XPS 15 9560 owners thread.

In practce, 20% "overprovisioned" and unformatted, and merely not filling it up completely is a very very small difference if any. But yeah, pretty much any SSD which is completely full will perform at least modestly worse, and will wear quicker. To what degree varies by SSD model, and there is always some level of reserved capacity built into the drive.

Oddly, the Bluetooth no longer shows up in the quick wireless settings/action center. I actually didn't see whether my install ever had it. OTOH, the Bluetooth settings in the main settings appear, and it seems to work -- it shows up in device manager. I actually never checked on whether the Bluetooth worked when I had the killer card; I use it that rarely.

 

In windows its Quiet Hours feature.

 

Personally, I am really happy with my machine. It can really take me through a day of work with a single charge. Also, the screen still amazes me. I stopped using my desktop for photography, as I found my little XPS much more accurate.

I am only a bit concerned with the quality of the plastic material around the screen and the main body of the laptop. I am one of the most protecting users out there, yet, I found some signs of wear, including really small scratches. I think, from the charging cable rubbing against the body. A bit of a let down, as I try to keep items as mint as possible. Mainly, to make future sales the easiest possible.

 

that doesn't even come close... on latitudes it just appears like the laptop is dead... not even charging light...

Sent from my SM-G900FD using Tapatalk

 

No this doesn't have a magic button to do that, probably because they have a light built into the charging tip that's bright enough to burn your retina out at night.

 

I HATE that light on the cable. The "slimline" 7.4mm cables with the bright blue light were bad enough, but the current generation of 7.4mm adapters have a white light which is about equally bad. It's so bright that it needs either a super-heavy tape (electrical or duct, which comes off sticky; not recommended) or multiple layers of a cleaner tape (blue painters is the best I've found, although regular masking tape or address labels aren't bad) to get the brightness down to a level where it's tolerable in a room I'm going to sleep in.

OTOH, it's not like it's that new of an issue; same brick on the prior-generation models back to at least the M3800/9530.

 

just use piece of insulating tape to cover this light.
You can easy reduce intensity of it (and optionally change color)

 

Well, returned my MacBook pro 15 after 2 days and went back to the XPS 15. sup everyone.

 

Is it possible for you (and others who have the bluetooth working fine) to check if you have the same settings in the following things?

• On BIOS, under the System settings (overview), at the bottom I have two fields, Wireless and Bluetooth. The Bluetooth fields says not available.
• On Action Center I don't have a Bluetooth icon. It just have a tile that says "Connect".
• On Settings -> Devices, I have a subsection called "Bluetooth & Other devices", but I don't have a toggle to turn Bluettoth On/Off. I just have a + sign to add a Bluetooth device and it gives an error when I try to connect something.
• Finally, no Bluetooth shows on Device Manager and there is no one hidden. I tried to add a legacy device, but there is no driver for Bluetooth.

I downloaded the most recent drivers from Intel (19.60), but while the wireless ones seems to be correctly installed, when I try to install the drivers for Bluetooth, the installation does nothing at all.

Do you have any suggestions about how I can proceed from here?

 

Why do I find this funny what happened?

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

 

Well it's a 3.3k computer with less functionality and performance than a 1k PC. They even locked the voltage on the 7920hq so it can't be tweaked

 

The CPU in the MacBook is more powerful than the one in the XPS. The only thing that is better on the XPS is the GPU.

And what do you mean about less functionality? The MacBook has exactly the same (even more if you count the 4 full speed thunderbolt 3 ports) than the XPS.

Perhaps it's just better for you to just build your own PC and forget a laptop altogether. It seems that there isn't a laptop that would suit your needs...

 

Glad to see you saw sense and came back from the turtle neck crew.

If you can't see it in the BIOS you have a defective card, you may be able to reinsert it to see if it is a bad connection otherwise you're sool.

 

No such problems. Please noticed that the 8265 has reversed antennas compared to the Killer NIC and that you of course need to install the Intel drivers.

 

I now have to enter a new finger print every week to keep it working. It this really a Windows 10 problem or is it a bad finger print reader?

 

The CPU is more powerful, but it can't be used due to throttling.

 

I now have to enter a new finger print every week to keep it working. It this really a Windows 10 problem or is it a bad finger print reader?

Well, it depends on how much load you put on it and how long. And the XPS15 (and all other normal laptops) have the same problem.

 

Sounds like a bad fingerprint reader.

It happened during a 5 minute light gaming session. The difference between the XPS 15 is that you can fix it with both software and hardware mods. Apple denies you the ability to overcome their poor decisions.

