Dunno, you probably tried it. remove the ram and SSD and see if you can get a flicker of life. Otherwise you're going to be packing it up up and sending for service, wherever that may be.
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Jesus. Is it possible that it could simply be a defective battery? Bc as I previously posted... It was only charging while it was on... And after a week of that happening now it's dead? Idk man. Such inconveniences. Wondering if to buy a new battery and charger and hope that will fix it.
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It will work on mains only. What happens if you push the battery button on the side?
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Nothing happens. No lights.
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Have you got a multimeter to test the PSU?
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Yes, but exactly how do I do that? I'm not sure where to place the prongs? And also the battery was above 80% the last time I used it....I don't think it's dead.
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one touching the inner contact and one on the outer, sounds like it's fubar though.
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Fubar?
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I feel stupid now. You made me laugh tho.
Anyway, just for the sake of updating this issue, I got in contact with Dell technical support and they said to send some personal info and they'll see what they can do. Awaiting a reply from them currently.
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I hope they sort it without it costing you a fortune in shipping!AkshayP likes this.
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hello, anyone having slow ssd iops like me?
Pls help
https://flic.kr/p/FxxF3dLast edited: Apr 21, 2016 -
Hi, I realised that I'd been having problems with my FPS in games which led me to believe that the 750M was not running right.
Do you know what "code 43" means? I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling Nvidia drivers to no avail. Would a format work?
Just hoping this doesn't mean my graphics card is dead. How do I find that out?Attached Files:
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Download both intel and nvidia drivers ready then run this video driver cleaner for nvidia and intel http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html
once you are cleaned up reinstall the drivers and see if that solves it. -
I attempted to manually remove and reinstall NVidia drivers without success but then out of pure curiosity I followed someone else's suggestion on another forum with the same code 43 issue, by removing the battery and holding the power down for a few seconds. This along with disabling and re-enabling from the Device Manager seems to have rectified the situation.
Fingers crossed there's no damage and it will remain working. Thanks again!SDeP58 likes this. -
I have two minor faults that have gradually been getting worse on my XPS 15:
1) Left-shift key does always register. If you hit the key at the edge, rather than right in the centre, it doesn't always register the shift, which makes typing somewhat annoying (numbers instead of symbols etc).
2) Screen is wobbly.
For (1), I've removed the key to remove anything stuck underneath, but that hasn't helped. The mechanism seems fine.
For (2), I opened up the machine. The hinge attached to the base is solid. The problem is the bottom of the display which surrounds the hinge - it doesn't seem to be well attached to the hinge, so it has a lot of "give" (i.e. movement) when it's not moving the hinge at all. Looking at the manual, it seems that it's all part of the display assembly, and the only thing that can be done is replace the entire display assembly.
Anyone else had (1) or (2), and if so, anyone managed to find a way to fix them?
Thanks!Attached Files:
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Probably time for a new keyboard, shame the one I had on eBay has sold or I would have done you a deal.
As for the screen you may need to strip the bolts and washers off, clean them up and put it back together? -
Thanks. Unless you had a UK keyboard, that wouldn't have helped. I don't think I'll spend any more on this - if I find it too troublesome, I'll get an external keyboard. Just wondering whether others had had that.
On the hinge, from the manual, it's inside the display assembly, and so there are no instructions to pull it apart, so I'm a bit wary about breaking something if I try, as I have no idea whether it's clipped, glued etc. With my old Thinkpad, you can buy replacement hinges - that doesn't seem to be the case with the Dell. -
i noticed from the razer forum that the razer core works with the xps 1550 out of the box immediately.
it doesnt score as well as the razer laptop so its needing some optimization and it took the reviewer some time to get the divers right
but it works right now. running witcher 3 at uhd ultra settings.
im excited. i actually want something smaller that will take the nano sized cards -
the only test was with a 970 gtx but im waiting to see what a 1070 does.
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Do you know whether the 9550 keyboard is compatiblr with the 9530? I've never liked the font on the 9530 keyboard, so as I'm going to have to replace it, I could replace it with the 9550 keyboard.
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Thanks for the response. That's a shame. I'm going to try the single key route first to see if that does the trick, before replacing the whole thing.
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The key is just a cap that pushes the switch so I doubt it will do anything.
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Hi guys, this might be a long shot but I've run into a really strange problem. After refreshing my PC because it was running slowly, I realised that every time I close the laptop lid now it will just crash and shut down, never sleep. I've tried resetting back to the factory image of Windows 8 but had no joy so far, the problem seems to be a persistent one. All the power management setting are back to their defaults, I've tried updating all the drivers on the system to the Dell approved ones as well as deleting all the unnecessary Dell software.
I've never had this problem before and it's really strange that it's brought on now by resetting the PC. I am unfortunately out of warranty, so any advice on how to manage this would be really welcome! -
Do a clean install via a USB drive.
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Thanks for the quick reply! Would you be able to help me with how you'd recommend I'd go about doing that? I don't think Dell supplied the laptop with any recovery media. And during the wipe is it ok to overwrite the recovery partition installed on the SSD?
