Dell XPS M1330 - nVidia GeForce 8400M GS - Copper Mod

Yup same condition, in room that doesn't have Air Conditioning, same program running,...and i have another experienced, nvidia driver 186.81 is cooler than
195.62

 

Just a quick question, would putting a penny in between the die and the heatsink instead of the pad work on the 1340? or would it be too thick/thin etc.

just a thought.

 

I had a hard time finding the right copper and for a decent price. I took some advice from other members and called Ben Bridge Jewelers and they fabricated a piece of 925 Silver (cost 20USD total) in the proper dimensions listed in the m1330 mod guide. I followed the guide exactly minus using 925 Silver instead of Copper and used IC Diamond-Seven Carat Diamond Extreme Performance Thermal Compound (found it for a good price on ebay). When playing COD MW2 on my M1330 my GPU temp was around 85-89C and now it's running around 65-69C and the fan is not running nearly as much. I also drilled around 30 of small holes following the precuts in the metal of the plastic panel covering the heatsink,GPU,CPU.

 

mmm ...
did you opened the back cover to blow coolingpad's fans directly to the mobo?

 

Nope, i used entire back cover as DELL gave me, one thing that changed is thermalpad (i changed it with copper of course)...and i used OCZ Freeze (maybe there's a little impact).

 

i am tembong and i did coppermod to.


good job

 

What thermal compound is best?:

Artic silver 5

AIT Cool silver

OCZ Freeze extreme

 

I don't know whether one of those are greater than the other, but i simply know that OCZ Freeza is not electrical conductor, so i choose OCZ Freeze...

maybe this could help you choose thermal paste, there is a thermal paste in the spoilers, just opened it, that based on the grade of thermal paste...

http://www.kaskus.us/showthread.php?t=2749211

 

Thanks Admin/Mods for removing the hi-jacked post..

 

I'm so sorry BlackRussian and other member in this forum, i don't have any will to hijack this threads, Thanks to warning me, i really appreciate it, i hope i can get help soon =) Peace

 

Also when you post words in another language as you did in some of your posts, you must provide an English translation. Please read the forum rules.

 

No worries as you understand the rules now , otherwise things can get out of hand. Have a good day!

Some found AS5 very good as did I but after about 3-4 months I went for Artic Cooling MX-2 and never looked back..

 

I found this:

Arctic Cooling 4g MX-3 MX3

I think it is the better, right?

 

That's very good heard good reports on this one.

 

woah I think ic diamond 7 carrat is the best

 

Nice I will buy that, still looking for copper sheet in Ebay

 

IC Diamond or MX-3 ????

 

IC Diamond 7 Carat:
Key Specifications

Thermal Conductance: 4.5 W/m-K (data acquired with an ASTM D - 5470 thermal interface test instrument)
Thermal Resistance: 0.25oC-cm2/W@ 100 µ BLT
Average Particle Size: <40 µ maximum particle diameter
Compliancy: RoHS Compliant.

MX-3
This new compound is composed of carbon microparticles which lead to an extremely high thermal conductivity – 8.2 W/mK. It guarantees that heat from the CPU or GPU can be dissipated quickly and efficiently.

I think MX-3 is better or not?

 

Depends what standard/method you use.. one man's 3.8W/mk could be another man's 8.2W/mk

 

Woahhh Im looking for Info, there are a lot of people with IC Diamond 7 and other with AC MX-3. I dont know what are better, still very confused or there (internet) are people talking and dont know nothing. One of two have to be the best of two. Also found Shin-Etsu X23-7783D is better but is a rare compound...

 

Like I said AC still using it along with my heat sink mod...ICD7 has very good feedback in the past since I have not used it cant comment on it.
Say $20 all round for the both if your not sure is still a good buy..

 

Ok, and I can prevent it from erasing Intel logo? It not need to be remplaced every 6 months like AS 5 like I heard?

 

Still not responses, I will go with the IC Diamond 7, After readings it appear to be the best.

still waiting for my reply about copper sheets

 

Ask K-TRON for copper sheets/shims:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=422749

 

Yeah, I check it.

Still looking for tips about what thermal compound use. I think there not are a lot of difference between one to another, (Only 1C or less in some tests)
So im looking for durability and ease of use because i never aply thermal compound

 

If you're spending that much time and effort (not to mention the dozen posts...) then I hope it's at least for your CPU...

 

Up until now I've used Arctic Silver 5, but recently I switched to Arctic Cooling MX-3 as it appears to be better, at least according to some reviews. Applying thermal paste is not hard, just spread it evenly in a thin layer, there are lot's of videos on youtube about that.