 

Let's not start about all the poor decisions Dell makes...

 

Yeah, the first time I installed the thing with the antennas reversed, but then I changed them but the problem remains the same. I will try to boot the PC without the adapter and then put everything together again to see if anything changes on the BIOS and it detects the Bluetooth. Do you confirm that on your BIOS settings you have something different than "(none)" on the Bluetooth option?

EDIT: Booted this without WLAN and BIOS recognized that there was no device attached (both wireless and bluetooth). Then I put everything in place, but it only recognized the wireless. I have to do this test again with the Killer. The last version of the BIOS is 1.3.3, correct?

 

At risk of pointing out the obvious.

The cards broken.

Otherwise BIOS would see the Bluetooth.

Assuming it is an eBay buy and you have nothing else to test it in I would start the exchange procedure.

 

That was my original thought also although not sure how likely it would be that BT was broken but not WiFi.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

Yes, 1.3.3 Firmware is the latest system software I had updated it this week.

On another note, I performed a repaste today with IC Diamond 7... HOLY BALLS, load temps on GPU are down by between 9-11C.. 77C seems to be the throttle point? As for whatever reason the GPU usage along with game FPS fell like a rock and remained stable at 77C. Now after the repaste the highest I've seen is 68C (GTA 5 1080p MAX settings ~60FPS), which is amazing as that even leaves some room for a slight OC.

CPU temps are decreased as well but not as drastically as the GPU. I've seen somewhere around a 5-8C temp drop on maximum load. There was ZERO throttling here before, as the max temp was around 82-83C under Linpack/AIDA64. Now we're looking at around upper 70's max load which is incredible to me. I've not fine tuned the config completely yet, but my chip is also running with a -125mV undervolt on the CPU/cache, and -100mV on IGP. Funny enough, my 7700HQ was stable at -200mV under AIDA64 bench + 4K video stream, but as soon as I concluded my evalutation and closed all the applications I got a BSOD. At first I was puzzled, but quickly drew the realization that that -200mV sticks to all c-States. So even when the chip naturally down clocks and sets it idle voltage (?600mV?) that -200mV also applies making it WAY too low. So again, Stable at load -200mV, but any drop or change in processor voltage/state will nuke the chips stability.

Lastly, I wrote to the UEFI using the Firmware IFR table via a GRUB boot drive with Setup_var commands and enabled the SpeedShift on a hardware level. Means no more throttlestop, or having to manually write to MSR. For those of you interested in making the SST setting more aggressive (TS uses a scale of 0-256), you can do this by manually editing the power plan in the registry in Windows. This way there isn't 20 programs running on startup making these edits when Windows can do them all for you.

BY THE WAY, WATCH THE CORNERS as you open the machines aluminum panel, the underside is not beveled and VERY SHARP. I managed to cut my finger open sliding my finger under the panel in efforts to pry it up.

 

I have a question. I've been mostly following these threads but some of it goes beyond the scope of my use case.

After applying a kryonaut repaste, undervolt, and perhaps VRM pad, are the i7 machines able to generally able to play demanding games without throttling? It's the only tough use case I have beyond normal work uses. If it matters I will be playing in 17-20 degrees Celsius ambient temps (Canadian here we keep houses cold)

 

Absolutely in every sense yes. I have to admit, it must be a 95:5 ratio of people that actually say "My device works perfectly and has no issues." The people with problems will always have a much more proactive and louder voice. Not saying the problems don't exist at all; just saying don't let these issues worry you if you are in love with this machine. If you got for my configuration (4K, 7700HQ, 1050, 16GB, 512GB NVME) and this is the build quality/form factor you're looking for you'll be extremely happy. Personally, I REALLY wanted a Razer Blade with the 1060, and I even purchased one.. But it was broken in shipping and ended up going for a local deal on a new XPS 9560. I'm in love with this machine. Sure it's not a 1060, but the 1050 really is enough for 1080p. Temps are astounding too, as I posted above the CPU never throttled for me under synthetic load, and games are much less than a synthetic load. After repaste you should never have to deal with throttling in any case outside of ridiculous simultaneous CPU/GPU stress tests. Maybe it's just me who's really happy with this machine, but that's my 2c.

I'd still like to mod the BIOS so I can up the TDP on the 1050 and remove the Throttle Temp to something more around 95c. But other than that, pretty much perfect. Having the ability to get a TB3 adapter and a GTX 1080 is also a future plan of mine.

 

Thanks for letting me know dude. I'm looking at same specs except fhd (too much of a pleb to benefit from 4K and I value battery life highly).

