m1530 Heat Questions

I'm aware of the issues that m1530's have regarding with heat, and it seems mine might be having something similar to that nature, but I have a few questions that I'd like to clarify first.

So my temperatures are listed below (range is from idling to under video games stress, current is word + FireFox)



So obviously, the GPU is far too high, yet the CPU is alright. Noted, this only started maybe only a week ago. Strangely though, the fans aren't on at full power at this temperature (using A12, 260.99 driver), and don't really come on to full power until 95 degrees.

Even more strange is that I don't feel the heat when using the laptop. At this idle temperature, you'd expect to feel the laptop body to be scalding, but I can easily rest my hand where the GPU is and only feel a slight warmth even when the GPU is running at 100+ degrees.

Any ideas as to what is going on? Are the sensors messed up? GPU messed up like the rest of the 8600m GTs? Should I apply some thermal paste to the GPU? Undervolt? Copper mod? Help!

TL;DR version: GPU hot. Fans not on all times. Laptop doesn't feel hot. Ideas? Thanks.

 

I wouldn't be using either of my M1530's with the GPU running north of 90 degrees C as it's a surefire way to kill it.

Certainly apply the thermal paste fix and check to make sure the screw on the heat dissipater near the centre of the machine is in place (it's the one that keeps the pressure of the thermal pad onto the NVidia chip).

Also look at undervolting, I got my CPU temps down 10 degrees C average using undervolting even under load.

 

Good call. I opened it up, and it looks like there's a problem with the pressure on the chip. The screw that screws into the motherboard has torn out the washer that it's screwed into, so there's no pressure now on the corner of the GPU chip as the screw and it's hole are now hanging free.

This is the corner that's the furthest away from the fan. It doesn't look like a break, but rather a glue or something that broke. I was thinking to superglue it, but that's probably not a good idea. Does anyone else have any ideas?

 

I wouldn't glue it unless I had no options left as any subsequent issues will make it hard to remove the cooling system.

It's hard to visualise the problem as you described it, the socket/reception hole on the system didn't have any washer that I remember.

I should get a chance this weekend to open up one of my units and I'll try to take some high resolution photo's to see if people can come up with some solutions.

Just as a quick afterthought, did you purchase the machine from Dell yourself? The reason I ask is the instances where I've seen that screw missing before are where the machine has already had a 'cooling repair'.

 

If the machine is out of warranty perhaps you can use a machine screw and use a thin, matching nut (if the hole goes right through the board, I forget) on the other side to secure it.

pinsb - the M1530 doesn't use a thermal pad for the GPU, only the northbridge? at least this was the case on mine, CPU and GPU had direct copper contact.

 

Sorry you're absolutely correct, so long since I opened one that I couldn't remember the layout correctly.

 

Doing some searching, this problem isn't entirely unique. Unfortunately I'm out of warranty. I bought this direct from Dell back in 2008. I guess poor wording on my part, not quite a washer.

I found some pictures as to what the problem is. The first case is the same as mine. The second case is just the opposite screw.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/dell-xps-studio-xps/439908-m1530-gpu-heatsink-screw-hole-melted-off-pics.html

Re: XPS M1530- Third Motherboard; Am I the only one with this problem?? - Laptop General Hardware Forum - Laptop - Dell Community

I appreciate your help guys. Thanks!

 

Yeah I would get that repasted/modded soon. Anything over 60C will start to cause the GPU from disconnected from the motherboard resulting in the black screens/artifacts.

 

The pictures seem to suggest the hole goes right through the motherboard to the other side, which is good for you.

I would definitely use a small nut on the other side of the board (you will probably need a different/longer screw also, but make sure it's only *just* as long as it needs to be). As long as your screw/nut/washers don't contact or short circuit anything else, and still let everything screw together again (clearance wise) you'll be fine.

I would choose this option over glues; given the high temperature in the region I think that a mechanical solution will be best.

 

Alright, I'll try this out and I'll take some pictures too. I might wait until some new thermal paste comes in as I'll probably need to reapply some.