 

Thankyou guys. Sorry about the dozen post (and you dont know how many webpage I enter searching for info). Im studing Enginner, so I always like to look all the specs and how it works, etc...

 

I saw Blackrussian mod and looks great, other mods and im thinking to make my mod with heat sink. Still looking for info, try to use thermodinamics and all.

 

Here is a good link with heat sinks http://www.coolinnovations.com/

 

I can put a thermal tape from the copper to the metal case?? So heat transfer from the cooling system to all the back metal plate and cool more?
Anyone do this?

 

The Heatsinks looks cool, I dont saw it before. Still looks big to use on m1330

 

These are within the correct height for you http://www.coolinnovations.com/products/heatsinks/surface-mount-devices anything else you'll need to adjust to suit...
Max height from the base original heatsink (on cooling unit) around GPU is 7mm but but I would go 6 or 6.5mm. If I stand correct you could use 12mm 13mm?? high heatsink formed in an n shaped type profile fitted on top of your cooling unit around the area of the GPU but some handy work will need to be done...to cut away a path form the cooling unit to sit in..
I may under take this option later on (JUST FOR SOMETHING TO DO) as I have 2 spare C.U...

 

That sounds good DIY. But if I want to put 1 or 2 heatsinks without modify the current Cooling? I also saw that the more hot proccesor (GPU) is conected with the stupid blue thermal pad and then with Aluminium? so the copper mod help and thermal paste but when the heat go outside the copper, it ecounters with aluminium. So not a great cooling after all for the GPU. You know normally my GPU runs in 71C (I live in Puerto Rico so its hot here almost all year). When I use games the temp (GPU) can go up to 90C but the CPU temp only reach 60C. If the temp continue increasing the GPU clocks down again (to prevent damage) but it make the game very laggy. The Coppermod woul down 10C that it is great but If I can down a little more is better. Finally, the cooling of M1330 is crap in a thermodinamic point of view. Maybe the enginner desing all the mobo and the PC without looking on the cooling. And finally they make a "remedy" cooling for the PC that works but is limited to normal use (not gaming). So why they put a nvidia GPU to choose and to choose fast proccesors it the cooling system not is going to work well when this things get load. Maybe the computer is made to be used in North pole only or to tie the customers to warranty. A normal pc need to last 3 or more years, not 6 months. I hope that this cooling mods helps.

 

This is true but if you have some idea you can keep the cooling down on both ends CPU/GPU.
The other method is to have a dedicated cooling units for both GPU & CPU. There was a heatsink with fan plus thermal switch that would sit nice on the gpu within our rigs have to hunt down the source once again and modding the tail end of the original M1330 cooling unit to carter for the remaining processors all this would need adding pillar's to the PCB to keep the cooling units in place.
All the idea's are there is how far one wants to under take prototype testing..
This is way I went with my baby heat sink mod..

 

yeah. We can make the cooling a lot better with mods, I dont have the warranty so that not is my preocupation. If I can make a good DIY (Like manufactured) so it not have side effect, only good cooling. That is why im thinking a lot of that because I use a lot the PC, I only want to expand the durability.

 

all you guys looking for copper for this mod - I went to my local hardware store n bought a small copper elbow for $2, cut it to size with a hacksaw, polished it up with a piece of wet n dry sandpaper, installed it with 'noname' thermal paste from Jaycar and my temps are now down by 14C - took maybe 10 mins, hope this helps

 

Well I bought the copper shimps from K-Tron and the termal paste from Heatsink Factory. I just not make a DIY shim because I dont think that I can make a nearly 100% flat shim. Is veryyyy dificult to have a 100% flat shim. And the flat shim that you can buy not is really flat, in Atoms view, the surface is like it have a lots of mountains, that is because we use thermal paste, to fill the spaces between the copper "mountains". If we can make a cold bounding between the copper shim and the GPU, CPU we have almost 100% transfer of heat but that not is a option. Im still thinking if we use some polishing product like blue magic to "cut down" that mountains more, (Is impossible to make a atom flat shim). The problem is, that work or instead make more mountains.

BlackRussian you found this???:

BlackRussian:
The other method is to have a dedicated cooling units for both GPU & CPU. There was a heatsink with fan plus thermal switch that would sit nice on the gpu within our rigs have to hunt down the source once again and modding the tail end of the original M1330 cooling unit to carter for the remaining processors all this would need adding pillar's to the PCB to keep the cooling units in place.

 

I found a discusion of controlling the Fan speed in this thread. Still Im a little lost, how to make that. I try with 2 programs, still the fan cannot be controlled.