People have me all scared that after tweaks it grinds to a screeching halt on all gaming and benchmark scenarios.

Is IC diamond paste liquid metal or normal?

 

You're definatly welcome!

IC Diamond is an extremely viscus normal paste. You can literally touch it with your finger and it only deforms the paste without getting on your hand.
As you mentioned, even I have no use for 4K; practically everything is scaled down to 1080p (Except games that run fine, L4D2, anything before 2012ish I leave on 4K). Even windows has to be scaled to 2x to be realistically usable without your face inside the screen as 1:1 4K is ant sized text.

 

Interesting... Most folks around here found that the simple actions including padding the VRMs only postponed power limit throttling, both in benchmark stress tests and heavier games. And that more effort is needed to get rid of PL throttling.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ures-benchmarks-xps-15-9560-kaby-lake.802345/

 

Seems amazing that a simple repaste would solve all throttling problems considering much bigger gaming laptops than this still throttles even after a repaste under heavy load. Have you used something like Prime95 to verify this?

BTW, wouldn't gaming be simultaneous CPU and GPU stress?

 

Yes, that's my initial reaction as well, seems like there might be a Nobel Price on its way to republicofsam soon

 

Of course -200 is way too much because at lowest FID it drop voltage bellow 0.5V which is too low to keep processor's transistors work as intended ...
If you look at mine posts - I already explained how to make proper stability tests. And mentioned tests under lowest and highest FID.

Btw: you still can use -200mV undervolt if you disable speed-step and stick at higher FID/VID

PS: Also take into account that electrical resistance depends on temperature, as result there are difference between steady low FID (no load for a while) and low FID after drop from full throttle(processor still very hot and its electrical resistance differs... not much but enough to make it unstable)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistivity_and_conductivity#Temperature_dependence

 

So is the consensus that I'm ****ed unless I do that super intense fix by iunlock?

 

typical apple.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

 

Considering everyone else who tried it (possibly bar one) have found eventually it heats the case up until it no longer cools I personally wouldn't try that again..

If I had a pound every time I said that I would have at least a tenner.

 

I don't recall anyone proposing sth simpler with convincing evidence of success, although it doesn't necessarily mean there is no easier solution.
His mod probably wasn't repeated by many.

 

Sorry to be the one to tell you but the XPS15 is no gaming laptop. Yes, you can game on it but still.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

Ahh damn. The only laptop that's reasonably powerful, doesn't cost as much as a MacBook Pro, and doesn't look like it was ripped out of an alien spaceship lol

 

Eason will tell you the crapbook pro throttles far worst than this

 

Yeah, performance in games was pathetic

 

I guess I'm out of the loop as I thought you had an aero 15...

My intent for the xps is to have a laptop that's professional enough for work yet I could pump out games, even demanding ones in 1080p rock bottom graphic settings. Seems this just won't allow for that even with a cooling pad and the basic mods. Such a bummer. Anybody here planning on grabbing a ux550?

 

Why call it crapbook? It's quality (including the QC) is miles better than the XPS.

 

It's crap because it costs 50% more, still has a lot of issues & throttles far worst than the XPS in games.

 

What kind of issues? The QC is miles better than the XPS.

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/xps-15-9560-owners-thread.800611/page-257#post-10551838

 

I did have an aero I missed the XPS's build and design. My xps 9560 has been fine gaming (prey, medium settings) at 60 fps without any throttling so far. I only have only repasted and undervolted because I am currently traveling and don't carry thermal pads

overwatch was the game that kept causing issues with FPS unlocked on my previous xps 15s

 

Has anyone tried flashing a lower voltage to the 1050m?

I previously had an MSI laptop with an 870m that ran very hot. This sorted it quite nicely.

Link with info:

https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/guide-for-flashing-bios-of-nvidia-gpu.119955/

 

Sorry to add more clutter, tried searching and didn't find confirmation that this is the case. The latest BIOS has the register in the same place, right? I have the 9560 and want to turn on speedshift but also want to confirm that I won't **** up my brand new machine. I noticed the first post hasn't been updated in a few months so I thought it prudent to check. Thanks BTW for everything you've done, GoNz0, to help us get the most out of our machines that we can

 

Thank everyone who contributed, it's not just me!

Yes the register is in the same place.

 

Ah nice.

How tough is it to refund these things within a month if the performance is not satisfactory? I'm wondering if it's worth grabbing one and if it isn't all sorted in a month then refund it and grab the new zenbook pro ux550 which hopefully will be decent.

 

The 1050 is

I think Dell is pretty easy. Apple is super easy if you're in the US, just take it back to a store within 14 days.