Edit: as some extra info, I've come to realise the laptop can't enter sleep mode (even if initiated by pressing power button or selecting sleep from the start menu).Last edited: Jun 16, 2016 -
You could well be right. I think the problem is with the plastic cup that sits under the key - I think it's a little torn and so when they key is pressed down, it's not always pressing the switch contact. The seller indiates that they key comes with the cup. However, I don't see how I'd replace it, as it looks stuck to the switch itself.
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They cut it out, yes really!
So you go to cut it out and cut through the traces wiping out the entire keyboard, clever eh
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You should find the recovery media on the support page, if not download it from microsoft and download the drivers before you zap it, and yes delete all partitions.
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Hello everyone.
The warranty expired two months ago, and I'm interested in extending it for at least 2 years.
Has anyone done this? And how much did it cost in your country?
How is it done?
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We can't tell you what the price will be especially as you let the warranty lapse. Phone them or email them.
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So, if I'm understanding your response correctly, you think that's a bad idea, and I should replace the entire keyboard.
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It really is up to you if you want to go ahead, if he is charging a couple of quid for a key and the cap it may be worth a go but personally I have never in all my years tried it as I would rather chuck £45 at a genuine new keyboard and nail it 1st time.
If you are going down this path you could try taking the key off and inspecting for issues, it could be something daft like it not being clicked onto the metal guide properly, failing that if you can reproduce it with the key off and just pushing down the membrane then an option would be to cut a L shape very carefully into the membrane making sure you cut the part laying flat so as not to fek up the spring action( I would use a pin to lift the membrane off the board to avoid cutting any tracks and slice into the lifted part) and clean the contact points with some rubbing alcohol and a bit of lens cleaning paper (something 101% lint free)
You can use something like micropore tape to hold the cut in place after but this really is getting into bodgit territory.
FYI if you do change the keyboard you have to reuse the mylar backing from the old keyboard, Dell engineers always rip it and bin it then you get backlight bleed!.Ashers likes this. -
Thanks for all the advice. I had looked at the key, and managed to snap one of the plastic connectors to the hinge mechanism in the process, so it's now loose! So, as you say, I can go down the key single key route with the risk of damaging the keyboard, or replace the keyboard but then I could end up risk damaging something more important (like tearing the motherboard connector or something like that). I've repaired my thinkpad before but that seems a lot easier to pull apart than the Dell, in which you need to practically remove everything before you can get at the keyboard!
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to be fair you have to remove everything for a keyboard swap. If you have the right tools you will be fine.
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Has anyone found a decent solution to the USB connection problems on the XPS 9530???
After maybe 4 MOBO replacements, and various other trials, I thought that using a USB hub is the solution, but now the problem is back again. Most USB sticks and smartphones get disconnected all the time, making it unusable.
Has anyone tried a more advanced USB HUB maybe, and not a self-powered one like the one I'm using? -
There's a thread dedicated to problem where I discovered that switching to dedicated graphics solves the problem, at least for me and the few others that tried it. I also found that high quality 1ft USB cables helped. Give it a go and see if it works.
Best of luck!
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Thanks. Can you point me out to the thread you mentioned?
Actually I have a Precision M3800 motherboard now with the Nvidia Quadro. I hope this workaround works. -
So, it is possible to replace the cup under the key. I pulled off the torn old one, scraped off the remaining rubber (of the old cup) that was stuck to the membrane surface, to make the membrane surface relatively clean (making sure I didn't damage the contacts). I then (with a very small amount of glue) glued the replacement cup to the membrane. It's now working OK. If I run into more problems, I'll probably replace the keyboard, but that saved me from having to pull the PC to pieces.
It has to be said, though, that the keyboard was never that great. I find that if I tap the keys at the bottom left hand corner of a key (rather than in the centre), they don't always register.
Thanks again for your advice!GoNz0 likes this. -
Great. Just what I needed. I have started getting "charging adapter not recognized" without any visible damage to my 2 year old adapter and it is throttling the beep out of my laptop now. I'm worried that the connector port in the machine might be damaged and not the charging adapter itself but I don't have any other charger to test this out. Has anyone faced this issue?
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Well it will be one or the other and no way to know without swapping parts. New psu 1st but the charging socket may be cheap for 3rd party ebay special. Not hard to swap.
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Anyone updated the Anniversary update on Windows 10? Any feedback?
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Yes i updated yesterday. no problems, needed to reinstall Intel graphic drivers and the wlan. I do have some problems with the touchpad after update, it doesnt feel responsive. I reinstalled the Dell touchpad drivers and updated the Synaptic drivers but it still feels diffrent.
KamaL likes this. -
Does anyone have a problem with the touchpad, seems like there are a glitch in the left klick area and not as firm as the right klick area, irretating noise everytime i let go of the touchpad from two finger scrolling etc.
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My machine seems ok and the touchpad works as it did before the update.
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Hi does anyone have the driver to MaxxAudio Pro? Thanks
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Is it likely that Dell will update the top-of-the line specs like processor and graphic card with a XPS 15 R2 by the end of the year ?
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no...
XPS 15 (Haswell) Owner's Lounge
Discussion in 'Dell XPS and Studio XPS' started by mark_pozzi, Oct 23, 2013.
