually would love a rocker but can t find any even close).

Bronsky

Our progress so far: http://forum.notebookreview.com/acer/491169-acer-timelinex-3820tg-backlit-keyboard-mod-7.html

 

What should you do if you break off those little tabs that keep the keyboard down? Those things are not very high quality.

 

I'm very interested in the modification, but i have a few concerns.

1. Where exactly did you attach the ground wire to? Is it that screw thing with the cross on it? the first picture and the later pictures seem to contradict each other.

2. Since i don't know how to solder, is wire glue acceptable and easy to use?

3. Lastly, since the Asus website no longer sells them, would this item on ebay work?

NEW ASUS U80 U80A U80V Series Backlit keyboard Black US - eBay (item 180524358313 end time Aug-22-10 01:37:00 PDT)

Thanks in advance.

 

Nice banner soulsaber, makes this thread seem so legit now.
@ r0b0t c0rpse
I currently use the backlit keyboard from a UX50 for my UL50, but I dont htink Asus makes them anymore. But the G51/71/72/73 keyboard should also fit, you can find them on ebay.

@bronsky
I used a slide switch from a broken old mp3 player, so if you can track one of those down, it can fit easily in the kingston lock hole.


and lastly. @spectrafish
1.ground wire can be attached to any grounding source on the motherboard, they are all interconnected. So all the screws, even the kingston lock slot, is grounded.
2.wireglue is messy and hard to use on tiny connections on the motherboard, so you should really get a solder gun and learn some basic soldering to make this mod work.
3. yes this would work for your ul30/80

 

Thank you for the fast reply.

Can you recommend a soldering iron/kit to buy? How many watts are needed in the iron? Would rosin core solder work?

Do you think this mod is achievable for an absolute beginner? I opened up my keyboard to check the 5v points and they were awfully small... I'm quite afraid of frying the board.

Also, are there any alternatives to soldering that i can use? Would a hot glue gun be conductive enough to use? Any help would be appreciated.

 

a ten dollar soldering gun from walmart should suffice. Just be sure to get the kind with a fine tip.
Glue gun would not work, as it is not electrically conductive at all.
Here's a pretty detailed guide
How To Solder - Soldering Tutorial
practice on some old electronic first. And get a magnifying glass, it might help with visualizing the small connections.

 

Thank you! The guide is very useful.

However, i'm still concerned about the power of the soldering iron. How many watts would be a good amount? Is 15 watts enough or is it too low? Would something like 30watts work better?

 

mine is a 30W one, it works pretty well

 

I used this one: Amazon.com: Weller SP23LK Marksman 25 Watt Soldering Iron Kit: Home Improvement

Weller makes some damn fine soldering irons.

Remember to get solder, a desoldering pump, and a 3rd arm. You could probably get all of this at amazon.com for under $40.

 

hey, i stumbled upon this thread and made an account because i'm a little confused - sorry if this sounds noobish.

The thread is called UL30 backlit keyboard but the OP said to buy a U80 backlit keyboard? Are these two laptop keyboard layouts compatible?

I currently own a UL30A-A2, so would this ebay keyboard be compatible?:
New Original ASUS U80 Series Keyboard Black Backlit US - eBay (item 180535671849 end time Aug-19-10 07:12:53 PDT)

 

Yes, the UL80 and UL30 use the same size keyboard.

 

wow thanks for the quick response mnrbradley!

Also, one more question, in the guide, there was a picture showing the soldering point and a "ground here" arrow pointing at a large screw? What exactly do we do? are we supposed to solder the second gauge on top of that "ground here" point?

 

No, just unscrew the screw a bit, put the wire under the screw, and screw it back in.

 

The "ground here" point is where it needs to be grounded... so you can solder a wire to the ground point on the yellow ribbon and then just wrap the other end of the wire around the screw and it would be good enough.

Hopefully this visual makes it clear of what i'm trying to get at:


Good luck to you if you are going to attempt this

 

haha thanks, i think this is all starting to make sense. and just a quick question, what exactly is the grey part in your diagram and why can't it touch the yellow area?

also, what kind of wire gauge should we use? there are many different gauge amps. Can you link me to a viable option I can purchase from ebay or another online store? Thank you so much saulsaber and ,mrbradley, you guys have been a real help

 

The grey part is the rubber isolation of the wire, and yellow part if the copper grounding spot on the motherboard. You want to strip the rubber isolation at the tip of the wire so that it can make full contact with the grounding.
As for wires, this 30 gauge should be fine, since you're only running a .8W keyboard light.
50-Ft. Blue Insulated Wrapping Wire (30AWG) - RadioShack.com