 

I use 18kfangui.

 

I have that. I8kfanGUI but I never can make the proper manual control because it only have CPU temps and my CPU runs cooler compared to GPU.

Like now: CPU: 43C Idle and GPU: 64C Idle

 

Yes well, that will change once you stop worrying about how smooth your copper shim is and how effective your thermal paste is and get the mod done

 

Yeah not more problem with the fan.

Still I think to make a bigger mod in near future. The temp drops 15C IDLE and 20C LOAD with copper mod. With overclocking I need a better cooling, like 30C drop in Load.

Ex. Down from 100C to 70C in load. Maybe a heatsink for the GPU with its fan. I have a micro fan for Electric radio control cars that maybe can be used. Still looking for ideas but I dont see anyone making betters coolings.

 

Mod done with metalcutoff shim artic mx-2 (cleaned with articlean). Superb results

BEFORE MOD CPU/GPU FULL LOAD

82/100

AFTER MOD CPU/GPU

72/73

Just a few things:

1/ you need to bend your heatsink outwards in the GPU side, cause your CPU temp will be better.

2/ Don´t spread too much compound, half rice grain for xPU and a grain for the heatsinks.

3/Follow this guide exactly. I mean excatly, don´t put your "touch" because the results won´t be better

4/ Mx-x is better than Artic Silver because is non conductive.

5/ Zalman 1000 cooler gives you 4 degrees less and XPS36 overclocking-undervolting guide a couple more

Few questions

1/ I have 3-5 degrees differences between cores at iddle, but just 1 degree when loaded Normal?

2/At full load GPU and CPU work at the same temp. around 71º, when CPU gets hot GPU does the same, but when Gpu is getting hotter Cpu is not , f.i. watching movies. Air flow design?

3/ Copper-Copper instead Al-Cu contact in GPU side would be better?. We can try a new mod

Thx, it´s a useful thread.

 

When I go with a better mod (in some way better) better cooling but a big mod, need tools, etc. Lucky my Father have a lot of tools. The mod not is going to be easy, Cutting a part of the cooling system, and put a Copper heatsink in the GPU. It will be linked with the cooling system. So finally it will be the same cooling system but with a better heatsink made of copper, so no Aluminium between copper. And if can be made, a small fan taking heat out from GPU. One of the challenge is the small area to work. Only really small thing can be used. The other is connecting the fan to a power source.

The Copper MOD is a really good idea. Is very easy to make, Not need to modifiy nothing, only take out a blue pad and put a copper shim. Instant result.

I always think that dell put those blue pad to fry the GPU and tie the clients to warranty programs. Many dell laptops always have problem with GPU and overheating. that cannot be coinsidence. I hope that in the future the laptops can be upgraded like desktops.

 

I think Cu-Cu contact in GPU would be a big improvement, but it seems pretty dif. to me. I think this mod it´s easy enough and gives good results, but if you put pressure and load in your laptop, it´s still hot, or at least noisy, cause managing fan by yourself always can drop the temp a little bit more. Not perfect but ... it was worst before the mod . Regards and good luck

 

Yeah without the mod the PC gets pretty hot. I was playing Just cause Demo without OC and the PC only gets 75C and 71C can get before in normal use. my bestidle temp is 53C but I change the drivers, etc.. the temp now is in 61C normal use. I check and is because the clocks vary from 129/100 to full 400/600, I dont know why, with 129/100 is sufficient in normal use (without videos)

 

Are you talking about 167.45 drivers from laptopvideo2go?. Are they the coolest ones or just it´s a matter of numbers?. I mean perhaps temps in that modded drivers are not accurate or you can really feel the difference?. Thx.

Another trick,




More airflow, not a big issue but feels a little bit cooler , but stressing core with orthos gromac test for 15 min, and 3 xPU ARE 82 degrees Too much?

 

I dont think that 82F is too hot. I get 100C before mod, still nothing bad happend, only GPU underclock itself for protection. Just from now not let the temp go beyond 90C, still its rare with mod go to 90C if not overclocked.

 

http://forums.laptopvideo2go.com/topic/16311-v16745-windows-vista-32bit-dell/? DRIVER

http://forums.laptopvideo2go.com/topic/16679-v16928-windows-vista-32bit-nvidia inf file

Try these drivers, best i´ve ever test, and coolest. Just download them and also inf file and put it in extracted directory.

And it´s not placebo, cause i´ve tried them without copper mod and top temp is 102, so not showing wrong temps. Anyway, my idle gpu temp is 55, with other driver is 59, playing movie was 63, now is 59 deg.


Final result after all, more than good. Thx to everybody