Ultraportable/Thin-Light dilemma

Let me start by saying I currently have an ASUS W7J - and I LOVE IT. I even got a white one with nifty asian characters added on the keys.

specs:
1.83 Core 2 Duo
1GB RAM
100GB HD
128 MB dedicated graphics
13.3" reflective screen
DVD multi burner drive
XP Professional
4lbs

I use it constantly! It is amazing for what I do. On a very regular schedule I am all around Boston between work, home, pharmacy school, music recording sessions and the quite random. I do everything except hardcore gaming on it.

THE PROBLEM:

The W7J runs insanely hot; better stated I get arthritic type joint pain from its use and I don't even have arthritis! I've never had this problem with any computing device before. I have had the unit for almost 1 year, and I thought the issue would resolve by summer. It's like a sheet of concrete that the heat and cold from many seasons of expanding and contracting cause the concrete to crack... the surrounding air, even in summer, is such a different temperature piping through the keyboard and fan that aching pain lasting hours is achieved after only minutes of use. It certainly is amazing that they can fit so much tech in such a portable package including dedicated graphics, but I am unable to cope with its daily use. I currently use a USB keyboard and mouse when I can, though these diminish the portability when always necessary.

I am most often on foot going moderately long distances on varying modes of transportation. The laptop needs to be easily concealable (currently a Gravis Staple backpack is PERFECT!) and of course light. Aesthetics matter, but functionality and the ability to to perform applications and multitasking from multimedia to DVD burning to occasional photoshopping is important. The laptop needs to be this (4lbs) or better. The screen size is very important: 12 inches is too difficult and straining on my eyes for daily use but 13.3 and possibly larger are all game.

I have gone through 2 Sony SZ(240 and 360)'s that grossed me out with their -eat our slutty promo bogware or else- attitude. (Sony doesn't include the software CD's and includes an INCOMPLETE driver listing on their site). I wonder if they are cutting costs or fulfilling an advertising contract? The SZ's had to go not because of this, but because they produced the creepy electrical leaking/shock that you can read about on many forums including this one. Very disappointing : Very bad experience. 2 in a row.

I know that the 13.3 inch dell sz-style machine has been announced which may be something. I am interested yet averse to mac products from their witnessed ability to not play well with others or FUNCTIONALLY support windows apps.

Sales prove 13.3" lappies are hot, so I assume we'll see more introduced; is there anything so portable and powerful on the horizon or currently available?

Thanks for reading and responding.

jean

 

Have you cleaned the insides? There may be a huge accumulation of dust. In addition, have you tried undervolting it and using Speedfan to check on the temperatures?

 

rmclock is your friend

 

I downloaded Rmclock and Speedfan and am unsure what to do with them. The general temps in Speedfan are around 141 degrees F during mild web browsing. Is this ok or crazy? I noticed the underclock option in speedfan but it dropped the warning that switching clock speeds can damage the system? hmm.

 

use rmclock and uninstall speedfan. rmclock tells you everything from temperature to battery life.

once rm clock is installed go to "Profile"

you should see profile section at the top, choose performance on demand (my way of doing it) for all four profiles.

After that check the highest multiplier only and click apply. (look for Frequency ID 0 is lowest, etc.)

Expand profile and you will see a section called "Performance on demand"(select it)

check USE P-state Transitions for both AC Power and Battery, scroll down to the highest multiplier that you chose at first and check it. then click apply. remember do this for both ac power and battery.


now run ORTHOS and go back to "Profile". (plug your a/c charger in)

every 10 mins or so select one VID lower then before. after you find the lowest VID (when ORTHOS fail, move it one or two VID up) *remember to click apply*

test for 12-24 hours for stability.

after you find your lowest VID for your highest multiplier, now its time to work with your lowest multiplier. (your lowest multiplier should be able to run at the lowest VID which is .950 i believe.) but don't take my word for it.

remember if your testing your lowest multiplier, uncheck your highest. go back to "performance on demand" and click the PST thingy or else it won't work.

sorry this might be the word explaining ever!

 

thanks doode! i'll try this out and report back.

jjjjjjjj

 

if you have any problem just pm me

 

Can running at a lower VID damage a processor over time? How much more battery life can you get from doing this?

 

no, it will not. if anything, it should give your processor a longer life as it reduces the heat it produces, and heat is probably one of the main killer of computer components.

rmclock does not always improve battery life. some notebooks already have the lowest voltage value for the lowest multiplier, and since most people use their notebooks most when it is on the lowest multiplier (i.e. light load), it will give no difference in battery life for surfing/word processing...though load battery life will probably be better.